Frazer
Well-Known Member
Fucked my times up and had to flush. It's 1 plant, do you you think i could get away with a few days flushing?
Quick flush?
- Thread starter Frazer
- Start date
Good day my friend @FrazerFucked my times up and had to flush. It's 1 plant, do you you think i could get away with a few days flushing?
Your going to get two answers here.
Members who flush will say...............?
But I don't starve my girls when they need nutrients most.
My recommendation would be to feed up until you turn your lights out 36 hrs pre harvest.
She needs nutrients to finish building buds for you.
Don't starve her any more.
Stay safe
Bill
What Bill said!
- Thread starter
- #4
Frazer
Well-Known Member
By my timing she's starting wk 6 but a friend thought she looked further on. I think I should give her another 2wks, what do you think?
It all depends on when the pistils turn brown and you start seeing some amber trichromes. The plant will speak to you.
When all the pistols have turned red and crinkled in she is finished flowering and building buds for you.
Once the are all red check your trics.
Clear/cloudy energetic feeling or cloudy/ amber more relaxed feeling.
Keep feeding until you have the trics you like.
Then let her sit in the dark for 36 hrs then chop her.
Stay safe
Bill
everything depends on how long till harvest. i personally do not flush tho i may skip the nutes on the last watering,,
by the looks of your plant,, with the tips a bit fried,, i might think your plant has been well ferted so far,, perhaps a bit of a reduced amount of fert, which it should be anyway late in flower, for the remainder
as for when to harvest,, checking the trichomes is my only method,, hairs start turning red right away as buds form and expire,, the formation of red hairs,, ah,, theres a memory,, indeed,, the formation of red hairs is continuous thru the maturing process
i have sativa plants that have as many white hairs at day 100 of flower as day 30
be happy and proud of the harvest friend,, never simple to get there,,
by the looks of your plant,, with the tips a bit fried,, i might think your plant has been well ferted so far,, perhaps a bit of a reduced amount of fert, which it should be anyway late in flower, for the remainder
as for when to harvest,, checking the trichomes is my only method,, hairs start turning red right away as buds form and expire,, the formation of red hairs,, ah,, theres a memory,, indeed,, the formation of red hairs is continuous thru the maturing process
i have sativa plants that have as many white hairs at day 100 of flower as day 30
be happy and proud of the harvest friend,, never simple to get there,,
- Thread starter
- #8
Frazer
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #9
Frazer
Well-Known Member
Cheers, nivek. She did get burnt from the led, being to low after a growth spurt. Also a wee bit nutrient damage. Thanks for your help
I see you're running autopots in SOIL.Fucked my times up and had to flush. It's 1 plant, do you you think i could get away with a few days flushing?
So to answer your question no do not flush.
Reason is all nutrients in soil are attached to soil organic matter via chemistry something called CEC or cation exchange capacity which is a measurement of the ability of soil to hold onto nutrients in the soil.
These nutrients are bonded to soil organic matter chemically and are only able to be released or exchanged by microbes, fungi and plants roots via plant root exudate.
Your plants are yellowing due to 3 things going on:
Scenescence
Translocation
Absission
These are a natural process same reason leaves fall off trees.
Do a quick Google on those 3 processes for explanation.
As far as "flushing" soil about the only thing you're doing in container gardening is killing beneficial bacteria and fungi and changing the pH in the rhizospere where all the nutrient exchange is happening.
Flushing or running a bunch of water thru the soil is not beneficial for the plant and I wood argue detrimental to the health of the plant.
Hope that helps.
PlanetJ
Well-Known Member
Get a cleaning product to reset the nutes and clean the rootzone, then just reset reservoir. Im using FlashClean from T.A., but there are others as well. Why starve them when there are better options.
Edit: just noticed you are in soil, works there too.
Edit: just noticed you are in soil, works there too.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
I see a well grown plant that now late in the grow is having a little bit of trouble uptaking potassium and phosphorus.
This exact set of symptoms can be seen over and over again in the forums, where people fail to flush the salts that have been building up all through the grow. Flushing does not mean giving plain water, you should be doing that every other time in soil anyway. Flushing does not mean starving the plant to death at the end. Flushing has always meant, at least till the no flush club showed up, a single setting pouring of 3x the container size of fresh clean water through the soil, so as to flush out the salts that are hindering uptake. Flushing does not kill microbes and fungi or flush all the good stuff out of the soil, contrary to what some believe, and it can't kill you plant. Flushing does not significantly change the ph of your soil and it is not harmful to your plant. Flushing has been around and a cure for exactly what you are looking at, for as long as we have been growing with synthetic nutes in containers. If it really had even a speck of a percentage of hurting our plants, it would be common knowledge not to do it and there would not be any arguments about it. Flushing was the #1 advice given, before anything else, when diagnosing plant troubles... again, until the no flush club came to town.
The most important time to do a soil salt cleaning flush is 2 weeks from the end of the grow, when the plant is in final bud swell and is needing more nutes than at any other time in the grow. Clear the salt from the pipes at this critical time and the plants will dramatically increase the bud size in the last two weeks if given the proper nutrition at the end. Or, you can follow 1960's growing advice and starve your plant for a week or two at the end... we actually believed that was the best way to do it back then. They say that pot is much much stronger today than is was back then, and this is one of the reasons. Now we know that the 2 week starvation was not at all helpful. It makes sense... organically grown pot taught us this, because the nutrition is built into the soil and can not be removed, so the plants get excellent nutrition all the way through to the end.
This exact set of symptoms can be seen over and over again in the forums, where people fail to flush the salts that have been building up all through the grow. Flushing does not mean giving plain water, you should be doing that every other time in soil anyway. Flushing does not mean starving the plant to death at the end. Flushing has always meant, at least till the no flush club showed up, a single setting pouring of 3x the container size of fresh clean water through the soil, so as to flush out the salts that are hindering uptake. Flushing does not kill microbes and fungi or flush all the good stuff out of the soil, contrary to what some believe, and it can't kill you plant. Flushing does not significantly change the ph of your soil and it is not harmful to your plant. Flushing has been around and a cure for exactly what you are looking at, for as long as we have been growing with synthetic nutes in containers. If it really had even a speck of a percentage of hurting our plants, it would be common knowledge not to do it and there would not be any arguments about it. Flushing was the #1 advice given, before anything else, when diagnosing plant troubles... again, until the no flush club came to town.
The most important time to do a soil salt cleaning flush is 2 weeks from the end of the grow, when the plant is in final bud swell and is needing more nutes than at any other time in the grow. Clear the salt from the pipes at this critical time and the plants will dramatically increase the bud size in the last two weeks if given the proper nutrition at the end. Or, you can follow 1960's growing advice and starve your plant for a week or two at the end... we actually believed that was the best way to do it back then. They say that pot is much much stronger today than is was back then, and this is one of the reasons. Now we know that the 2 week starvation was not at all helpful. It makes sense... organically grown pot taught us this, because the nutrition is built into the soil and can not be removed, so the plants get excellent nutrition all the way through to the end.
- Thread starter
- #13
Frazer
Well-Known Member
Thanks man. I'll check it out
DiamondLevelGrower
Active Member
Flushing is for toilets only. Stop starving plants in one of the most critical areas of flowering. Now that plant needs to work on finding nutrients instead of just swelling.
- Thread starter
- #15
Frazer
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the heads up and for frying mine Haha
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
The cations are simply ions of various nutrients and can be held by the soil temporarily so that there is something to give to the plant during the water only cycle. Not all of the nutrients in the soil are in this form, having not yet been processed by the microbes in an organic grow method. The raw nutrients that have become a part of the soil in the composting stage can not be moved unless you dismantle the clumping and gathering properties of the soil itself, so they are safe from the flushing process.
The problem with running synthetic nutes is that salt, the debris left over when the nutrients break free of their chelation bonds, attaches to the CEC too. It takes up valuable spaces in the CEC that should be occupied by nutes and when salt is taking up a significant portion of the storage ability of the soil, the water only pass suffers. Your plant may get excellent nutes on the feed pass but on the water only pass, the CEC cant supply the nutes that are needed.
Luckily, salt is water soluble... it dissolves when you run the flush through the soil, and no longer occupies valuable slots on the CEC. Flushing works. It simply moves the salt off of the playing field so that the nutes can get in.
- Thread starter
- #17
Frazer
Well-Known Member
Cheers. I was only asking
DiamondLevelGrower
Active Member
No ill will intended, I was just stating. My apologies.
Here's how it works and its not temporary waiting for water or we would never have any cations/nutrients in soil because rain water (no charge) would wash them all away. We know that doesn't happen and here's why:
"The clay mineral and organic matter components of soil have negatively charged sites on their surfaces which adsorb and hold positively charged ions (cations) by electrostatic force."
How does that electrostatic force get removed?? This is the question in hand.
Here is the answer with a picture so that everyone understands:
"in the Cation Exchange process the plant’s roots absorb many of the nutrients essential for growth. The process works through the secretion of exudates by the root hairs which contain positively charged hydrogen ions. The hydrogen ions are effectively “traded” (DIFFUSION) by the plant for the positively charged cations of calcium, magnesium, potassium, sodium and trace elements. The plant absorbs 70% of the cations it needs through the cation exchange process..."
I don't make this stuff up I just read the science and make suggestions based on the science. Flushing is BS. aka Bro Science.
Scientific articles for anyone that cares to read and understand:
Cations and Cation Exchange Capacity | Fact Sheets | soilquality.org.au
Plant Feeding By Cation Exchange
More in depth "sciency" version:
AY-238
And some more do you want some more cause there's a LOT more on it:
Soil Management
We should have a discussion on how the mechanism of Diffusion works in relation to root exudate.
Then we will realize how detrimental adding WAY too much water to to the soil solution in the Rhizosphere and the damage done to micro-organisms that are helping with the Diffusion process.
"The clay mineral and organic matter components of soil have negatively charged sites on their surfaces which adsorb and hold positively charged ions (cations) by electrostatic force."
How does that electrostatic force get removed?? This is the question in hand.
Here is the answer with a picture so that everyone understands:
"in the Cation Exchange process the plant’s roots absorb many of the nutrients essential for growth. The process works through the secretion of exudates by the root hairs which contain positively charged hydrogen ions. The hydrogen ions are effectively “traded” (DIFFUSION) by the plant for the positively charged cations of calcium, magnesium, potassium, sodium and trace elements. The plant absorbs 70% of the cations it needs through the cation exchange process..."
I don't make this stuff up I just read the science and make suggestions based on the science. Flushing is BS. aka Bro Science.
Scientific articles for anyone that cares to read and understand:
Cations and Cation Exchange Capacity | Fact Sheets | soilquality.org.au
Plant Feeding By Cation Exchange
More in depth "sciency" version:
AY-238
And some more do you want some more cause there's a LOT more on it:
Soil Management
We should have a discussion on how the mechanism of Diffusion works in relation to root exudate.
Then we will realize how detrimental adding WAY too much water to to the soil solution in the Rhizosphere and the damage done to micro-organisms that are helping with the Diffusion process.
Thanks @bobrown14 great read.Here's how it works and its not temporary waiting for water or we would never have any cations/nutrients in soil because rain water (no charge) would wash them all away. We know that doesn't happen and here's why:
"The clay mineral and organic matter components of soil have negatively charged sites on their surfaces which adsorb and hold positively charged ions (cations) by electrostatic force."
How does that electrostatic force get removed?? This is the question in hand.
Here is the answer with a picture so that everyone understands:
"in the Cation Exchange process the plant’s roots absorb many of the nutrients essential for growth. The process works through the secretion of exudates by the root hairs which contain positively charged hydrogen ions. The hydrogen ions are effectively “traded” (DIFFUSION) by the plant for the positively charged cations of calcium, magnesium, potassium, sodium and trace elements. The plant absorbs 70% of the cations it needs through the cation exchange process..."
I don't make this stuff up I just read the science and make suggestions based on the science. Flushing is BS. aka Bro Science.
Scientific articles for anyone that cares to read and understand:
Cations and Cation Exchange Capacity | Fact Sheets | soilquality.org.au
Plant Feeding By Cation Exchange
More in depth "sciency" version:
AY-238
And some more do you want some more cause there's a LOT more on it:
Soil Management
We should have a discussion on how the mechanism of Diffusion works in relation to root exudate.
Then we will realize how detrimental adding WAY too much water to to the soil solution in the Rhizosphere and the damage done to micro-organisms that are helping with the Diffusion process.
Stay safe
Bill
Similar threads
