First Journal And First Time In Coco

[Sativa1970]

Yea sorry man having a little though weekend when my ladies aint above happy I know its a learning curve but still, and thanks for the answer, I think I will pass at least a day of fertigation cause some of them show overwatering stress. Just smoke, smoke, smoke repeat. Enough about me how is your weekend going and how are you.

Most of the problems people have sprout from over tending. Relax and just pay attention when they tell you they need something. Burning there failed attempt at reproduction in front of them just asserts dominance.

 

[mkultra999]

13/12
So whad up boys, its been 12 days sins pop and see progression on the roots and growth but one seems to be droppy but what ever, reading the run-off seems a little stress full because of the weird outputs + a litte burn on the tips on 2 plants. So yesterday did a 150ml flush with a 6.6PH / 0.02 E.C and then a watering from 6.1PH / 0.70 E.C till a good run-off for measuring which ended good with a 5.9-6.3PH / 0.37-0.43 E.C . So today did use the same water but did read around INPUT 6.0PH / 0.75E.C , OUTPUT 5.7-5.8PH / 0.29-0.41E.C.

Stage: Seedling days old 12 Days +/-
Lights: 75W light cycle
Temperature: 68.00°F-86.0°F/ 20°C-30°C
Relative Humidity: 60-70%
Watering Run-Off: 5.8-5.9PH / 0.29-0.41 E.C with a %15-20 run-off.

Love

 

[Sativa1970]

How close are you running your lights now? When you get more stem than leaf growth, the plant is telling you it wants more light. Unlike water and nutrient there is no such thing as too much light for these plants. They will just turn the extra light into growth using more nutrient and water. The only concern with more light is physical temperature burning the plant. Let the light hit the back of your hand at different distances for 30 seconds. It should feel like the sun on a summer day. Around 8 to 14 inches at 75wats.

 

[mkultra999]

Its been around 4 days +/- last update

Yesterday did a transplant they are little droopy of overwatering + Little shock the reason is I worry too much but thats how I am LoL. Still on the roller coaster and I am in love, Cause after the grow we get a orgasm together. Coco is the way to grow indoors

As always
Thanks in advance
Any advice/Or questions can be given.

Extra Love to Sativa1970 and Tkmk, Bill284
Stage: Early Veg 16 Days +/- days old
Lights: 150W light cycle 20/4
Temperature: 65.3°F-69.0°F/ 18.5°C-20.5°C
Relative Humidity: 60-70%
Watering Run-Off: 5.8-6.1PH / 0.42-0.59 E.C with a %15-20 run-off. But first a R.O flush 100-120ml, then the transplant took place.
Substrate: 100L, 26.417 gallon Coco / 20L, 5.283 gallon Perlite, the top layer 5% is most perlite.

 

[mkultra999]

My apologies bro I saw your post today thanks for the message,

How close are you running your lights now?

I switched from 24 to 18/6 then there was no electricity for +4 hours that maked me angry asf ( 3 days after switch from 24 )and switched and now I am on a 155W around 20DLI for plants 20/4 cycle now. they are around around 27 inches from the light if I get too close then the DLI calculation strikes too much up.

When you get more stem than leaf growth, the plant is telling you it wants more light. Unlike water and nutrient there is no such thing as too much light for these plants. They will just turn the extra light into growth using more nutrient and water. The only concern with more light is physical temperature burning the plant. Let the light hit the back of your hand at different distances for 30 seconds. It should feel like the sun on a summer day. Around 8 to 14 inches at 75wats.

Does the DLI not matter? Can I get as much Watt and close too the plant unless it isnt too hot?

Thanks for the reply / Thanks in advance
Smoke, Smoke, Love, repeat

 

[Sativa1970]

My apologies bro I saw your post today thanks for the message,

I switched from 24 to 18/6 then there was no electricity for +4 hours that maked me angry asf ( 3 days after switch from 24 )and switched and now I am on a 155W around 20DLI for plants 20/4 cycle now. they are around around 27 inches from the light if I get too close then the DLI calculation strikes too much up.

Does the DLI not matter? Can I get as much Watt and close too the plant unless it isnt too hot?

Thanks for the reply / Thanks in advance
Smoke, Smoke, Love, repeat

My statement is a bit out of context now that you have switched lights. It would be near impossible to light burn a plant with the 15 wat light you were running. Up to 45 wats can stay within inches of the plant. 50+ wats you start getting in to the stronger UV and the physical radiated heat becomes the first issue. The LED itself wont get hot but the radiant heat will heat the surface it hits. As long as the surface of the leaf is not exceeding 90 deg you are good.

(short answer)
With the bigger light you are at a good distance.

(Long horticultural answer)
Most plants, as you increase the light they increase productivity to a point then plateau. Continuing to add light has no more positive effects until it starts doing damage to the leaf. Shade loving plants plateau early, sun loving plants plateau later. Cannabis is the freak of nature exception to that rule. It never plateaus. It dose require the supporting conditions to process that light. So technically it is never too much light, it is not enough supporting environment for the light. Food, water, temperature, circulation, vascular transportation and CO2 are your DLI limiting factors. Temperature, vascular transportation and CO2 are the main factors that limit DLI in a home setup. As you increase light you start get diminishing returns that are not worth the cost of keep up with the environmental factors.

 

[mkultra999]

Stage: Seedling days old 19 Days +/-
Lights: 150W light cycle 20/4
Temperature: 63°F-67°F/ 17.2°C-19.4°C
Relative Humidity: 60-75%
Watering: 6.0PH / 0.8 E.C = 400ppm. Not much, first time for all five plants around 650ML/ 22.87 Oz and then 12 hours later a good spray with sprayer (lol)

They are drooping, didnt get much growth some one has burn look and they droop, one has also new growing leaf a black spot. Does anyone know what it could be? I tried to solve it but couldnt here is what I think it is. My guess is overwatering/underwatering, underferting, or a nute-lock out. Can I get a run-off in big pot/small seedlings ?

Thanks in advance
Any advice/(Or) questions can be given.
Here goes some pics MAaAAaaaAAaaAaan

 

[Sativa1970]

Temp is a little low so they are going to be slow. You want temps in mid 70s to 80s Fht. .8 EC is a bit high for such a young plant in drain to waste hydro. You want closer to half that strength. When you water you always want run off in drain to waste. Without run off you will get nute build up. You need a fan circulating air across the top of the pot to prevent fungal growth.

Raise the temp, Flush with PHed cal/mag water and 1/4 strength (.2EC) of nute until you run off half the volume of your pot. 1 gallon pot, collect a half gallon of water in your tray under the pot. Plenty of air circulating over the media and plant. They should perk up and start growing 48 hours later.

 

[mkultra999]

Temp is a little low so they are going to be slow. You want temps in mid 70s to 80s Fht. .8 EC is a bit high for such a young plant in drain to waste hydro. You want closer to half that strength. When you water you always want run off in drain to waste. Without run off you will get nute build up. You need a fan circulating air across the top of the pot to prevent fungal growth.

Raise the temp, Flush with PHed cal/mag water and 1/4 strength (.2EC) of nute until you run off half the volume of your pot. 1 gallon pot, collect a half gallon of water in your tray under the pot. Plenty of air circulating over the media and plant. They should perk up and start growing 48 hours later.

Sup man
You know I now feel kinda dumb to switching to coco I couldive been doing synthetics in place of organics but whateva So you say flush but arent thebabys gonna drown more ? and I am gonna get the temps up light on fullll for some heat, thanks for the informations. Thanks in advance

 

[Sativa1970]

You are using 100% coco media, right? Did you add anything to the media or was it premixed with perlite, vermiculite, or any organic composts? If there are no organics you can sterilize and switch to sterile synthetic. As long as it is 100% coco, temps are up, and you have plenty of air flow the media should dry quickly. Once a leaf is damaged it will not heal. The key is to promote new healthy growth to take its place.

 

[mkultra999]

You are using 100% coco media, right? Did you add anything to the media or was it premixed with perlite,

Did use some perlite 10/2 g ratio I think I am overwatering a litte bit but I am scared of the salt built up and it is %100 synthetic.

vermiculite, or any organic composts?

No

As long as it is 100% coco, temps are up, and you have plenty of air flow the media should dry quickly.

Trying to get the temps up but its a bit of a problem cause is the cost of electricity, the light are now on 225 watts and a small heater for now and a fan blowing the air.

Once a leaf is damaged it will not heal. The key is to promote new healthy growth to take its place.

I did mean that I used too grow with organics and fuck things up and cause it is a slow release you cant really flush it but I did fuck the water bill around 250+ and did get a crap yield . (3 organic grow) ,(1 synesthetic grow) that was a better run with the final product but still crapp yield (again) cause of a error in the run. Should've thinked better and ran a synesthetic one with the right knowledge ( no fertigation, only water hole life cycle), but still coco is the way to grow. But we ill see.

Regards
MK

 

[Sativa1970]

I got you and another person confuse when I responded. Scrolled back up to look at the pics and I can clearly see the perlite. Perlite holds water so yes that makes a difference. Your media should be dry every couple days if your temp and air circulation is correct. Temp in low 80s and a fan gently moving the stems will lower the RH, drying out the media. They are just starting to take up nutrient from the roots. If the soil is already saturated I would fix the air first.

I may be misunderstanding but it sounds like you are trying to mix media, nute and grow styles. It can be done but not an easy starting point.

Organic soil is a slow release of nutrients over time as microbes break down nutes so they are available to the plant. Microbes are the cooks preparing the plant food. So you have to plan ingredients in advance. You can add ingredients or synthetic nutrient but it is hard to remove nutrient.

Coco is drain to waste. You are running nutrient water past the roots in waves. Generally synthetic nutes are used because it is available for the roots to absorb immediately. No need for it to be metabolized by microbes first. As the water passes through it caries the excess nutrient the plant didn't use from the last feeding out the bottom of the pot. Like clearing the leftovers from the last meal off the table with the new meal being served. Too many leftovers on the table from not pushing enough new food/water in and there is no room for new plates. You flush with water and cal/mag as a daily vitamin to clear the table. Between the meals air fills the voids (empty plates). Roots absorb the air and bad bacteria, like root rot, can not live in an oxygenated environment.

Water culture is where the roots live in water there entire life. The water is filled with a lot of nutrient like a non stop, all you can eat buffet. Air is pumped into the water to kill any invading bacteria and let the roots breath. Like a Las Vegas casino. You have to periodically dump and refill the reservoir. When they eat all of the one or two items off the buffet you scrap it all and put out a fresh new one.

 

[mkultra999]

I got you and another person confuse when I responded.

Can I take it as a complimented

Scrolled back up to look at the pics and I can clearly see the perlite. Perlite holds water so yes that makes a difference.

And is making it easier to flush the media. I agree

Your media should be dry every couple days if your temp and air circulation is correct. Temp in low 80s and a fan gently moving the stems will lower the RH, drying out the media.

Trying to maintain the a good VPD but is needs too high electricity which bothers me the most ( trying to get a hopefully good crop cause I am a smoker, but the love is still there thankfully. )

They are just starting to take up nutrient from the roots. If the soil is already saturated I would fix the air first.

*Coco, Yup I have some problems with watering cause I am a little scared of salt buildup and underwatering trying too work on it.

I may be misunderstanding but it sounds like you are trying to mix media, nute and grow styles. It can be done but not an easy starting point.

Can you explain more pls .

Organic soil is a slow release of nutrients over time as microbes break down nutes so they are available to the plant. Microbes are the cooks preparing the plant food. So you have to plan ingredients in advance. You can add ingredients or synthetic nutrient but it is hard to remove nutrient.

That why organic for me is a no go.

Coco is drain to waste.

And that why I love coco.

You are running nutrient water past the roots in waves. Generally synthetic nutes are used because it is available for the roots to absorb immediately. No need for it to be metabolized by microbes first. As the water passes through it caries the excess nutrient the plant didn't use from the last feeding out the bottom of the pot. Like clearing the leftovers from the last meal off the table with the new meal being served. Too many leftovers on the table from not pushing enough new food/water in and there is no room for new plates. You flush with water and cal/mag as a daily vitamin to clear the table. Between the meals air fills the voids (empty plates). Roots absorb the air and bad bacteria, like root rot, can not live in an oxygenated environment.

Thanks for that.

Water culture is where the roots live in water there entire life. The water is filled with a lot of nutrient like a non stop, all you can eat buffet.

Love that.

Air is pumped into the water to kill any invading bacteria and let the roots breath. Like a Las Vegas casino. You have to periodically dump and refill the reservoir. When they eat all of the one or two items off the buffet you scrap it all and put out a fresh new one.

So you say flush is necessary . ( which I agree with but thanks for the information )

Should I also water too run-off in big pots ? and water again in few days when its ready again ?

Thanks in advance man

 

[mkultra999]

Stage: early veg (slowed) days old 21 Days +/-
Lights: 175W light cycle 20/4
Temperature: 67.28°F-69.44°F/ 19.2°C-20.9°C
Relative Humidity: 60-75%
Watering: 6.2PH / 0.65 E.C = 325ppm. around first 100ml R.O then the fertigation around Oz 42.23-49.27 /1.2-1.4l didnt got any run-off that for the next time just trying too get oxy to my babies.

They seem to me underfed cause of the yellowing of the lower leaves or a overwatering problem. Here goes a pici:
They have perked after light on

Thank in advance / Thanks
Regards
Ultra
MARIUJUANA

 

[mkultra999]

Coco is drain to waste. You are running nutrient water past the roots in waves. Generally synthetic nutes are used because it is available for the roots to absorb immediately. No need for it to be metabolized by microbes first. As the water passes through it caries the excess nutrient the plant didn't use from the last feeding out the bottom of the pot. Like clearing the leftovers from the last meal off the table with the new meal being served. Too many leftovers on the table from not pushing enough new food/water in and there is no room for new plates. You flush with water and cal/mag as a daily vitamin to clear the table. Between the meals air fills the voids (empty plates). Roots absorb the air and bad bacteria, like root rot, can not live in an oxygenated environment.

Let me ask the thing I dont quite understand, is there a special calculation? So if I get 0.2 e.c as a run-off am i good and get 0.8 e.c bad no matter how high or low e.c going in /scale 400ppm .
Thanks in advance

 

[Sativa1970]

Are you asking, Is there a calculation for EC in VS EC run off? Not a specific calculation for in vs out but more of an indicator. If your run off is higher than what you feed you have a build up of extra minerals. That is an indicator that you need to lower your EC or if way too high flush. If your run off EC is lower than feed it shows how much your plant ate. If your EC is a lot lower you need to feed more solution not higher EC necessarily.

Like the analogy of the plates coming off the table when new ones come in. Your run off is the old plates. High EC shows they are full and not eating much food. Vary high shows they dumped some of the new food on the old plates leaving to get rid of it. Too much food. Low EC they ate most everything on the plate is good. Vary low EC they are licking the plate clean because they are hungry. Don't mound more food on the plate with high EC, give more plates (water/nute) with the same amount of food EC to push out the empty plates.

For example; When watering with .8EC your first run off should be around .2EC. As you keep testing run off it will slowly rise until you get .8EC run off. That is when you have watered enough. Pushed out all of the old mix and replaced with new.

 

[mkultra999]

Stage: early veg (loved) days old 24 Days +/-
Lights: 175W light cycle 20/4
Temperature: 67°F-72°F/ 19.4°C-22.2°C
Relative Humidity: 55-80%
Watering: 6.0-6.1PH / 0.5 E.C = 200ppm. 2-2.5l / 2 days before and they have been exploding the next 1 day cycle but one has dark spotting and yes I have been overwatering. I think it is a calcium defency but that cant be it or my bet is on PH-fluctuation. Any advice or help can be given, but its weird that they need a litte nute.

Love my girlies

 

[mkultra999]

And congratulations on Christmas

 

[Sativa1970]

Testing your ph and ec in and out will give you an indication of what is happening in the media. Perlite adds voids that hold water then air so it will take longer to complete the wet to dry cycle. If you are only using coco, perlite, and synthetic fert there is no slow reliece of nutes or pH so you can flush the media if needed. Old low leaves will yellow and die naturally.

I started soaking this seed 2 weeks ago. She is 8 inches wide now. This is the effect of warm Temps. Using more power to heat but saving power with shorter grow time. Quicker veg then drop the temperature, cut back the light hours for the cheaper flowering power demands.

 

[mkultra999]

Sup boys didnt post for a while but here we are
Stage: Veg, 6.2 weeks +/- alive

Lights: 300W

Temperature: 67.1°F-72.5°F/ 19.5°C-22.5°C

Relative Humidity: 60-75%

Watering: in going 6.1PH, 0.63 E.C or 252ppm which is 2 days ago from the pics.

The ph/e.c was lower than ingoing, on some plants. The ph seems to get +0.1, +0.3 higher after trying 2 weeks (around 10 fertigations) a low and going lower fertigation which where we at.(watering every 2-6 days and trying to get a good run-off)

Run-off:
5.5PH / 0.36 E.C or 144ppm
the spots develop on this is more with small to no growth.

Run-off:
5.7PH / 0.37 E.C or 148ppm

Run-off:
5.9PH / 0.46 E.C or 184ppm
it started drooping outta no where yesterday

Run-off:
5.9PH / 0.54 E.C or 216ppm





What should I do ? is it nute burn or def?
Thanks in advance