SeymoreNugget's DIY talk - Building lights - Sharing ideas

Ok i got home and everything was at 28,5/32. Now i am 28/30 10cm over the screen and 22/40 on the bottom. I will water the big one amd the problem should be solved for today. Darn. I should really think about CO2 with that temps and that light.

get 62k lux from 60cm/24inches at full power, and 79k at 45cm/18inches.

I am at 44k/50cm/280W right now.

This App really is cool for another reason, it shows you how goog your coverage is and if you have spots were the intensity goes down. I will give this more time later and check my canopy :)
 
SeymoreNugget said:
Jup Samsung S7. Just called Luxmeter.

Hey man o green. So lets say the circuit breaks when 70c is measured. What happens next? Does it start again when its lowering to a point? If yes, in what window these open and close? But i guess since its just a 'closer' you need to open it manually?

But wouldnt do good if youre out of the house for some days and the lights would go on and off every couple of minutes when i think about it. So its just to prevent cob damage and thats it. Maybe add that to the automated fire extinguisher system i saw on youtube a few month back :)

And thanks for your words about your sources and prices. I need to do some digging for the next project.

Those holders are suitable for Cree 3070 too right? I need to check prices for 60 of them
Click to expand...

Seymore and Jimmy:

I verified that my thermal switches are 70°C. The way these work for a NC (normally closed) switch when the heat exceeds the rating the switch opens breaking the circuit. When the switch cools down a specific amount they automatically reset and the circuit is made again. The duty cycle is somewhere between 10000 and 100000 cycles depending on the voltage applied.

I have one installed on each heatsink. They are wired in series with the cobs. Consequently, if a single fan fails and the temp rises high enough the thermal switch will open and all 4 cobs on that circuit will go out; as soon as the offender cools down enough the circuit will be made again and the lights will come back on. This cycle will repeat until the fan is repaired or 10000 plus cycles whichever occurs first.

I am not sure that these would ever be needed because I have a fan running in the top of the tent that may actually cool the heat sink passively. But like Jimmy says we don't want this to go pyro on us when we are not looking.

PS reset temp on mine is 55°C specs. are different for different models this is the model number for mine 131620898384 .
 
Man'O'Green said:
Seymore and Jimmy:

I verified that my thermal switches are 70°C. The way these work for a NC (normally closed) switch when the heat exceeds the rating the switch opens breaking the circuit. When the switch cools down a specific amount they automatically reset and the circuit is made again. The duty cycle is somewhere between 10000 and 100000 cycles depending on the voltage applied.

I have one installed on each heatsink. They are wired in series with the cobs. Consequently, if a single fan fails and the temp rises high enough the thermal switch will open and all 4 cobs on that circuit will go out; as soon as the offender cools down enough the circuit will be made again and the lights will come back on. This cycle will repeat until the fan is repaired or 10000 plus cycles whichever occurs first.
.
Click to expand...

Such a good idea. I didn't know ones that worked passively existed. I found some pretty cheap online. Thanks for the tip!
 
My very first DIY COB fixture

My local electronics store has them for $4.35. I need TIM, 18AWG quick connects and m/f harness at 16AWG to run the driver off board with about 5' of length.
I'll wire it up and test it out on Monday to see how hot it gets but I don't think I'll need the overheat protection. 3 Vero chips on a HLH 185 running at around 75w each probably won't get that hot. I think the LES's are rated for 125°C on the Vero's.



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My very first DIY COB fixture

Right now I'm trying to figure out a 150-200w system on the Vero 10 platform. My T5HO pulls 432w with 8 5000k tubes in it. I wanna see if I can cut that in half and double the lumens per watt. The T5 gets a miserable 16Lm/w.

I'm looking at the
BXRC-65E4001-D-74 Vero 18 at 6500k
mixed with the
BXRC-40E4000-D-73 Vero 18 at 4000k
Both are under $13 per cob and get around 150 Lm/w running 28.3V@2.1A

Thoughts?

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Hey Jimmy. The so called CXB "killer" made it in already. The rest should be here next week sometime.
420-magazine-mobile1625321795.jpg


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My very first DIY COB fixture

I think Mouser is sending me the wrong driver. Lol.
HLG185H-C1050 to run 3 vero29 at 37.7v @2.1A

Pretty sure I asked for the C2100.

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So I was thinking about my design with the Citizens. Looks like I will be able to get at around dollar per watt. But the 600W driver will be running at 450W powering 6 COBs, so the price will be higher. The heatsinks are rated for 150W active. I will have 2 fans running for 3 COBs at minimum. I know those fans wont fail me after 3 years. I got one fan in my PC running for over 4.5 years now. Well I think I'm okay, but the idea of thermal operated switch is an interesting failsafe feature. I want to put fuses there in the case of 2 LEDs giving up simultaneously. Or fans. Make it foolproof with simple fuses.

I want to use steel on the frame, make it from tubes bolted together. That should be very solid frame with decent weight. Plate it with thin bent 1mm aluminium plate bolted on. I need to figure out a good cooling solution with my PC heatsinks. I want to put the 90mm cooling block into 100/125mm aluminium tube and vent it all down on the plants. The fans being in the tubes with some filter. I want the whole construction to have a decent water and dust protection. I also want to see other cooling solutions, but there are few utilizing copper for decent price. I want it to be as light as possible, so no passive for now. I might rework it to passive light and see the pros and cons that come with it. The price and durability is number one for me. I want to make my own solderless bolt it together IKEA style version and sell it in my state for decent money.

The prices of blurple COB lights are through the roof and I can make the very efficient light for half that asked price make it 600W instead of 400W and sell it 20% cheaper. I like that idea. Please remove the intake filter and clean it once a few months for maximum lifespan of your unit. Good call on the thermal compound, that should be long lasting too. There is 5 year warranty on the fans and power source and I can put my own 2 year warranty on the COBs. All I need is prototype. I can also make it with built in far red sleep night and dimmable UVB light. One of my friends works with CPUs that can be used for this. He can write the program.

Then there is the idea of optics/reflectors and if they are beneficial. My guess is that simple cropping blades on the sides should be enough to focus the light otherwise hitting the tent, or let the light hit the tent and venture deeper into the canopy. I want 2 plants in my 4x4 tent so I think 6 COBs an tube will be enough for that :) 9 COBs should be good for fullhouse. Or make it modular 3 or 2 chips unit that can fit all the sizes when more are made. I like that too. I love the ideas here, good thread. :thumb:
 
JimmyJames905 said:
That's the B-73. Thought you were getting the D-73?


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Click to expand...

I do. The "D" will be here Monday. I have both. Plus a Citi 1212 plus an Citi 1825
 
JimmyJames905 said:
I think Mouser is sending me the wrong driver. Lol.
HLG185H-C1050 to run 3 vero29 at 37.7v @2.1A

Pretty sure I asked for the C2100.

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Click to expand...

That driver will work just fine to run them soft. Roughly 38W each
 
Dammit. I needed more than that. That's why I bought the 85w heatsinks. Freaking Mouser. I told the tech I needed the 1400. The lights need to cover a 2x4 area at 18".


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JimmyJames905 said:
Is that 38w with the pot cranked up?


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Click to expand...

Yes, you need the HLG-240H-C2100B
Same one I'm pushing my 3X 5000k's with. They will run at 5 watts on low and up to about 80W pot cranked.

The 1400 wont do it. Not if you want to be able to push more. Get the 240-2100 I mentioned above. That way you can run them as soft or hard as you want.
 
Thought so. Dammit.
I can't even run 6 Vero 18's at 28.3v@2.1 at test current with that.
This is the second time I've had a problem with Mouser with only 3 orders. 75% fail rate. Id switch to Jamieson ut Jamieson charges duty and allied wants an extra $30 per driver.
Stuck with the mouse.


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JimmyJames905 said:
Thought so. Dammit.
I can't even run 6 Vero 18's at 28.3v@2.1 at test current with that.
This is the second time I've had a problem with Mouser with only 3 orders. 75% fail rate. Id switch to Jamieson ut Jamieson charges duty and allied wants an extra $30 per driver.
Stuck with the mouse. Sent from my iPhone using 420 Magazine Mobile App
Click to expand...
Well at the same time you need to remember if you want to run close to a chips specs like @2.1 you need a 2100 driver 2100=2.1.
If you want to be able to run 1.4 amp you need the 1400=1.4. 1050=1.05 amp
 
My very first DIY COB fixture

Ya. I had the 240 on my book but I thought I'd play it safe. I sent Mouser a polite email. They usually have no problem correcting this and last time paid shipping.


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JimmyJames905 said:
Ya. I had the 240 on my book but I thought I'd play it safe. I send Mouser a polite email. They usually have no problem correcting this and last time paid shipping.


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Click to expand...
Just dont get the 240H-1400 or you will be limited to roughly 50W each. Go with the 240h-2100B so you can run 0w-80W
 

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