20 Days Old Veg Have Pistils

Rhizome

Active Member
Hi,

My grow journal is here: Blueberry Auto with Cfl+LED

Strain: Blueberry Auto. She is 20 days old from seed and just 8.5 cm tall and have pistils:

pistils.jpg

pistils1.jpg


This didn't seem normal to me at all. What do you think?
 
Hi,

My grow journal is here: Blueberry Auto with Cfl+LED

Strain: Blueberry Auto. She is 20 days old from seed and just 8.5 cm tall and have pistils:

pistils.jpg

pistils1.jpg


This didn't seem normal to me at all. What do you think?
Good morning @Rhizome hope your having a nice day.
Cute girl.
She is hungry.
Also likely an auto.
Autos go into flower automatically no light manipulation needed.
So that's normal.
But she needs nutrition asap.
Are you in coco?
Do you have nutrients?

Stay safe
Bill
 
Hi Bill, have a nice day to you too.

Yes, she is my first auto. But I've never seen anything like this in auto growers' journals before. Medium: Unhappily ordinary plant soil you can find in any stores. I have a liquid fertilizer but I have not used it yet. Nutritional values: N 8%, P 3%, K 7%, Mg 2% I water every 3 days (1 liter drinking water, 7.1 pH).
 
Hi Bill, have a nice day to you too.

Yes, she is my first auto. But I've never seen anything like this in auto growers' journals before. Medium: Unhappily ordinary plant soil you can find in any stores. I have a liquid fertilizer but I have not used it yet. Nutritional values: N 8%, P 3%, K 7%, Mg 2% I water every 3 days (1 liter drinking water, 7.1 pH).
Mix a batch full strength and set ph to 6.3.
And feed her.
Let her dry dry dry in-between feeding.
Every 3 days isn't a good plan.:Namaste:
Do you feel confident watering or do you need a little coaching?

Stay safe
Bill
 
Hiya @Rhizome I don't think 7.1 is that high and shouldn't send a plant into flower in 2 weeks. You got a dud, pop another bean and see if it happens again. If 3 days gives you good dry cycle, that's a fine schedule. Are you 24h light?
 
Yes, she is my first auto. But I've never seen anything like this in auto growers' journals before.
Welcome to the group. "Rhizome" sounds like a great username for someone who is into gardening.;)

I don't see this mentioned in grow journals either that I can remember but it does come up regularly. Usually we will see it being asked in threads starting off with "What is this?" or Why is this happening?".
 
Not unheard of, but next time try feeding it.
 
Mix a batch full strength and set ph to 6.3.
And feed her.
Let her dry dry dry in-between feeding.
Every 3 days isn't a good plan.:Namaste:
Do you feel confident watering or do you need a little coaching?

Stay safe
Bill
I found bottled water with a slightly lower pH (6.8) and added a cap of nutrient to 1 liter and watered it. I don't know how to lower the pH. Let me search.:nomo:

Sorry, I don't understand this part (non-native speaker:battingeyelashes:): "Let her dry dry dry in-between feeding." 3 times watering drying cycle without nutrient and then water+nutrient? A little coaching wouldn't be bad.

I'm reading the posts you sent in the other thread, thanks. I realized I was doing roughly the same thing as in the first post. I have to admit that "this thing is growing in the fking HUGE EARTH, why bother with small pots?" I thought and went straight to the big pot. I guess I'll start with small pots next time.
 
Hiya @Rhizome I don't think 7.1 is that high and shouldn't send a plant into flower in 2 weeks. You got a dud, pop another bean and see if it happens again. If 3 days gives you good dry cycle, that's a fine schedule. Are you 24h light?
I could not fully understand. Some kind of pseudobloom?
It seems to me that it dries enough in 3 days.
First week 18/6 then 20/4. Could this change have affected her? I guess I tried too hard to raise a Frankenstein.:morenutes:
 
Welcome to the group. "Rhizome" sounds like a great username for someone who is into gardening.;)

I don't see this mentioned in grow journals either that I can remember but it does come up regularly. Usually we will see it being asked in threads starting off with "What is this?" or Why is this happening?".
Thanks. :Namaste: I am also surprised that the username has not been taken so far. This is also a philosophical concept.

Principles of the rhizome:

"1 and 2: Principles of connection and heterogeneity: any point of a rhizome can be connected to anything other, and must be

3. Principle of multiplicity: only when the multiple is effectively treated as a substantive, "multiplicity" that it ceases to have any relation to the One

4. Principle of asignifying rupture: a rhizome may be broken, but it will start up again on one of its old lines, or on new lines

5 and 6: Principles of cartography and decalcomania: a rhizome is not amenable to any structural or generative model; it is a "map and not a tracing" (Deleuze&Guattari)


I find it very graceful that this idea inspired by plant roots overlaps wonderfully with the effect of cannabis on consciousness.
 
I found bottled water with a slightly lower pH (6.8) and added a cap of nutrient to 1 liter and watered it. I don't know how to lower the pH. Let me search.:nomo:

Sorry, I don't understand this part (non-native speaker:battingeyelashes:): "Let her dry dry dry in-between feeding." 3 times watering drying cycle without nutrient and then water+nutrient? A little coaching wouldn't be bad.

I'm reading the posts you sent in the other thread, thanks. I realized I was doing roughly the same thing as in the first post. I have to admit that "this thing is growing in the fking HUGE EARTH, why bother with small pots?" I thought and went straight to the big pot. I guess I'll start with small pots next time.
My apologies my friend. :Namaste:
When I say dry dry dry I don't mean 3 dry cycles.
It's just my way of emphasizing the importance of the dry cycle.
I can go over it better when I get a minute

Stay safe
Bill
 
I could not fully understand. Some kind of pseudobloom?
It seems to me that it dries enough in 3 days.
First week 18/6 then 20/4. Could this change have affected her? I guess I tried too hard to raise a Frankenstein.
I agree about the watering, 3 days isn't bad but the key really is pot weight. Let it dry a little extra, to a good droop (wont hurt the plant at all), feel the weight of that, then soak it to runoff, feel the weight to that, then make that your baseline of when to water as opposed to a strict schedule. It's certainly plausible that a funky seed (breeder genetics aren't perfect) that got set off by a small change, or some sort of chain of events thing went on. I might be tempted to pop a new bean to hedge my bet, but It looks healthy enough though, if you have room to let it keep going it would be interesting to see how it turns out!

I'll try lowering the pH.
You can lower ph with vinegar. I take my 7.5 tap water to about 6.8 with a tablespoon of vinegar in every gallon of water I server up.

I believe a big part of growing weed is a feel thing. I don't sweat the details too much...I bought a soil want and borrowed a ph pen a long time ago so I know what my tap water starts out at and what the vinegar does to the dirt but that's about it. My soil (plain potting soil) is around 6.8 - 7 and it produces big weed. I push my plants with nutes every watering but cut back on the prescribed dosages. And remember weed is like doritos, we can always grow more!
 
You can lower ph with vinegar. I take my 7.5 tap water to about 6.8 with a tablespoon of vinegar in every gallon of water I server up.

I prefer food grade phosphoric acid (generally, in a commercial pH down product). I figure plants can use that, and I don't know if plants can use acetic acid (vinegar). While it could be argued that the act of lowering pH, in and of itself, is sufficient... well, I'm happy knowing that what I use is actively useful as nutrition to the plants. Also, it's pretty stable. if pH rises, and there are no issues, then I can assume that it is because the plants have consumed some of the phosphorous from the nutrient solution, so I can add more to bring it back in line. Or, depending on other factors, simply add more of the fertilizer component that contains phosphorous (eg, the "bloom" one).

If I was already adding acetic acid for purposes of plant nutrition, then I would consider using to raise pH. But this isn't the case. This is one of the reasons I do not use sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) to increase pH; it's not something that plants have a use for. Potassium and silicon, on the other hand, are - so I'll use a commercial formulation that contains those two elements when I need to increase it.

The stuff is not expensive in liquid form. It's cheaper still in dry form. Yes, a gallon of vinegar is cheap, too, but I don't feel that any potential price difference would be significant.
 
Thanks. :green_heart:
I'll try lowering the pH.
I know they are, but it seems too early.
I think the pH is your main issue. If your nutes are not set to the correct pH your plant wont take up all the elements in the nutrients. pH naturally climbs upward on it's own so you need to start at the low end of the scale at 6.3 for soil.
All the nutes your plants need are mostly between the 6.3 - 6.8 pH range. At 7.1 you are skipping a lot of the elements.
The wrong pH can cause a nute lockout & cause deficiencies & toxicities. Correct the pH & I think your plants will be fine.
The pistils are normal for an Auto, but still seems just a slight bit early. Most Auto's start flowering around day 21. That's why you should not top an auto after 21 days.
 
There's definitely other products to lower ph, but people have been doing it this way for some time now and I grow some pretty nice weed plants with the vinegar. It's 2 dollars compared to 29 dollars for ph down and I'm a 90% results for 10% of the cost kind of a guy, what can I say?
 
There's definitely other products to lower ph, but people have been doing it this way for some time now and I grow some pretty nice weed plants with the vinegar.
Do you use regular 'white vinegar' at 5% acidity, the kind usually used for cooking, canning, etc?

Or do you use 'cider vinegar' at 5% acidity which does taste better but is often higher priced?
 
There's definitely other products to lower ph, but people have been doing it this way for some time now and I grow some pretty nice weed plants with the vinegar. It's 2 dollars compared to 29 dollars for ph down and I'm a 90% results for 10% of the cost kind of a guy, what can I say?

And if I used a pint of the stuff at a time, that would be a significant thing, lol. But I don't grow acres of crops.

It probably makes a difference what form (hydroponic/soilless/soil) of gardening a person does, and what types of and specific products the gardener uses to feed the plants with. I am thinking (guessing) that vinegar would probably work better in soil. Although, depending on what's in the soil... If the lime in the soil doesn't quickly break it down, the microbes would turn it into CO₂ within a week at the outside. Assuming that there was lime and/or microbes in the soil to begin with.

It is obviously working well for you.
 
Back
Top Bottom