Problem with leaves turning orangey brown? Help needed

D

Digipro

420 Member
I have been having g apples over last few days with one plant where the bottom and lower leaves are turning orange . I have checked ph which was at 7 and flushed it with water as I don't think its a light burn issue I have a fecida cr600 1000w led light with full spectrum white red. Infa-red and uv. None of the other plants which are closer to the light show light burn and its not on the top leaves as shown in the pic its on lower leaves. My medium is soil and compost mix from wilko. All other plants are doing well but this one, and one I had do this before but after flushing it recovered but had really slow growth. I use bio bizz grow and bloom with budwiser amino acids, solar green power silica and shogun p and k and also doff seaweed concentrate with tnc calmag. I have rootbastic but only used that one when germinating seeds . Could this be too much P or K ?

Thanks.

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I water once every 2 to 3 days testing by the finger one inch into the soil. I have flushed it for now with tap water thats been stood over night and going to leave it 2 or 3 days before watering with tap water again. I had this happen on another plant and flushing it seemed to cure the problem but it killed loads of leaves and is growing really slow cause of lack of leaves. I was hoping i could catch this one sooner as I didn't catch the other one in time before it killed most of the lower leaves . Will keep this updated with how the plant reacts .
 
PH of what is 7? What you are putting into it when watering? Measuring ph of runoff doesn't tell you anything in soil, worry about PH of what you put in while watering if anything at all.
 
Digipro said:
I water once every 2 to 3 days testing by the finger one inch into the soil. I have flushed it for now with tap water thats been stood over night and going to leave it 2 or 3 days before watering with tap water again. I had this happen on another plant and flushing it seemed to cure the problem but it killed loads of leaves and is growing really slow cause of lack of leaves. I was hoping i could catch this one sooner as I didn't catch the other one in time before it killed most of the lower leaves . Will keep this updated with how the plant reacts .
Click to expand...
Poking your finger 1" into the surface doesn't tell you anything about how wet it is at the bottom of the pot
Picking up the pot, or tilting it to judge weight is far more reliable and you need to let it dry before watering again
Just a punt, but when it is dry and ready for water, you could stand the pot in a plain pH'd weak H2O2 solution for 10 mins to re-oxygenate the lower root zone
I know it sounds counter-intuitive while using Bio, that's why it's important to stand it in water rather than flush it through the soil
Always keep an eye on leaf margins and growing tips, that's where you will see early signs of anything
This problem is at an advanced stage so you have less time to find the remedy
Good luck my friend
 
The soil was a ph of 7 and the water I use is ph 7 I don't ha e a good enough ph meter to ph water as small increment don't measure on the ph meter I have . And yes I ha e waited over an hour after mixing water and its ph is still 7 and yes adding 5 ml of ph down to 6 litres of water should make a massive difference ut the needle on my ph meter does not move. I place the prong into my ph down and it goes way below 3.5 ph and if j put it in ph up it goes way up to the ph of ph up but try and get it to register little ph value changes in the water I try to ph and it does not want to know. Even if I leave the water standing for an hour after mixing it properly. So ti I get a ph meter thats reliable I wo t ph my water as I know it will be wrong no matter what I do with the meter I have. Anyone want to know which meter I have goto wilkos website and look at there green two pronged ph light and water meter . That the one I have and its rubbish don't get one.
 
Thanks Growing i can try that out . I do grow in grow bags and have them lifted of the floor abit so air can get underneath them and water can drain out. I have them on old fridge shelfs that are lifting them about 1 to 2 cm off the floor so air can get alway round the pot and the bottom also . I do feel the bottom of the put as well as if the bottom is dry and the top I know I can water them . So I water every 2 to 3 days with a little run off when I do . Probably 5 to 10% run off . There also in 10 litre pots i have since got hold of some 20 litre pots for my next grow so tha plants will be slightly bigger next time with more soil as a buffer .
 
those probe type soil combo meters are useless - we suggest keeping them by the grill for roasting hotdogs or marshmallows

watering on a schedule will bite you in the ass, the plant does not care about your schedule - you need to learn to read the plant and get on the plants schedule. There is a small hidden lake inside every container of soil, whether grow bag or a hard side container. You keep refilling the lake before the plant can draw it down. A plant that is constantly given water never learns how to search for water. When the soil dries out like dry dry that’s when the plant says oh shit let’s build more roots to find water,

before a plant can ever grow larger above ground - roots must grow underground first to support a bigger plant. You grow the rootballl and the rootball will deliver you a nice harvest… a plant that size should be able to go a week or longer without any water added…

watering too often by not waiting for the soil to dry out all the way to the bottom. What’s really going on is lack of oxygen to the root zone…..

Welcome aboard Digipro
 
Thanks 013 I will take that on board it makes sense. And will wait a little longer till like you say soil is dryer. :)
 
Digipro said:
I place the prong into my ph down and it goes way below 3.5 ph and if j put it in ph up it goes way up to the ph of ph up but try and get it to register little ph value changes in the water I try to ph and it does not want to know. .
Click to expand...

Going direct into undiluted PH Up or PH down will fry any meter be it a $450 one or one of them stick in soil prong ones.

Growing in soil you just have to be close (6.2-6.6 somewhere in the middle of those not either end). So look into the drop type tests or the PH tape, personally I use the PH tape as it is easier and if your nutes dark too hard to tell what color the water is to get it close. I never done Hydro but that is where PH can't be a ballpark range w/o causing you issues faster and where you need a decent way of reading the PH accurately.
 
Kewl deal Digi

lift the pot method…. fill same size container with same soil mix but do not add water. Use the extra container as comparison weight….. lift the pot or use digital scales. The plant weighs nothing the difference will be the water weight. Bag of dry soil should be light as a feather…

another simple trick…. Push a 12 inch long wooden bbq or shish-kabob stick into the soil so pointed end winds uo in the bottom center of the container and let it sit. After one hour, pull out the dipstick out and water mark of the soil will be visible on the stick….

drop a journal and stay a while, peace out - more will jump in!
 
Thanks 013 will try that out and also the stick method seems a good one . I dont know how to upload a journal here will have to get on my computer and have a proper look at the full website and it's features. And thanks for the help its my first grow and hopefully will get a decent yield save me a lot of money growing for nedicla use I have a lot of neuropathic pain from damage to my nerves that lead to my arms so can't move my arms much without a lot of pain and anxiety relief .
 
Digipro said:
Thanks 013 will try that out and also the stick method seems a good one . I dont know how to upload a journal here will have to get on my computer and have a proper look at the full website and it's features. And thanks for the help its my first grow and hopefully will get a decent yield save me a lot of money growing for nedicla use I have a lot of neuropathic pain from damage to my nerves that lead to my arms so can't move my arms much without a lot of pain and anxiety relief .
Click to expand...

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Digipro said:
I have been having g apples over last few days with one plant where the bottom and lower leaves are turning orange . I have checked ph which was at 7 and flushed it with water as I don't think its a light burn issue I have a fecida cr600 1000w led light with full spectrum white red. Infa-red and uv. None of the other plants which are closer to the light show light burn and its not on the top leaves as shown in the pic its on lower leaves. My medium is soil and compost mix from wilko. All other plants are doing well but this one, and one I had do this before but after flushing it recovered but had really slow growth. I use bio bizz grow and bloom with budwiser amino acids, solar green power silica and shogun p and k and also doff seaweed concentrate with tnc calmag. I have rootbastic but only used that one when germinating seeds . Could this be too much P or K ?

Thanks.

20220426_163320.jpg


20220426_163323.jpg
Click to expand...
Good morning @Digipro hope you are well.
Sorry about your issues.
Welcome to 420magazine :welcome:
It looks like the gang is fixing you up, though I haven't read through yet.
But is it possible you had some light burn at some point in your grow?
That would have happened from your 1000w led being too close.
Just a thought.
Here is a good spot to post any new questions.

Frequently Asked Questions

Digest and learn from a wide range of common gardening inquiries and answers - if you have a grow related query, feel free to ask here
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And if you want to meet everyone else and say hi?
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Hope your garden is ok.

Stay safe :cheesygrinsmiley:
Bill
 
Hi Bill284 thanks for your input and its what I originally thought but moving the lamp up and turning it down as its adjustable didn't make no difference . And can't find where to edit my post I should have put in its a Fecida CR600 1000w which is actual 120watt from the wall . They say its equal to a 1000w and its included in the model name I just forgot to put its a 120watt real world socket power. I do also have the CR1200 which is twice the size as in its two cr600 1000w put together and draws 260 cause it has two fans instead of 1. Quick question the lights are on an amazon site . Is it ok to link there to the models as I don't think they have there own website its done through amazon. There ment to be pretty good lights they say the version I have is equal to a 2000w but I think it would be equal to more a 1000w it can do 4x4 veg and 3x3 flower which is what I have it in a 4x3x6.7 tent with a divider and shelf making a 1x3x3 and 1x3x3.6 and the remaining side 3x3x6.7. You have all been helpful and thank you . The 1x3x3.7 has the fecida cr600 1000 was £69 120w and the 3x3.6.7 has the Fecida CR1200 2000 250w was £130 . I will am using the small top right side on the shelf for seedlings under the cr600 1000 ( be careful there is a CR600 400 65w, a CR600 600 80w and a CR600 1000 models it can be a bit confusing lol ) looking at the plant now it seems to be really light green on the top flowers while the lower flowers are really bright orange brown . I think its going to recover but have done all I can for now. I feel I just need to wait it out till the root drys out and can re water with plain tap water.

Thanks all.
 

Digipro said:
Hi Bill284 thanks for your input and its what I originally thought but moving the lamp up and turning it down as its adjustable didn't make no difference . And can't find where to edit my post I should have put in its a Fecida CR600 1000w which is actual 120watt from the wall . They say its equal to a 1000w and its included in the model name I just forgot to put its a 120watt real world socket power. I do also have the CR1200 which is twice the size as in its two cr600 1000w put together and draws 260 cause it has two fans instead of 1. Quick question the lights are on an amazon site . Is it ok to link there to the models as I don't think they have there own website its done through amazon. There ment to be pretty good lights they say the version I have is equal to a 2000w but I think it would be equal to more a 1000w it can do 4x4 veg and 3x3 flower which is what I have it in a 4x3x6.7 tent with a divider and shelf making a 1x3x3 and 1x3x3.6 and the remaining side 3x3x6.7. You have all been helpful and thank you . The 1x3x3.7 has the fecida cr600 1000 was £69 120w and the 3x3.6.7 has the Fecida CR1200 2000 250w was £130 . I will am using the small top right side on the shelf for seedlings under the cr600 1000 ( be careful there is a CR600 400 65w, a CR600 600 80w and a CR600 1000 models it can be a bit confusing lol ) looking at the plant now it seems to be really light green on the top flowers while the lower flowers are really bright orange brown . I think its going to recover but have done all I can for now. I feel I just need to wait it out till the root drys out and can re water with plain tap water.

Thanks all.
Click to expand...
Good morning @Digipro hope everything is good today my friend.
I read back a bit.
Looks like some watering issues?
Every 2-3 days is quite close together.
Here is a thread on watering that will help.
Give that a read.
Your light , non sponsored lights and equipment are fine to show and discuss as a matter of reference for your grow no problem.
We just can't be trying to promote non sponsored equipment.
Got to keep the lights on. :rofl: come on that's funny! Too early hehe.
Rule of thumb is 40 watts per sqft in flower.
So let me try and do some math.;)
3x3 120 w = that's 13.3 watts per / sqft ok .
So 3 of those in a 3x3 will make your 40.
For example I had 3-900w Viparspectra " no longer a sponsor " in a 4x8.
32 sqft / 650w actual draw = 1950 actual watts / 32 sqft = 60 Watts / sqft.
Unfortunately Zon gets a lot of new growers me included.
Bought a 1000w blurple to start many years ago only to realize 100w is for seedlings not flowers.
@Mars Hydro has fantastic prices on excellent quality equipment.
We can contact them directly through 420 and they will give you a further discount on their already low prices.
Cheepos from zon aren't great for flower Unfortunately.
Here is a thought in Canada we have CSA for safety standards on equipment.
Over there you have??
Does that light have a UK safety standards sticker on it ?
Check this thread, my light blew up last summer caught me house on fire.

Fire Safety: How do you prevent a disaster?

Hello everyone. Here is my question. How do you prevent a grow room fire? Do not let this happen to you. For those of you who don't know I had a horrendous fire in my grow room. For those that do know, Thank you for all your love and support. Everyone here has been a godsend of love and...
www.420magazine.com
Make sure you have a smoke detector and fire extinguisher. :Namaste:

Stay safe :cheesygrinsmiley:
Bill
 
Mars Hydro said:
Feel free to ask if you have any questions about the LED grow light :green_heart:
Click to expand...
Oh yeah did I mention their service.
You haven't even had a chance to read the post and they already dropped by to see if you needed help.
Service for your equipment means a lot.
It's a big investment and it's nice to know they stand behind their products.
Happy growing. :ciao:

Stay safe :cheesygrinsmiley:
Bill
 

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