Yellowing troubles

Pjpoppet

Well-Known Member
Hi all, I’m reasonably well knowledges in growing using Bubble Ponics, I’ve not really encountered this fan leaf yellowing so quickly before, so I’d appreciate if you could toss up some ideas.

Growing in Hydroton
Sativas ( gorilla glue)
1000w viperspectra LED (dimmable)
Using Emerald Harvest and have been happy with previous grows.
PPM at 650 is where it’s been happiest
Falling slowly over a week down to 590
Fluid level falling too
PH unstable to a certain degree rising from 5.6 to above 7 over 24 hrs
I’ve done reservoir changes every 10 days during the grow.
I’m using Cal-mag now for over the last two weeks and also upping the Nitrogen slowly whilst I monitor.
Roots are nice n white
I also add Some Great white Shark every res change ( great product too BTW)
However despite my methodical efforts, she continues to worsen.
All ideas welcomed.
IMG_4955.jpeg


IMG_4956.jpeg


IMG_4958.jpeg
 
which ppm scale ? what is the ec ?

you're too light no matter the scale. you should be hitting an ec between 1.4 - 1.5 by now.

are you on RO or tap and a guess ?
 
which ppm scale ? what is the ec ?

you're too light no matter the scale. you should be hitting an ec between 1.4 - 1.5 by now.

are you on RO or tap and a guess ?
I use aged tap water, ec is 1.3 if using conversion chart, the ph pen and ec pen I use are very accurate, I get what you are saying in regards to Elevating the nutes, I’ve tried a few times, however it nute burns over 670 every time.
 
Hi all, I’m reasonably well knowledges in growing using Bubble Ponics, I’ve not really encountered this fan leaf yellowing so quickly before, so I’d appreciate if you could toss up some ideas.

Growing in Hydroton
Sativas ( gorilla glue)
1000w viperspectra LED (dimmable)
Using Emerald Harvest and have been happy with previous grows.
PPM at 650 is where it’s been happiest
Falling slowly over a week down to 590
Fluid level falling too
PH unstable to a certain degree rising from 5.6 to above 7 over 24 hrs
I’ve done reservoir changes every 10 days during the grow.
I’m using Cal-mag now for over the last two weeks and also upping the Nitrogen slowly whilst I monitor.
Roots are nice n white
I also add Some Great white Shark every res change ( great product too BTW)
However despite my methodical efforts, she continues to worsen.
All ideas welcomed.
IMG_4955.jpeg


IMG_4956.jpeg


IMG_4958.jpeg
She is hungry, I'd be at 1100 ppm minimum right now.
Aren't you following the schedule for your nutrients?
Keep your ph at 5.8 for maximum nutrient uptake. :Namaste:




#VIVOSUN #Love What You Grow
Bill284 😎
 
Morning Pjpoppet, all indicators are saying your plant is hungry, but you are saying that you get tip burning if you raise the ec.. How big is your res?, smaller sized res. would explain the sharp rise in ph. This alone would explain the yellowing. Next. What is the temp. of your res.?, maybe too high and will quickly lead to more serious problems.
 
I use aged tap water, ec is 1.3 if using conversion chart, the ph pen and ec pen I use are very accurate, I get what you are saying in regards to Elevating the nutes, I’ve tried a few times, however it nute burns over 670 every time.


what is the ec of the water you start with and are you tracking it ? the 670 is definitely not cutting it anymore.

municipal water can change several times a year. i don't run active hydro on tap anymore. locally everyone is on RO due to our water conditions.

i'd get to RO and would follow a proper feed chart.
 
Morning Pjpoppet, all indicators are saying your plant is hungry, but you are saying that you get tip burning if you raise the ec.. How big is your res?, smaller sized res. would explain the sharp rise in ph. This alone would explain the yellowing. Next. What is the temp. of your res.?, maybe too high and will quickly lead to more serious problems.
I have 3 gallons under the net pot, I’ve just raised ppm up to 1200, ph to 5.7, I’ll keep a close eye on her, my reservoir temp is consistently between 22-24 degrees.
 
I have 3 gallons under the net pot, I’ve just raised ppm up to 1200, ph to 5.7, I’ll keep a close eye on her, my reservoir temp is consistently between 22-24 degrees.
Morning Pjpoppet. I run an active hydro system with a five gallon res. and experienced both yellowing leaves (all older growth) and constant sharp rise in ph. I have eliminated the yellowing and have reduced the ph. jump from one day to four and sometimes not at all between changes by cooling the res. down to between 17 and 18c. The warmer solution was causing nut. lock out causing all sorts of problems, but with a simple solution. :ganjamon:
 
Morning Pjpoppet. I run an active hydro system with a five gallon res. and experienced both yellowing leaves (all older growth) and constant sharp rise in ph. I have eliminated the yellowing and have reduced the ph. jump from one day to four and sometimes not at all between changes by cooling the res. down to between 17 and 18c. The warmer solution was causing nut. lock out causing all sorts of problems, but with a simple solution. :ganjamon:
Good advice
 
Calling in @gwhunran here :thanks:
Lot of good advise here. I run a 17 gallon reservoir and top it up daily, checking and adjusting the PH bi daily. I also over aerate the reservoir. O2 content of reservoir and temperature go hand in hand. If they get out of wack, sick plants.
I only follow the manufacturers recommendation on my nutes and don't measure after adding so, I can't be much help there.
Are you dead certain all your measuring equipment is within specs.?
I use the water sample and add PHing solution method of PHing. Been doing it for a long time and it works for me. You might get you a little kit at the pool shop to just verify your meter results some time. Would work as a back up anyway.
 
I’m following the feeding schedule, even been closely watching reservoir temps more frequently as it’s now getting colder here, it goes as low as 16 degrees and no higher than 19.5.

I’ve upped the nutrients to 1100 ppm, roots are looking good (not perfectly white, but close)

I have a hot tub/ jacuzzi, my test instruments are accurate, ( verified by local pool shop)

Ph has been more stable over the last week.

Reservoir level falling, ppm falling very slightly, and ph creeping up slowly, pretty perfect conditions

Sadly she still is yellowing.

IMG_5004.jpeg


IMG_5005.jpeg
 
Morning Pjpoppet. I run an active hydro system with a five gallon res. and experienced both yellowing leaves (all older growth) and constant sharp rise in ph. I have eliminated the yellowing and have reduced the ph. jump from one day to four and sometimes not at all between changes by cooling the res. down to between 17 and 18c. The warmer solution was causing nut. lock out causing all sorts of problems, but with a simple solution. :ganjamon:
Basically growing indoor in the Summer months is a pita.
My plant is showing yellowing as well after a two week heatwave.
 
Basically growing indoor in the Summer months is a pita.
My plant is showing yellowing as well after a two week heatwave.
I totally agree, summer indoor grows here in Australia require serious climate control, strangely it’s winter here, I’ve had yellowing before, not like this though, there’s always another grow though, light airy bud can provide surprisingly good results
 
Sadly she still is yellowing.
Hmm, this is way out of my lane as an outdoor soil grower; however, this looks very much like an N problem. What I know about N is that in order for proper use by the plant, you must also feed sufficient Fe and S.

I posted to another thread with similar leaf yellowing:
I'm pretty sure this is nitrogen and/or sulfur deficiency. Also, iron is needed for proper uptake/use of N. Also, keep in mind that Fe, Zn, Mn are interrelated plant nutrients affecting uptake/use of N and S.

If this was my plant, I would fertigate with solution grade potassium sulfate, and top dress with kelp meal for iron and other micro-nutrients. Make sure she's getting enough phosphorous, too.

So now the question is, what are you feeding and what are the amounts in the fert of N, Fe, S, Zn, Mn, K? Other essential micronutrients?

What worked for you in the past, fert wise, may not be working for some reason with these GG phenos that you are growing.

Introducing some liquid kelp fert may help solve this.

EDIT: This may match what's going on with your plants... more of what I posted to that other thread...

Researching this a bit more... the symptoms seem consistent with sulfur (S) and Mg deficiency, both of which can be confused with N deficiency. There seems to be plenty of N, as is seen with the deep green leaves.
These leaves ⬇️... looks very much like S deficiency... a uniform fading to yellow, and necrotic tips.

1680413448756.png


This article speaks about S deficiency starting in mid-plant, and mentions S as "partially mobile". See the photo, Figure 4, in the article...

Upper Leaf Chlorosis - Cannabis Business Times

Also, read this about Mg deficiency...



Doc is using Langbeinite... could be exactly what this plant needs... K, Mg, and S. BUT... better to use DTE's solution grade Langbeinite in the white bag...

1680413365044.png

You may wish to clip off the yellowing leaves so that you'll be able to more easily notice when things improve.
 
I totally agree, summer indoor grows here in Australia require serious climate control, strangely it’s winter here, I’ve had yellowing before, not like this though, there’s always another grow though, light airy bud can provide surprisingly good results
Ha! I was thinking there's of course a chance they might be on the other hemidemisemisphere.
But yeah water temperatures between 16-19,5 sounds like Summer to me :D I'd need to heat it to get to that in Winter.
So I thought must be dealing with hot temps around.
 
Thought I’d update progress, it’s taken a while to get a good understanding of this girl, certainly tested my bubbleponics knowledge, any way here’s pics

IMG_5308.jpeg


IMG_5307.jpeg
 
Back
Top Bottom