Mars-Hydro LED Grow Light Discussion

[Neil74]

The perfect light does not exist yet. But don't worry guys, all Mars series lights will still get the job done for a very fair price.

Data tests are good and show where things can be improved. Thanks 420flyboy.

The perfect light does already exist... some call it the sun.If our meds were treated just as any other crop I doubt there would be many using any thing else.

 

[doobie57z]

I did one grow with a mars2 400w and 200 watts of cfl side lights. short veg for time constraints, got a good 5 ounces of very decent bud. I also left a couple 6400k cfls in the mix. I figure the more mix of light the better.

 

[gudyul]

Hi 420flyboy, thanks for posting your data for the various MH lights.

I did my first grow with the 3W reflectors and was satisfied with the results. However, the data you present will factor in to my decision when I upgrade to another light in the future.

As far as the 'mediocrity' of the MH lights, I can neither agree nor disagree with you...but I certainly see your point. However, many of us are constrained by our budgets and we are simply looking for the best light(s) that we can afford. In many respects, I feel that MH meets that criteria. Your data seem to suggest that this value varies across the MH product lineup.

I would love to see your results (qualitative and quantitative) for the lights that you used in other grows!

Thanks again for the time and expense that you put in to your research.

Go figure... is FB a troll for the competition or is he actually a double agent for MH , using reverse psychology to get folks to buy up the outdated lights. Last week the 1200 was the best mover, now its the old 300 and the failed remote thingee series? All you web crawlers beware of smoke n mirrors... THe 1200 kicks but with both switches on for veg . my firs 1200 had a driver go out but since then I have watched my humidity and the next four 1200 have been running ok without glitch so far..

A few grows back three plants were moved from the 144x5 to under a 1000 sodium. THese three plants ended up looking bigger but not as dank as their siblings which were moved to under 1200 mars. All this was undocumented so take it with salt, if you must, as forewarned in previous verbiage.

I am still mulling over which light or combination of lights to use in a larger commercial grow scenario. I still have a few months to decide and at the rate LED is evolving there could be an entirely new product coming soon. In fact I heard a rumor of Canadian Co that may be sponsor soon. I would be nervous of any new propaganda or parlor tricks and any new product coming out and may end up trying to get a bargain on a container of surplus older(but redder) tried and true lights.

My gut feeling is that FB is on the level and MH needs to add some red
and KISS that remote thingee good bye.

 

[CatfishKnight]

Well Flyboy you were right again about the Remotes don't have to be in the room for the LED lights to work properly. I put it in my kitchen on the other side of the house and they have been coming on and off properly. Like a flash light is brighter with fresh batteries and get dimmer and a weak light as the batteries go down. The first unit didn't go off so I used a weak battery remote, which means a weak Radio Signal to LED Units, to reprogram all 3 units. Then the first and second unit would not shut off on time. Then I would reprogram them again. Finally after a couple of days, I put in fresh batteries and reprogrammed the 3 units and they have been working just fine the last 3 on and off programming cycles. So make sure to have fresh batteries on hand if you're lights start acting up.

 

[Shags]

Go to You Tube and look up Mars Hydro there is a video on testing and replacing theled's and diodes, test and replace as needed. I will assume you sent them a photo of the light on and off, you can see which ones to check and they are installed in a pattern that should be easy to figure out.If you opted to have the parts sent to you, you will be able to repair it, very simple design.

Thanks for the info on the video! I'm gonna get right on that as soon as I type this.. I did send a photo. It looks to me like they did not send enough LEDS to repair the burnt out ones. Some are still lit but the lens is blacked and melted. 20 blue lights have the lens melted or discolored in some way, some are still working with no lens on them at all. Perhaps this explains why there were not enough LEDS sent. The photo shows them "on" but not in fine enough detail to see the damaged lenses. I think we have answered the question. I need to contact Ruby to have more LEDS sent. Thanks again for the video tip..

 

[Stoney Roads]

Go figure... is FB a troll for the competition or is he actually a double agent for MH , using reverse psychology to get folks to buy up the outdated lights. Last week the 1200 was the best mover, now its the old 300 and the failed remote thingee series? All you web crawlers beware of smoke n mirrors... THe 1200 kicks but with both switches on for veg . my firs 1200 had a driver go out but since then I have watched my humidity and the next four 1200 have been running ok without glitch so far..

A few grows back three plants were moved from the 144x5 to under a 1000 sodium. THese three plants ended up looking bigger but not as dank as their siblings which were moved to under 1200 mars. All this was undocumented so take it with salt, if you must, as forewarned in previous verbiage.

I am still mulling over which light or combination of lights to use in a larger commercial grow scenario. I still have a few months to decide and at the rate LED is evolving there could be an entirely new product coming soon. In fact I heard a rumor of Canadian Co that may be sponsor soon. I would be nervous of any new propaganda or parlor tricks and any new product coming out and may end up trying to get a bargain on a container of surplus older(but redder) tried and true lights.

My gut feeling is that FB is on the level and MH needs to add some red
and KISS that remote thingee good bye.

What would you say your humidity was when your modem went and Don you think it was caused by it? Obviously you do but I'm trying to figure out the best temp and Humidity for the light to run

 

[Stoney Roads]

Hello Sara I was looking on your website to see if you had anything about the best operating conditions for your led lights. I know most is common sense but was wondering if a humidity of 70% would damage any of the components? Also if you don't already I would recommend doing some kind of water proofing to your components. I kinda feel with the lights being used for what they are for that should be standard. My buddy has a spectrum King 450 and he can spray it with the hose dunk it in water whatever. I would gladly pay a little more for that feature

 

[noobiegrow]

Updating my first grow with (4) 600w old style Marshyrdo
About how much longer do you guys think I have? 2 months or so? I see trichs forming on the leaves already.

 

[Neil74]

It almost appears that the high humidity is present when leds go out, also as the tents go up for sale the lights tend to go out too.Is it possible that many are buying the tents and worrying about exhaust fans, circulation fans after the damage is done? CatfishKnight built one of the best thought out rooms I have ever seen and he appears to have very little trouble.

 

[gudyul]

What would you say your humidity was when your modem went and Don you think it was caused by it? Obviously you do but I'm trying to figure out the best temp and Humidity for the light to run

My first Mars 1200 i ran very hard 24/7 veg and humidity was up to 80 plus humidity and 90 plus Fahrenheit during the low weather fronts. Light had about 6 months on it ( two grow cycles)when I noticed one square section of diodes had gone out in the corner. I was sent a new DRIVER (black box with circuit board semi sealed inside) and I was able to replace the driver fairly easily and fix prob. I took apart the driver and noticed some blown out chips( photo back somewhere prior to page 1000 of this thread). Looked like condensation had caused a short . Something had caused a short , possible when I switched to on off cycle 18/6 and the temps fluctuated too much ( 90-65) Humidity 80+ , causing water droplets inside driver. I lowered heat in grow room to mid 80ies( more fan cycles) with aux heater keeping temps in mid 70 range at night and thus lowered condensation problems. Only 10 degree fluctuation in temp is best per this thread.
On the other hand,I recently discovered( 10$ temp humidity unit from A-zon) when the weather is in high pressure mode, in my neck of the wood, the humidity drops to 16 ( not so good , possible causing crunchy fan leaves or so I thought. The crunchy leaves could have been a lack of oxygen due to algae and bad air pump diaphragm heating up res. All happening at same time so go figure) and I have to add moisture to the air and try and maintain that 50-60% for veg( wet towels or humidifier). I also reduced light cycle to 18/6 for veg as recommended by MH for the 1200.

My experience is for mediumless RDWC. I see you are using coco so you may have slightly different factors.
Basically 50-60% humidity (at plant level) for veg n 40 for bud. Temps of plant leaves 84 F day/74 F night. Root balls in hydro res 65-70F ( not sure about coco roots temp), higher for seedlings 84F. Bush trim once a month .

 

[Neil74]

Updating my first grow with (4) 600w old style Marshyrdo
About how much longer do you guys think I have? 2 months or so? I see trichs forming on the leaves already.

Looking good, them 600w lights do a very good job. Eight would be a good guess, should be a nice yield.

 

[noobiegrow]

Looking good, them 600w lights do a very good job. Eight would be a good guess, should be a nice yield.

Thank you, I hope the yield is good, seeing as one of the plants is over 65" yes! 5 foot 5 inches tall!

 

[Stoney Roads]

My first Mars 1200 i ran very hard 24/7 veg and humidity was up to 80 plus humidity and 90 plus Fahrenheit during the low weather fronts. Light had about 6 months on it ( two grow cycles)when I noticed one square section of diodes had gone out in the corner. I was sent a new DRIVER (black box with circuit board semi sealed inside) and I was able to replace the driver fairly easily and fix prob. I took apart the driver and noticed some blown out chips( photo back somewhere prior to page 1000 of this thread). Looked like condensation had caused a short . Something had caused a short , possible when I switched to on off cycle 18/6 and the temps fluctuated too much ( 90-65) Humidity 80+ , causing water droplets inside driver. I lowered heat in grow room to mid 80ies( more fan cycles) with aux heater keeping temps in mid 70 range at night and thus lowered condensation problems. Only 10 degree fluctuation in temp is best per this thread.
On the other hand,I recently discovered( 10$ temp humidity unit from A-zon) when the weather is in high pressure mode, in my neck of the wood, the humidity drops to 16 ( not so good , possible causing crunchy fan leaves or so I thought. The crunchy leaves could have been a lack of oxygen due to algae and bad air pump diaphragm heating up res. All happening at same time so go figure) and I have to add moisture to the air and try and maintain that 50-60% for veg( wet towels or humidifier). I also reduced light cycle to 18/6 for veg as recommended by MH for the 1200.

My experience is for mediumless RDWC. I see you are using coco so you may have slightly different factors.
Basically 50-60% humidity (at plant level) for veg n 40 for bud. Temps of plant leaves 84 F day/74 F night. Root balls in hydro res 65-70F ( not sure about coco roots temp), higher for seedlings 84F. Bush trim once a month .

Thanks for the reply. My problem is when the lights go out. I believe I can fix that just by leaving the fans on instead of them going off with the lights.

 

[CatfishKnight]

Hi gudyul. I have 2 air stones going in my 27 gallon nute container. No light can enter to cause alge to grow. Also my water pump inside I put an on/off switch to turn on to water plants then off when done. But I have forgotten to turn off the sump pump and the temperature got into the 90 degrees in the nute tank.

My first Mars 1200 i ran very hard 24/7 veg and humidity was up to 80 plus humidity and 90 plus Fahrenheit during the low weather fronts. Light had about 6 months on it ( two grow cycles)when I noticed one square section of diodes had gone out in the corner. I was sent a new DRIVER (black box with circuit board semi sealed inside) and I was able to replace the driver fairly easily and fix prob. I took apart the driver and noticed some blown out chips( photo back somewhere prior to page 1000 of this thread). Looked like condensation had caused a short . Something had caused a short , possible when I switched to on off cycle 18/6 and the temps fluctuated too much ( 90-65) Humidity 80+ , causing water droplets inside driver. I lowered heat in grow room to mid 80ies( more fan cycles) with aux heater keeping temps in mid 70 range at night and thus lowered condensation problems. Only 10 degree fluctuation in temp is best per this thread.
On the other hand,I recently discovered( 10$ temp humidity unit from A-zon) when the weather is in high pressure mode, in my neck of the wood, the humidity drops to 16 ( not so good , possible causing crunchy fan leaves or so I thought. The crunchy leaves could have been a lack of oxygen due to algae and bad air pump diaphragm heating up res. All happening at same time so go figure) and I have to add moisture to the air and try and maintain that 50-60% for veg( wet towels or humidifier). I also reduced light cycle to 18/6 for veg as recommended by MH for the 1200.

My experience is for mediumless RDWC. I see you are using coco so you may have slightly different factors.
Basically 50-60% humidity (at plant level) for veg n 40 for bud. Temps of plant leaves 84 F day/74 F night. Root balls in hydro res 65-70F ( not sure about coco roots temp), higher for seedlings 84F. Bush trim once a month .

 

[Gnarl E Green]

Well Flyboy you were right again about the Remotes don't have to be in the room for the LED lights to work properly. I put it in my kitchen on the other side of the house and they have been coming on and off properly. Like a flash light is brighter with fresh batteries and get dimmer and a weak light as the batteries go down. The first unit didn't go off so I used a weak battery remote, which means a weak Radio Signal to LED Units, to reprogram all 3 units. Then the first and second unit would not shut off on time. Then I would reprogram them again. Finally after a couple of days, I put in fresh batteries and reprogrammed the 3 units and they have been working just fine the last 3 on and off programming cycles. So make sure to have fresh batteries on hand if you're lights start acting up.

in light of your discoveries maybe the next generation remote should have rechargeable batteries and a charging cradle to set in when not in use. It would always be fully charged and you would know where it is at all times.

 

[CatfishKnight]

in light of your discoveries maybe the next generation remote should have rechargeable batteries and a charging cradle to set in when not in use. It would always be fully charged and you would know where it is at all times.

Luv it! Lol...
Maybe they will do that and we can upgrade to the new style remotes for FREE!

 

[Kriaze]

in light of your discoveries maybe the next generation remote should have rechargeable batteries and a charging cradle to set in when not in use. It would always be fully charged and you would know where it is at all times.

Or for the best change possible they could just scrap the remotes altogether

It's a bit of a case of 'I told you so' for the older followers of this thread, and not in a smug way. There were no issues found with the sun series yet MH insisted on stepping into the higher priced light arena by adding all the bells and whistles which few wanted and not enough actual light. For me it's been a bit of an eye opener as I was always convinced that MH took their customers wants and needs into consideration yet I've already had to buy one light elsewhere (sorry Sarah) as I want IR in my spectrum and I just do not want or need that bloody remote. Not many did, and people stated (yourself included if I remember rightly) that within months we would have faults and issues regarding these remotes. The issues are here already, and there's still a way to go before any hardware faults should start appearing.

Sarah, please arrange something so that these Cree lights can be purchased without the remote, I'll supplement my own IR and UV but I don't want to pay extra for things that I don't need. The sooner you can do this the better for me personally, as at the moment and price range the Pro series has nothing at all to offer in itself let alone against any competitor

 

[CatfishKnight]

I like the remote for the reason of being able to setup a more natural setting of Sunrise and a Sunset. Plus that feature saves on the Electric Bill too.

 

[Kriaze]

I like the remote for the reason of being able to setup a more natural setting of Sunrise and a Sunset. Plus that feature saves on the Electric Bill too.

I can see your point Catfishknight but this could be done onboard the light without the wastage of discharged batteries adding to our long term environmental footprint. A lot of people will have differences of opinions over which light (or bells and whistles for that fact) they prefer. Personally I buy MH because they have a proven track record and customer service which is seemingly decent in the majority of cases. Now consider this, if you were a new grower interested in purchasing would you still be considering spending so much with the last few months posts? As a new grower I would have already run a mile. I'm so happy I bought into them before this change happened

 

[CatfishKnight]

Your right. I would rather have a Control unit display on each Led Unit to set up the time and settings on the individual units for seedlings, mother plant, Veg and blooming. That way we don't have to worry about each stage of growth interfering with another Led Unit.

I can see your point Catfishknight but this could be done onboard the light without the wastage of discharged batteries adding to our long term environmental footprint. A lot of people will have differences of opinions over which light (or bells and whistles for that fact) they prefer. Personally I buy MH because they have a proven track record and customer service which is seemingly decent in the majority of cases. Now consider this, if you were a new grower interested in purchasing would you still be considering spending so much with the last few months posts? As a new grower I would have already run a mile. I'm so happy I bought into them before this change happened