Any help is welcome

ahh so glad to hear it’s a photoperiod!!

Ok then, if it’s peat mixed with all the other goodies mentioned then you have what’s known as a Frankenmix. So peat moss or CSPM is not soil, it’s one component of a soil mix but at a minimum you need peat mixed with mulch, dolomite for buffering, and it needs to be cooked together (sweated) for minimum of 30 days before use.

trust us for now I’d but stay away from mixing your own gear until you get your grow legs better established. You can tinker with that later but you need to follow a well known recipe like Coots mix when you do. Maybe look at buying a bag of either HP Pro-mix, Sunshine #4, Coast of Maine Stonington or Fox Farms if you are in North America

not sure I’d change anything with your soil right now but if she survives then you can defs transplant into larger container with better soil in a week or three. Fabric smart pots have 360 degrees of aeration and will help speed up the wet dry cycles when compared to hardside plastic pots
I was excited to hear that it was a mix of good things, like Frankie?:ganjamon::yahoo: The dolomite will certainly help stabilize the pH. I'm even thinking about trying eggshells as an alternative. I have these smart pots, but they're too large to use for germination... They're like 3 and 5 gallons.:thumb:
 
Still a very good idea to study several different fertilizer programs and then settle on one to use.

What you are doing with the teas, Kelp, and things like eggshells is similar to what people do when adding some supplements to their already average healthy diets. Most of the time adding a couple of supplements here and there will not do much by themselves. Been there and done it.

World of difference what even an average fertilizer program will do for the plants. Then the supplements will show what they are capable of bringing to the party;).
 
One more question, is it better to cut off these burned leaves or just leave them there?:nervous-guy:

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were you trying to create a water only media ?
I really don't know LOL...:thumb: I never do this before...
A 'water only' grow media is one where all the necessary nutrients have already been added. Once the plant is in the media all the grower has to do is water when needed until the harvest. No need to have to worry about whether more of any nutrient or mineral is needed.

With a 'water only' there is no need to have to think about whether to add some dolomite lime, kelp meal, compost tea, or egg shells or anything else. All the chores were done either by the company that mixed the soil or by the grower sometime before the plant is put into the soil.
 
One more question, is it better to cut off these burned leaves or just leave them there?
Better to leave them until you are able to figure out why they look 'burned'. Have to know what or why the very bottom leaves picked up that very pale color.

More importantly is why so much of the newer growth on and near the top leaves looks like it is fading into a lighter yellow as if the plant is not getting enough nutrients.
 
With a 'water only' there is no need to have to think about whether to add some dolomite lime, kelp meal, compost tea, or egg shells or anything else. All the chores were done either by the company that mixed the soil or by the grower sometime before the plant is put into the soil.


was trying to figure the OP's idea behind his media.
 
A 'water only' grow media is one where all the necessary nutrients have already been added. Once the plant is in the media all the grower has to do is water when needed until the harvest. No need to have to worry about whether more of any nutrient or mineral is needed.

With a 'water only' there is no need to have to think about whether to add some dolomite lime, kelp meal, compost tea, or egg shells or anything else. All the chores were done either by the company that mixed the soil or by the grower sometime before the plant is put into the soil
Are we talk about the super soil idea? I don't consider my soil a super soil...
 
The roots are damaged from sitting in wet media, as a result they can't absorb nutrients. Let them dry out before watering (with 25% strength nutes) again, then adjust the nutes depending on how the plants react, luckily they're photos, so you have time for recovery. I'd also think about getting some real potting soil, frankensoil, is not a good thing! If you're going to mix your own soil, use an established recipe, don't wing it. Also, most homemade soils need to cook for a month or more to get the microbes breaking down the compounds into forms useable by the plant.
 
This baby is in the third week, 200umols/m2/s, 23inches distance... water one time a week... Idk what is happening.

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At 200 µmol, your plant is getting very, very little light.

If you’ve been able to calibrate Phone against a known good source, that’s great. If you have not calibrated it against a known good source, it is impossible to know if the readings are accurate. In this case, I would recommend you go with the manufacturers recommended settings.
 
I was excited to hear that it was a mix of good things, like Frankie?:ganjamon::yahoo: The dolomite will certainly help stabilize the pH. I'm even thinking about trying eggshells as an alternative. I have these smart pots, but they're too large to use for germination... They're like 3 and 5 gallons.:thumb:
Don't put dolomite lime straight on a Cannabis plant. If you're adding dolomite lime you also need to include gypsum to get the right Ca:Mg ratio. Using only dolomite lime is horrible for growing Cannabis since it's has a negative Ca:Mg ratio causing all sorts of lockouts.

Gypsum is way safer and better to use to buffer pH since it takes longer to break down compared to dolomite lime. I personally used gypsum and Epsom salt when I needed to add extra Ca:Mg growing with Dyna Gro in containers but it's not in any way needed growing with Jacks since it's both high in Ca and Mg from the get go.
 
I changed everything but every day is a new problem :peacetwo:. I increased the distance between the top of the plant and the light, I had added 300 umol of light but it started to burn the leaves, so I went back to 200 umol, I will send new photos, I added nutrients for the fifth week but it seems that its development is delayed and I don't know if I should treat it as if it were the fifth week, or the previous weeks, as the first or second week. :hmmmm:

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it's time to rethink everything. probably should go back to basics and let us help you from the beginning up.
 
I just wanted to pop in an mention that when a plant is very young like this, it can be a little rough until the plant gets some roots down. For some reason, all of my seedlings get off to a rough start when transplanted to soil. (I start in pete pellets and move to soil such as happy frog). Young plants are sensitive to nutrient loaded soil, but they get hungry fast.

So, basically the first few sets of leaves are only temporary. As more leaves come in and the roots go deeper, the plant can bounce back nice and healthy. You could start over, but I think this one will get healthy soon. The new leaves look healthy to me, I think you plant is getting ready to take off !

Be careful not to overwater, they dont need a lot when they are this small. (looking at your soil it seems to be decently watered, I dont see overwatered soil..) Plants love a little dry soil, it does them good ! (earlier pictures show some signs of overatering, if the leaves droop and point down, its the plant talking to you saying " Hey Human your drowning me !"

PH 7.5 in soil. How did you test this? If it is high, feed a little low, around 6.0 and it will balance out eventually. I wouldnt water to runoff just yet, (water lightly for now) but you can check the runoff later to get an idea (ballpark) of where the PH is. For instance, if I water with 6.5 water and it comes out 7.5 I know something may be off. You want to be in the ball park with PH as its pretty hard to know exactly what the PH is. If the soil is 7.5 and you water low around 6.0, it should put you in a good place..

Also, not sure what your feeding, but a little Nitrogen might green things up a bit. (very light veg nutrients)
 
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