Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Tell me about your environment, especially low temps at night.
You might try TRIPLING the TEA and using a double feeding of Transplant to get the soil revved up again.
Unless the products were stored in a hot shed or something there is nothing wrong with them.
As to healthy, robust plants....that's kinda the norm with high brix. Let's see if we can figure out what's going on.
What kind of pots are you using?

the low end is no lower than 65-70 at night and the high temps 80-85,

I will try to boost up the tea and transplant.

It was stored in a garage which is 40 low 70 high pending on the season.

using 7 gl grow pots designed for bottom feeding, but have been distributing the feeds 1/3 top and 2/3 bottom since the recharge.

It's not like they are frost less, but all the frost is at the core, very very little out on the sugar leaf.

noticed a little Taco curl on the leaf today. I will try to get some pics.


Graytail, I used 25 lb EWC and didn't add at recharge.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

the low end is no lower than 65-70 at night and the high temps 80-85,

I will try to boost up the tea and transplant.

It was stored in a garage which is 40 low 70 high pending on the season.

using 7 gl grow pots designed for bottom feeding, but have been distributing the feeds 1/3 top and 2/3 bottom since the recharge.

It's not like they are frost less, but all the frost is at the core, very very little out on the sugar leaf.

noticed a little Taco curl on the leaf today. I will try to get some pics.


Graytail, I used 25 lb EWC and didn't add at recharge.

What are grow pots? Do your roots have constantly wet feet?
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

I think that would be very interesting. You'll still need to top water when it comes to Recharge, EWC, fresh soil, etc.

I posted this in the Lab a few months ago
In The Lab

the owner is actually recommending Promix HP to be used in the pots for it's High Porosity

Water-Pot.jpg


I did as you suggested by watering top and bottom. There is perlite in the bottom 2 chambers to an inch or two above the rim. This allows easy over flow of the excess water.
Actually close to a hempy bucket. holes on the aeration edge 2" up.

I fill through the riser tube and I can almost tell by the noise it makes as I fill it's ready to come out the aeration holes.

I have been watering about every 5-6 days, a day or two later the reservoir is empty.

They were kicking ass til a few weeks ago.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Sorry to bring up something new while trying to diagnose HHs plants, good luck bro! Maybe some pics might help?

Doc I've been running out of soil energy in veg, and don't want to repot into bigger than 2gal containers. Any way to make a veg specific mix with a bit more food in it, or is my previously mentioned solution of top dressing with rescue soil, EWC and some Roots good enough?
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

I posted this in the Lab a few months ago
In The Lab

the owner is actually recommending Promix HP to be used in the pots for it's High Porosity

Water-Pot.jpg


I did as you suggested by watering top and bottom. There is perlite in the bottom 2 chambers to an inch or two above the rim. This allows easy over flow of the excess water.
Actually close to a hempy bucket. holes on the aeration edge 2" up.

I fill through the riser tube and I can almost tell by the noise it makes as I fill it's ready to come out the aeration holes.

I have been watering about every 5-6 days, a day or two later the reservoir is empty.

They were kicking ass til a few weeks ago.

Huh.....well, those look kinda cool, but I've never used one. Obviously, you're having root issues and the only variable between your grow and many others are the pots.

Here's one thing I can tell you.....when I bottom water my plants the saucer sucks up all the water in like 5 minutes. If you have standing water for a day or two that is definitely not good for the roots.

And if it's 85 degrees in the grow room, that means the water in that reservoir is probably pretty warm, which means after it's been sitting a day you've probably got a bloom and bathing the roots in warm water....you get the picture.

Cannabis likes dry feet. Keeping the soil about as moist as it is in the bag when you buy it is optimal, but in reality if it doesn't stay too wet for too long and doesn't go bone dry for too long everything will be OK.

But always warm and wet will cause trouble.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Huh.....well, those look kinda cool, but I've never used one. Obviously, you're having root issues and the only variable between your grow and many others are the pots.

Here's one thing I can tell you.....when I bottom water my plants the saucer sucks up all the water in like 5 minutes. If you have standing water for a day or two that is definitely not good for the roots.

Sure sounds like wet feet!

Same for me, bottom feed and the water is all gone within 10 min.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Sorry to bring up something new while trying to diagnose HHs plants, good luck bro! Maybe some pics might help?

Doc I've been running out of soil energy in veg, and don't want to repot into bigger than 2gal containers. Any way to make a veg specific mix with a bit more food in it, or is my previously mentioned solution of top dressing with rescue soil, EWC and some Roots good enough?

Definitely. I don't seem to need to do much of that in veg....but I do feed/water by soaking the entire pot in a bucket. You'll not have energy issues if you do that. Feel free to make the drench a tad stronger if you've got some laggards, but don't do like me and go too hard and get the claw. I got that on my Paki's due to using too much rescue soil. They're still kicking ass, but they could be better.

How long are you vegging for?
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Definitely. I don't seem to need to do much of that in veg....but I do feed/water by soaking the entire pot in a bucket. You'll not have energy issues if you do that. Feel free to make the drench a tad stronger if you've got some laggards, but don't do like me and go too hard and get the claw. I got that on my Paki's due to using too much rescue soil. They're still kicking ass, but they could be better.

How long are you vegging for?

8-10 weeks...in a pretty small pot - face palm. One month in 1/2 or 1 gal pots, then up can into 2 gal. I was mainlining as well, and the three or four toppings in a row really slow the top of the plant down and the roots have plenty time to fill the pot. Then when ready to let her get some height before the flip there just isn't much left down there.

Pretty much leaving that training technique behind. It makes for a real nice canopy and little to no larf, but there are better and faster ways of doing the same thing. So that should help, but I'd still like to know a fix. Some rescue soil mixed in the final veg pot sounds like a good idea.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

8-10 weeks...in a pretty small pot - face palm. One month in 1/2 or 1 gal pots, then up can into 2 gal. I was mainlining as well, and the three or four toppings in a row really slow the top of the plant down and the roots have plenty time to fill the pot. Then when ready to let her get some height before the flip there just isn't much left down there.

Pretty much leaving that training technique behind. It makes for a real nice canopy and little to no larf, but there are better and faster ways of doing the same thing. So that should help, but I'd still like to know a fix. Some rescue soil mixed in the final veg pot sounds like a good idea.

I bet your yield would be the same or better if you topped once and vegged for 6 weeks. I get by with 1 or 2 gallon containers in veg. Green, green, green....no troubles.

But you're definitely pushing it. Even so, your final product is quite stunning.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

I bet your yield would be the same or better if you topped once and vegged for 6 weeks. I get by with 1 or 2 gallon containers in veg. Green, green, green....no troubles.

But you're definitely pushing it. Even so, your final product is quite stunning.

Thanks doc it really is phenomenal smoke, but I'm blowing it in the veg tent. I've been looking at your plants closely and realize I need to take simplistic approach to training. It is without a doubt the weakest link in my chain right now. But I have a bunch of new life, there's always the next plant! Watch out!! If I can get the next bunch of girls into flower all happy - oh damn it's gonna be some fireworks in there.

New lights new genetics new knowledge! I'm psyched as ever.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Thanks doc it really is phenomenal smoke, but I'm blowing it in the veg tent. I've been looking at your plants closely and realize I need to take simplistic approach to training. It is without a doubt the weakest link in my chain right now. But I have a bunch of new life, there's always the next plant! Watch out!! If I can get the next bunch of girls into flower all happy - oh damn it's gonna be some fireworks in there.

New lights new genetics new knowledge! I'm psyched as ever.

Your concept with the pots are great !
There is a container/pot that trims the roots when theynhit the container wall, some have air holes on all ofbthe side walls, theres also a fabric container that will trim off the roots, advantages of these pots ..... More air to the roots and soil like material, runs cooler, runs dryer faster, roots dont spiral around a typical container/pot.
The cooler the feed water the more oxygen it will contain, more oxygen to the roots = happier roots.

Have a good 1
Thebulldog
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey Doc I'm very interested in trying this out. Are you still selling the amendments for ProMix HP, and if so can you msg me with prices?
:passitleft:
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

:bravo:

Quick question for ya doc. When you pick new seeds to plant do you go look for anything special like starting with the biggest ones first or does it not really matter? I have some hurkle and blue dream beans I am going to start tonight but can only pop a couple of each so I have some selection available if it matters :circle-of-love:
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

:bravo:

Quick question for ya doc. When you pick new seeds to plant do you go look for anything special like starting with the biggest ones first or does it not really matter? I have some hurkle and blue dream beans I am going to start tonight but can only pop a couple of each so I have some selection available if it matters :circle-of-love:

I try to choose the largest, spotted ones....but I don't really know why! I guess I just like 'em better?
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Here's your problem!

That's photoperiod stress! That's exactly what I thought you would say....something like that.

Next time have the lights come on the same time, IE 6AM, and change when the lights go off when you "flip." That two hour time difference is what caused your problem. I am 100% positive that's what did it.

Watch and see, next grow if veg lights turn on at 6AM, make sure the bloom lights do the same. If you want your veg lights to turn on at 8am....make sure the bloom cycle also starts at 8 AM.

Problem solved.
I can vouch for the photoperiod stress and 3 the bladed leaves because it did exactly that when I did a severe switch from a 6am start to an 8pm start. I did that because I had too since my veg room had natural light coming in. So on the next run I gave them almost 2 days of darkness and started them at 8 pm after that and I no longer had 3 bladed leaves. Not sure why that works or even a good idea but it worked out fine. GL Mike.

Also Doc.......that grape looks fing amazing!!!!

I want to do a purple that does great in HB, yields well, hits hard, is pest and mold resistant. Am I asking for too much LOL!!!!!! Oh and add easy to grow!!!!


Peace,

Any2
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

I can vouch for the photoperiod stress and 3 the bladed leaves because it did exactly that when I did a severe switch from a 6am start to an 8pm start. I did that because I had too since my veg room had natural light coming in. So on the next run I gave them almost 2 days of darkness and started them at 8 pm after that and I no longer had 3 bladed leaves. Not sure why that works or even a good idea but it worked out fine.


Peace,

Any2

Giving them an extended dark time allow bloom hormones to form, some growers like to use a 24-36 hour dark period to "snap" the plants into bloom. I've never tried it, but it certainly works. I also think it would stress the plant out....but also there would be no photoperiod stress.

If you have to switch the "lights on" time, it's probably a good idea to do it at the beginning of bloom, and use the 24 hour dark period in order to avoid the photoperiod stress. Things just don't come out right when they get that way.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

I try to choose the largest, spotted ones....but I don't really know why! I guess I just like 'em better?

Thanks, I do the same thing but have only done a few grows and the only female I got out of my 5 pack of plushberry was the smallest crappiest looking seed in the pack so I thought maybe I was going about it backwards.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Thanks for the heads up on not changing the start time. I was doing my flip the same day as the post and was going to move the start time up by two hours until I read this :thumb:
 
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