Any help is welcome

[newfarmeragain]

This baby is in the third week, 200umols/m2/s, 23inches distance... water one time a week... Idk what is happening.

 

[Azimuth]

Soil looks pretty wet. You should be watering when the soil is dry, not on a schedule.

Only give more water when you are surprised at how light the pot is when you pick it up.

Welcome to the forums!

 

[newfarmeragain]

.

 

[newfarmeragain]

Soil looks pretty wet. You should be watering when the soil is dry, not on a schedule.

Only give more water when you are surprised at how light the pot is when you pick it up.

Welcome to the forums!

The soil ph is 7.5... Do you have any tip of how i could fix the pH in this situation?

 

[013]

Hey Newfarmer!

Thats a nice looking plant, they are so cute at that age!!

cheapie probe type multifunction meters are not considered to be accurate but know this-… if you are fiddling with ph- then it’s the ph value of the liquids that you pour on the plant that matter. Same thang but said differently- don’t worry about testing runoff ph, the number to focus on is the ph value of your liquids right before you feed/water the plant

Ok here’s my apologies up front… and it’s gonna sound a bit harsh maybe but it’s never intended that way…. Why are you wanting to change the soils ph? Do you know more than the folks who mixed, cooked and bagged that particular soil mix?

Yes, you can definitely change the soils ph but what then? How much lime? Will the plant croak? How long will the lime be effective? All unknowns

If you just arbitrarily change the soils ph then every time you feed and for several days thereafter the ph will really, really be out of range. Further, when ph is out of range you may as well toss your nutes out ’da window because the plant can’t access those nutrients.

Is this seedling a photoperiod, an autoflower or an unknown bagseed?

Right now I‘m strongly suspecting it’s an auto flower based on appearance. Weed roots need access to oxygen which is in very low supply in the soil when it’s continuously wet. Once the soil dries back she should resume growth. It’s also worth mentioning that hardside plastic pots take longer to dry out than fabric smart pots…

Welcome aboard Newfarmeragain!

hang right here and we will get ya all tuned up

 

[013]

here’s a great article on watering that we encourage everyone to read

How to water a potted plant

^ ^ hyperlinks appear in green font ^ ^

 

[Azimuth]

The soil ph is 7.5... Do you have any tip of how i could fix the pH in this situation?

Tell us a bit about your grow, like what soil mix are you using, what nutes, lights, environment (high/low temps and humidity) , etc.

 

[newfarmeragain]

Hey Newfarmer!

Thats a nice looking plant, they are so cute at that age!!

cheapie probe type multifunction meters are not considered to be accurate but know this-… if you are fiddling with ph- then it’s the ph value of the liquids that you pour on the plant that matter. Same thang but said differently- don’t worry about testing runoff ph, the number to focus on is the ph value of your liquids right before you feed/water the plant

Ok here’s my apologies up front… and it’s gonna sound a bit harsh maybe but it’s never intended that way…. Why are you wanting to change the soils ph? Do you know more than the folks who mixed, cooked and bagged that particular soil mix?

Yes, you can definitely change the soils ph but what then? How much lime? Will the plant croak? How long will the lime be effective? All unknowns

If you just arbitrarily change the soils ph then every time you feed and for several days thereafter the ph will really, really be out of range. Further, when ph is out of range you may as well toss your nutes out ’da window because the plant can’t access those nutrients.

Is this seedling a photoperiod, an autoflower or an unknown bagseed?

Right now I‘m strongly suspecting it’s an auto flower based on appearance. Weed roots need access to oxygen which is in very low supply in the soil when it’s continuously wet. Once the soil dries back she should resume growth. It’s also worth mentioning that hardside plastic pots take longer to dry out than fabric smart pots…

Welcome aboard Newfarmeragain!

hang right here and we will get ya all tuned up

It is an blue dream fem photoperiod... I'm measure my water with other device, and use rain water 6.5 by default but idk, why my soil is like 7.5... ill wait the soil dry and then i update here. I'm really new at this and I'm feel little lost with this problems... I really appreciate for your help. Thank you so much.

 

[SSgrower]

Temp & Humidity? They need to be 78-82 degrees & 75-70 % humidity for a seedling in your Micro-climate tent, what size tent or micro-climate? We desire answers to pertinent questions you may deem silly or intrusive,SSgrower

 

[Roy Growin]

Yes, looks like the roots are permanently wet, starving the roots of Oxygen
It will also interfere with nutrient uptake
Remember - pH range is not for the plant, it's for optimal nutrient availability
Have you fed the plant yet?
Your nutrients/medium dictate ideal pH but if you aren't sure, around pH 6.0-6.2 is a fairly safe middling point
Let it dry a little more between watering and make sure the pot is raised slightly to allow proper drainage

 

[Bill284]

Welcome to 420Magazine my friend
I see the team has already started to help out.
If you want to say Hi and meet everyone else here is a link

Introduce Yourself

Your opportunity to tell the 420 community a little about yourself and your interest in cannabis with a brief introduction

www.420magazine.com

Hope your girl is OK.
Take care.


Stay safe
Bill284

 

[SmokingWings]

Do you have any tip of how i could fix the pH in this situation?

No need to fix it. As others have brought up the situation is not broke. Measure the soil pH today and most likely it will be a different number tomorrow. The beauty of a good or even an average soil growing medium is that it will take care of these minor soil pH levels for you. Growing in soil is a lot different than using hydro methods where even being off a .1 in pH could lead to problems in a matter of days.

And, many of those growers swear by Blue Lab pens/probes or anything that they would use in a laboratory where the science of what they are doing requires consistent accuracy.

I'm measure my water with other device, and use rain water 6.5 by default but idk, why my soil is like 7.5...

You did not mention where you are at when you filled out your profile but do a good web search for the average rain pH in your country. If you live in the US your can even narrow the search down to the state and sometimes even the part of that state you are in.

The average pH in the US is 5.6 for rain and melted snow. If your rainwater has a pH of 6.5 I have to think that the pen or device is not calibrated or it is time to re-calibrate it. Another thing that throws off one of the pH pens is the level of charge remaining in the battery.

I am hoping to collect another 10 or more gallons of rain and melted snow water by the time today's rain ends sometime this evening.

 

[SmokingWings]

It is an blue dream fem photoperiod...

Great plant. I have been growing Blue Dream clones from clones from clones from a seed planted in November of 2017. Get your plant dialed in and it will reward you nicely and you will both be happy.

 

[newfarmeragain]

Tell us a bit about your grow, like what soil mix are you using, what nutes, lights, environment (high/low temps and humidity) , etc.

The size of my tent is 6x3ft with an SF2000 light.

My soil mix consists of 60% peat moss with perlite, 30% worm castings, 4% bokashi, 4% bonsai fertilizer, and 2% mycorrhizae.

For nutrients, I'm considering alternating between molasses + bokashi + lactic acid and seaweed fertilizer.

I'm aiming to maintain humidity between 75%-80%.

Temperature is a bit challenging as it fluctuates, but it generally stays between 73°F-87°F.

 

[Azimuth]

My soil mix consists of 60% peat moss with perlite, 30% worm castings, 4% bokashi, 4% bonsai fertilizer, and 2% mycorrhizae.

Any idea what percentage is perlite? You want a good percentage to ensure good drainage, like 30-40%.

For nutrients, I'm considering alternating between molasses + bokashi + lactic acid and seaweed fertilizer.

The molasses will feed the microbes but shouldn't be a steady diet, bokashi is good stuff, @Bill284 uses that and is similar to compost but likely not enough, the lactic acid will help break down the organics but in itself won't be enough, and the seaweed is good for trace elements but also likely not enough.

My bet is you'll need more horsepower as canna is a very hungry plant.

I'm aiming to maintain humidity between 75%-80%.

Probably a bit high. Do you have a way to lower that a bit?

Temperature is a bit challenging as it fluctuates, but it generally stays between 73°F-87°F.

That actually sounds about perfect.

 

[bluter]

you will need actual nutes. did you mix the media yourself or buy a market product ? i ask as i see it may have been packed with gnats as well. it's not a deal breaker at all, those yellow stickies are a good measure.

 

[Bill284]

Any idea what percentage is perlite? You want a good percentage to ensure good drainage, like 30-40%.


The molasses will feed the microbes but shouldn't be a steady diet, bokashi is good stuff, @Bill284 uses that and is similar to compost but likely not enough, the lactic acid will help break down the organics but in itself won't be enough, and the seaweed is good for trace elements but also likely not enough.

My bet is you'll need more horsepower as canna is a very hungry plant.


Probably a bit high. Do you have a way to lower that a bit?


That actually sounds about perfect.

Hey Azi hope everything is going well today my friend.
Molasses once a week to feed the microbes is plenty.
Bokashi has some good microbes but more variety is needed IMO.
They help feed the nutrients to her.
But you still need the nutrients to be there.
Seaweed is great stuff.
I use it consistently , with nutrients though not as nutrients.


Stay safe
Bill284

 

[013]

ahh so glad to hear it’s a photoperiod!!

Ok then, if it’s peat mixed with all the other goodies mentioned then you have what’s known as a Frankenmix. So peat moss or CSPM is not soil, it’s one component of a soil mix but at a minimum you need peat mixed with mulch, dolomite for buffering, and it needs to be cooked together (sweated) for minimum of 30 days before use.

trust us for now I’d but stay away from mixing your own gear until you get your grow legs better established. You can tinker with that later but you need to follow a well known recipe like Coots mix when you do. Maybe look at buying a bag of either HP Pro-mix, Sunshine #4, Coast of Maine Stonington or Fox Farms if you are in North America

not sure I’d change anything with your soil right now but if she survives then you can defs transplant into larger container with better soil in a week or three. Fabric smart pots have 360 degrees of aeration and will help speed up the wet dry cycles when compared to hardside plastic pots

 

[newfarmeragain]

you will need actual nutes. did you mix the media yourself or buy a market product ? i ask as i see it may have been packed with gnats as well. it's not a deal breaker at all, those yellow stickies are a good measure.

Yes, I have yellow stickies to monitor gnats, and I mix my own media for better control over nutrients. I also use Beauveria bassiana, Bacillus thuringiensis, and Neem cake alongside the stickies for proactive pest control, which has been effective.

 

[newfarmeragain]

Hey Azi hope everything is going well today my friend.
Molasses once a week to feed the microbes is plenty.
Bokashi has some good microbes but more variety is needed IMO.
They help feed the nutrients to her.
But you still need the nutrients to be there.
Seaweed is great stuff.
I use it consistently , with nutrients though not as nutrients.


Stay safe
Bill284

Thinking of mixing in kale juice or trying some pumpkin seed juice, or maybe even experimenting with worm castings tea... Not sure if it'll work, but fingers crossed!