Personally, I'm going to stick to smart pots on the swick, until I'm done observing the new 1 gallon plastic pot I set on top.
SWICK Watering Systems: Letting The Plant Water Itself
- Thread starter SweetSue
- Start date
Black Thumbs
Well-Known Member
Thanks for putting this up sue,I went looking on how you did this after reading your last journal but couldn't find it.With this style of watering is there no need to top water at all? And also the pots I'm using are plastic which I have drilled a bunch of holes in the base for water to run out and using canna pro for medium,so will these be fine to use in the swick method?
It could also have to do with a larger surface area wicking the smart pots more evenly, and the plastic wicking more than needed in a given area, but not getting adequate airflow to balance.
Who knows, that's just another random 36thought.
Who knows, that's just another random 36thought.
- Thread starter
- #64
You could be on to something there. The fabric pots wick through the entire bottom and even up the sides. I'm sure you're seeing that in your own grow. The fabric is wet about a third of the way up. The azalea pots Zig and I are using have really big drain holes, which should wick easier.
To avoid watering from the top, mulching and top dressing is needed, or a solid cover crop. Otherwise the top few inches will dry out. That is not optimal. You do not want to water to runoff in this system. In my opinion, top feedings(sst, coconut, aact, fpe, water, whatever) should be given slowly and evenly, making sure to under water. The swick is there for the moisture, we just need to feed the soil.
I was very worried at first about the moisture of the sides on the bottoms of my smart pots. I guess a few of these pots aren't really no till, I have to investigate the soil by hand in a few pots. I need to know what is going on with an unknown (to me) variable.
- Thread starter
- #67
So let's reiterate that. Decrease the volume of the drenches and teas so that you don't get runoff into the reservoirs. The evenly hydrated soil medium will make distribution of those drenches and teas an easier chore for the micro herd. Water slowly and evenly to let it slowly seep into the soil. Let the herd do the rest.
If you're uncomfortable with decreased liquid volume in teas or drenches you can move the pots to an area where runoff can be collected. Be forewarned, these big pots get heavy. Heavy enough that I don't want to move them.
- Thread starter
- #68
The Canna Pro medium, I'm unfamiliar with it. Can you post a link?
Black Thumbs
Well-Known Member
Sorry it's canna terra pro The Ultimate Potting Mix for the Professional Grower | CANNA Australia
It's like a coco medium but with added nutes and perlite.Its my first time using it as I only ever used to grow with grow wool blocks in a perlite/vermiculite medium but that was along time ago.
It's like a coco medium but with added nutes and perlite.Its my first time using it as I only ever used to grow with grow wool blocks in a perlite/vermiculite medium but that was along time ago.
- Thread starter
- #70
Their site says a peat-based mix. That's what we're all using, so I see no reason why it wouldn't work. You have nothing to lose and everything to gain by trying. The plants are so appreciative of being able to source water on their terms.
See if you can get some rock dust for a top dress. Mineralization of the soil can only help and your medium doesn't appear to have any.
Have you planted yet, and if so, how far along are they? We're naturally nosey around here.
Black Thumbs
Well-Known Member
Will have a look to find some
yes I have planted,I have 2 seedlings at 1 week and 3 plants at 3 weeks.My biggest worry is over watering so I added anther 30% or so perlite to my canna terra with the seedlings but being auto plants they are in there 3 gallon pots from seed
The seedlings are malana bomb and northern light and 2 plants are sweet tooth and unsure on the third as the older plant/seeds were given to me
yes I have planted,I have 2 seedlings at 1 week and 3 plants at 3 weeks.My biggest worry is over watering so I added anther 30% or so perlite to my canna terra with the seedlings but being auto plants they are in there 3 gallon pots from seedThe seedlings are malana bomb and northern light and 2 plants are sweet tooth and unsure on the third as the older plant/seeds were given to me
Will have a look to find some
The seedlings are malana bomb and northern light and 2 plants are sweet tooth and unsure on the third as the older plant/seeds were given to me
Sounds excellent soil for SWICK. I'd pay attention to 36grow's advice on rock dust and tea drenches.
ClosedCircuit
New Member
Speaking of Rock Dust...i remember about a month back a few of use realized the basalt we were getting at Buildasoil wasn't that great...Rad I think I'm thinking of you. Anyways, since I have been absent has anyone found it just know any other basalt they would recommend?
All I know it's my local hydro store sells the same New England basalt dust as another basalt dust.
The rock dust I have from Build A Soil looks and feels different.
I think-Doc Bud may have expressed concerns with the basalt. I'm using it anyway (in veg soil and worm bin)
My main, no till, LOS soil is the Build A Soil CC mix.
OG13
New Member
You guys wanting custom sized swicks can build your own using 2x lumber. Simply cut the lumber to length and width and nail together with the boards on edge. Line with heavy plastic and fill with perlite and water. You can make "L" shaped and "U" shaped pretty easily. I use this technique to make drain tables to fit unusual spaces, drain to one corner and a 5 gallon bucket.
OG13
New Member
On another note, any swick users having problems with excess humidity. This seems to be the biggest drawback to me, having all that surface area of wet perlite. I'm a dirt guy, have been for a long time.
I've been using gravity fed drip emitters for years when I travel. I just converted to Blumats. I'm using Doc's gear, do a drench before I leave, "feed" water while I'm gone, and drench when I get back. If you know how much your plants are drinking, you can have the water run dry before you get back, so the plants are ready for the next drench.
I've been using gravity fed drip emitters for years when I travel. I just converted to Blumats. I'm using Doc's gear, do a drench before I leave, "feed" water while I'm gone, and drench when I get back. If you know how much your plants are drinking, you can have the water run dry before you get back, so the plants are ready for the next drench.
No increase in my tent from the swick. I was hoping for a little, but oh well.
- Thread starter
- #78
No sizable increase in my tiny closet either, although it is more humid. I don't have any ventilation system in there, so that makes perfect sense. In researching other SWICKS, this concern appears to be a non issue. I find Blumats an interesting alternative to this method, but more complicated and much more expensive.
It cost me less than $20 to do both of my 7 gallon pots. I could not have done that with Blumats.
This system is beautiful in so many ways:
- inexpensive
- incredibly adaptable to space and pot size.
- useful for individual or multiple pots
- deeper reservoir allows you can leave plants unattended longer
Can anyone add to that list?
It cost me less than $20 to do both of my 7 gallon pots. I could not have done that with Blumats.
This system is beautiful in so many ways:
- inexpensive
- incredibly adaptable to space and pot size.
- useful for individual or multiple pots
- deeper reservoir allows you can leave plants unattended longer
Can anyone add to that list?
ClosedCircuit
New Member
I was hoping for a little boost in RH. But I'll be growing in the middle of the summer so I shouldn't have to worry too much.
Sue, I'm thinking I am going to have to build a swick tray like you said a while ago....I was thinking multiple layers of plastic lining in a wood frame that's a few inches deep to make it waterproof then just dump the perlite in. Would you by chance know if something like pond liner would work or is that over kill?
Sue, I'm thinking I am going to have to build a swick tray like you said a while ago....I was thinking multiple layers of plastic lining in a wood frame that's a few inches deep to make it waterproof then just dump the perlite in. Would you by chance know if something like pond liner would work or is that over kill?
I have a good deal of humidity, but I want it right now and I think I can remove most with my exhaust fans when it's necessary. Have a bunch of small flies. Working on them. Overall I like it so far. 
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