First time grow CFL growth stopped
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
a picture would help a lot... but let me give you some hints just based on what a lot of new growers of weeds do.
do not add extra nutrients until your plant is much older
do not water too often, when you water, soak the soil and then wait for the plant to use all of it before watering again
do not put your plant into too large of a container.
hope to see a picture soon... hope the hints help. --Emmie
do not add extra nutrients until your plant is much older
do not water too often, when you water, soak the soil and then wait for the plant to use all of it before watering again
do not put your plant into too large of a container.
hope to see a picture soon... hope the hints help. --Emmie
You've got 666 posts, you little devil!
- Thread starter
- #4
Thanks for the reply, can't get the photos to upload at the moment, is just started so not to severe just yet, I'm gonna stick with straight water a few days, give them a little more air... mean while until I can get pictures up, a have 6 plants 3 weeks old 3 to 5 inches all different sizes, in a dresser converted grow box, cabinet door for entry, reflective material an the walls, plants are in a 10 inch pot, I simply sewed my seeds like I do when I start my outdoor plants, using 2-65 watt cfls 5200k and 3200k also have a blue, red led full spectrum bulb threw in there over top of the plants... 18/6 light schedule 70°-75° lights on 68°-70° lights off water every 2-3 days it was Goin well until growth slowed drastically a few days ago...
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
sounds like you put them in way too big of containers and you are watering too often and you are already giving nutes. I call that a three'fer!
Teddy Edwards
Well-Known Member
Hi Jonwayne. Here's the link to our photo tutorial:
Photo Gallery Guide - How to Resize, Upload & Post Photos
- Thread starter
- #7
- Thread starter
- #8
- Thread starter
- #9
- Thread starter
- #10
- Thread starter
- #11
- Thread starter
- #12
I just recently got the stuff I need to ph balance my water, is I'm gonna put a divider in my box make it half the size, transplant my plants in smaller individual pots, possibly change my medium, completely, using a mix of potting soul and black dirt that always grows great outdoor but not so much indoor looks like. I've done ton's of research since I started this grow, the soil varies so much from one grower to the next I'm not sure what would be the best for my situation? At firSt I was trying to get off cheap and use the knowledge I already had, since I've done alot of learning and gonna invest more in my grow as I can, I'd like to get all this down pat, and have a harvest every month... any and all help is greatly appreciated!
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
This sounds like a great plan to me! You always want to start in individual containers, and I suggest the solo/beer cups for this early stage, transplanting to a 1 gallon, and then to a 3 gallon, and lastly a 5,7 or 10 gallon container. This successive uppotting will allow you to water the medium correctly, and will allow you to grow a proper root ball. Nutes should not be needed with this uppotting until the beginning of flower. The soil to use is certainly a confusing and individualized decision, and with a rotating perpetual grow you would probably be well served trying to work into having a living organic soil that can be used over and over again and just gets better with each grow. There is a huge learning curve getting to this point however, and it takes a bit of effort to get to the point where your soil is actually alive with micro life... but it can be done, and all evidence in front of me says it is worth the effort. I also think that with a rotating perpetual grow, this would be a very economical way to manage your soil.
- Thread starter
- #14
I just finished the over haul on it, I split the plants up, in solo cups, put a divider in my box now 1/2 the size, added better ventilation, added 2 more bulbs, I'm setting @ 72° 55% humidity... almost have the ph thing down, just waiting on some organic soil now, I think they may turn around. . . Thanks again, I'll add more pictures in a few weeks
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
wow! very good! I see good things in your future!
- Thread starter
- #16
Didn respond well to the transplant, but I think they will come around... the 3 that the transplant didn effect have started back growing a few inches a day. I'm thinking the ph level and nutrients I was giving them was the biggest problem. Got my soil around 6.2, I check it twice daily, give them tap water @ 6.8 when needed witch seems to be every 3rd day... have any good tips to get my humidity up a little it's wanting to stay around 40%? From my research I've read it needs to be between 40-70%, like to get mine in the 50-60% range while in veg...
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
forget the soil pH... it is just stressing you out. Did you realize that there is a different pH at different levels of the container as the water table drops during the wet/dry cycle? Did you realize that 6 hours after you measure your soil pH in one area of the container, it will have drifted away from what you measured? Soil pH is a moving target, and a measurement at the top is meaningless compared to a reading at the bottom. Just make sure that you have your incoming fluids at the proper pH, and 6.8 is too high. It will work while in veg, but as you get near to bloom, that pH will not work at all. 6.5 pH, every time... water or water with nutes... the soil follows that and starts to drift upward from the moment you water. I don't worry about humidity at all... it varies in my house with the weather, as it does outside in nature.
- Thread starter
- #18
Great! Because that's alot of extra work, I'm already working 7 days a week 12 hour shifts, struggling to give them what attention I do anyways lol when I go into flowering I want the lights to be off the 12 hours I'm working. I took this into consideration when I set my timers and I've seen several suggestions on goin into flowering. The question is when I decide to flower can I just add 6 more ours to the 6 that there already off and jump into flowering that way? Instead of 36 hours dark etc. All the other ways I've read about...
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
yeah, the 36 hour thing is rumored to start flower a bit sooner, but if you just switch to 12/12 at whatever end of the clock works for you, they will switch over in 7-10 days. Once flowering actually starts, mark the calendar and start your countdown. Set their daytime to whatever works best for your schedule... my plants have their sunrise at 10pm local time, very convenient for me at the end of the day to get in there and water at sunrise, and as an added benefit, the lights help heat the house on cold winter nights.
- Thread starter
- #20
Awesome... thank you! I'm gonna try and keep these short and bushy. I'm starting on a better box for strictly veg tomorrow, this big one is a pain to accommodate them, I'll just use it for flower. . . You may have saved my first grow and I appreciate that! I'll throw some pictures on here when everything is complete and not embarrassing to look at.
Similar threads
