12/12 or 13hrs darks and 11hrs light: which do you use for flowering?

12/12 or 11/13

  • 12/12

    Votes: 3 75.0%
  • 11/13

    Votes: 1 25.0%

  • Total voters
    4

safeman

Well-Known Member
Over the years have used both. Have found that the 13/11 cycle does shorten "transition stage" and also reduces flower times by 1 -2 weeks (depends on strain). Understand that a plant needs 13 to 13.5 hrs of dark to stimulate the plant to start rooting. will look again for the biology/scientific info on this. Like to hear if anyone else has ever tried this cycle ? Thanks will make poll for question
 
Over the years have used both. Have found that the 13/11 cycle does shorten "transition stage" and also reduces flower times by 1 -2 weeks (depends on strain). Understand that a plant needs 13 to 13.5 hrs of dark to stimulate the plant to start rooting. will look again for the biology/scientific info on this. Like to hear if anyone else has ever tried this cycle ? Thanks will make poll for question
Used to do 11/13 with HPS but there's no need with LEDs so I stick to 12/12 on full power
 
Factor this in then... I like to start my new seedlings in 24/0 for at least a week, sometimes 2, and I get fantastic roots. There is no absolute need for a dark period to be able to develop significant roots. If the plants don't get a dark period to do what is needed they simply shut down photosynthesis for periods of time, reduce transpiration and they work on the roots.

Toward the end of the grow, when I want the plants to start finishing out, I have been known to reduce the light period to as little as 10/14 if I am in a hurry, but lately, not needing to rush, I have let them go with the 12/12 but maybe reducing the light intensity at the end a bit to give them that end of bloom signal. I think it is my impression that the DLI being higher in 12/12 results in bigger buds at the end... but I have not done a side by side to confirm this.
 
Factor this in then... I like to start my new seedlings in 24/0 for at least a week, sometimes 2, and I get fantastic roots. There is no absolute need for a dark period to be able to develop significant roots. If the plants don't get a dark period to do what is needed they simply shut down photosynthesis for periods of time, reduce transpiration and they work on the roots.

Toward the end of the grow, when I want the plants to start finishing out, I have been known to reduce the light period to as little as 10/14 if I am in a hurry, but lately, not needing to rush, I have let them go with the 12/12 but maybe reducing the light intensity at the end a bit to give them that end of bloom signal. I think it is my impression that the DLI being higher in 12/12 results in bigger buds at the end... but I have not done a side by side to confirm this.
This last/current grow I'm in, my plants (4) even with swollen bud and looking ready, they just kept throwing white pistils and just didn't want to finish out. Is that a situation where you would cut back on the hours at the end? Just asking, it just makes sense. Days get shorter and shorter naturally. thanks
 
This last/current grow I'm in, my plants (4) even with swollen bud and looking ready, they just kept throwing white pistils and just didn't want to finish out. Is that a situation where you would cut back on the hours at the end? Just asking, it just makes sense. Days get shorter and shorter naturally. thanks
Yes, at the 6 week point I used to cut 15 minutes at the front and end of the light period each week until I got to 10/14. I have also been known to raise the lights 6 inches at a time, the same way, gradually reducing the light. Dimmers make this even easier... cut off 10% per week on a linear scale. Lots of commercial growers use these techniques to get shorter grows, but also keep in mind that many connoisseurs absolutely do not do this, valuing the DLI more than speed.
There are lots of tricks to get slow ones to finish out, but keep in mind this is not a forever plant... it has to finish out eventually, even without the tricks. Messing with the light schedule, spectrum and intensity, dropping the temperature, pinning the trunk with a nail, ice water, reducing the nutes... all have their place in telling the plant to finish up.
 
Factor this in then... I like to start my new seedlings in 24/0 for at least a week, sometimes 2, and I get fantastic roots. There is no absolute need for a dark period to be able to develop significant roots. If the plants don't get a dark period to do what is needed they simply shut down photosynthesis for periods of time, reduce transpiration and they work on the roots.

Toward the end of the grow, when I want the plants to start finishing out, I have been known to reduce the light period to as little as 10/14 if I am in a hurry, but lately, not needing to rush, I have let them go with the 12/12 but maybe reducing the light intensity at the end a bit to give them that end of bloom signal. I think it is my impression that the DLI being higher in 12/12 results in bigger buds at the end... but I have not done a side by side to confirm this.
used to do the 10/14 agree !! For 100% sativa I start at 12/12 from seed , veg 3 weeks and them give them a 24hr dark time before flowering them at 11/13 and finish them off with 10/14 them sativa's can grow forever (16 + flower times but in the end worth it. Considering doing Malawi from Ace seeds and Panama Red from Dr. Greenthumbs ( refferman's panama red x Panama sativa)
 
This last/current grow I'm in, my plants (4) even with swollen bud and looking ready, they just kept throwing white pistils and just didn't want to finish out. Is that a situation where you would cut back on the hours at the end? Just asking, it just makes sense. Days get shorter and shorter naturally. thanks
Must admit, I am finishing a hybrid which has reverted to Sativa stylie
So I've turned down the sunlamp to 30% and upped the 70/30 LED to red
Seems to work
 
Over the years have used both. Have found that the 13/11 cycle does shorten "transition stage" and also reduces flower times by 1 -2 weeks (depends on strain). Understand that a plant needs 13 to 13.5 hrs of dark to stimulate the plant to start rooting. will look again for the biology/scientific info on this. Like to hear if anyone else has ever tried this cycle ? Thanks will make poll for question


big light and a diminishing light shed in flower works barrels. quicker finish by up to two wks or more and no real loss in produce.

only way to run land race.

you have to have the light to do it.

i go 12/12 til they show - 10 - 14 days. then 11 / 13 for a couple wks then 10 / 14 the rest. it's beaut if you run sativas, and the indica chug no matter.

but you need big light and the ppfd in the hrs you give to do it.


edit : oh yeah, you don't need to be dainty. ... :cheesygrinsmiley:
no five to fifteen minutes a day. . give it wk or so and cut them sharp by an hour
 
big light and a diminishing light shed in flower works barrels. quicker finish by up to two wks or more and no real loss in produce.

only way to run land race.

you have to have the light to do it.

i go 12/12 til they show - 10 - 14 days. then 11 / 13 for a couple wks then 10 / 14 the rest. it's beaut if you run sativas, and the indica chug no matter.

but you need big light and the ppfd in the hrs you give to do it.


edit : oh yeah, you don't need to be dainty. ... :cheesygrinsmiley:
no five to fifteen minutes a day. . give it wk or so and cut them sharp by an hour
Thanks interesting -- Thanks
 
Over the years have used both. Have found that the 13/11 cycle does shorten "transition stage" and also reduces flower times by 1 -2 weeks (depends on strain). Understand that a plant needs 13 to 13.5 hrs of dark to stimulate the plant to start rooting. will look again for the biology/scientific info on this. Like to hear if anyone else has ever tried this cycle ? Thanks will make poll for question
I use 11.5 light / 12.5 dark so similar to 11/13. Thats how the Hawaiians grow indoors at least thats where I got it from.

My outdoor flowers started flowering with 14 hrs of daylight this year. It's not a great comparo but its what it is.
 
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