Top leave tips are green

meejay

Well-Known Member
Hello everyone,
Royal Jack Auto on 5th week. Top new leaves was thin and now their tips turned yellow. What would be the reason for this?
MarsHydro TS600 30 cm above the top leaves. As you can see below new leave tips are not yellow.

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Usually yellow tips and the ends of leaf curving like that means bit high on nutrients, unless a PH issue that causing lockouts. Can keep feeding the same or lessen slightly what you feeding as it not extreme, I just wouldn't increase the strength of feeding. See what anyone else chimes in with, as I been out of it last couple years (in more ways than one :rofl: :peace: )
 
new leaves take a bit to green in. it might be just starting flower and asking for a little more. would have to know more about your feed schedule etc. if you haven't been running a little calmag under the led i would start now.
 
new leaves take a bit to green in. it might be just starting flower and asking for a little more. would have to know more about your feed schedule etc. if you haven't been running a little calmag under the led i would start now.
Hi bluter,
I have been feeding them 3-4 days (last one was a bit early in 2 days). I have heard that auots don't need much fertilizer so I have been using half the recommended amount. Maybe I need to make it a quarter of the recommended.
On the other hand, this is a live soil. Haven't checked the composition but from my experience in the ground water composition (processing and using them in power plant processes) of the region, Ca or Mg defficiency is most probably out of question here. What do you think?
 
Usually yellow tips and the ends of leaf curving like that means bit high on nutrients, unless a PH issue that causing lockouts. Can keep feeding the same or lessen slightly what you feeding as it not extreme, I just wouldn't increase the strength of feeding. See what anyone else chimes in with, as I been out of it last couple years (in more ways than one :rofl: :peace: )
Hi Dwight,
pH is around 6,2-6,3. I haven't checked the soil pH to be honest since I know the soil here is quite salty. I was feeding hald the nutrients recommended by the manucafturere maybe I need to make ithalf of that.
 
Hi Dwight,
pH is around 6,2-6,3. I haven't checked the soil pH to be honest since I know the soil here is quite salty. I was feeding hald the nutrients recommended by the manucafturere maybe I need to make ithalf of that.
It should be fine feeding what you were or just slightly less, if gets worse then cut back but personally I think it fine for now with what you were doing, new folks tend to over think it and change too many things at same time which can be worse than leaving things alone.
 
Royal Jack Auto on 5th week.
An auto-flower at 5 weeks is often starting to flower. I can not tell for sure but it does look like new pistils/stigma showing on some of the growing tips.

Top new leaves was thin and now their tips turned yellow. What would be the reason for this?
If the tips of the fingers on the leaf turns yellow then the next step is to watch to see if more of each finger starts to turn yellow. If the yellow does not spread and the tip then turns brown there is a good chance that the cause is a bit too much fertilizer.

But, if the yellow spreads and more of each finger turns a shade of yellow then there is a good chance that feeding at half the recommended dose is not enough and the plant is hungry.

pH is around 6,2-6,3. I haven't checked the soil pH to be honest since I know the soil here is quite salty.
Why is the soil salty? No one asked yet but what is the soil that you are using? In the bottom photo of your first message the pots look like they are filled with something like finely shredded coco coir or peat moss or a mix of the two.

The pH of the water being used is much more important. If you are mixing the fertilizers into the water than test the pH after mixing and before pouring. Do not worry about the 'soil' pH until you can let us know what the 'soil' is.

I was feeding hald the nutrients recommended by the manucafturere maybe I need to make ithalf of that.
If the plant is starting to flower then you should keep the dose going and not drop it even more. You might even have to increase the amount since the plant needs everything it can get to support all the new flower growth.

I am pretty sure that if you can tell us what the 'soil' is the group will be able to zero in on the problem in no time.
 
Hi bluter,
I have been feeding them 3-4 days (last one was a bit early in 2 days). I have heard that auots don't need much fertilizer so I have been using half the recommended amount. Maybe I need to make it a quarter of the recommended.

you're on the cusp of starving them as it is. they are still ok but you are right at the edge.


On the other hand, this is a live soil.

what's the media ? will make a massive difference in how you proceed. live organic soils are normally a water only grow in 20gal buckets or larger.


Haven't checked the composition but from my experience in the ground water composition (processing and using them in power plant processes) of the region, Ca or Mg defficiency is most probably out of question here. What do you think?


are you on tap ? if you are under led you will probably have to supplement in flower. it may be all you need here to get them stable. i wouldn't run a full dose. maybe 1/4 strength.



Hi Dwight,
pH is around 6,2-6,3. I haven't checked the soil pH to be honest since I know the soil here is quite salty.

so you are ph'ing to that point and feeding under soil rules ? again it would help to know what the media is.


I was feeding hald the nutrients recommended by the manucafturere maybe I need to make ithalf of that.


if anything you should consider bumping it up soon.
 
what's the media ? will make a massive difference in how you proceed. live organic soils are normally a water only grow in 20gal buckets or larger.
It is a live soil. I live in a country as an expat in mid-Asia so don't expect anything specific as you know.


are you on tap ? if you are under led you will probably have to supplement in flower. it may be all you need here to get them stable. i wouldn't run a full dose. maybe 1/4 strength.
I am mixing tap and RO water to have a water with EC around 700 uS/cm. 1/4 makes sense to me, too.
 
An auto-flower at 5 weeks is often starting to flower. I can not tell for sure but it does look like new pistils/stigma showing on some of the growing tips.
You are right new pistils/stigma showing on top growing tips.

If the tips of the fingers on the leaf turns yellow then the next step is to watch to see if more of each finger starts to turn yellow. If the yellow does not spread and the tip then turns brown there is a good chance that the cause is a bit too much fertilizer.
But, if the yellow spreads and more of each finger turns a shade of yellow then there is a good chance that feeding at half the recommended dose is not enough and the plant is hungry.
Sound and solid recommendations. Will monitor closely and act accordingly.

Why is the soil salty? No one asked yet but what is the soil that you are using? In the bottom photo of your first message the pots look like they are filled with something like finely shredded coco coir or peat moss or a mix of the two.

The pH of the water being used is much more important. If you are mixing the fertilizers into the water than test the pH after mixing and before pouring. Do not worry about the 'soil' pH until you can let us know what the 'soil' is.
The land was originally desert but turned into agricultural land via canals and large water piping during Soviet Union times. You can see the white coating on top of the soil after a rain. This is a fact but the soil I am using does not seem to be that salty. I just wanted to mention if this was a cause.

pH given is the pH after adding everything. Since watering pH is exact, then I don't need to worry about soil pH.

If the plant is starting to flower then you should keep the dose going and not drop it even more. You might even have to increase the amount since the plant needs everything it can get to support all the new flower growth.

I am pretty sure that if you can tell us what the 'soil' is the group will be able to zero in on the problem in no time.
I will monitor her and increase the nutes if necessary.
 
It is a live soil. I live in a country as an expat in mid-Asia so don't expect anything specific as you know.

so this is water only with no nutes added ? i'm guessing you'll need to supplement to make finish.

I am mixing tap and RO water to have a water with EC around 700 uS/cm. 1/4 makes sense to me, too.


if you have an RO filter just run RO. if it's a water only grow it won't matter if you use RO or not.
 
I have the feeling that we need to know more about the soil in order to rule it out.

Was this live soil something you bought or something you mixed together yourself? Most of the living soils I have seen in photographs look darker, more like compost, and not the lighter brown color.
It might be nothing you have experience with. This is a soil I was able to find which was a bag of someone elses garden soil I presume.
 
so this is water only with no nutes added ? i'm guessing you'll need to supplement to make finish.




if you have an RO filter just run RO. if it's a water only grow it won't matter if you use RO or not.
My bad. Didn't give everything relted to the grow. I use Biobizz as supplement. I have Bio-grow, bio-bloom and top-max. I use them once a week. The other watering goes plain.
 
It might be nothing you have experience with. This is a soil I was able to find which was a bag of someone elses garden soil I presume.
I have spotted that new top leaves have the same yellow tips. So I have increased the nute dosing.

RJAD37.jpg
The medium that the plant is growing in does not look like a soil mix that is made from compost and/or worm castings. It really does look like something that is finely shredded coco coir and/or peat moss. It does not look like something that would be soil from an outdoor garden bed.
 
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