FrostyBuds
New Member
Not the droopy cotyledons. But good to see the seeds popped!
1000 Watt Water Cooled Grow
- Thread starter KiwiKing
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #62
KiwiKing
New Member
What could be the cause of the droopy cotyledons?
FrostyBuds
New Member
Could just be the plant. I can't see the pic very good but looks more or less like the "droopy" is just a natural curve to the cotyledons. Should be in good shape. How they hanging in there today?
- Thread starter
- #64
KiwiKing
New Member
Haha they are good. Just looked in on em and everything looks to be in order. Right now I am taking apart a window ac unit to build a chiller. Got the idea from budleydoright on this forum.
Oh yeah, I noticed that my night time RH levels are getting up to 70%. I turn the fan off at night...should I correct this to get the RH down?
FrostyBuds
New Member
Try leaving the fan on at night at see what it drops to. I leave my circ fan on 24/7.
Nicademus
New Member
Subscribed. Will be keeping my eye out. The light is serious bizniz. I was thinking about getting one as i am pretty sure i going to have major heat issues in my grow area come summertime. Actually a lot cheaper than i thought they would be.
Nic
Nic
- Thread starter
- #67
KiwiKing
New Member
The booster fan came in today and I hooked it up. Its really not as strong as I was hoping, but it allows me to completely light seal the grow area. Like I said before, the booster fan is only 160 cfm...supposedly 250 boosted, but I am still noticing sucking action on the tent walls. May just have to break down and go to the hardware store and buy one for $50..ouch!!! Doubt it though. This should help with my night time RH. Temps aren't really an issue as they are only 3 degrees or so above ambient.
Yeah they aren't really all that expensive. You can even build a chiller from a window ac unit, which you can find on Craigslist for less that $50 bux. That's what I'm working on right now. I'll post a how-to once I get it figured out.
Yeah they aren't really all that expensive. You can even build a chiller from a window ac unit, which you can find on Craigslist for less that $50 bux. That's what I'm working on right now. I'll post a how-to once I get it figured out.
- Thread starter
- #68
KiwiKing
New Member
***DIY AC Chiller How-To***
I finished the window AC chiller, I got this idea from BudleyDoRight. This is a basic How-To, it is a relatively easy process and shouldn't take someone more than an hour.
Supplies
Window Air Conditioner new or used
Ratchet and Socket set
*If you are going to use this chiller in a nutrient reservoir, I suggest you use a new AC unit or thoroughly clean and disinfect the unit.
***********************************
The first thing you need to do is remove the metal housing from the air conditioner.
Now you are ready to remove the plastic face. Be careful not to remove or damage the temperature probe. This is how you will control the temperature of your rez.
The next step is to remove the fan and fan housing. This step requires some attention to detail, as the fan is connected to the controller and you need to remove both the controller connections and the connections to the motor. You will also need to unhook any wires that are attached to the fan housing.
All these attachments must be removed from the housing ONLY. There is also a wire that is simply connected to the base of the unit. This is the ground wire, you may need to remove this to get the housing off, but will need to reconnect it before you power on the unit.
These attachments label high, medium and low control the fan speed and need to be unhooked, be careful not to damage the controller. These also connect to the motor, the small metal tube, and will again need to be unhooked from the motor, and again from the motor to the fan. Be careful not to remove the wrong wires, neutral and the wire to the power cord need to stay connected, there are also 2-3 wires connected to the motor that are also connected to the coolant tank ( the big one) these stay connected. Basically you only want to remove the connections to the fan so that you can remove it. It would be wise to place plastic covers over any metal wire connectors you may have exposed.....
neutral and power (white)
Now that you have removed and unhooked the appropriate wires, the fan and fan housing can be lifted out. Remove an remaining bolts that are connecting the fan housing to the metal base. All that will remain are the 2 radiator, a small one in the front, a larger one in the in the back, the control unit and the coolant tank.
With the fan removed,carefully lift the small radiator (this will go in your rez) and carefully bend the copper wires attached to the coolant tank to achieve the desired position of the *now* water cooler. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT KINK THE COPPER WIRES My *water cooler* is positioned completely below the the metal housing and off to the side.
Completely submerge the aluminum fins in the rez, put the temperature probe in the water and position the controller for your needs. MAKE SURE THE POWER IS OFF WHEN YOU DO THIS!!! ( I tried to reposition the motor when the power was on, forgetting that I had not covered the metal lead ins from the removed fan wires and got ONE HELL OF A SHOCK). The motor is the round cylinder.
It is advisable that you place plastic end caps over any exposed metal lead ins as well as seal the top pf the cylinder with silicone caulk. A GFCI circuit can also be purchased inexpensively ($15) to plug the power cord into to prevent any accidents.
You are now the proud owner of a new water chiller. Pretty simple huh? Enjoy!!!
I finished the window AC chiller, I got this idea from BudleyDoRight. This is a basic How-To, it is a relatively easy process and shouldn't take someone more than an hour.
Supplies
Window Air Conditioner new or used
Ratchet and Socket set
*If you are going to use this chiller in a nutrient reservoir, I suggest you use a new AC unit or thoroughly clean and disinfect the unit.
***********************************
The first thing you need to do is remove the metal housing from the air conditioner.
Now you are ready to remove the plastic face. Be careful not to remove or damage the temperature probe. This is how you will control the temperature of your rez.
The next step is to remove the fan and fan housing. This step requires some attention to detail, as the fan is connected to the controller and you need to remove both the controller connections and the connections to the motor. You will also need to unhook any wires that are attached to the fan housing.
All these attachments must be removed from the housing ONLY. There is also a wire that is simply connected to the base of the unit. This is the ground wire, you may need to remove this to get the housing off, but will need to reconnect it before you power on the unit.
These attachments label high, medium and low control the fan speed and need to be unhooked, be careful not to damage the controller. These also connect to the motor, the small metal tube, and will again need to be unhooked from the motor, and again from the motor to the fan. Be careful not to remove the wrong wires, neutral and the wire to the power cord need to stay connected, there are also 2-3 wires connected to the motor that are also connected to the coolant tank ( the big one) these stay connected. Basically you only want to remove the connections to the fan so that you can remove it. It would be wise to place plastic covers over any metal wire connectors you may have exposed.....
neutral and power (white)
Now that you have removed and unhooked the appropriate wires, the fan and fan housing can be lifted out. Remove an remaining bolts that are connecting the fan housing to the metal base. All that will remain are the 2 radiator, a small one in the front, a larger one in the in the back, the control unit and the coolant tank.
With the fan removed,carefully lift the small radiator (this will go in your rez) and carefully bend the copper wires attached to the coolant tank to achieve the desired position of the *now* water cooler. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT KINK THE COPPER WIRES My *water cooler* is positioned completely below the the metal housing and off to the side.
Completely submerge the aluminum fins in the rez, put the temperature probe in the water and position the controller for your needs. MAKE SURE THE POWER IS OFF WHEN YOU DO THIS!!! ( I tried to reposition the motor when the power was on, forgetting that I had not covered the metal lead ins from the removed fan wires and got ONE HELL OF A SHOCK). The motor is the round cylinder.
It is advisable that you place plastic end caps over any exposed metal lead ins as well as seal the top pf the cylinder with silicone caulk. A GFCI circuit can also be purchased inexpensively ($15) to plug the power cord into to prevent any accidents.
You are now the proud owner of a new water chiller. Pretty simple huh? Enjoy!!!
Green Utopia
New Member
Medical Marijuana User Electrocuted
Emergency personnel were dispatched to the home of sldunn01 today after friends reported him missing. He was found with a giant grin on his face standing in a pool of 120v water staring at his plants. Friends said he had been shocked by the water chiller before but left it uncovered and near high voltage and water. Further, it was not on a GFI circuit. Fire and Rescue are amazed the whole house didn't burn down.
For reals man - I'm all for the DIY but you're walking a tightrope right there. I'm gonna tune in for this one and hope all works out well cause I love the setup.
Emergency personnel were dispatched to the home of sldunn01 today after friends reported him missing. He was found with a giant grin on his face standing in a pool of 120v water staring at his plants. Friends said he had been shocked by the water chiller before but left it uncovered and near high voltage and water. Further, it was not on a GFI circuit. Fire and Rescue are amazed the whole house didn't burn down.
For reals man - I'm all for the DIY but you're walking a tightrope right there. I'm gonna tune in for this one and hope all works out well cause I love the setup.
- Thread starter
- #70
KiwiKing
New Member
Yeah, I have since put plastic fittings over the metal leads and sealed it with GE silicone 2.
Green Utopia
New Member
Good deal! Throw a GFI outlet on the circuit as well. It doesn't need to be that plug - you can put the GFI anywhere along the line for that circuit breaker and it will trip if any outlet is faulted or grounded. Time and money well spent.
Didn't mean to be negative - I'd just hate to see something really bad happen. You got good stuff going on there.
- Thread starter
- #72
KiwiKing
New Member
Thanks. I need to go to the hardware store tomorrow to get an extension cord so will pick up a gfci while I'm there. I'll add this to the how-to.
- Thread starter
- #73
KiwiKing
New Member
Small update
Just a small update today with a couple pics. Installed the booster fan.
new fan setup. My tent doesn't have the drawstring fittings so the Duct Tape is to keep light out around the intake hose.
4 baby girls
Milky Way by Kiwi Seeds. This is a great little plant...1st to crack, 1st to sprout, and the largest so far.
A quick question about my plants, I guess they are about 3 days old...are they the right size? I've been looking at pics of seedlings and at about a week they seem much bigger than mine currently are. It's been awhile since I've grown, and even then it was outside so I didn't get to observe them like I can now. Just wondering if their size is normal for this age.
Not sure if they can use em, but at about a week I was thinking about feeding with 1/8th nutes and starting my Subculture/molasses regiment.
Just a small update today with a couple pics. Installed the booster fan.
new fan setup. My tent doesn't have the drawstring fittings so the Duct Tape is to keep light out around the intake hose.
4 baby girls
Milky Way by Kiwi Seeds. This is a great little plant...1st to crack, 1st to sprout, and the largest so far.
A quick question about my plants, I guess they are about 3 days old...are they the right size? I've been looking at pics of seedlings and at about a week they seem much bigger than mine currently are. It's been awhile since I've grown, and even then it was outside so I didn't get to observe them like I can now. Just wondering if their size is normal for this age.
Not sure if they can use em, but at about a week I was thinking about feeding with 1/8th nutes and starting my Subculture/molasses regiment.
Green Utopia
New Member
They're lookin fine! And very nice clean setup on the exhaust.
+Reps for attention to detail.
+Reps for attention to detail.
- Thread starter
- #77
KiwiKing
New Member
they are right on track, don't forget to factor things like strains. yours are right on track, i know how you feel, when i had my seedlings that small i too question if they were ok..........
Thanks!
Here's a pic of the chiller in the res. You can see frost on the coolant tubes.
The white crate thing is a plastic laundry basket I use to lift up the pump.
FrostyBuds
New Member
Plants are looking good. Most of the activity at this point is the roots. Your right on track. Nice chiller set up too. Duct work looks nice and clean. Everything is coming together.
- Thread starter
- #80
KiwiKing
New Member
Yeah its in the res. Its 130g of RO water so its very clean, I can't really tell its in their either. I'll try to get a pic but i doubt it b/c its in a closet right behind the tent, and with the plumbing and lack of space, it is very tight. I cant move the tent more than a foot away from the closet b/c of the fresca sol plumbing tubes. I literally have to crawl in there.
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