Yellow leaves!

[Emeraldo]

@empath I agree with @cbdhemp808 that your soil pH level with a mostly peat growing medium could be way too low. Certainly from the looks of those plants that would be likely. If you can get your hands on a pH meter, it might help. There are products like pH Up and pH Down that might help. I like to mix my own soil so that my plants grow in an environment of pH 6.3. If soil pH is too low I add some dolomite lime and let is rest for a couple of months and that brings it back up to the right level. I don't think you have time to wait that long, so maybe pH Up would be the way to go. But long term they need some food. Good luck!

 

[cbdhemp808]

Hi there and thanks for ur input ! I believe u are correct .
Does that means fish fertiliser is a good option to use it ? And if so am I supposed to use it with every watering ?

What matters is the chemical composition of the liquid fertilizer. The reason I mention Fox Farm liquid nutrients is because I'm fairly confident they will give your plants the NPK and all the micro-nutrients your plants need. I actually don't use FF products myself – I make my own custom soil mix (see the link in my signature).

Are you able to get FF Grow Big and Tiger Bloom where you are?

Do I still need to maintain water ph between 6 and 7 ?

The pH of your growing medium needs to be adjusted, and whatever water you are using also needs to be in the right pH range.

What kind of water are you using? Tap water? Filtered water?

 

[empath]

What matters is the chemical composition of the liquid fertilizer. The reason I mention Fox Farm liquid nutrients is because I'm fairly confident they will give your plants the NPK and all the micro-nutrients your plants need. I actually don't use FF products myself – I make my own custom soil mix (see the link in my signature).

Are you able to get FF Grow Big and Tiger Bloom where you are?

The pH of your growing medium needs to be adjusted, and whatever water you are using also needs to be in the right pH range.

What kind of water are you using? Tap water? Filtered water?

Thanks for the tips !
I'm using 7.7 ph drinking water bottles heres the pictures of the fish fertiliser. Again I need to know if I should include it in every watering

Thanns

 

[empath]

And this is the all purpose plant food that I posted about earlier
Shall I use the fish fertiliser or this one ? And how often ? Thanks

 

[Emeraldo]

@empath sorry to keep butting in!

"Fishfert" label: 2-4-0.2. This may be a good supplement, but inadequate as a full nutrient.

All-Purpose Fertilizer label: 16-10-24. This is more balanced and has better K than fishfert. In fact it has micronutrients as well. Is the 16-10-24 fertilizer in liquid or in granule format? Have you top dressed with this already? You need to figure out the amount and frequency. I would start with a small amount and see how they react.

By the way, your water pH of 7.7 is probably way too high, but with your peat/soil mix having a low pH (peat = pH 4.5), it may just balance out. I would recommend that you lower the water pH or find a bottled water with a pH of 6.0 - 7.0.

 

[cbdhemp808]

Best to use a liquid fertilizer.

Let's see if you can use your fish fertilizer, by way of comparison...

Here's the composition of Fox Farm Grow Big liquid fert:

Here's your fish fert:

Converting ppm to percent:
Iron .0026%, Manganese .003%, Copper .001%, Zinc .0013%, Molybdenum .001%.

Compared to FF Grow Big, your fish fert is low on: N, K, Mg, B, Cu, Fe, Mn, Zn, Mo.

Here's the feeding schedule for FF Grow Big:

So, let's say 2 tsp of Grow Big per gallon water, every other watering.

To meet the same amount of N with the fish fert, that would be 3 x 2 tsp = 6 tsp = 2 tbsp.

So, at a rate of 2 tbsp per gallon of fish fert, that would give you:

N - 6%	Fe - 0.0078%
P - 12%	Mn - 0.009%
K - 0.6%	Cu - 0.003%
Ca - 1.8%	Zn - 0.0039%
S - 0.3%	Mo - 0.003%
Mg - 0.27%

At that rate, you are still very low on K, low on Mg, and very low on Fe, Mn, Cu, Zn.

Here's your Magic Seaweed...

Let's say 1ml/liter. There's 3.8 liters per gallon, so that would be 1 x 3.8 = 3.8 ml per gallon = 0.8 tsp per gallon.
Let's round that up to 1 tsp per gallon.

The seaweed liquid would add more iron and other minerals... unfortunately, we don't know how much.

You could give it a try, and see how the plants do...

2 tbsp fish fert + 1 tsp magic seaweed, per gallon of water, every other watering.

 

[empath]

@empath sorry to keep butting in!

"Fishfert" label: 2-4-0.2. This may be a good supplement, but inadequate as a full nutrient.

All-Purpose Fertilizer label: 16-10-24. This is more balanced and has better K than fishfert. In fact it has micronutrients as well. Is the 16-10-24 fertilizer in liquid or in granule format? Have you top dressed with this already? You need to figure out the amount and frequency. I would start with a small amount and see how they react.

Hey ! Please keep on butting! hehe
Its in a powder/wet form.
I did use it once and thats it I feel it gave them boost but still not so sure cuz the ph was 5.5ph after the mixture.. so I made some calls today and I finally found ph up down solution that I'm going to fetch ! Thanks another!

 

[empath]

Best to use a liquid fertilizer.

Let's see if you can use your fish fertilizer, by way of comparison...

Here's the composition of Fox Farm Grow Big liquid fert:

Here's your fish fert:

Converting ppm to percent:
Iron .0026%, Manganese .003%, Copper .001%, Zinc .0013%, Molybdenum .001%.

Compared to FF Grow Big, your fish fert is low on: N, K, Mg, B, Cu, Fe, Mn, Zn, Mo.

Here's the feeding schedule for FF Grow Big:

So, let's say 2 tsp of Grow Big per gallon water, every other watering.

To meet the same amount of N with the fish fert, that would be 3 x 2 tsp = 6 tsp = 2 tbsp.

So, at a rate of 2 tbsp per gallon of fish fert, that would give you:

N - 6%	Fe - 0.0078%
P - 12%	Mn - 0.009%
K - 0.6%	Cu - 0.003%
Ca - 1.8%	Zn - 0.0039%
S - 0.3%	Mo - 0.003%
Mg - 0.27%

At that rate, you are still very low on K, low on Mg, and very low on Fe, Mn, Cu, Zn.

Here's your Magic Seaweed...

Let's say 1ml/liter. There's 3.8 liters per gallon, so that would be 1 x 3.8 = 3.8 ml per gallon = 0.8 tsp per gallon.
Let's round that up to 1 tsp per gallon.

The seaweed liquid would add more iron and other minerals... unfortunately, we don't know how much.

You could give it a try, and see how the plants do...

2 tbsp fish fert + 1 tsp magic seaweed, per gallon of water, every other watering.

Wood thank you so much for ur math lesson !!
What do u think of the orange box fert is it sufficient on its on ? Lemme know what do u think ..

Thank you guys

 

[cbdhemp808]

What do u think of the orange box fert is it sufficient on its on ? Lemme know what do u think ..

I like your fish and seaweed fertilizers, because they are natural. The boxed one is straight chemicals.

It's up to you, but I would choose the natural ones, and I think this feeding schedule may work for you...

2 tbsp fish fert + 1 tsp magic seaweed, per gallon of water, every other watering.

 

[Emeraldo]

Ok, @empath and @cbdhemp808 that may solve your feed issue. You still have a soil pH that is too low and apparently a water pH that is too high. I've not used pH Up so can't offer any tips there. Good luck with that!

 

[cbdhemp808]

I like your fish and seaweed fertilizers, because they are natural. The boxed one is straight chemicals.

It's up to you, but I would choose the natural ones, and I think this feeding schedule may work for you...

2 tbsp fish fert + 1 tsp magic seaweed, per gallon of water, every other watering.

Because you are growing in peat moss, you may need to increase the frequency. Every other watering may not be enough. You'll need to experiment and see how the plants do.

Ok, @empath and @cbdhemp808 that may solve your feed issue. You still have a soil pH that is too low and apparently a water pH that is too high. I've not used pH Up so can't offer any tips there. Good luck with that!

I'm guessing the pH of the water will help raise the pH of the grow medium. It would be good to also determine the pH of the fertilizers when added to the water.

 

[Emeraldo]

Hey ! Please keep on butting! hehe
Its in a powder/wet form.
I did use it once and thats it I feel it gave them boost but still not so sure cuz the ph was 5.5ph after the mixture.. so I made some calls today and I finally found ph up down solution that I'm going to fetch ! Thanks another!

The plants will react sooner with a liquid added to your water. I am not sure the Fish Fert + seaweed with give them everything they need, so I would suggest you give them that and start with a top dressing of the 16-10-24 stuff.

If you wish to sprinkle 1 or 2 tbsp of the powder around the top soil around the plant and work it into the soil with a tool of some kind, then sprinkle a little water over it so it will break down. Then, about 30 min later, water again to take some of that food down to the roots.

You can also feed your plants via a foliar spray. Via foliar, magnesium and/or calcium can be applied by spray bottle to the undersides of the leaves. Effect is almost immediate. Nitrogen (N) can be applied by foliar, so I would suggest you try that with a diluted formula. You may wish to buy a liquid fertilizer that says on the label can be applied as foliar.

 

[Gee64]

Hi @empath. Welcome to 420. Before you start taking any of the above advice you need to decide upon a route.

Organic or synthetic.

Pouring synthetics into an organic environment destroys the microbiome and now you must rely on synthetics to finish.

I would give a dose of calmag immediately to condition the soil, then I would start watering with 1.5ml cold hydrolysed fish fertilizer per litre of dechlorinated water every watering for at least 3 waterings. Its a great foliar too.

Water with water 1st to pre-moisten the soil and then slowly water in a couple litres per pot of fish ferts.

I would also make a myco drench as per the myco's instructions and get that in ASAP, then I would get some earth worm castings about 3/4" deep across the whole pot, and then make a compost tea, not too strong, with some ewc as the starter in it and go a bit heavy on the molasses in it. 50% heavier than what your recipe calls for. Your micromes/fungii need its carbon badly.

It looks to me that you have already put synthetics in and crashed the biosphere at the roots, killing or making go dormant all your microbes/fungii.

You can't really add to the pot now, other than top dressing so teas will have to feed them.

Also peat moss isn't good if you want to recycle your soil, a coco coir base is a better carbon for that. Peat will plummet the ph after recycling.

You're plants are really hungry.

Is the soil fluffy and light up top when its dry or is it crusty? If it dries and is a bit crusty you need a dose of CalMag 1st. Calmag feeds the plant but what it really does in organics is condition the soil so the plant can feed itself.

I wouldn't cull those, I would try to save them. The knowledge of saving these will save all your future grows.

Mostly pick a side, synthetic or organic, then never mix them. Period. No exceptions, unless you want to chase your tail.

The cheapest route in organics is good supersoil of some kind. Don't cheap out there. 5 or 10 extra bucks to buy a complete soil will save you a lot during the grow.

Once you pick a team then worry about ph'ing things.

In organics, ph is irrellevant, as the biosphere controls it.

In synthetics ph and following mixing instructions are vital.

A shot of calmag, then Fish ferts, ewc, and teas will get you back on track.

Not all at once but calmag and ewc immediately, then start the fish ferts every watering for awhile.

Start brewing a good tea, there are lots of recipes online.

Foxfarms bigbloom is good organic stuff.

Its just ewc and bat guano in a really good ratio.

Ewc has a high level of bio-available calcium in it so topdressing it keeps calcium levels optimal, then everything else works correctly.

Without proper calcium nothing else works correctly. Thats why you always put calcium into a liquid mix 1st, it electrically sets the stage for the other nutrients to work properly. Its the same in the soil.

Calmag 1st, ewc on top, then in a day or 2 start the fish ferts. Get the tea brewing. Get some myco rinsed into the rootball. Then wait a few days and watch. Don't mix any of this strong, go for medium feeding at most, you will need to slowly ramp these plants up.

Then help them out, raise RH to 60-65% and raise the light a bit to allow them to relax and recover, then speed them back up in a week or so if they look better.

Or go synthetics.

 

[Phytoplankton]

Synthetic nutes won't hurt an organic grow and have little or no effect on bacteria. The plant doesn't know the difference between organically derived nutes and synthetically derived nutes, they are the same! If you don't have the right building blocks for organic already in the soil and "cooked", you'll have issues. Don't get me wrong, organic is a great way to go, but in your case, at the stage you're in, go synthetic. The synthetic nutes are available as soon as you mix them with water, and your plants need nutes now! In the future, you could build a great organic soil, but right now you don't have time to try and build an organic soil in your current grow. Get your PH under control, add the nutes, and they should bounce back.

 

[empath]

Hi @empath. Welcome to 420. Before you start taking any of the above advice you need to decide upon a route.

Organic or synthetic.

Pouring synthetics into an organic environment destroys the microbiome and now you must rely on synthetics to finish.

I would give a dose of calmag immediately to condition the soil, then I would start watering with 1.5ml cold hydrolysed fish fertilizer per litre of dechlorinated water every watering for at least 3 waterings. Its a great foliar too.

Water with water 1st to pre-moisten the soil and then slowly water in a couple litres per pot of fish ferts.

I would also make a myco drench as per the myco's instructions and get that in ASAP, then I would get some earth worm castings about 3/4" deep across the whole pot, and then make a compost tea, not too strong, with some ewc as the starter in it and go a bit heavy on the molasses in it. 50% heavier than what your recipe calls for. Your micromes/fungii need its carbon badly.

It looks to me that you have already put synthetics in and crashed the biosphere at the roots, killing or making go dormant all your microbes/fungii.

You can't really add to the pot now, other than top dressing so teas will have to feed them.

Also peat moss isn't good if you want to recycle your soil, a coco coir base is a better carbon for that. Peat will plummet the ph after recycling.

You're plants are really hungry.

Is the soil fluffy and light up top when its dry or is it crusty? If it dries and is a bit crusty you need a dose of CalMag 1st. Calmag feeds the plant but what it really does in organics is condition the soil so the plant can feed itself.

I wouldn't cull those, I would try to save them. The knowledge of saving these will save all your future grows.

Mostly pick a side, synthetic or organic, then never mix them. Period. No exceptions, unless you want to chase your tail.

The cheapest route in organics is good supersoil of some kind. Don't cheap out there. 5 or 10 extra bucks to buy a complete soil will save you a lot during the grow.

Once you pick a team then worry about ph'ing things.

In organics, ph is irrellevant, as the biosphere controls it.

In synthetics ph and following mixing instructions are vital.

A shot of calmag, then Fish ferts, ewc, and teas will get you back on track.

Not all at once but calmag and ewc immediately, then start the fish ferts every watering for awhile.

Start brewing a good tea, there are lots of recipes online.

Foxfarms bigbloom is good organic stuff.

Its just ewc and bat guano in a really good ratio.

Ewc has a high level of bio-available calcium in it so topdressing it keeps calcium levels optimal, then everything else works correctly.

Without proper calcium nothing else works correctly. Thats why you always put calcium into a liquid mix 1st, it electrically sets the stage for the other nutrients to work properly. Its the same in the soil.

Calmag 1st, ewc on top, then in a day or 2 start the fish ferts. Get the tea brewing. Get some myco rinsed into the rootball. Then wait a few days and watch. Don't mix any of this strong, go for medium feeding at most, you will need to slowly ramp these plants up.

Then help them out, raise RH to 60-65% and raise the light a bit to allow them to relax and recover, then speed them back up in a week or so if they look better.

Or go synthetics.

Thank you so much for ur help !
I'm bookmarking everything down for next grow but for the mean time I'll focus on the nutrient resources that I can find around here and will definitely order the things u mentioned on the next grow.. so since I don't have the resources for the ladies at the moment ill try the fish seaweed mix if that didn't work out ill go with the orange box.. ill see what other ferts avalible elsewhere and I'll keep u posted yall ! Good news i just picked my oh up solution!


Endless blessings

 

[empath]

Synthetic nutes won't hurt an organic grow and have little or no effect on bacteria. The plant doesn't know the difference between organically derived nutes and synthetically derived nutes, they are the same! If you don't have the right building blocks for organic already in the soil and "cooked", you'll have issues. Don't get me wrong, organic is a great way to go, but in your case, at the stage you're in, go synthetic. The synthetic nutes are available as soon as you mix them with water, and your plants need nutes now! In the future, you could build a great organic soil, but right now you don't have time to try and build an organic soil in your current grow. Get your PH under control, add the nutes, and they should bounce back.

That was very helpful thanks for ur clarification.. I forgot to mention I do have3 different seasame street nutes for the flowering stage im sure they become handy in my current dilemma

 

[empath]

Hi @empath. Welcome to 420. Before you start taking any of the above advice you need to decide upon a route.

Organic or synthetic.

Pouring synthetics into an organic environment destroys the microbiome and now you must rely on synthetics to finish.

I would give a dose of calmag immediately to condition the soil, then I would start watering with 1.5ml cold hydrolysed fish fertilizer per litre of dechlorinated water every watering for at least 3 waterings. Its a great foliar too.

Water with water 1st to pre-moisten the soil and then slowly water in a couple litres per pot of fish ferts.

I would also make a myco drench as per the myco's instructions and get that in ASAP, then I would get some earth worm castings about 3/4" deep across the whole pot, and then make a compost tea, not too strong, with some ewc as the starter in it and go a bit heavy on the molasses in it. 50% heavier than what your recipe calls for. Your micromes/fungii need its carbon badly.

It looks to me that you have already put synthetics in and crashed the biosphere at the roots, killing or making go dormant all your microbes/fungii.

You can't really add to the pot now, other than top dressing so teas will have to feed them.

Also peat moss isn't good if you want to recycle your soil, a coco coir base is a better carbon for that. Peat will plummet the ph after recycling.

You're plants are really hungry.

Is the soil fluffy and light up top when its dry or is it crusty? If it dries and is a bit crusty you need a dose of CalMag 1st. Calmag feeds the plant but what it really does in organics is condition the soil so the plant can feed itself.

I wouldn't cull those, I would try to save them. The knowledge of saving these will save all your future grows.

Mostly pick a side, synthetic or organic, then never mix them. Period. No exceptions, unless you want to chase your tail.

The cheapest route in organics is good supersoil of some kind. Don't cheap out there. 5 or 10 extra bucks to buy a complete soil will save you a lot during the grow.

Once you pick a team then worry about ph'ing things.

In organics, ph is irrellevant, as the biosphere controls it.

In synthetics ph and following mixing instructions are vital.

A shot of calmag, then Fish ferts, ewc, and teas will get you back on track.

Not all at once but calmag and ewc immediately, then start the fish ferts every watering for awhile.

Start brewing a good tea, there are lots of recipes online.

Foxfarms bigbloom is good organic stuff.

Its just ewc and bat guano in a really good ratio.

Ewc has a high level of bio-available calcium in it so topdressing it keeps calcium levels optimal, then everything else works correctly.

Without proper calcium nothing else works correctly. Thats why you always put calcium into a liquid mix 1st, it electrically sets the stage for the other nutrients to work properly. Its the same in the soil.

Calmag 1st, ewc on top, then in a day or 2 start the fish ferts. Get the tea brewing. Get some myco rinsed into the rootball. Then wait a few days and watch. Don't mix any of this strong, go for medium feeding at most, you will need to slowly ramp these plants up.

Then help them out, raise RH to 60-65% and raise the light a bit to allow them to relax and recover, then speed them back up in a week or so if they look better.

Or go synthetics.

Hi again I forgot to mention that the soil surface is very light and super fluffy!

Good news ! After usinf the orange box couple of days ago they already started to look better !

 

[Emeraldo]

Ok, good, if they are starting to look better after using your Orange Box Stuff, hehe, then remember to not over-do it. Patience is key. Maybe wait two weeks before applying again. Or three. You might also read up on finding a well-balanced organic fertilizer you can apply as a foliar spray. I also spray Epsom Salt in plain water to the underside of the leaves (1 tsp per 1.5 L), it contains Magnesium which is the main molecule in chlorophyll and makes the leaves go green overnight. You might try that it will not hurt your plants and it is hard to over-do a foliar Epsom Salt application.

In the meantime, water maybe 2x per week (check top of soil for wetness/dryness) with plain water (at correct pH level, or with some pH Up after you've determined what your soil pH level is -- which we think is low because of the mostly peat moss medium). Every other watering, some of your fish-fert and seaweed will help. But don't water too often, and definitely not every day. Very important: allow time for the plant to respond. Too many anxious growers are their own enemy when it comes to using fertilisers. A little goes a long way, and too much will damage or even kill the plants.

Keep your eye on the new growth, at the tips. If they have a healthy green look, chances are good.

 

[empath]

Ok, good, if they are starting to look better after using your Orange Box Stuff, hehe, then remember to not over-do it. Patience is key. Maybe wait two weeks before applying again. Or three. You might also read up on finding a well-balanced organic fertilizer you can apply as a foliar spray. I also spray Epsom Salt in plain water to the underside of the leaves (1 tsp per 1.5 L), it contains Magnesium which is the main molecule in chlorophyll and makes the leaves go green overnight. You might try that it will not hurt your plants and it is hard to over-do a foliar Epsom Salt application.

In the meantime, water maybe 2x per week (check top of soil for wetness/dryness) with plain water (at correct pH level, or with some pH Up after you've determined what your soil pH level is -- which we think is low because of the mostly peat moss medium). Every other watering, some of your fish-fert and seaweed will help. But don't water too often, and definitely not every day. Very important: allow time for the plant to respond. Too many anxious growers are their own enemy when it comes to using fertilisers. A little goes a long way, and too much will damage or even kill the plants.

Keep your eye on the new growth, at the tips. If they have a healthy green look, chances are good.

Hi again.
There's one more point that I forgot to ask about is it OK to use 330ml of water per pot once a week ? I know I'm supposed to know how much water to be poured based on size etc but I just wanna make sure that I'm not u under water them. So 330 ml once week is sufficient u think ?

Thanks another!

 

[Emeraldo]

Hey @empath so I'll answer your question with a few of my own.

How big are your pots there, how many Liters or gallons of soil for each plant? I don't think 330ml per pot per week would be over-watering. I grow outdoors in summer and have to give way more than that. It depends on the weather.

If 330ml per week is what you've been giving, I would recommend that you continue to give that amount, sprinkling slowly around the plant's perimeter, and giving a good drink at the mainstem. But only water if the top1 inch of soil feels dry to the touch. If you find they are not drying out and are wet to the touch, then wait with watering until it is dry.

Rule of thumb: if you push your index finger into the top soil, say the top 1 inch, and it feels wet, then don't water. If the top 1 inch is dry, then water. Remember, there is water down in the soil that you cannot see or touch, so it's a bit of a guessing-game. So when in doubt, don't water. Cannabis roots need oxygen, and when the soil is continually wet the roots cannot breathe and the plant suffers. Let it dry out in between waterings.

Most important is to keep observing how the plant above ground responds. If you have not watered and the plants go limp and wilt, they are telling you they are in need of water or are under-watered. It's funny, but over-watering can also make the plant go limp. With cannabis generally, it's always best to let the soil dry out a bit. Then, when you water next, they will show their joy and perk up.

A truly great resource on the topic of watering is @Emilya Green's tutorial on watering, which I'd recommend you read.

The Proper Way To Water A Potted Plant

The Proper Way to Water a Potted Plant Also covered: the importance of pH and why we successively up-pot How to Water Over the last several years I have put a lot of study into this, and I feel that I can now define the proper way to water a potted plant. Keep in mind that this discussion...

www.420magazine.com