What deficiency is this?

[Regrowth]

So no interest in the variegation diagnosis? I'm pretty confident about it.
Like I mentioned, I'd just bump the MC up maybe, at least to the recommended dosage.
The plants can't uptake nutrients and photosynthesize properly, it's not a lack of K in the traditional sense.

 

[lilnug420]

So no interest in the variegation diagnosis? I'm pretty confident about it.
Like I mentioned, I'd just bump the MC up maybe, at least to the recommended dosage.
The plants can't uptake nutrients and photosynthesize properly, it's not a lack of K in the traditional sense.

I am, but as I've said my other plant shows the symptoms but to a much lower extent, and she is also bigger, which leads me to believe that since the smaller plant showed more symptoms, it's likely nutrient toxicity, that's the way I'm thinking, welcome to correct me if I'm wrong

Like i said I'll post proper pics of the other plant, so you can maybe get a better look....

Its a new strain im growing, cookie gelato, while the other strain (the one more affected) I've been growing for a couple of years (RQS seeds)

 

[lilnug420]

So no interest in the variegation diagnosis? I'm pretty confident about it.
Like I mentioned, I'd just bump the MC up maybe, at least to the recommended dosage.
The plants can't uptake nutrients and photosynthesize properly, it's not a lack of K in the traditional sense.

Here is the other plant, as you can see she also is starting to show signs of not being well

 

[Regrowth]

ya I don't spot variegation on that one. not sure tbh.
looks like a bit of bug damage too maybe?

n the summer i do wet/dry cycles when watering, right not I don't saturate completely as i found they take wayy to much to dry if the soil is saturated when it gets cold, so before i would water 30L per 2 plants, right now 15/20L per watering

some of the wilting makes me wonder if you're not watering enough.
better off to keep the soil saturated when in bloom.

 

[013]

Hey Lilnug!

soil versus soilless…. some grow media materials are totally inert, there’s nothing inside them to sustain a plant. Soilless is merely a place where roots can grow…. IF…. you bottle feed everything plant needs at the right time. Coco coir, peat, perlite, rice hulls, pumice etc- all make great additions to our soil by adding aeration, but they don’t have nutrients for your girls to munch on

to make a true soil those above items needs to be mixed with mulch, rock powders like dolomite lime etc in proper proportions then cooked. Anyway point is for newer folks it’s best to buy a bagged soil from trusted source and start from there.

One of our members (Bluter) grows in hempy which is nothing but perlite, he fertigates (feeds plus irrigate) water and nutrients every day, in flower he fertigates 3 times per day, this is also how coco growers do it, they feed like crazy. If you tried this method with a true soil then you’d drown the plants. Soilless grows need to be fed nutes every day… but don’t ever give them just plain water. For coco coir growers that means their media should never be allowed to dry out…

soilless is considered drain to waste hydro, it means that you set ph in the hydro range of 5.8… whereas for soil ph needs to be set at 6.3 Also soilless chews thru nutes, ya gotta feed every day no matter what and potentially up to 2 or 3 X per day in flower. So yeah, thats kinda the basics for soilless!


Moving on… i could defs be wrong here but believe your plants might have cold or even hot feet. A DIY grate or plant risers to elevate plants above masonry floor could have big impact. Do you have any fans moving air under the canopy?

I’d be curious- ever drop a hygrometer on the floor for temp readings during peak sun and also dead of night? Maybe do same for the wall directly behind the plants. Is there any way to add more air space between plants and wall? It looks like you have a lot of plant biomass clumped together with not a lot of light or airflow getting in between colas

wonder if you can drop better pic of your garden spot and also sides of the grow bag?

setting ph at 6… you are too low for soil range and too high for hydro… Part of your nutrients are being missed, they become unavailable when being out of range. I’d try bumping up to 6.3

theres some pest pressure too, not bad but consider stuff like butterflies, lizards and beetles carry other smaller hitchhikers along. It’s hard to do ipm in flower but spray the crap out during veg and keep up with ipm soil drenches in flower.

even if you grow 6 white widows they are all genetically different, beans from a seed pack or taken straight from 1 bud will never grow batches of identical sisters, that’s why we use clones for testing. 3 fold rule of clone is-it’s always same age, same genetics and same gender as the host it was cut from. Part of what you are seeing is how each individual plant from a family have different feeding needs and will display other unique traits.

10 gallons is tiny for outdoors, part of the deficiencies could be attributed to this. Main reason you never filled out a 7 is that fabric pots are impacted by both air pruning and light pruning. It’s not your fault of course- it’s just what happens because fabric pots are great at what they do for aeration! Anywho for outdoors it’s go big or go home, so I’d defs look at larger bags next time, I’d be in the 20 to 30 gallon range per plant for outdoors

above may sound like criticism but it’s never intended that way, truly hope something here helps improve your success.

you have a most lovely garden setting and your plants are banging spot on!!!

 

[DrDave1956]

Consider the following - plants are classified as "autotrophs" - meaning they feed themselves thanks to photosynthesis and their ability to dump exudates (sugars, starches, protein) into the soil to feed microbial life. So why are you the chef, waiter and busboy for your plants? Why go through that madness with every grow? Metering, measuring, pHing, lifting, dumping, adding, runoff - bleccccch!

Buy Stonington Blend from Coast of Maine along with their organic plant food, fish bone meal, liquid squid and castings and dump the Stonington into a 10 gallon cloth pot. Follow their amendment schedule for 10 gallon pots to the letter and with proper LST, you'll harvest about a pound of some of the best weed you ever enjoyed...no yellowing, no burning, just water and enjoy the grow.

 

[013]

think they mentioned bio-bizz so pretty confident the op is in Europe, if so- they don’t have a fraction of the products we do

 

[DrDave1956]

think they mentioned bio-bizz so pretty confident the op is in Europe, if so- they don’t have a fraction of the products we do

Thanks...didn't read deeply enough. I try to convert as many liquid salt growers as possible ... just can't help myself.

 

[013]

ahh no worries!

Totally agree, imho the only thing that beats soil is… soil in a swick or SIP!

 

[lilnug420]

Hey Lilnug!

soil versus soilless…. some grow media materials are totally inert, there’s nothing inside them to sustain a plant. Soilless is merely a place where roots can grow…. IF…. you bottle feed everything plant needs at the right time. Coco coir, peat, perlite, rice hulls, pumice etc- all make great additions to our soil by adding aeration, but they don’t have nutrients for your girls to munch on

to make a true soil those above items needs to be mixed with mulch, rock powders like dolomite lime etc in proper proportions then cooked. Anyway point is for newer folks it’s best to buy a bagged soil from trusted source and start from there.

One of our members (Bluter) grows in hempy which is nothing but perlite, he fertigates (feeds plus irrigate) water and nutrients every day, in flower he fertigates 3 times per day, this is also how coco growers do it, they feed like crazy. If you tried this method with a true soil then you’d drown the plants. Soilless grows need to be fed nutes every day… but don’t ever give them just plain water. For coco coir growers that means their media should never be allowed to dry out…

soilless is considered drain to waste hydro, it means that you set ph in the hydro range of 5.8… whereas for soil ph needs to be set at 6.3 Also soilless chews thru nutes, ya gotta feed every day no matter what and potentially up to 2 or 3 X per day in flower. So yeah, thats kinda the basics for soilless!


Moving on… i could defs be wrong here but believe your plants might have cold or even hot feet. A DIY grate or plant risers to elevate plants above masonry floor could have big impact. Do you have any fans moving air under the canopy?

I’d be curious- ever drop a hygrometer on the floor for temp readings during peak sun and also dead of night? Maybe do same for the wall directly behind the plants. Is there any way to add more air space between plants and wall? It looks like you have a lot of plant biomass clumped together with not a lot of light or airflow getting in between colas

wonder if you can drop better pic of your garden spot and also sides of the grow bag?

setting ph at 6… you are too low for soil range and too high for hydro… Part of your nutrients are being missed, they become unavailable when being out of range. I’d try bumping up to 6.3

theres some pest pressure too, not bad but consider stuff like butterflies, lizards and beetles carry other smaller hitchhikers along. It’s hard to do ipm in flower but spray the crap out during veg and keep up with ipm soil drenches in flower.

even if you grow 6 white widows they are all genetically different, beans from a seed pack or taken straight from 1 bud will never grow batches of identical sisters, that’s why we use clones for testing. 3 fold rule of clone is-it’s always same age, same genetics and same gender as the host it was cut from. Part of what you are seeing is how each individual plant from a family have different feeding needs and will display other unique traits.

10 gallons is tiny for outdoors, part of the deficiencies could be attributed to this. Main reason you never filled out a 7 is that fabric pots are impacted by both air pruning and light pruning. It’s not your fault of course- it’s just what happens because fabric pots are great at what they do for aeration! Anywho for outdoors it’s go big or go home, so I’d defs look at larger bags next time, I’d be in the 20 to 30 gallon range per plant for outdoors

above may sound like criticism but it’s never intended that way, truly hope something here helps improve your success.

you have a most lovely garden setting and your plants are banging spot on!!!

the thing that is confusing me is you guys say a soiless mix like terra canna needs watered everyday, won't that damage the roots?


as far as i know wet-dry cycles are very beneficial for the root system, why would this be any different in a peatmoss based mix like terra canna compared to soil?


about the water PH, i'll never be able to be super accurate as i use PH drops and not ph meters as i've diched those.... i try to aim for 5.8-6 but i'll never be super accurate....


i have wood under my fabric pots do isolate them from the floor as in summer the floor gets very hot as it's stone.

about more space between the plant and the wall it's not really possible in my current conditions, as you can see i also train the plants a lot to be short because i have a height limit


so, just to confirm, tearra canna professional should be watered every day regardless of how we the mix is? if so i've been doing it wrong these years, then again i can't complain, indoors i pulled 1.2g/w with a shitty blurple and a terrible set-up from just using mega crop, and oddly i didn't have any deficiencies there... then again that was an auto

 

[013]

I never fully grasped the pros and cons of soil vs soiless. It would be nice if you can enlighten me as searching online gives me more questions then Answers


For a grower like me, outdoors, with megacrop,

Going for the highest yields, and wanting as little work as possible around the plants,

I just wanna train my plants, water them with ph adjusted water and that's it, none of that fancy stuff that requires lots time.

Do you think soil would be more suited for me? What pros and cons will i have from switching to soil?


About drying out this mix, are you 100% sure it's bad? I've always done it and never had issues, as per @Emilya Green guide on how to water. I tho that was the way to go, and it seems to have worked well for me I've always developed very strong roots

my response was mostly aimed to your reply to Wastei from previous page where you asked about soil versus soilless…

anyways yes soil and soilless are 2 entirely different things, they look nearly identical but soilless gets treated as drain to waste hydro- so yes hydro rules still apply. Weed roots develop differently, there are soil type roots and hydro or water type roots.

Nope - its not meant to be watered daily but rather it needs to be fed or fertigated daily with nutes plus water… plain water does nothing to help a soilless plant grow…

soilless media should never be allowed to dry out completely, and should be fed to slight runoff each time (10% runoff) Each fertigation washes out part of the old nutes, delivered fresh nutes and the fertigation pulls in fresh oxygen as the nutes move thru the column of grow media.

yup in soil you would drown a plant… but remember soil and soilless are not the same thing

 

[bluter]

One of our members (Bluter) grows in hempy which is nothing but perlite, he fertigates (feeds plus irrigate) water and nutrients every day, in flower he fertigates 3 times per day, this is also how coco growers do it, they feed like crazy. If you tried this method with a true soil then you’d drown the plants. Soilless grows need to be fed nutes every day… but don’t ever give them just plain water. For coco coir growers that means their media should never be allowed to dry out…

i feed once a day in flower. i've never fed multiple times per day.

it's looking like a phos or potassium issue. the plant is dealing with what looks like mites which doesn't help. ph can creep up into an issue if the bottoms get hot. it'll help promote root rot as well, it would have to be pretty pronounced to happen though.

 

[013]

oh crap totally my bad but many thanks for the correction!!!

I’m sorry about that dude, I try to be accurate but sure screwed the pooch on this one.

 

[lilnug420]

What soil do you guys reccomends? Something i can get in the EU

Can i keep still feed the same amount as i do with terra canna in soil (using the calculator)

And what are the main differences i can expect in my grow?

 

[DrDave1956]

What soil do you guys reccomends? Something i can get in the EU

Can i keep still feed the same amount as i do with terra canna in soil (using the calculator)

And what are the main differences i can expect in my grow?

Here's my 2 cents: I used to grow in a 50/50 blend of Peat and Vermiculite buffered with lime and gypsum and I fertigated with GH's FloraGrow series. Each day, I spent at least an hour measuring, mixing and metering the nutes and runoff. That's alot of work over a 4 to 5 month period. I had the good luck of reading an organic growing thread and THAT changed my life. I now use Coast of Maine's Stonington Blend grower's mix - its a base of lobster compost chock full of chitin and it's designed specifically for cannabis - they add glomus interadices to the blend and I've read that it's the only endomycho that pairs directly with cannabis roots, delivering most of the phosphorous during flower. If you're in a 15 to 20 gallon pot, those nutes will last the entire grow cycle. Smaller pots require specific amendments at specific times and you just follow those top dressing instructions. No more mixing, metering or measuring... I live in NYC and our water is just about neutral, so I don't even have to pH the Zero Water I use. Most importantly, I never have deficiencies or plant burn because Stonington seems to be the perfect environment for cannabis.

Unfortunately, I'm not sure if CoM products are available in the EU. If not, I would guess that you can get hold of a premium living soil that is similar to Stonington, so you can break that cycle of hard work and constant deficiencies.

I spent my free time training my last grow and developed a near perfect canopy and a one pound harvest from.a single seed. I highly recommend a change to organics and living soil - the few folks I've convinced to go organic are extremely happy today. Whatever you decide, have the best of luck!

 

[bluter]

Here's my 2 cents: I used to grow in a 50/50 blend of Peat and Vermiculite buffered with lime and gypsum and I fertigated with GH's FloraGrow series. Each day, I spent at least an hour measuring, mixing and metering the nutes and runoff. That's alot of work over a 4 to 5 month period. I had the good luck of reading an organic growing thread and THAT changed my life. I now use Coast of Maine's Stonington Blend grower's mix - its a base of lobster compost chock full of chitin and it's designed specifically for cannabis - they add glomus interadices to the blend and I've read that it's the only endomycho that pairs directly with cannabis roots, delivering most of the phosphorous during flower. If you're in a 15 to 20 gallon pot, those nutes will last the entire grow cycle. Smaller pots require specific amendments at specific times and you just follow those top dressing instructions. No more mixing, metering or measuring... I live in NYC and our water is just about neutral, so I don't even have to pH the Zero Water I use. Most importantly, I never have deficiencies or plant burn because Stonington seems to be the perfect environment for cannabis.

Unfortunately, I'm not sure if CoM products are available in the EU. If not, I would guess that you can get hold of a premium living soil that is similar to Stonington, so you can break that cycle of hard work and constant deficiencies.

I spent my free time training my last grow and developed a near perfect canopy and a one pound harvest from.a single seed. I highly recommend a change to organics and living soil - the few folks I've convinced to go organic are extremely happy today. Whatever you decide, have the best of luck!

it's a good recommend on soil but seriously unavailable except in the states. have only ever seen it once here in canada, and a 15 - 20 gal pot makes it a crazy expensive proposal here when a standard grow pot is 5 gal.

there are piles of good approaches to a water only grow. most folk go LOS and cook their own mixes if they wanna afford to grow.

 

[Roy Growin]

Westland New Horizon is a water-only compost and available in the EU
Super healthy plants, but much slower than I'm used to in coco lol

 

[013]

It really depends on how much you want to tend your plants and what kind of nutes are available…

Both Geoflora and MC are easy to use, easy to learn plus there’s plenty of help available for those products right here… but not sure of their availability across the pond.

 

[bluter]

Both Geoflora and MC are easy to use, easy to learn plus there’s plenty of help available for those products right here… but not sure of their availability across the pond.

geo and mc are just about as hard to source in the eu as the stoningtons. geo is a non starter and finding mc is like hens teeth there. stonington's is totally unavailable there.

 

[Porky82]

Consider the following - plants are classified as "autotrophs" - meaning they feed themselves thanks to photosynthesis and their ability to dump exudates (sugars, starches, protein) into the soil to feed microbial life. So why are you the chef, waiter and busboy for your plants? Why go through that madness with every grow? Metering, measuring, pHing, lifting, dumping, adding, runoff - bleccccch!

Buy Stonington Blend from Coast of Maine along with their organic plant food, fish bone meal, liquid squid and castings and dump the Stonington into a 10 gallon cloth pot. Follow their amendment schedule for 10 gallon pots to the letter and with proper LST, you'll harvest about a pound of some of the best weed you ever enjoyed...no yellowing, no burning, just water and enjoy the grow.

Because I've grown both ways and I find it easier to put 1 spoon of Mega Crop in some water and stir it than the effort that goes into an organic grow!