Mars-Hydro LED Grow Light Discussion

[JCTJ]

I'm looking at upgrading my tent and light to a 4x4 and I am looking at the TS 2000

 

[Ganjagrandaddy]

Will you upgraded to a different size tent, since Mars Hydro doesn't carry 6x6 one. We still have 4x8 in our warehouse.

My attic space is a difficult shaoe to cater for with tents.My plan is to complete the space with thermal insulating bubblefoil to form a sealed box , then cut and velcro openings. I will be using Mylar to cover interior walls too. Tents do not have very good thermal properties but the bubblefoil deflects heat from the roof while maintaining cooler temperature within. Mars could design a great tent with this thermal wrap inside a double lining. No manufacturers are considering thermal layering for temp control yet. We need to keep the heat out in summer and in in winter , tents do both poorly at the moment. No charge for the innovative idea Sara but can i trial the tent .? lol

 

[Mars Hydro]

I'm looking at upgrading my tent and light to a 4x4 and I am looking at the TS 2000

Hi JC, if you are using the light for veg, then one TSW 2000 will be suitable, if you are looking for a light to cover 4x4 during flowering, then the light cannot meet your needs, it can only cover 3x3 space.
We have several options for you:
- Two of the SP 250
- Two of the TSL 2000
- One of the Mars Pro II 320, which is now 20% off
- One of the Mars II 1600, which is now 15% off.
The four options can all help you get great yields for 4x4 area.

Mars Hydro SP 250

• Mars Hydro
• Jun 24, 2019

Mars Hydro Pro II Epistar 320 led grow light

• Mars Hydro
• Jun 18, 2019

 

[Mars Hydro]

My attic space is a difficult shaoe to cater for with tents.My plan is to complete the space with thermal insulating bubblefoil to form a sealed box , then cut and velcro openings. I will be using Mylar to cover interior walls too. Tents do not have very good thermal properties but the bubblefoil deflects heat from the roof while maintaining cooler temperature within. Mars could design a great tent with this thermal wrap inside a double lining. No manufacturers are considering thermal layering for temp control yet. We need to keep the heat out in summer and in in winter , tents do both poorly at the moment. No charge for the innovative idea Sara but can i trial the tent .? lol

Hi Ganja, that is a great idea, I will let the factory knows see if we can do something in the future.

 

[JCTJ]

Hi JC, if you are using the light for veg, then one TSW 2000 will be suitable, if you are looking for a light to cover 4x4 during flowering, then the light cannot meet your needs, it can only cover 3x3 space.
We have several options for you:
- Two of the SP 250
- Two of the TSL 2000
- One of the Mars Pro II 320, which is now 20% off
- One of the Mars II 1600, which is now 15% off.
The four options can all help you get great yields for 4x4 area.

Mars Hydro SP 250

• Mars Hydro
• Jun 24, 2019

Mars Hydro Pro II Epistar 320 led grow light

• Mars Hydro
• Jun 18, 2019

Thanks for the information! I currently have a 32"x32" tent and a better light would be priority right now compared to a bigger tent. Maybe I'll look at grabbing the TSW 2000 and use that for a couple grows in my current tent.

 

[Mars Hydro]

Thanks for the information! I currently have a 32"x32" tent and a better light would be priority right now compared to a bigger tent. Maybe I'll look at grabbing the TSW 2000 and use that for a couple grows in my current tent.

Hi JC, yes, that would be perfect then for the TSW 2000 in your 32x32 tent.

 

[WankirA]

Hey Sara, quick user feedback message if you dont mind indulging me.

I've been looking through a lot of light units for my next purchase in a couple months and I dearly love the sp250 from the first time i saw it but a couple niggles I have with them simply stop me considering purchasing them seriously.

1. The lack of a low power switch

This is a biggie for me and as much as I absolutly love the sp250 units, i've pretty much ruled it out as a contender because of the lack of switch unfortunately.
In my 4x4 space i would need two of the sp250 units to provide proper coverage but if im to spend £500 ish, there is no way i'm taking a scewdriver and voltage meter to sort it so i can use it at half power for veg when a competitor model has h/l power switch or dial as standard.

2. Driver cable length.
This may not play to everyone but i want to mount the driver outside of my space, which means i gotta buy extra leads; but again, if i have to spend 500 quid on lights, i'll be damned if i'm buying leads too. Especially since the orignals will sit and gather dust.

This cable issue is to most light producers to be fair (not just Mh) - one n a bit meter leads are not adequate. EVER!
A minimum 3 meter leads needs to be standard.

Just my tuppence worth (imho)

Do know im not alone with these points, as discussed with a number of members here and friends alike, so perhaps you could feedback these points to the guys n gals in factory too.

Saw a link you posted regarding changing the power setting on the sp250, and if people accept that method, fine.
But for me, i want a switch and a longer lead 'as standard'.

Anyway , just my thoughts.

Oh, also anymore giveaways coming up?

Thanks for listening.

 

[Ganjagrandaddy]

*mutter* ... oops, ... with all due respect to Mr Head, I think I tagged the wrong reply.

Those plants of Ganja's looks particularly great!

Thanks mate. These lights are brilliant so far. had to raise them up a bit now as getting slight burn on 1 lady. Lots of lumens for the girls.

 

[Ganjagrandaddy]

Yea that's what I figured. Yes, I want to put 2 tsl 2000 units in my veg.

They will love you for it. Mote than enough light in veg to cover the space. I think Mars underestimate coverage slightly to avoid false claims or dissapointment but my lights are way better than I thought they could be. Go for it mate , you wont look back

 

[John Wick]

Hey Sara, quick user feedback message if you dont mind indulging me.

I've been looking through a lot of light units for my next purchase in a couple months and I dearly love the sp250 from the first time i saw it but a couple niggles I have with them simply stop me considering purchasing them seriously.

1. The lack of a low power switch

This is a biggie for me and as much as I absolutly love the sp250 units, i've pretty much ruled it out as a contender because of the lack of switch unfortunately.
In my 4x4 space i would need two of the sp250 units to provide proper coverage but if im to spend £500 ish, there is no way i'm taking a scewdriver and voltage meter to sort it so i can use it at half power for veg when a competitor model has h/l power switch or dial as standard.

2. Driver cable length.
This may not play to everyone but i want to mount the driver outside of my space, which means i gotta buy extra leads; but again, if i have to spend 500 quid on lights, i'll be damned if i'm buying leads too. Especially since the orignals will sit and gather dust.

This cable issue is to most light producers to be fair (not just Mh) - one n a bit meter leads are not adequate. EVER!
A minimum 3 meter leads needs to be standard.

Just my tuppence worth (imho)

Do know im not alone with these points, as discussed with a number of members here and friends alike, so perhaps you could feedback these points to the guys n gals in factory too.

Saw a link you posted regarding changing the power setting on the sp250, and if people accept that method, fine.
But for me, i want a switch and a longer lead 'as standard'.

Anyway , just my thoughts.

Oh, also anymore giveaways coming up?

Thanks for listening.

I'm with Wankir, Ms. Sara. Smiles to you Ma'am.
Sending & .

 

[HugePeckerhead]

Hey Sara, quick user feedback message if you dont mind indulging me.

I've been looking through a lot of light units for my next purchase in a couple months and I dearly love the sp250 from the first time i saw it but a couple niggles I have with them simply stop me considering purchasing them seriously.

1. The lack of a low power switch

This is a biggie for me and as much as I absolutly love the sp250 units, i've pretty much ruled it out as a contender because of the lack of switch unfortunately.
In my 4x4 space i would need two of the sp250 units to provide proper coverage but if im to spend £500 ish, there is no way i'm taking a scewdriver and voltage meter to sort it so i can use it at half power for veg when a competitor model has h/l power switch or dial as standard.

2. Driver cable length.
This may not play to everyone but i want to mount the driver outside of my space, which means i gotta buy extra leads; but again, if i have to spend 500 quid on lights, i'll be damned if i'm buying leads too. Especially since the orignals will sit and gather dust.

This cable issue is to most light producers to be fair (not just Mh) - one n a bit meter leads are not adequate. EVER!
A minimum 3 meter leads needs to be standard.

Just my tuppence worth (imho)

Do know im not alone with these points, as discussed with a number of members here and friends alike, so perhaps you could feedback these points to the guys n gals in factory too.

Saw a link you posted regarding changing the power setting on the sp250, and if people accept that method, fine.
But for me, i want a switch and a longer lead 'as standard'.

Anyway , just my thoughts.

Oh, also anymore giveaways coming up?

Thanks for listening.

Everyone has their opinions though to. the power switch is irrelevant to me since the second i plug it in its going on a timer anwyays. The driver part well maybe for him but it don't bother me at all.

 

[Old Salt]

My attic space is a difficult shaoe to cater for with tents.My plan is to complete the space with thermal insulating bubblefoil to form a sealed box , then cut and velcro openings. I will be using Mylar to cover interior walls too. Tents do not have very good thermal properties but the bubblefoil deflects heat from the roof while maintaining cooler temperature within. Mars could design a great tent with this thermal wrap inside a double lining. No manufacturers are considering thermal layering for temp control yet. We need to keep the heat out in summer and in in winter , tents do both poorly at the moment. No charge for the innovative idea Sara but can i trial the tent .? lol

Rather than a 2' X 4' (60 X 120cm) tent, I'd like a 28" - 30" X 5' tent. This will let me reach the back of the tent for plant maintenance. All tents I buy in the future will be 7' tall. A 5' tent would be the minimum height for it's door size, with a 2' extension available.

 

[John Wick]

Everyone has their opinions though to. the power switch is irrelevant to me since the second i plug it in its going on a timer anwyays. The driver part well maybe for him but it don't bother me at all.

Hello Mr. Peckerhead, I believe the switch is for "low to high power", not on and off. That way one could have a veg and a flower switch, like some of the other MH unites.
If you only have one tent it would be a huge plus.

& your way.

 

[Old Salt]

Hey Sara, quick user feedback message if you dont mind indulging me.

I've been looking through a lot of light units for my next purchase in a couple months and I dearly love the sp250 from the first time i saw it but a couple niggles I have with them simply stop me considering purchasing them seriously.

1. The lack of a low power switch

This is a biggie for me and as much as I absolutly love the sp250 units, i've pretty much ruled it out as a contender because of the lack of switch unfortunately.
In my 4x4 space i would need two of the sp250 units to provide proper coverage but if im to spend £500 ish, there is no way i'm taking a scewdriver and voltage meter to sort it so i can use it at half power for veg when a competitor model has h/l power switch or dial as standard.

2. Driver cable length.
This may not play to everyone but i want to mount the driver outside of my space, which means i gotta buy extra leads; but again, if i have to spend 500 quid on lights, i'll be damned if i'm buying leads too. Especially since the orignals will sit and gather dust.

This cable issue is to most light producers to be fair (not just Mh) - one n a bit meter leads are not adequate. EVER!
A minimum 3 meter leads needs to be standard.

Just my tuppence worth (imho)

Do know im not alone with these points, as discussed with a number of members here and friends alike, so perhaps you could feedback these points to the guys n gals in factory too.

Saw a link you posted regarding changing the power setting on the sp250, and if people accept that method, fine.
But for me, i want a switch and a longer lead 'as standard'.

Anyway , just my thoughts.

Oh, also anymore giveaways coming up?

Thanks for listening.

Although Mars Hydro shows the use of a voltage meter, that's not what I use. Voltage will not tell you the light output of the fixture. A light meter app for the smart phone is better way to go. I agree with your point regarding the location of the adjustments. An easily accessible potentiometer is in my opinion the best way to go.

That said, the vast majority of users will never change the factory setting, or move the driver out of the grow area. Mars Hydro made design decisions allowing them to offer these lights to us at what really is a low price. These lights are far better than the competitor's lights of a similar power draw with the dimmable feature. I used one of them for my first four grows. I do urge Mars Hydro to make a light available with the dimming feature. It will probably need a different driver, and the controls. This would add cost for Mars Hydro, and result in a higher cost to the buyer. They already have a kit to move the driver out of the tent. You can use it, or buy the components to do it yourself.

Just for laughs, why don't you cost out the components to build a light with similar specifications. I don't care if you use COBs. light strips, discrete LEDs, or sub-assemblies like the HLG QBs. It will give you a much better appreciation for the bargain Mars Hydro is offering. I've done it, which is why I don't complain too loudly.

 

[WankirA]

the power switch

As JW notes above HPH, i'm meaning a low and high power switch.

I get that what i'm saying here won't bother or affect anyone who has one or those for whom these points dont matter: but at £500 the pair, sorry, in this day & age I expect a low/high power switch, not least cause I can reduce leccy bill for 6 weeks. So frankly, im surprised the designers etc had a conversation along the lines of;

Person 1 "Doesnt this need a low power option"?
Person 2 "NAH! We'll hide a screw in the most difficult area on the driver to access and then make it more difficult by putting a second identical hole for shits n gigs"...!!!

Maybe not exactly like that, but SOMEONE at MH said 'No' to a switch - bad idea! Or even worse, the switch questoon never came up and that is just bad designing.
Its common place even in cheap ass leds that cost 50 quid now, so why not on a unit claiming to be (and charging accordingly) a premium product !?!

And same with the lead, if you are happy to have extentions running into your tent, great. Personally with hot n humid atmos around grows - I want the electrical gubbins outside thank you...


Mars Hydro have a reputation for quality and ive sought to own a (or two) unit of theors since ive known about them.

Well, time to step up and show the quality.. Otherwise they will be seen as 'just another Chinese LED company'.
Nobody wants that.

They make great lightning solutions but I want the best lighting solutions that take all situations where I'm gonna need this light to perform.

Not ragging on you or MarsHydro Sara, just asking if you can see it from the client's perspective.

Just mho.

 

[HugePeckerhead]

As JW notes above HPH, i'm meaning a low and high power switch.

I get that what i'm saying here won't bother or affect anyone who has one or those for whom these points dont matter: but at £500 the pair, sorry, in this day & age I expect a low/high power switch, not least cause I can reduce leccy bill for 6 weeks. So frankly, im surprised the designers etc had a conversation along the lines of;

Person 1 "Doesnt this need a low power option"?
Person 2 "NAH! We'll hide a screw in the most difficult area on the driver to access and then make it more difficult by putting a second identical hole for shits n gigs"...!!!

Maybe not exactly like that, but SOMEONE at MH said 'No' to a switch - bad idea! Or even worse, the switch questoon never came up and that is just bad designing.
Its common place even in cheap ass leds that cost 50 quid now, so why not on a unit claiming to be (and charging accordingly) a premium product !?!

And same with the lead, if you are happy to have extentions running into your tent, great. Personally with hot n humid atmos around grows - I want the electrical gubbins outside thank you...


Mars Hydro have a reputation for quality and ive sought to own a (or two) unit of theors since ive known about them.

Well, time to step up and show the quality.. Otherwise they will be seen as 'just another Chinese LED company'.
Nobody wants that.

They make great lightning solutions but I want the best lighting solutions that take all situations where I'm gonna need this light to perform.

Not ragging on you or MarsHydro Sara, just asking if you can see it from the client's perspective.

Just mho.

I get what's being said. Since I'm very new to growing I guess I overlook these things as I work with what I get and go from there instead of adjusting this and that.

 

[Ganjagrandaddy]

Rather than a 2' X 4' (60 X 120cm) tent, I'd like a 28" - 30" X 5' tent. This will let me reach the back of the tent for plant maintenance. All tents I buy in the future will be 7' tall. A 5' tent would be the minimum height for it's door size, with a 2' extension available.

I think this is the downfall with pre built tents. love all the shapes and sizes available but even the loft dedicated ones are just not fitted enough. This is why i am going with the Insulated sealed box idea as it is attached floor- rafter-apex-rafter-floor. This should deflect any heat off the oustside roof as it is layered and also maintain the attained temps inside the box. The isulated wrap has no real light reflection properties so once sealed and essential openings made , i will mylar inside too. The job is partially completed but need this run to finish ( early sept) so i can finish the build. I know these lights would benefit hugely from the lower reflection that my floppy tent sides waste. I like to be able to get round the backs too. frustrating to attempt to get in and out without breaking limbs when only single sided access.

 

[Ganjagrandaddy]

Although Mars Hydro shows the use of a voltage meter, that's not what I use. Voltage will not tell you the light output of the fixture. A light meter app for the smart phone is better way to go. I agree with your point regarding the location of the adjustments. An easily accessible potentiometer is in my opinion the best way to go.

That said, the vast majority of users will never change the factory setting, or move the driver out of the grow area. Mars Hydro made design decisions allowing them to offer these lights to us at what really is a low price. These lights are far better than the competitor's lights of a similar power draw with the dimmable feature. I used one of them for my first four grows. I do urge Mars Hydro to make a light available with the dimming feature. It will probably need a different driver, and the controls. This would add cost for Mars Hydro, and result in a higher cost to the buyer. They already have a kit to move the driver out of the tent. You can use it, or buy the components to do it yourself.

Just for laughs, why don't you cost out the components to build a light with similar specifications. I don't care if you use COBs. light strips, discrete LEDs, or sub-assemblies like the HLG QBs. It will give you a much better appreciation for the bargain Mars Hydro is offering. I've done it, which is why I don't complain too loudly.

I feel as you do salt. these are a real bargain at the price for the tech of competitors at twice the cost. It does seem very easy to adapt a dialed switch to the driver for the TSL-2000 as the power one is on the top for these. A blob of glue in the screwthread for a bladed small screwdriver to glue to , Voila. turn the screwdriver to the marked setting. I know the others have it underneath but still not too difficult to adapt. Love the results from such a low cost.

 

[Old Salt]

I feel as you do salt. these are a real bargain at the price for the tech of competitors at twice the cost. It does seem very easy to adapt a dialed switch to the driver for the TSL-2000 as the power one is on the top for these. A blob of glue in the screwthread for a bladed small screwdriver to glue to , Voila. turn the screwdriver to the marked setting. I know the others have it underneath but still not too difficult to adapt. Love the results from such a low cost.

A bit of Gorilla Glue, not the plant although that may work for a while, on a plastic screwdriver bit with a knob on the end, and you're done.

 

[Ganjagrandaddy]

A bit of Gorilla Glue, not the plant although that may work for a while, on a plastic screwdriver bit with a knob on the end, and you're done.

hahaha seems we have killed one corporations brand name to be replaced by a strains I.D.lol
Would do the job on a ts. Never thought about heat transfer. doh. lol