This just happen within 7 Hours of feeding

critik

critik

New Member
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It looks to have started the worse in the middle and is going up. What could it be? I fed with biothrive grow and I added calimagic CaMg to the gallon of water with the BioThrive. And well this is what happen .
 
Re: This just happen within 7 Hours of feeding. :O

Those plants are much too young for feeding. They should be getting all the nutriants they need from the surrounding soil.
One of the most common mistakes of new growers is overfeeding young marijuana plants. I don't even feed mine at all until the 4th or 5th week of growth. Then I add nutriants slowly, 1/4 or 1/2 strength every 3rd watering.
The next most common problem stems from overwatering. The soil should be DRY befor introducing more water. Lift the pot and if it is light then water.
sorry I could not be of more help
 
Re: This just happen within 7 Hours of feeding. :O

Yea I should not of fed em I thought since I am using organic nutes it would not matter. But Like some one else said the solo cups may be too small for the ammount of nutes i put in there it not being able to spread out more causing it to be stronger then what it really was. Then again i wouldn't know that till I had a PPM meter.
 
do a mini flush, next watering, go ahead and run (3 times as much water as there is soil) through that dixie cup. so let 3 dixie cups of PH'd R.O or PD'd tap water through those cups. just let the water settle through the soil at its own pace. but make sure you let all 3 cups worth of water filter out all the excess nutrients. do this before you have irreversible damage to your seedlings.

I too just made this mistake, along with many other mistake on my pineapple chunk grow. as a result that grow is no longer with us =(
but Im working on some new things so that is no issue, just would like to help you out any way i can as i just experienced this myself.

with those smal dixies, you dont want to feed your plants with any nutrients until you start to see light green leaves. this indicates that the plant has used up all of the available nitrogen in the cups and needs more food. at this stage you should prob transplant anyways, at which point the new soil will have all the nutrients needed for at least another week. then once again, when the plants display light green (new growth) you will need to then, and only then start feeding with nutrients.

this is why i preffer Hydro over soil. you get to start at 0 with your nutrients and go from there. where as soil you have to wait until all the available nutes are gone before you can fertalize. and thats just too much guess work, or waiting for me.

hope you have the best of luck with this.
 
Re: This just happen within 7 Hours of feeding. :O

you need a multi meter!! PH and PPM.. You cant truley grow until you have these. they are essential!!
 
preprodigy said:
do a mini flush, next watering, go ahead and run (3 times as much water as there is soil) through that dixie cup. so let 3 dixie cups of PH'd R.O or PD'd tap water through those cups. just let the water settle through the soil at its own pace. but make sure you let all 3 cups worth of water filter out all the excess nutrients. do this before you have irreversible damage to your seedlings.

I too just made this mistake, along with many other mistake on my pineapple chunk grow. as a result that grow is no longer with us =(
but Im working on some new things so that is no issue, just would like to help you out any way i can as i just experienced this myself.

with those smal dixies, you dont want to feed your plants with any nutrients until you start to see light green leaves. this indicates that the plant has used up all of the available nitrogen in the cups and needs more food. at this stage you should prob transplant anyways, at which point the new soil will have all the nutrients needed for at least another week. then once again, when the plants display light green (new growth) you will need to then, and only then start feeding with nutrients.

this is why i preffer Hydro over soil. you get to start at 0 with your nutrients and go from there. where as soil you have to wait until all the available nutes are gone before you can fertalize. and thats just too much guess work, or waiting for me.

hope you have the best of luck with this.
Click to expand...
But i am using happy frog i thought there was nothing in there at all? I mixed it with worm castings also. plz respond and prep I def need one for sure.
 
Re: This just happen within 7 Hours of feeding. :O

critik said:
Yea I should not of fed em I thought since I am using organic nutes it would not matter. But Like some one else said the solo cups may be too small for the ammount of nutes i put in there it not being able to spread out more causing it to be stronger then what it really was. Then again i wouldn't know that till I had a PPM meter.
Click to expand...


Its very hard to achieve nutrient burn with organic nutrients by the way !

PPM meters don't really work well with organics either due to low conductivity of organic nutrient particules ! (PPM is more for the man made chemical nutrients)


No harm in using a diluted (1/2 strength) organic nutrient feed every other water etc or once a week sort of thing.
 
I would recommend getting some new pots, mix up some new soil, and get those girls into some fresh new pots. Then after the transplant, hit them with a feeding of "compost tea". If you don't know how to make it, follow the link below. This will help jump start your soil microbe populations and really get your plants a healthy start. I wouldn't add any nutrients until week 3 or even longer, just use the tea's for now. This honestly will work wonders for your plants, use just the happy frog soil you have, and the worm casings... you always can add other amendments, but just those 2 ingredients alone will make a pretty decent tea :) After about 3 weeks or possibly longer, start introducing your plants the nutrients, but start slow like mentioned above. That should get you going pretty good :)
 
Re: This just happen within 7 Hours of feeding. :O

Fuzzy Duck said:
Its very hard to achieve nutrient burn with organic nutrients by the way !

PPM meters don't really work well with organics either due to low conductivity of organic nutrient particules ! (PPM is more for the man made chemical nutrients)


No harm in using a diluted (1/2 strength) organic nutrient feed every other water etc or once a week sort of thing.
Click to expand...

Then how did it happen lol? I mean i can tell you i didn't pour the nutrient solution into the pot i injected it torwards the middle of the plant into the soil maybe that is why it got nutrient burn. The necrotic dead patches are now brown and dead. idk even know if it is nutrient burn honestly.


I def need to make some tea tho been thinkin about it for a minute now
 
Re: This just happen within 7 Hours of feeding. :O

critik said:
Then how did it happen lol? I mean i can tell you i didn't pour the nutrient solution into the pot i injected it torwards the middle of the plant into the soil maybe that is why it got nutrient burn. The necrotic dead patches are now brown and dead. idk even know if it is nutrient burn honestly.


I def need to make some tea tho been thinkin about it for a minute now
Click to expand...


Nutrient burn is caused by over feeding of nutrients E.g using more than you should !



I thought it was heat stress coupled with a transpiration issue causing the burn on the leafs intill i read your journal & discovered that you use cfls so that put that idea out of the window.


Have you followed through with a flush yet ?

Checked PH level ?
 
Well I flushed one plant to see if it progresses and the others don't seem to be getting worse but the necrotic spots are brown now. I guess i will follow through and flush the others. As for ph I know it is off I was using tap for the first week and i know my tap is too low around 4.5.. But you know biothrive says it is unnecessary to PH so idk why it would be a ph issue. Pretty much they say biothrive PH itself
 
critik said:
Well I flushed one plant to see if it progresses and the others don't seem to be getting worse but the necrotic spots are brown now. I guess i will follow through and flush the others. As for ph I know it is off I was using tap for the first week and i know my tap is too low around 4.5.. But you know biothrive says it is unnecessary to PH so idk why it would be a ph issue. Pretty much they say biothrive PH itself
Click to expand...

You can't add nutrient solutions/feedings at 4.5PH, way too low. Yes it is true that a "healthy" organic soil will naturally buffer the soil. But this is only if you have a very healthy soil, and the PH of the feeding's isn't way beyond the goal of 6.4PH. A ph of 4.5 can't even supply adiquite microlife.

What I would recommend for future feedings is to check your feeding PH when mixing. If it is too low then get an airpump and airstone and bubble it for a while..checking it every 6-12 hours until the PH range gets closer to your goal of 6.4ph. Don't add PH adjusters or anything like that for organics, just let the microbes in the bubbling water do the work for you.

I really recommend getting those girls into new pots and soil, and hitting them with compost tea...

Make sure you keep your humidity around 50-60% for now, lower than that will cause stress due to the roots not being able to keep up with the leaves water loss.

Also...you say your using tap water...is it city or well water? have you checked the ph and ppm of the water out of your sink, before nutirents? All of these unknowns can lead to unhappy soil in organics. City water has chlorine and chloramines and without carbon filters or at least bubbling it for 24 hours, you are killing off your microlife. If you have well water, usually these systems also have a water softener which is injecting a ton of salts into your water, rendering it pretty harmful to soil microlife. I would first start with a fresh batch of R/o or distilled water, get your compost tea going, and re-pot your plants :)
 
Icemud said:
You can't add nutrient solutions/feedings at 4.5PH, way too low. Yes it is true that a "healthy" organic soil will naturally buffer the soil. But this is only if you have a very healthy soil, and the PH of the feeding's isn't way beyond the goal of 6.4PH. A ph of 4.5 can't even supply adiquite microlife.

What I would recommend for future feedings is to check your feeding PH when mixing. If it is too low then get an airpump and airstone and bubble it for a while..checking it every 6-12 hours until the PH range gets closer to your goal of 6.4ph. Don't add PH adjusters or anything like that for organics, just let the microbes in the bubbling water do the work for you.

I really recommend getting those girls into new pots and soil, and hitting them with compost tea...

Make sure you keep your humidity around 50-60% for now, lower than that will cause stress due to the roots not being able to keep up with the leaves water loss.

Also...you say your using tap water...is it city or well water? have you checked the ph and ppm of the water out of your sink, before nutirents? All of these unknowns can lead to unhappy soil in organics. City water has chlorine and chloramines and without carbon filters or at least bubbling it for 24 hours, you are killing off your microlife. If you have well water, usually these systems also have a water softener which is injecting a ton of salts into your water, rendering it pretty harmful to soil microlife. I would first start with a fresh batch of R/o or distilled water, get your compost tea going, and re-pot your plants :)
Click to expand...

What do you mean by healthy organic soil will naturally buffer it self? I was talking about my nutrient line BioThrive says Phing the nutrient solution isn't necessary. here look • For heavy feeding plants we recommend
doubling BioThrive application rates.
• Diluted nutrients that are not used within 1 hour
need to be aerated. We have found that to
minimize foam from microbial digestion it is best
to use an air source with large bubbles (i.e. not an
air stone) and a submersible pump to circulate.
• Always use unchlorinated water.
• Repeat week 10 in program for
extended flowering.
• Adjusting nutrient pH is not nessessary.

this is on the feeding chart. I don't know why exactly it doesn't need to but this is what a GH person said. "Are you growing in soil, or hydro? In a healthy soil, the pH is being regulated by the plant in the root zone. Don’t worry about manipulating the pH and do not use chemical pH Up or Down products with your General Organics solution. Let us know how your garden is doing!"

So I need a good answer as to why i can not ph my Biothrive solution and what do they mean by if the solution is not used within 1 hour need to be aerated.


Also can I not use Ph up and down with Organic Nutrients?
 
You don't want to use PH adjuster's with organics, that is correct my friend :) Salt based additives are not healthy for the microlife, and ph adjusters are just that..just bubble it till it's within range, you will be much better off that way :)

What they mean by aeration is the same as I suggested. Putting your nutrients in water, that has a fishtank style airpump injecting small bubbles into the water with an airstone. The reason that you don't want to let your mixes go longer than 1 hour without bubble is because the microbes/bacteria use up the available oxygen and the mix becomes anerobic which is bad for your plants. By supplying small bubbles to the mixture, you are allowing them microbes to "breathe" and do what they do by starting to multiply and break down organic materials. This is why bubbling will slowly increase your water ph, because of the conversion of un-usable nutrients, to available ones.

To learn about how soil works...start looking into CEC or anion/cation exchange and this will start helping you to understand how organics work :) Its all about keeping your soil happy and forgetting about the plant so much, because with organics, a happy effecient soil creates beautiful happy plants :)

Also, about your tap water being around 4.5ph, you may want to calibrate your PH meter...I've never heard of tap water being that low...usually most city waters sit between 7.5-8.5ph.. same with most bottled water's I have purchased, unless allowed to sit out (distilled and R/o water's will absorb gas from the air and the ph will lower. It's possible that your meter is right... I ran into big PH issues on my 1st grow because of an un calibrated meter... :)

Hope this helps buddy..
 
Icemud said:
You don't want to use PH adjuster's with organics, that is correct my friend :) Salt based additives are not healthy for the microlife, and ph adjusters are just that..just bubble it till it's within range, you will be much better off that way :)

What they mean by aeration is the same as I suggested. Putting your nutrients in water, that has a fishtank style airpump injecting small bubbles into the water with an airstone. The reason that you don't want to let your mixes go longer than 1 hour without bubble is because the microbes/bacteria use up the available oxygen and the mix becomes anerobic which is bad for your plants. By supplying small bubbles to the mixture, you are allowing them microbes to "breathe" and do what they do by starting to multiply and break down organic materials. This is why bubbling will slowly increase your water ph, because of the conversion of un-usable nutrients, to available ones.

To learn about how soil works...start looking into CEC or anion/cation exchange and this will start helping you to understand how organics work :) Its all about keeping your soil happy and forgetting about the plant so much, because with organics, a happy effecient soil creates beautiful happy plants :)

Also, about your tap water being around 4.5ph, you may want to calibrate your PH meter...I've never heard of tap water being that low...usually most city waters sit between 7.5-8.5ph.. same with most bottled water's I have purchased, unless allowed to sit out (distilled and R/o water's will absorb gas from the air and the ph will lower. It's possible that your meter is right... I ran into big PH issues on my 1st grow because of an un calibrated meter... :)

Hope this helps buddy..
Click to expand...
Awesome Thnx for all this info. You know so much. Ok Yea I think this meter was messed up my tap is more in the blue color 7.8 around there. See from the beginning I should of never used tap I think from there it started some problems So I am going to go on with a flush and transplant. And try and do this tea thing if possible I am on a budget atm but will not be soon. But You think I should add some dolomite lime? I mean how would it help me is it really necessary? The mix I have with worm castings and happy frog isn't all that bad right? For a beginner I suppose.

So should I leave my nutrient solution in the Gallon jug the Distilled water came in with the bubbler feeded through the top whole or does it need to be sealed like how should I go about doing all that? And when I need to use it I just remove the bubbler and feed right? I didn't know bubbling would raise ph and Also didn't know I needed it to keep my solution fresh I should say.

From the beginning I underestimated the Biothrive I guess my plants being 2 weeks old just wasn't old enough for a heavy feeding. And I think I even used the light feeding directions which was 2 table spoon per gallon.
 

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