Chlorine & flouride free water free from outside water catch barrel

[Cannabliss89]

Now that we're starting to get some rain here and there I've started to collect and store. My tap water has chloramine so it's a lot harder to get it out and going to the glacier dispensar to fill up 5 gallon jugs can be a pain in the ass and it adds up after a while. I can collect 10 gallons in like 10 minutes if it's raining good so it's super convenient.

Do I have to worry about storing it for a while? It's got a brown tinge to it cuz I collect it from my gutter run off but I'm not worried about it cuz I only give it to the plants, I store it in my garage and I try to keep it in the dark so algae or whatever doesn't grow. I should be able to just keep it like this until I need to use it right?

 

[LEDBud]

I use a small aquarium aerator on a timer set to run a few hours a day to keep my water storage oxygenated.
A poly garbage can lasts me a few months with a small grow.

I aerate it again in a smaller can before adding nutrients.
tip:
The ph can wander in mixed nutrients so I mix just enough for immediate use.

Also

I use a pump to transfer the rain water from a outside poly garbage can to a inside poly can.
Water holds its maximum oxygen level at 67* , I store it at 60 degrees and aerate it until it reaches 67 degrees before each use.

Healthy bacteria need oxygen to live , keeping your water oxygenated will let them live and kill the harmful bacteria.

It will also clear your water as its health increases and matter settles to the bottom.

 

[High yogi]

I was doing what most of us do who do not have a RO filter , I was trying to clear the chlorine from the tap water by using Aeration from my bubbler for 24 hrs before use , this is not always convenient or even effective so I started catching rain water in a barrel / trash can for tater use.

I still aerate it for 10-20 hours before use but with no danger of the microbe killing chlorine and fluoride in it

for me I have a endless supply of rain water until the hot months of summer arrive , then I can use creek water from the forest with its mineral rich content.

I thought I would mention it to others who are battling the chlorine as I was.


Normal clean rain has a PH of 5 to 5.5 , Acid rain has a PH of 4 which is acidic enough to kill fish and aquatic eggs.

If your battling Chlorine a catch barrel will give you much cleaner healthier water to water with.

yep got my rain barrel five years ago, 55 gallons of security and health.

 

[spacef]

its scary stuff , could be why Cancer is so prevalent , or one of the reasons.

Many water districts use Chloride instead of Chlorine , Chloride does not release from the water as readily as the chlorine does (apparently)
So some people are stuck with it in their water so to speak.

I've just read that Chloride (non-toxic form of chlorine) is necessary to plants, whereas chlorine is not. Mixing both is the worse that you can do I've read that they add chloride in nutrients, because there is not enough in rainwater nowadays. On the other hand, chlorine can cause clorosis as you already know.

Chlorine Benefits to Plants « Dyna-gro Blog
also check the links at the bottom of this article (which is from a nutrient maker).

 

[spacef]

I have not read anything about freezing water to remove chlorine but it sounds like it would work ?

Sounds to me like the chlorine will not have the time to evaporate (from a closed container in a freezer ,,) and will remain stuck in the ice or in the container until that ice melts .

I think that way only because I make a parralel between this, and the release of methane from the melting ice at the north of our planet due to global warming (siberia for a well known exemple, but scientist also find gaz is the ice they study in the north poles). This methane is old and was stuck in the ice... but now that the ice melts, the methane is released and available and can still be harmful to the atmosphere (if i remeber well the news i've read about that). Viruses and bacteria also survive long periodin the ice.

Sounds logic ? I am not a scientist.

 

[spacef]

But it would work if chlorine is seperated from the water because of the ice (ie, it concentrates and remains stuck somewhere in the air in the bottle , meanin, you have to leave room in the bottle for gaz to seperate from water).

 

[spacef]

If I simply put bottles and other containers on my balcony to collect rain, during a few days, 1 week may be, would I need to filter the water after that ?

I suppose that, during this time, and as the bottles will stay open (reverse bottle, cut the bottom) water is not the only thing they collect: leaves from trees (with all the diseases they can have) , seeds of various invasive weeds, insects etc (it's february, but my bilberries are already flowering, wether is warm for february) . I can't use a special collector because the ones i found look too big for my balcony, or would not reach where the rain is available

Can you boil rainwater to clean it ?


Thanks !

 

[Auggie]

Why is it so important to remove clorine from the water?
When my res's get to smelling funky - I actually PUT clorine bleach in them (very, very small amt) and it fixes it.

If you are not using organic nutes (another question: why is that better? answer: its not) it has no ill effects on your girls, and will actually keep root rot away.

~ Auggie ~

 

[Canresearcher]

I have read that fluoride is radioactive , well part of fluoride is, its made up of dozens of toxic chemicals , I watched a program some years ago that uncovered in the late 50's or early 60's fluoride was marketed by the owners of chemical factories as a way to get rid of its toxic waste while getting Rich.

Myself I have read that chlorine takes 24hrs to evaporate off its surface if it is exposed to the air, like in a large pan or the bottom of a bathtub.
Also read that using a bubbler for 24hrs will clear it , with intense aeration.

But I personally would like to see the tests or check myself for the chlorine levels before and after aeration to feel safe about it, its to easy to be mislead by people who were mislead themselves. A test is the only way to know.

I may buy a chlorine ppm meter in the future , they are from the same family of meters that test for salt levels in sea water and phosphorous & nitrate levels in fresh water. they are not a hard meter to get your hands on.

There are multiple issues with what is being described here.

1# Fluorine is a halogen gas, it is non-radioactive , it is however fortunately very reactive which makes it easy to bond with 99% of all members of the periodic table. In tap water it is present in a salt called CaF2 or Fluorite. It is 100% non-toxic. It is present in most rocks naturally. (H3O)2SiF6 or Hexafluorosilicic acid is long gone in the water after being added to a water treatment facility as it reacts with Ca,K,Na,Fe, etc to form Fluorides which are inert. HFSA breaks down into HF (hydrogen fluoride the moment it is added to water) a secondary reaction occurs forming inert salts.

2# Chlorine is a bit more concerning as it is NOT nearly as reactive a fluorine, and if present in tap water can cause problems for mycorrhizae in soil mixes or hybrid grow mediums. Heating the water will eliminate the Chlorine via off gassing.
A brita water filter will also help as well.

 

[LEDBud]

Hey guys I am going to try to answer all your questions best I can Spacef , Auggie , canaresearcher and everyone else concerned with their water quality.

Chlorine will kill 99% of the living biology in the water , when you water with this chlorine or chloride water it will kill some of the beneficial microbes and "soil animals" in the soil.


Although you will not kill every organism using city water you will kill some. If you doubt me you should watch video or whatnot and find out how toxic city water is to microorganism and even us mammals.


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
@canaresearcher

One of the side effects of chloride is it removes the lead from lead pipes and makes it available to you in your drinking water.
Reverse osmosis water is Popular because of this and all of the mentioned issues, Do you think ALL those people are wrong.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I am not the voice for this topic there are lots of videos to learn from , pick your source.

If you disagree with my outlook its o.k water with city water.

I am just passing on information and do not have all the answers.


Soil animals

Soil animals graze on populations of bacteria and fungi as well as ingest and break up litter to increase soil respiration. Microfauna are made up of the smallest soil animals. These include nematodes and mites. This group specializes on soil bacteria and fungi. By ingesting these organisms, carbon that was initially in plant organic compounds and was incorporated into bacterial and fungal structures will now be respired by the soil animal. Mesofauna are soil animals from 0.1 to 2 millimeters (0.0039 to 0.0787 in) in length and will ingest soil litter. The fecal material will hold a greater amount of moisture and have a greater surface area. This will allow for new attack by microorganisms and a greater amount of soil respiration. Macrofauna are organisms from 2 to 20 millimeters (0.079 to 0.787 in), such as earthworms and termites. Most macrofauna fragment litter, thereby exposing a greater amount of area to microbial attack. Other macrofauna burrow or ingest litter, reducing soil bulk density, breaking up soil aggregates and increasing soil aeration and the infiltration of water.[7]




Rhizosphere respiration

The rhizosphere is a zone immediately next to the root surface with its neighboring soil. In this zone there is a close interaction between the plant and microorganisms. Roots continuously release substances, or exudates, into the soil. These exudates include sugars, amino acids, vitamins, long chain carbohydrates, enzymes and lysates which are released when roots cells break. The amount of carbon lost as exudates varies considerably between plant species. It has been demonstrated that up to 20% of carbon acquired by photosynthesis is released into the soil as root exudates.[4] These exudates are decomposed primarily by bacteria. These bacteria will respire the carbon compounds through the TCA cycle; however, fermentation is also present. This is due to the lack of oxygen due to greater oxygen consumption by the root as compared to the bulk soil, soil at a greater distance from the root.[5] Another important organism in the rhizosphere are root-infecting fungi or mycorrhizae. These fungi increase the surface area of the plant root and allow the root to encounter and acquire a greater amount of soil nutrients necessary for plant growth. In return for this benefit, the plant will transfer sugars to the fungi. The fungi will respire these sugars for energy thereby increasing soil respiration.[6] Fungi, along with bacteria and soil animals, also play a large role in the decomposition of litter and soil organic matter.


I wont even get into the added Fluorides and the toxicity of but it is and should not be in our water.

 

[LEDBud]

I will update the thread with a photo of my current grow and 2nd time watering with rain water , its new to me, but Damn it works well.

Update

I give partial credit to the Rain water , I add calcium magnesium and Iron directly to it from CaliMagic plus.

The 3 bushy plants are at 6 weeks

My signature has my first grow using rainwater

 

[Canresearcher]

One of the side effects of chloride is it removes the lead from lead pipes and makes it available to you in your drinking water.
Reverse osmosis water is Popular because of this and all of the mentioned issues, Do you think ALL those people are wrong.

I'm not sure what you read in the previous post?

What I was explaining is that Chlorine is a problem for mycorrhizae in the soil. If your city water has lots of Cl2 you can have issues. As far as Pb in water is concerned, very seldom unless you live in developing world countries, Pb pipes are long since gone. 99% of all pipes are either Copper or PVC fortunately.
Lead becoming bio-available generally occurs with its oxides and in metal form in acidic environments ( most of the time associated with contaminated ground water in wells), and this can bio-accumulate in bone tissues, as do most heavy metals.
You're completely right however on the chloramines in potable making Pb more bio-accumulative.

 

[LEDBud]

You will have to excuse me on the lead pipe description as it was a error , It should have been written the lead solder used to join the pipes is released by chloride. Currently in America its a BIG problem. Frightening really and its only being used to save money with water purification.

I am going to check my local waters treatment system / method here in Canada and see if they are cheeping out and using chloride.

I will go to a city hall meeting and complain if it is. Word.


Sometimes posts get edited and make the following post seem out of place. Sorry you did not find that post you quoted useful.



Straight rain water and Calimagic+ in a time release pro mix , week 10 and a week after a 90% defoliation.

 

[NoobGrowUtube]

Hey LEDBud! Great page!

I noticed in your first pic on the second page your using what looks to be MarsHydro Led 300w and an hps lighting with cool tube at the same time? What wattage?


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[NoobGrowUtube]

Hey LEDBud! Great page!

I noticed in your first pic on the second page your using what looks to be MarsHydro Led 300w and an hps lighting with cool tube at the same time? What wattage?

Wondering cause I have the MarsHydro 300w and waiting on Apollo horticulture Digital Ballast 600w hps to arrive. Trying to figure out how to alternate these during flowering. Should I be using them at the same time 12/12. Or something like having one turn on for 6hrs then the other each day. For a 12/12. Tent is 36" x 24" x 53". Low stress and flux (mainlining) training.


Sent from my iPhone using 420 Magazine Mobile App

 

[LEDBud]

Hey Thanks NoobGrowUtube , I was using the cooltube for a bit at first , then I ditched it and used the panels for the bigger spread



I am using a 400w bulb in a multi-bulb 400 ,600 1000w ballast and the old Mars 100x 3w panels

The plan is to surround the plants with light , Now the plants are bigger I will put the Cooltube back up , this time vertical and pointed toward the front of the plants.

Then move the two front panels to each end to give the plants 360* of light.

That's the Plan anyways . Its the first time trying this method so the light arrangement may well change to suit.

With your 36" x 24" x 53" space I am thinking the 600w would work exceedingly well in the 6 sq.ft space , it works out to 100w a foot.
That's about as excessive and good as it gets really and about twice what is needed..

With a healthy garden , the yield increases proportionately to the watt output used per sq.ft , special care such as increased nutrient uptake should be monitored or you could drive the plants into the ground.

Which I suspect rarely happens as most people over fertilize by habit.

You could use the Apollo for flower and the Mars to pre Veg the next set. , would be smooth..
The Mars would fit well enough in the 2'x3' for veg then buy a 3'x3' tent for the 600w = $

a 3'x3' tent would be 66w sq.ft with the 600 perfect really.

Its easy to spend other peoples money for them!! , ha.

But.. I really do like the sounds of 100w sq.ft , it would BLAST the plants with light ,whip whip ..GROW

 

[NoobGrowUtube]

Thanks for the advice. I'll give you the updates. Check my grow so far in my sig.


NoobGrowUtube DWC AK48 Fem First Grow And Journal 420 Magazine

 

[LEDBud]

See you there

I'm back as your link is not linking , there is a option on the top icons of the message box to add a link , try that.

I copied and pasted the title in the search function , I should be there shortly. / Back nothing turned up.

One more time .. / edit: found my way there

 

[NoobGrowUtube]

NoobGrowUtube - 42 Magazine(11853342) on Vimeo[/QUOTE]

Is this one good? LEDBud I'm doing this from my phone.

 

[LEDBud]

I found my way , Hey NoobGrow you have a good start on her , She is a branchy Giurl !

I'll see you there