The Munki's Playground

[Xlr8]

Nice harvest Munki - beautiful looking buds. I like to get right in there on those leaves too - right at the petiole if I can.

Mold sucks - I've got a flooding lower level as we speak and it's really got me worried about mold. @#$%$&* mold!

 

[Mr. Krip]

Great work on a great grow and nice harvest, Munki!

I'm looking forward to the smoke report!

 

[Munki]

A personal smoke report may be some time off as I am not using Cannabis presently. I'm currently 40 days clean. My wife has tried it though only 1 small hit at a time. She reports that the high has been mild for her which she likes but quickly causes the eyes to blaze red. I do remember the ojo rojo condition myself. I'm sure a good hit would increase the stoniness. Besides, any weed can use a good cure.

 

[Munki]

congrats Munki

Nice harvest Munki - beautiful looking buds. I like to get right in there on those leaves too - right at the petiole if I can.

Great work on a great grow and nice harvest, Munki!

Thanks for following my grow everyone. I know it did not have any exciting factors to it, but it is another grow under my belt. 4 completed grows that resulted in smokable product. Even when the product is long gone, no one can take these experiences away from me!

Totally worth the time and effort and I'll be proud of this time in my life until the day I die.

to all.

 

[naphtali5725]

looking great as always!

 

[Mmmmick]

Hi Munki, sorry I'm a little late kicking in. Nice chop!!

About the PM issue. I finally found some Serenade(after all my plants are gone). Contains B subtillus, bacteria that kills PM spores, can be used right up to harvest and also can be sprayed on harvested buds to stop bud rot/PM. By the time they're cured the bacteria is gone.The bacteria dies off in 2 weeks and does not interact with human physiology. It has a bit of a smell but fades after 2 days and it should save buds from the cookpot.
I've recently seen it used and it kept PM from recurring for up to 10-11 days on a plant that showed spots every 4 days with other treatments. It doesn't seem to affect plant developement like most other treatments I've tried.(peroxide, skim milk, high ph water(not so much))
There's another product, called AQ10 I believe, that contains the same bacteria. Don't know if it smells any different.
Sorry I didn't bring it up sooner, but I couldn't find a source and didn't know for sure how well it worked. Maybe helpful in your next grow if you get hit with PM again.

Love the look of that drying line.

 

[Munki]

Hi Munki, sorry I'm a little late kicking in. Nice chop!!

About the PM issue. I finally found some Serenade(after all my plants are gone). Contains B subtillus, bacteria that kills PM spores, can be used right up to harvest and also can be sprayed on harvested buds to stop bud rot/PM. By the time they're cured the bacteria is gone.The bacteria dies off in 2 weeks and does not interact with human physiology. It has a bit of a smell but fades after 2 days and it should save buds from the cookpot.
I've recently seen it used and it kept PM from recurring for up to 10-11 days on a plant that showed spots every 4 days with other treatments. It doesn't seem to affect plant developement like most other treatments I've tried.(peroxide, skim milk, high ph water(not so much))
There's another product, called AQ10 I believe, that contains the same bacteria. Don't know if it smells any different.
Sorry I didn't bring it up sooner, but I couldn't find a source and didn't know for sure how well it worked. Maybe helpful in your next grow if you get hit with PM again.

Love the look of that drying line.

I saw DocBud talking about that product but figured it was too late for my grow. Nice to know I could use post harvest; will keep that in mind next time if I have an issue with PM. This strain is now gone from my garden.

 

[Munki]

OK, the stems snap when bent, so I jarred up the buds. Got weights to share with pics. Should have used the flash on all pics but oh well. Please note that all weights are of the product only. I tared (or zeroed out) the scale for the bowl or bag first.

Plant 3 (was right plant in pics)

Plant 2 (center plant in pics)

Plant 1 (was left plant in pics)

Half filled large mason jar with all buds. Since they were small, they are fairly packed in.

The trim ...

 

[Munki]

OK, the stems snap when bent, so I jarred up the buds. Got weights to share with pics. Should have used the flash on all pics but oh well. Please note that all weights are of the product only. I tared (or zeroed out) the scale for the bowl or bag first.

Plant 3 (was right plant in pics)

Plant 2 (center plant in pics)

Plant 1 (was left plant in pics)

Half filled large mason jar with all buds. Since they were small, they are fairly packed in.

The trim ... That's 61.874 grams.

 

[zzoomm100]

Just as I suspected, frosty as hell!

I like how low maintenance your grow was too. Makes me want to try a watering system.

Good stuff Munki. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Munki]

Just as I suspected, frosty as hell!

I like how low maintenance your grow was too. Makes me want to try a watering system.

Good stuff Munki. Thanks for sharing.

Yeah they are covered in crystals and crispy dry.

The ebb n flow system I got on a Craigslist sale was something that I just could not pass up. I got it with a Galaxy 600 watt digital ballast, the tri-dip meter, a window A/C unit, hydroton, and some various other odds and ends for $250. Was a truly amazing deal.

Heh, just realized that I double posted my results somehow!

 

[Munki]

Just cracked open the jar and gave a deep smell. Now I know what beautiful smells like! MMMMMMM!

 

[lbezphil2005]

Hey munki, in using those big jars don't you run a bigger chance of mold, ie more damp bud in larger area = more chance of mold? I was thinking about getting the bigger jars, easier to get the hands in and out of, but I am concerned about either overloading it or not burping enough and ruining everything. I guess the question is do you have a favorite size jar and for what reason, other than being able to put more in it?

 

[Munki]

Hey munki, in using those big jars don't you run a bigger chance of mold, ie more damp bud in larger area = more chance of mold? I was thinking about getting the bigger jars, easier to get the hands in and out of, but I am concerned about either overloading it or not burping enough and ruining everything. I guess the question is do you have a favorite size jar and for what reason, other than being able to put more in it?

Not sure how an increased empty area would increase a mold outbreak. The spores are very small, numerous, and exist throughout the atmosphere. Even if the jar was "full", it would have many areas that are airspace. In fact, I think that having the ability to get a good air exchange to be beneficial.

Now, with this crop, I cut off the watering 2 1/2 days before harvest. With that and the buds being small, they were dry in 4 days and I jarred them after 5 days. Nothing too damp in that jar! I just looked at it, and I see no sweating inside the jar; only speckles of resin.

I haven't noted increased issues with larger jars. I have only one jar that has a spot of mold. It is the Blueberry Wowie from the previous harvest that has not been opened in a couple of months at least. It is a small jar.

 

[Xlr8]

Not sure how an increased empty area would increase a mold outbreak. The spores are very small, numerous, and exist throughout the atmosphere. Even if the jar was "full", it would have many areas that are airspace. In fact, I think that having the ability to get a good air exchange to be beneficial.

Now, with this crop, I cut off the watering 2 1/2 days before harvest. With that and the buds being small, they were dry in 4 days and I jarred them after 5 days. Nothing too damp in that jar! I just looked at it, and I see no sweating inside the jar; only speckles of resin.

I haven't noted increased issues with larger jars. I have only one jar that has a spot of mold. It is the Blueberry Wowie from the previous harvest that has not been opened in a couple of months at least. It is a small jar.

Hey Munki, congrats on the harvest.

Nice score you got on the Ebb n Grow and other goodies. I'm going to be trying out the Titan Controls Flo n Gro (Ebb n Grow copycat) soon. I went with it over the Ebb n Grow because I liked the slightly larger 4 gallon size better, as well as the 360 netpots and controller. So far everything I've done is DWC, so this will be my first flood/drain hydro system. I'm open to any tips or suggestions if you have 'em!

As far as jars go, my first couple of grows I used some pretty large jars, and had no problems. I did have some mold in a couple of jars 2 harvests ago, but those were smaller (regular) size jars and I was a dummy and missed burping 2 jars for a while (oops!).

Anyway, congrats again on the harvest!

 

[Munki]

Hey Munki, congrats on the harvest.

Nice score you got on the Ebb n Grow and other goodies. I'm going to be trying out the Titan Controls Flo n Gro (Ebb n Grow copycat) soon. I went with it over the Ebb n Grow because I liked the slightly larger 4 gallon size better, as well as the 360 netpots and controller. So far everything I've done is DWC, so this will be my first flood/drain hydro system. I'm open to any tips or suggestions if you have 'em!

As far as jars go, my first couple of grows I used some pretty large jars, and had no problems. I did have some mold in a couple of jars 2 harvests ago, but those were smaller (regular) size jars and I was a dummy and missed burping 2 jars for a while (oops!).

Anyway, congrats again on the harvest!

Thanks Xlr8. Nice thing about ebb n flow setups is that nutrient temp becomes much less of an issue so no need for a water chiller! Air is brought into the media when the nutrient water recedes. I do recommend having a pump sit in the reservoir that is on 24/7 to circulate the nutrients.

Oh, and thanks for adding to the discussion regarding jar size. If anyone else wants to share their experiences, please feel free to do so.

 

[Xlr8]

Thanks Xlr8. Nice thing about ebb n flow setups is that nutrient temp becomes much less of an issue so no need for a water chiller! Air is brought into the media when the nutrient water recedes. I do recommend having a pump sit in the reservoir that is on 24/7 to circulate the nutrients.

Oh, and thanks for adding to the discussion regarding jar size. If anyone else wants to share their experiences, please feel free to do so.

Hi Munki - I'm definitely going to put a pump in the reservoir as you mentioned. I was going to put airstones in there, but now I'm considering throwing an aquarium pump in there and just let it "churn" for even greater aeration. Would you recommend air-stones, or an aquarium pump?

Thanks for the insight!

 

[TorturedSoul]

Can you have too much DO in an E&F setup? I don't think there's a practical limit in DWC. Supersaturation helps defend against harmful root-zone issues and appears to help (along with allowing the plants to transpire large amounts of water0 in high-temperature climates.

 

[Xlr8]

Can you have too much DO in an E&F setup? I don't think there's a practical limit in DWC. Supersaturation helps defend against harmful root-zone issues and appears to help (along with allowing the plants to transpire large amounts of water0 in high-temperature climates.

I doubt you can have too much DO in any hydro set-up, but I could be wrong... I'm so much more used to DWC, and it sure seemed like the more DO the better there.

On my new Flo n Gro system I'm guessing I'd probably be good with a couple of air-stones in the res, and setting up a "tee" in there for the nutrient drain return so that I get more agitation as the drain re-enters the reservoir. Especially seeing that the oxygen is getting to the roots regardless with the ebb and flow process. I've still got to build my reservoir on the system - I didn't buy the whole kit, and am MacGyvering it a little. Should be together soon, however.

Sorry for temporarily highjacking your thread Munki!

 

[Munki]

I doubt you can have too much DO in any hydro set-up, but I could be wrong... I'm so much more used to DWC, and it sure seemed like the more DO the better there.

On my new Flo n Gro system I'm guessing I'd probably be good with a couple of air-stones in the res, and setting up a "tee" in there for the nutrient drain return so that I get more agitation as the drain re-enters the reservoir. Especially seeing that the oxygen is getting to the roots regardless with the ebb and flow process. I've still got to build my reservoir on the system - I didn't buy the whole kit, and am MacGyvering it a little. Should be together soon, however.

Sorry for temporarily highjacking your thread Munki!

No prob, Xlr8. There is an upper limit to how much Oxygen will dissolve in a given amount of water at a given temperature, so there is a diminishing return versus effort put forth. This chart may help. The left or Y axis is in grams per liter.

Ignore the minimum acceptable line as this image was grabbed from a website concerning ponds. Also, we must consider that the more salts like nutrients dissolved will further depress the amount of gasses like oxygen that the water can absorb. Thinking of water like a sponge can help here.

Fortunately with ebb n flow, it is less important as the roots spend a great deal of time exposed to the atmosphere directly with fresh air being brought down to the root zone after each flood cycle when the water recedes.