Custom Feed Chart PPM & EC FAQs And Advice

[Ossi Ossi]

howdy to all
ok so as the pic indicates the feed chart that is the easiest for me to use and understand.
Currently day 40/10 so I'm still around 850 - 900 ppms till week 3.
MY QUESTION is
I make up a 20 litres mix of juice every 3 rd. day. I give the girls 750 mls each only once every 24 hours.
so I use my tank water always and it comes at at 10ppm 30 ec
so I measure every ingredient by ppm and ec
I give 200 ppm of Cal/mag/nit.
I give eco seaweed and 20 go go juice.
then I give them NITROSOL up to 500 -600 ppms
1 Tablespoon of Molasses to the 20 litres, so anyway I end up around 900 - 1000 ppms(bit high I know but they lo9ve it I think)
so being day 10 of flip I still haven't had any indication of any males ) fingers crossed)
I have for the first time a bottle of Canna PK 13/14 QUESTION,WHEN DO I START USING IT AND AT WHAT RATE ETC
they are very healthy girls and my 2mx1.2 room is full with all 7 in there as you can see in pics
I would love to use a net but my set up I have to actually manually take from room and feed , wait 15 mins put them back Question: can I put a net on but the remove it at feed time each feed ??????.
my ph has been constant 5.8-6 no higher ever and i have my 20 litres drum with a bubbler 24/7 QUESTION is it ok to keep my juice bubbling or is it a bit over the top (see pic)
QUESTION can you see the leaves in last 2 pics , however they seem to be the older leaves more so.
so any input would be the bees knees aye
stay safe all

 

[bluter]

did you use a typewriter ... ? is this the internet ... ?

looks like there's something up with potassium / ph / roots / watering at first glance. if you are soil i'd ph a bit higher.
you are watering a lot. check out how to water a potted plant in my sig. or follow the link

pots look a bit small to be supporting plants that size to me as well. look like an up pot would be an idea.

@Emilya do you wanna take a run at this ? i think we need someone decent with soil here.

 

[Emilya Green]

I agree with @bluter, there is a problem here, maybe several.

First, looking at your plants I note the yellowing at the top, indicating an iron deficiency. Some of your leaves are really beat up looking, and I am leaning toward that bit of the problem looking like a fungus infection... are the leaves yellowing and spotting all over the room? Is it spreading to the other plants?

I think you need to follow a regular feeding program with any good set of nutes. Whatever you are mixing up, is not cutting it. If you are working in soil, you are adjusting your fluids pH as if you were in hydro. Something is wrong, but we don't have enough clues yet to tell you what to do but we do know that you are watering way way too frequently... and because of this your lower roots appear to be in trouble and your plants have no lift as a result. You are also watering and feeding constantly, as a hydro grower would do it. Are you coming to this soil grow after first running hydro systems or have you been taking most of your advice from a hydro person? Soil needs to be run completely differently than you are doing and most soil growers do not concern themselves with ppm... it just confuses the issues, since we generally feed soil at a much higher rate than we do a hydro system.

 

[Ossi Ossi]

did you use a typewriter ... ? is this the internet ... ?

looks like there's something up with potassium / ph / roots / watering at first glance. if you are soil i'd ph a bit higher.
you are watering a lot. check out how to water a potted plant in my sig. or follow the link

pots look a bit small to be supporting plants that size to me as well. look like an up pot would be an idea.

@Emilya do you wanna take a run at this ? i think we need someone decent with soil here.

im in coco perlite
i cannot fit anymore in room and i didn't

did you use a typewriter ... ? is this the internet ... ?

looks like there's something up with potassium / ph / roots / watering at first glance. if you are soil i'd ph a bit higher.
you are watering a lot. check out how to water a potted plant in my sig. or follow the link

pots look a bit small to be supporting plants that size to me as well. look like an up pot would be an idea.

@Emilya do you wanna take a run at this ? i think we need someone decent with soil here.

ph is never over 6 i sit at 5.85-5.95 consistent as stated from my typwriter
so i dunno if you having a dig or a crack mate.
i water them at 6am every morning 750 mls just before lights out.
tbh mate you didnt answer 1 of my questions
dont bother again

 

[Ossi Ossi]

I agree with @bluter, there is a problem here, maybe several.

First, looking at your plants I note the yellowing at the top, indicating an iron deficiency. Some of your leaves are really beat up looking, and I am leaning toward that bit of the problem looking like a fungus infection... are the leaves yellowing and spotting all over the room? Is it spreading to the other plants?

I think you need to follow a regular feeding program with any good set of nutes. Whatever you are mixing up, is not cutting it. If you are working in soil, you are adjusting your fluids pH as if you were in hydro. Something is wrong, but we don't have enough clues yet to tell you what to do but we do know that you are watering way way too frequently... and because of this your lower roots appear to be in trouble and your plants have no lift as a result. You are also watering and feeding constantly, as a hydro grower would do it. Are you coming to this soil grow after first running hydro systems or have you been taking most of your advice from a hydro person? Soil needs to be run completely differently than you are doing and most soil growers do not concern themselves with ppm... it just confuses the issues, since we generally feed soil at a much higher rate than we do a hydro

im in coco perlite
i cannot fit anymore in room and i didn't


ph is never over 6 i sit at 5.85-5.95 consistent as stated from my typwriter
so i dunno if you having a dig or a crack mate.
i water them at 6am every morning 750 mls just before lights out.
tbh mate you didnt answer 1 of my questions
dont bother again

hi emilya

i ruled out fungus fffhheewww
im in coco perlite 50 50 im following all the rules isee on here
ph 5.85-5.95 without fail,im using the trudgeon method
im running my ppms ecs etc almost works every feed
i feed at 6am every morning 500 mills around the centre to the walls of the pot for root direction then 30 minutes later i put another 250 mls on them and bac in room for bed at so i feed 750 mills every 24 hours and your telling me thats to much,the tubs are ligfht mate so i disagree with the watering side of things im sorry however my runoff ec was thru roof today but anyway i will fix that..
i hope this is easy enuff to understand i tried to answer your questions and quotes
cheers

 

[Ossi Ossi]

I agree with @bluter, there is a problem here, maybe several.

First, looking at your plants I note the yellowing at the top, indicating an iron deficiency. Some of your leaves are really beat up looking, and I am leaning toward that bit of the problem looking like a fungus infection... are the leaves yellowing and spotting all over the room? Is it spreading to the other plants?

I think you need to follow a regular feeding program with any good set of nutes. Whatever you are mixing up, is not cutting it. If you are working in soil, you are adjusting your fluids pH as if you were in hydro. Something is wrong, but we don't have enough clues yet to tell you what to do but we do know that you are watering way way too frequently... and because of this your lower roots appear to be in trouble and your plants have no lift as a result. You are also watering and feeding constantly, as a hydro grower would do it. Are you coming to this soil grow after first running hydro systems or have you been taking most of your advice from a hydro person? Soil needs to be run completely differently than you are doing and most soil growers do not concern themselves with ppm... it just confuses the issues, since we generally feed soil at a much higher rate than we do a hydro system.

 

[Ossi Ossi]

look guys if anyone is going to respond can you please read and answer the questions in the start of my post
i do appologise i dont think i said 50/50 coco perlite.
i think my plants are very healthy,however i will take onboard everyones opinions but read the whole thing before you comment

 

[Ossi Ossi]

did you use a typewriter ... ? is this the internet ... ?

looks like there's something up with potassium / ph / roots / watering at first glance. if you are soil i'd ph a bit higher.
you are watering a lot. check out how to water a potted plant in my sig. or follow the link

pots look a bit small to be supporting plants that size to me as well. look like an up pot would be an idea.

@Emilya do you wanna take a run at this ? i think we need someone decent with soil here.

and in my post i stated im day 10 of flower anbd yes i asked how to use the canna pk 13/14 which will help with my NPK needs i am thinking , if im wrong then i can look at other ways
i am only giving 500 ppms of npk the rest is seaweed,mollassis,cal/mag/nit 200 ppms so theres 700 straight up

 

[Ossi Ossi]

this morning after the only meal they get at 6am

 

[Ossi Ossi]

I agree with @bluter, there is a problem here, maybe several.

First, looking at your plants I note the yellowing at the top, indicating an iron deficiency. Some of your leaves are really beat up looking, and I am leaning toward that bit of the problem looking like a fungus infection... are the leaves yellowing and spotting all over the room? Is it spreading to the other plants?

I think you need to follow a regular feeding program with any good set of nutes. Whatever you are mixing up, is not cutting it. If you are working in soil, you are adjusting your fluids pH as if you were in hydro. Something is wrong, but we don't have enough clues yet to tell you what to do but we do know that you are watering way way too frequently... and because of this your lower roots appear to be in trouble and your plants have no lift as a result. You are also watering and feeding constantly, as a hydro grower would do it. Are you coming to this soil grow after first running hydro systems or have you been taking most of your advice from a hydro person? Soil needs to be run completely differently than you are doing and most soil growers do not concern themselves with ppm... it just confuses the issues, since we generally feed soil at a much higher rate than we do a hydro system.

hi Emilya
I owe you an apology, I think you might be right on the fungus issue.
The pic actually looks worse than the condition of that particular plant.
all leaves are as normal , all new growth is fine but this stain or fungus has showed up on a couple of the girls , not in a massive way but still you may be right,its not lock out surely.
I did up the ph. to 6.05 on the money ppms 950 ec 1475,seems ok to me of my limited understanding of the EC
I gave 750 mls each again the smorning,the tubs are definitely light weight and in need of food
so I've adde3d a pic of 1 leaf this morning and i removed probs 10 leaves over 3 girls.
cheers for help

 

[Ossi Ossi]

if its iron deficiency what are your thoughts on treatment

 

[Emilya Green]

if its iron deficiency what are your thoughts on treatment

Try different points in the pH range to see if you can better pick up Fe at other spots, such as 5.8 pH or even as low as 5.5 so you slide up through the entire range.

 

[Ossi Ossi]

Try different points in the pH range to see if you can better pick up Fe at other spots, such as 5.8 pH or even as low as 5.5 so you slide up through the entire range.

ok i will give that a try but these girls have had nothing below 5.8 ever
so i will start tomorrow at 5.5
so how many feeds do i give at each ph level , only 1 feed or 2 and so on

 

[Emilya Green]

Try it and see how they respond. You may have more of an upward drift than you realized and you may find that with your particular situation, your water and nutes, that coming in at the low end works a whole lot better. Experiment... but telling me you have always been at the high end elicited a knowing nod from me... you can't get different results without trying something new.

 

[Ossi Ossi]

i still cant seem to get an answer to my questions in my post!
i need to know when to add canna pk13/14 and amounts etc
do i need to post elsewhere to get some answers ???

 

[Emilya Green]

i still cant seem to get an answer to my questions in my post!
i need to know when to add canna pk13/14 and amounts etc
do i need to post elsewhere to get some answers ???

Sorry, I wasn't trying to be rude but I don't use those nutes, so I can't answer your questions as far as amounts go.... but typically PK supplements are given toward the end of bloom, when the building buds need a lot more P and K than they ever did.

 

[Ossi Ossi]

Sorry, I wasn't trying to be rude but I don't use those nutes, so I can't answer your questions as far as amounts go.... but typically PK supplements are given toward the end of bloom, when the building buds need a lot more P and K than they ever did.

yea cool i totally understand what your saying
i did see a post that suggested starting in 3rd week and 4th week of Bloom lightly then weeks 5 & 6 agressive weeks 7 & 8 back off to 0 then weeks 9 & 10 flush no nutes etc
i know that my pk are lowish in my nutes as i am organic so i guess i will just suck and see
however if my girls are not liking my introduced pk levels what do i look for in the plant as a SIGHN
i hope that makes sense
cheers and many thanks for your help thus far

 

[Emilya Green]

if my girls are not liking my introduced pk levels what do i look for in the plant as a SIGHN

signs of lockouts and deficiencies... and depending on what it is, that can give you a clue as to what is out of balance.

i did see a post that suggested starting in 3rd week and 4th week of Bloom lightly then weeks 5 & 6 agressive weeks 7 & 8 back off to 0 then weeks 9 & 10 flush no nutes etc

A typical grow only has 8 weeks of bloom and if you have a longer running plant you tend to stay in the middle to late bloom nute levels until 2 weeks until the end of the grow. That bit at the end, where you call week 9 and 10 a flush with no nutes... that totally makes no sense given what we now know about these plants. Yes, in the 1960's that was the recommended way to grow these plants, by starving them at the end. Now we know better. We have examined why organic grows, where the nutes are in the soil all the time and are not removed at the end, are so much better in taste and quality than other plants, and we finally realized it had to do with feeding the plants right up to the chop. We now know that in the last two weeks the buds are finishing out, adding the THC and the flavor profiles as well as the time when the buds can double in girth and weight. It makes absolutely no sense to starve the plants of nutrients at the end, when they need even more nutrients than ever before.

So here is how I treat an 8 week bloom cycle when using nutes. First, I don't start bloom on the day of flip... they are still vegging at this point and for another 7-10 days. I am still giving veg nutes during this 7 day transition and then during the first week of actual bloom, while they are starting to stretch. The second week of bloom is when I give my first bloom nutes, reducing the N a bit. I give all the basic bloom nutes they can handle until week 4, making sure they are getting a small amount of additional p and k. Week 5 and 6 I get more aggressive with the P and K, and then week 7 and 8 I start backing off on the base nutes a bit, while keeping up with the P and K and I keep this up during the last two weeks as the buds are finishing out. If I have a longer running plant, I just keep running the week 5 and 6 program until I get to the actual last 2 weeks, and then move to the week 7 and 8 strategy.

 

[Ossi Ossi]

signs of lockouts and deficiencies... and depending on what it is, that can give you a clue as to what is out of balance.


A typical grow only has 8 weeks of bloom and if you have a longer running plant you tend to stay in the middle to late bloom nute levels until 2 weeks until the end of the grow. That bit at the end, where you call week 9 and 10 a flush with no nutes... that totally makes no sense given what we now know about these plants. Yes, in the 1960's that was the recommended way to grow these plants, by starving them at the end. Now we know better. We have examined why organic grows, where the nutes are in the soil all the time and are not removed at the end, are so much better in taste and quality than other plants, and we finally realized it had to do with feeding the plants right up to the chop. We now know that in the last two weeks the buds are finishing out, adding the THC and the flavor profiles as well as the time when the buds can double in girth and weight. It makes absolutely no sense to starve the plants of nutrients at the end, when they need even more nutrients than ever before.

So here is how I treat an 8 week bloom cycle when using nutes. First, I don't start bloom on the day of flip... they are still vegging at this point and for another 7-10 days. I am still giving veg nutes during this 7 day transition and then during the first week of actual bloom, while they are starting to stretch. The second week of bloom is when I give my first bloom nutes, reducing the N a bit. I give all the basic bloom nutes they can handle until week 4, making sure they are getting a small amount of additional p and k. Week 5 and 6 I get more aggressive with the P and K, and then week 7 and 8 I start backing off on the base nutes a bit, while keeping up with the P and K and I keep this up during the last two weeks as the buds are finishing out. If I have a longer running plant, I just keep running the week 5 and 6 program until I get to the actual last 2 weeks, and then move to the week 7 and 8 strategy.

every single word from start to finish made so much sense I now have enough to play with for a while that maybe my next grow i might have a go in soil i never have tbh
cheers aye awesome read