1080w LED Inferno

GF is a liquid additive that organic.

i mixed the DM into the top of my medium and just watered after that.
OSH has a sale today and tomorrow for 20% off so i would act now.

next grow i am doing coco, i am not a big fan of FFOF.. not too sure how DM will do in coco? but i will find out..lol.. FFOF has food in it so it might burn ur plant maybe?

The DM wasn't on the 20% off list:confused:, thats why I'm going to go back tuesday when register line isn't so long, but all the G.H. in the hydro section is 20% off including all those pricey bacto's in the foil zip lock bags.

Thanx Irish,
J.W.
 
just to keep you guy's posted the DM is beating the OC+ in every way.. to be honest the OC+ seems to be producing laves more then buds? maybe i am just tripping? but either way both DM plants are doing allot better in building buds.

i can decided witch ones better? the red bottle seems to be a little faster/bigger flowers but the purple bottle has more micro nutes and its not too far behind, so that a very good thing in my book..

but if i had to chose one as of right now it would be DM all the way.. maybe the purple bottle because i wouldn't have to add Cal/Mag.. but i think the red bottle might finish with bigger buds from the look of things..
 
just to keep you guy's posted the DM is beating the OC+ in every way.. to be honest the OC+ seems to be producing laves more then buds? maybe i am just tripping? but either way both DM plants are doing allot better in building buds.

i can decided witch ones better? the red bottle seems to be a little faster/bigger flowers but the purple bottle has more micro nutes and its not too far behind, so that a very good thing in my book..

but if i had to chose one as of right now it would be DM all the way.. maybe the purple bottle because i wouldn't have to add Cal/Mag.. but i think the red bottle might finish with bigger buds from the look of things..

Awesome news!
What are your temps these days?
There shouldn't be much difference between the two, except for maybe they behave differently at high temps?

I have no brand loyalty. If DM works better, you can bet I'll be using it. I do like the micro profile on OC+.....

Thanks for doing this!
 
Awesome news!
What are your temps these days?
There shouldn't be much difference between the two, except for maybe they behave differently at high temps?

I have no brand loyalty. If DM works better, you can bet I'll be using it. I do like the micro profile on OC+.....

Thanks for doing this!

well thats the thing.. the temps have been in the 90's, so i am thinking the same thing.. now i just noticed something that should be noted.. i just seen one of my big branches laying on the ground on a OC+ plant.. and the other OC+ plant branch is about to do the same thing.. I know exactly whats going on.. remember a while ago i was telling u i use to flower with a bloom food that was high on N and my plants always fell over? well i am thinking in these temps the OC+ is just dumping out N and its happening again? all the other plants are standing strong.. so maybe this is why the plant is falling behind on flowering? every thing els looks good but that one big branch..

I just dont think OC+ is too good of a choice in high temps.. I know that DM has worked hard to make their stuff better in high temps and not dump everything out.

this test would be allot better once it cools down on the next grow.. but i think i will stick to the DM in the hotter months for sure.. the stems are not broke they just fold over and get soft.. it has happen every time i have too much N.. this sucks bro..

to be honest i dont care what product dose better as long as it works,, to be honest i hope they all do great..lol.. but i am pretty sure the OC is dumping more nutes in these temps.. i will have to see how the other plants react latter on but so far so good..
 
update on the GroTek Carbo-Max.. i like this stuff very very concentrated.. you need like 1/2tsp to feed a 5gal res.. or 1g per gallon.. i paid $9.00 for 100g so u could do 100 gallons for around $9.00.. plus i love that fact that i am not paying $20 something dollars for watered down molasses, now i am paying $9.00 for sugar..lol.. na i dont know what it is? but it should last for a while thats for sure.. hoping this will help the girls in the heat.. but i will be buying this stuff instead of the GH nector.. it will last a long time on the self life because id powder.. seems to dislove very good also..

things that are staying on my self for sure.

Green fuse!!
GroTek Carbo-max
Silica
then maybe Green Fuse- roots

next grow i am going to keep things allot shorter maybe around 20-24" in flower if i can and just focus on the roots mainly and micro life.

going with CoCo and whatever TRF dose the best.. i am hoping either the purple bottle of DM or the OC+ dose the best because i like their profile.. the only thing that OC+ has over the DM in the micro nutes is Zinc.. witch could lead to problem if no is their.. Doc can agree on that from his last grow even with Zinc.. so thats the 1 bad thing about the DM..

however i do think the DM is more dialed in on the temp problems and the OC+ dumping more nutes then needed. witch in my case is not good because it gets so hot over here.. it should be cooling down this next week..

i also decided to keep the girls on the 10/14 light time.. i want to just hurry up and finish these girls off and start fresh.. they have been threw hell.. ive never had plants grow threw this many things at once and i respect them allot for this, but its time for them to be done..all of the bottom branches are dead and i am just left with all the tops. i think the Maxi did a number on them from all the salts..

I talked to Gh again and they told me that the Maxi wasn't meant for indoors only out doors.. who knows? they all say something different every time..lol..
but the bottoms of the plants are not looking too good from the nutes and lack of light from such a big dense canopy.. this canopy is crazy dense.. i am hoping since the bottom branches are dead it will just put its energy into the tops now...

its sad this grow started off looking the best i have seen, but hydro mixed with MaxiBloom and these crazy temps just do go good..

glad these temps will be over on the next grow because its not fun for me or my plants..

this grow just wasn't meant to be the true 1080w led grow..life moves on.lol
 
How is one to keep it simple with all the stuff...ahhh....

I am going to snag some mandala strains and I bet OC+ would rock it just perfecto!

Glad all is well Irish brotha!

-Go
 
How is one to keep it simple with all the stuff...ahhh....

I am going to snag some mandala strains and I bet OC+ would rock it just perfecto!

Glad all is well Irish brotha!

-Go

its very simple, dip a measuring spoon in the Carbo-max and dump it into the 5gal water, then dump 4tsp of GF and ur done..

the outcome is way worth it using the Carbs and GF trust me on that.. the frosty buds will show.. i think Sillica should be added to every Hydro grow.. the thing that sucks is mixing the GH 3 part.. Micro then vegg then bloom, that shit sucks. as of right now it take me no longer then 3 min to mix my nutes.
 
Watering pump? Watering wand? I thought your setup was on auto-drip or something like that?

What would be ideal for my promix...
 
Nice bush marduk! :cool:

I am hitting up beyond the brain x 20.

WOOT WOOT

Sorry irish. Kinda thumped your thread. MY bad bro!
:popcorn:

You, sir, are correct. Mandala has a great FAQ and grow guide that I highly recommend [just happens to parallel my own philosophy] wherein they believe that big leaves+fat stems+massive roots= Big phat sugary buds.
43DazeOlde.jpg

They also breed away from nutrient junkies, breeding for hybrid vigor and minimal nutes required for optimal growth. Any of us who have had the misfortune of hooking up with 'ladies' that are 'needy' beyond belief know where I'm coming from.

And I'm not just talking about plants here.

b not :morenutes:

What he said-

hehe

-Go
 
Watering pump? Watering wand? I thought your setup was on auto-drip or something like that?

What would be ideal for my promix...
once i added the TRF i turned off the drip system and switched to a watering wand.. to water the medium evenly since i top dressed the plants with the TRF, the drip system wouldn't be good in my case.. i dont know what would be ideal in ur case.. you have to try different things out.. i like watering the whole medium, some like watering in one spot, never seen a side x side done so cant say whats the best.
That filter looks Nice. Would that fit inside a 4X4 tent? No hude round carbon filter nor inline fan-an all in one solution sounds good to me :) which replacements are needed to the 6" model?

from what i read i believe its around 20" or so long so yes i would be great in a tent.. you need the parts for to #2 model.. should be around $59 or so.. i am not to sure if that kit comes with both filters needed or just one? you would have to call and ask. i am getting on for sure latter on. my round filter take way too much room in my grow room
 
I'm surprised you're still getting growth above 90 degrees at all. I guess it depends on how far along the plants are. My CFL lights slipped down to where my thermo was reading 90-92 right at my two week old plants and they completely shut down and started harvesting their own bottom leaves )they turned yellow and started curling).

One plant, either rock or cole train kept right on growing despite the heat and is over twice the size of the others now so genetics play a part too. (It was "lower" than the other plants but I doubt enough to matter - maybe 1/2 an inch).

Once I raised the lights back up and dropped the temp to 82 everything perked right back up though those bottom leaves still look worse for wear. I'm using a home built stealth hydro Deep Water Culture so at least they didn't dry out. That's probably the only reason most of them survived the heat wave.

A fan makes a big difference if you can't bring the ambient temp down. The apparent temp at the leaves will be 10 below ambient or so in a decent breeze.
 
I'm surprised you're still getting growth above 90 degrees at all. I guess it depends on how far along the plants are. My CFL lights slipped down to where my thermo was reading 90-92 right at my two week old plants and they completely shut down and started harvesting their own bottom leaves )they turned yellow and started curling).

One plant, either rock or cole train kept right on growing despite the heat and is over twice the size of the others now so genetics play a part too. (It was "lower" than the other plants but I doubt enough to matter - maybe 1/2 an inch).

Once I raised the lights back up and dropped the temp to 82 everything perked right back up though those bottom leaves still look worse for wear. I'm using a home built stealth hydro Deep Water Culture so at least they didn't dry out. That's probably the only reason most of them survived the heat wave.

A fan makes a big difference if you can't bring the ambient temp down. The apparent temp at the leaves will be 10 below ambient or so in a decent breeze.

very nice post..

ya my temps hit 100F sometimes.. the one thing that seems to help is the LED having less Radiant Heat.. and pumping Silica in them to the double up on their cell walls. fans moving is another good one.. but Silica is the key
 
Do you have a journal? I plan on using 6 daylight 105W CFL, 15 42W daylight CFL and 5 105W 2700k CFLs in my 4x4 tent. I have a 6inch inline High output fan and im going to get a carbon scrubber and eventually i will get that stealth air box thing.

I have one on another grow site but I've been thinking of putting it up here as well (I have the photos and data, thankfully). I wanted to experiment with laser irradiation of seeds prior to germination after reading of some great results with other types of plants. I was seeing excellent results on my laser treated seeds right up until the CFLs slipped and baked my plants. I don't want to hijack Irish's thread though so I'll set up my own later tonight.

Some other growers are also trying the laser pre-treatment so there should be some good data out there in the near future regardless of my own issues.
 
very nice post..

ya my temps hit 100F sometimes.. the one thing that seems to help is the LED having less Radiant Heat.. and pumping Silica in them to the double up on their cell walls. fans moving is another good one.. but Silica is the key

I placed my fan outside the grow tent so it's blowing cool air in. The way I built the monster it pulls fresh air in the bottom and exhausts the hot air out the top through my "wife will kill me if I spend another dollar on this grow" charcoal filter.

Do you have any details on this silica trick? I've read through most of your journals but missed that one somehow.
 
I have one on another grow site but I've been thinking of putting it up here as well (I have the photos and data, thankfully). I wanted to experiment with laser irradiation of seeds prior to germination after reading of some great results with other types of plants. I was seeing excellent results on my laser treated seeds right up until the CFLs slipped and baked my plants. I don't want to hijack Irish's thread though so I'll set up my own later tonight.

Some other growers are also trying the laser pre-treatment so there should be some good data out there in the near future regardless of my own issues.
never heard of this? dont worry about hijacking my thread.. my thread is your thread, post what you want or any pics you want i dont mind.
I placed my fan outside the grow tent so it's blowing cool air in. The way I built the monster it pulls fresh air in the bottom and exhausts the hot air out the top through my "wife will kill me if I spend another dollar on this grow" charcoal filter.

Do you have any details on this silica trick? I've read through most of your journals but missed that one somehow.

your setup is right on.. you want the intake on the lower end and the exhaust up top because heat rises. :goodjob:

the silica isn't a trick just and additive.. Dyna-grow makes portek witch is a very good silica. do a google search on silica for plants and you will see all the benefits it has to offer.
 
Looks good Irish. Keeping those lights at 10/14 for now is the right idea. Once you're done with these, you could try 12/12 and a far-red (IR) light source (LED=best, otherwise 'black light' incandescents like dogs is using are fine if you want to go cheap; one can always run 'em through a Rosco Dichroic IR Filter also to assist with the removal of non-IR from the bulb) on your next run. Just set up the IR to come on ~15min before normal 'lights out', and run it for ~15-30min afterwards, then shut it off. This will 'remind' the plants it's time to flower - i.e. you're giving a slight assist to the natural Dark Reversion process that occurs at night:

Phytochrome_1.jpg


Should kick the Phytochrome Pr---->Pfr equilibrium back over to the left side of the equation enough so that flowering starts. You may get a bit of mild stretching (more than 'normal' for the strain) from that during the first ~3wks+ of flowering or so, but not too bad (plants are most susceptible to stretching from IR in the early morning hours (~4-9am), not 'just after' dark). You'll more than make up for it in the increased lighting duration.

Phytochrome_2.jpg


(Adding Far-Red (IR) in the absence of visible light will also cause a certain % of the Pfr to change state back to the Pr form more quickly, so you can reduce the total time in darkness).

We'll probably find that Sativa-dominant plants have a different level of sensitivity to changes in Phytochrome - and different levels of equilibrium states reached - than Indica-dominant plants do, once proper university-sanctioned lighting studies are done on mj in the future.
----

I liked the coco filters you mentioned, though you can definitely DIY something cheaper. Lots of sources for Activated Coconut Charcoal Online. Saw some for sale on Amazon and even eBay.

Coco's great stuff - we can grow in it, kill odors with it, and it's a 100% biodegradable and renewable product, too. Can't ask for anything more!

I love Dyna-Gro Pro-TeKt, been using it for years. Strong, healthy stems and increased resistance to bugs. Helps keep those colas from falling over if they get too big, too... ;)

I have one on another grow site but I've been thinking of putting it up here as well (I have the photos and data, thankfully). I wanted to experiment with laser irradiation of seeds prior to germination after reading of some great results with other types of plants. I was seeing excellent results on my laser treated seeds right up until the CFLs slipped and baked my plants. I don't want to hijack Irish's thread though so I'll set up my own later tonight.

Some other growers are also trying the laser pre-treatment so there should be some good data out there in the near future regardless of my own issues.

Hey ganja, good to see you mate. Interested to see your updates on the 532.8nm-treated seedlings with new pics, whether they've been burned or not. Put 'em up! ;)

Cheers,

-TL
 
Looks good Irish. Keeping those lights at 10/14 for now is the right idea. Once you're done with these, you could try 12/12 and a far-red (IR) light source (LED=best, otherwise 'black light' incandescents like dogs is using are fine if you want to go cheap; one can always run 'em through a Rosco Dichroic IR Filter also to assist with the removal of non-IR from the bulb) on your next run. Just set up the IR to come on ~15min before normal 'lights out', and run it for ~15-30min afterwards, then shut it off. This will 'remind' the plants it's time to flower - i.e. you're giving a slight assist to the natural Dark Reversion process that occurs at night:

Phytochrome_1.jpg


Should kick the Phytochrome Pr---->Pfr equilibrium back over to the left side of the equation enough so that flowering starts. You may get a bit of mild stretching (more than 'normal' for the strain) from that during the first ~3wks of flowering, but not too bad (plants are most susceptible to stretching from IR in the early morning hours (~4-9am), not just after dark). You'll more than make up for it in the increased lighting duration.

Phytochrome_2.jpg


(Adding Far Red (IR) in the absence of visible light will cause a certain % of the Pfr to change state back to the Pr form more quickly, so you can reduce the total time in darkness).
----

We'll probably find that Sativa-dominant plants have a different level of sensitivity to changes in Phytochrome, and different levels of equilibrium states reached, than Indica-dominant plants do, once proper university-sanctioned lighting studies are done on mj in the future.

I liked the coco filters you mentioned, though you can definitely DIY something cheaper. Lots of sources for Activated Coconut Charcoal Online.

Coco's great stuff - we can grow in it, kill odors with it, and it's a 100% biodegradable and a renewable product, too. Can't ask for anything more!

Hey ganja, good to see you mate. Interested to see your updates on the 532.8nm-treated seedlings with new pics, whether they've been burned or not. Put 'em up! ;)

Cheers,

-TL

good to see you here TL.. great info and post, glad to see others learning the PAD way of growing..

i have everything to do a PAD setup. pure red 660nm and pure IR leds.. i just always got stuck of the different speeds for the lights and strains. once i get a tent then i will mess around with the PAD lighting a little and see what happens? not too many people know about this, but if more learn then we could get the speeds down to the T and all be happy.. soon my friend it will happen..

So you think its best to leave my girls on the 10/14? off the top of your mind how much yield do you think will be lost compared to 12/12?

Coco is very cool stuff. lots of uses
 
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