I'm with you - confused
That's nothing like over watering in my book
Looks more like pH drift or mobile nute hungry - CaMg?
Oldmanjj's First Run, Soil
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That's nothing like over watering in my book
Looks more like pH drift or mobile nute hungry - CaMg?
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
lol, growing advice from a soil company. wow. its seems they cant tell you if it is over or under, too long between waterings and have no faith in anything but compost, worm castings, teas and microbes. Everything is a burn to them too... probably wouldnt know a deficiency if it bit them on the toe.
I think you are being led down the wrong path regarding pH and how to manage it. There are people out here giving some really bad and complicated advice when it comes to how to deal with pH in soil and it sounds like you are one of their victims. This statement confirms it for me:
The soil does not call for a specific pH. You should not be trying to influence the pH of your soil by hitting it with opposing pH fluids. The soil should be set to a high pH at the factory, around 7.1... and your soil sounds fine. It is very hard to screw up a good soil. This high pH is where soil needs to be set and it was done so on purpose. So all you got to do to pick up more calcium is to come in at the low end of the pH range with your water and water/nutes, allowing the pH to drift all through the range. Beating on the soil to try to get it to be at a lower base pH within the soil pH range is not the way to do this. But, here I am fighting the popular crowd who tells you that you do not need to pH your fluids and that drift is not necessary... that a buffered soil will take care of all of this for you.
Are you now ready to try a different way, seeing these results? Now that you are running into trouble you might be receptive to doing this the age old tested a million times method of growing in closed containers. Simply come in at 6.3 pH with your fluids and let the buffered soil drift the pH through the entire range as the soil dries out and as the buffers react with your fluids. This is the best way to get the entire pH range into action, picking up each nutrient as it becomes the most mobile. Starting low and letting the drift take you higher also is the way to keep the nutrients within pH range for the longest period of time, therefore making them that much more available to the plants.
You might not really be having a deficiency since the needed nutrient is getting in there... the pH might not be allowing the plant to get to it.
But seriously, I would add some calmag. The damage on your leaves is classic and takes no guesswork, it looks like calcium deficiency.
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- #83
@Emilya I am sorry if I offended you, that was not the point and I greatly appreciate your help. I'm a n00b and I don't know sh.t or even what I don't know, LOL.
LMFAO! Yeah, I see the mistake I made there, they have faith in the soil until something goes wrong, then it's as you said, microbes, worm castings, tea's etc. I agree with your assessment, they don't have a clue.
In this case it does, each bag of soil says to pH the water between 6.5 and 7.0. Doers it make a difference? I don't know, they told me to, they told me to, they told me to. As I said, I don't know sh.t but I can follow instructions.....sometimes
.
After all that, I gave the sick girl a dose of CalMag when I watered her tonight. We will see how it goes. What I found interesting is, she didn't produce any runoff when I checked after a gallon of water, usually she is the first one to show signs. It was in no way overwatered, I checked the soil from 2 knuckles deep at the top and at each drainage hole, she was dry.
Thanks again for all of the help you and others like @StoneOtter @Growings are giving me. I can't accurately express how much it's appreciated. If I missed anyone in the tag, my apologies.
LMFAO! Yeah, I see the mistake I made there, they have faith in the soil until something goes wrong, then it's as you said, microbes, worm castings, tea's etc. I agree with your assessment, they don't have a clue.
In this case it does, each bag of soil says to pH the water between 6.5 and 7.0. Doers it make a difference? I don't know, they told me to, they told me to, they told me to. As I said, I don't know sh.t but I can follow instructions.....sometimes
.After all that, I gave the sick girl a dose of CalMag when I watered her tonight. We will see how it goes. What I found interesting is, she didn't produce any runoff when I checked after a gallon of water, usually she is the first one to show signs. It was in no way overwatered, I checked the soil from 2 knuckles deep at the top and at each drainage hole, she was dry.
Thanks again for all of the help you and others like @StoneOtter @Growings are giving me. I can't accurately express how much it's appreciated. If I missed anyone in the tag, my apologies.
Nine Toed Hippie
Well-Known Member
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Heavens no, you did not offend. I am just here to try to help. You are not the only one to have troubles with pH nor will you be the last. As many will point out, there are many ways to skin a cat and just as many ways to grow this plant. What you read on the bag is a popular belief, but as we have just learned, soil companies really don't know how to grow weeds. I like to think that the old ways are many times the best ways... just think of how many gardeners thought about this over the years and usually, their wisdom holds up. I merely defend the old and established, and tend to reject a lot of the bro science that comes from this new thing called the internet.@Emilya I am sorry if I offended you, that was not the point and I greatly appreciate your help. I'm a n00b and I don't know sh.t or even what I don't know, LOL.
LMFAO! Yeah, I see the mistake I made there, they have faith in the soil until something goes wrong, then it's as you said, microbes, worm castings, tea's etc. I agree with your assessment, they don't have a clue.
In this case it does, each bag of soil says to pH the water between 6.5 and 7.0. Doers it make a difference? I don't know, they told me to, they told me to, they told me to. As I said, I don't know sh.t but I can follow instructions.....sometimes
After all that, I gave the sick girl a dose of CalMag when I watered her tonight. We will see how it goes. What I found interesting is, she didn't produce any runoff when I checked after a gallon of water, usually she is the first one to show signs. It was in no way overwatered, I checked the soil from 2 knuckles deep at the top and at each drainage hole, she was dry.
Thanks again for all of the help you and others like @StoneOtter @Growings are giving me. I can't accurately express how much it's appreciated. If I missed anyone in the tag, my apologies.
TheStickyEst
Well-Known Member
After reading Emilya's watering post I dont even check the soil between watering. I wait until the plant starts to wilt before I give her a drink. She also advised me to ph water to 6.3 and my plant's have looked better since.
I ask, does their advice make sense? I can't prove otherwise. I do know what i see and special watering instructions to end it just don't make sense. I'd go with the calmag and water as usual.
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- #88
Short Update on my sick girl. She's still sick, LOL. I gave her 5ml of calmag with her 1 gallon watering Wednesday night. She will be due for another watering today or tomorrow and she will get another 5ml of calmag. The damage did worsen and I expected that but, for now it's not spreading terribly. It may have been caught quickly enough so part of the plant will survive. The damaged leaves are now dry and crispy. They break off pretty easy. My Recharge arrives Monday and she will also get that. Not sure what else I can do but wait and see. I really think it would be easier to diagnose if they were all doing the same or similar things. All the other plants are looking great.
Reading back a few posts I noticed you having dry soil knuckles deep. I don't think soil should be that dry at this stage of growth. I've caused issues by under watering. Maybe a little top water between soaks to keep things going topside might improve things.
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- #90
@StoneOtter It's possible that they are a little under, or in this case, she is. So far, it's only the one plant out of the ones I have going. I may switch it to an every other day watering as they seem to be requiring more and more water.
Just a thought. Funny how one can be different but they do that.
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- #92
Ok, I'm going to say that one plant was underwatered. She got a gallon Saturday and took another gallon plus last night. They are drinking it up quickly.
My recharge showed up today and I'm planning on giving the sick girl some on the next watering, thoughts? Also, some of the leaves on a few sites are pretty crispy, should those be removed?
My recharge showed up today and I'm planning on giving the sick girl some on the next watering, thoughts? Also, some of the leaves on a few sites are pretty crispy, should those be removed?
I pull them after they are brown and almost pull themselves off. Not the most photogenic but I think the plant is using them up to that point.
Sounds like she was thirsty! Quench that and she'll be more happy! In flower I use Emilya's full ahead watering suggestion to, keep them well fed and watered in flower. That's nice, you grew roots way faster than you figured on that one I think!
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- #94
Monday update:
5 Weeks and 3 days since flip.
Girls are doing ok except for the sick girl, but at least she's not getting worse.
@Emilya I have been trying to do as you suggest and getting the pH of my fluids to 6.3 before watering. I am finding that there may be a problem with my watering bucket. It's a 32 gallon can from home depot with a bulkhead connector, 4 air stones and and pump. I had the water in there pH'd to 6.5 last night. I checked today and the pH was 7.5, WTF. It's a pain in the a@@ but I pH'd the water to 6.3 right before watering by the gallon. I imagine it will take a few watering's to see any positive results. On the Recharge, do you see any harm in adding that at this point? Is it just wasting it at this stage in flower?
My bud's are looking rather small at this point, I sure hope they start to fatten up soon.
Based on the glowing review and simplicity of the GeoFlora nutrients, I will be using that and FF soils on my next run.
Here is the porn:
and a trichome shot from the sick girl:
5 Weeks and 3 days since flip.
Girls are doing ok except for the sick girl, but at least she's not getting worse.
@Emilya I have been trying to do as you suggest and getting the pH of my fluids to 6.3 before watering. I am finding that there may be a problem with my watering bucket. It's a 32 gallon can from home depot with a bulkhead connector, 4 air stones and and pump. I had the water in there pH'd to 6.5 last night. I checked today and the pH was 7.5, WTF. It's a pain in the a@@ but I pH'd the water to 6.3 right before watering by the gallon. I imagine it will take a few watering's to see any positive results. On the Recharge, do you see any harm in adding that at this point? Is it just wasting it at this stage in flower?
My bud's are looking rather small at this point, I sure hope they start to fatten up soon.
Based on the glowing review and simplicity of the GeoFlora nutrients, I will be using that and FF soils on my next run.
Here is the porn:
and a trichome shot from the sick girl:
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Nothing happens instantly in the plant world and everything we do is cumulative. So consistency over time is important and it really does take about 3 complete wet/dry cycles to see a change after making a modification. The Recharge is supposed to start working in 48 hours, and no I don't see any harm in adding microbes to your grow, ever.
Regarding pH... the thing that is getting you is exposure to the air. If you had your water in a vacuum and away from light, you could probably better maintain a pH, but from the moment you adjust it, the calcium and all that in the water starts to react against the acids... also, the co2 in the air is a huge factor and can radically change your pH overnight. PH is not something you can set and then expect it to be the same the next day. Ph adjustments should always be done immediately before applying the fluid to the soil.
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- #96
I sure hope you have strong arms, it's going to take more than that nugget of common sense to knock the n00b out of me
Skunksta
Well-Known Member
Been lurking watching Emilya take you to school , and learning along with you.
You have done a great job pretty sure you said this was first grow or in years.
I killed everything i grew for 18 months well maybe i didnt kill it all but was not worth the time i put into it.
Now your already on the next one.
Growing for me seems to be more additive than the bud.
Seems like you got the bug also now.
You have done a great job pretty sure you said this was first grow or in years.
I killed everything i grew for 18 months well maybe i didnt kill it all but was not worth the time i put into it.
Now your already on the next one.
Growing for me seems to be more additive than the bud.
Seems like you got the bug also now.
Mayne
Well-Known Member
root rot bro. The recharge will definitly help. But like Em said, nothing works over night. that 1 single plant just happened to develop a root problem, it happens, could of been anything.
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- #99
Ok Sense @Emilya I have a question if you can drag yourself out of trim jail! For my next grow, I am planning on trying something different. I will have around 10 plants, no more than 12 and I will be going with @GeoFlora Nutrients for their simplicity. The question is, what size bags of veg/bloom do you recommend? The soil I'm still undecided on. Could be FF (Some combination of HF, OF or SF) or Roots Organic, both are readily available. Thanks!!
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Haven't started working yet.
I suggest an 8 lb bag of each for a 2 month veg and a 2 month bloom. If you combine FF soils, use them as intended. HF is to build roots, so use it for seedlings and in the upper portions of your containers. OF is great for filling the final container with lots of organics and SF is even better. I would try layering the soils, but I would not mix them, so that the roots are able to specialize in each area and take advantage of what is there. Roots organic also has several soils, not a thing wrong with any of them. In a geoflora grow however, the soil is not much of a worry, it just helps the grow to be more better, a term we use here in Missouri, MO better.Similar threads
