Akisunni Indoor Cold & Hot Grow Zones

[STOP]

cant help you there buddy,i only do hydro and only use 3 bottles through out my grow.no knowledge about your molasses... .
to technical for me ,i like easy grows.happydays


peace

 

[36Gr0w]

Organic fertilizer - Molasses helps boost fertilizer

 

[Unfetteron]

Khraevyn,

I am a windows guy, so know I too am making that transition too. Pick up a Raspi when you can. They are easier then I expected. I have a windows note pad file with all of my short cuts saved to it. I remote into its system, running scripts remotely. Its basically Dos 5.0 with a win3.11 with networking desktop on top. Once you put yourself into that space its pretty easy to work with.

I am building the remote process, to free up my own time. Call it ADD or ADAH or what ever , but I am a lot more productive sitting at my desk, with a monitor browser tabs setup to flick between my plants. I dont have to jump up and run out to the garage to check on them. In fact, I am going days with out touching them, now that I know I can trust my data points.

I have a couple of coders helping with my project. Our tech monitors any kind of remote garden. I can turn on and off water, fans, lights, and watch sprinklers work in real time (my back yard this summer, until a friend used the page to try and soak me while I worked on my tomato's). The "cloud" part of the build is what is really the hard/expensive/WTF was I thinking when I started this project part.

I have real time charts and images streaming to the cloud via our own proprietary API to a cloud DB based solution. That works. My prob is my coder has twins that are teething, and Momma hasnt freed up to work on the project lately. lol

The Raspi with Near Blue IR 5 mega pixal camera costs about $75 (40 for RasPi, 30 Cam, 5 shipping) and and 2 x Arduino Mega with sensor shield ($60ish all in) plus basic temp sensors et all ($20 in parts) is the basic kit. The extra costs is stuff like CO2 monitor and controls (all 3rd party). 3rd party LED lights (or until I decide to make my own vs my cheaper CFL to start approach).

Ask my any questions, send me Private Messages if you want. I am pretty much an open book on this stuff. I am here to learn, and that means sharing what we do know with each other.

Peace,

Aki

I know it's an old post but I had to do a face palm when I saw the dos win 3.11 comparison. More like comparing a corvette to a Ferrari. I'm a red hat certified engineer if you need any Linux help.

I'm very curios about the components you are using in your sensors. If you don't mind I may pick your brain when I get to my automation.

 

[SoilGirl]

Hahaha I like the door girl aki but no, I've never used raw sugar cane, though the idea seems sound to me. Personally, I'll stick to blackstrap molasses, and the dry stuff in Yum Yum mix.

 

[akisunni]

Unfetteron

I know it's an old post but I had to do a face palm when I saw the dos win 3.11 comparison. More like comparing a corvette to a Ferrari. I'm a red hat certified engineer if you need any Linux help.

Great, I will remember this. Also, any time you have any Q's on the automation side, hit me up. 420 Mag is about sharing, and this would be the area where I can.

Soil Girl

Hahaha I like the door girl aki but no, I've never used raw sugar cane, though the idea seems sound to me. Personally, I'll stick to blackstrap molasses, and the dry stuff in Yum Yum mix.

Yum Yum mix? Can you share some details on this?

 

[akisunni]

Major Saturday Morning Update:
Bud Porn Alert

The girls are going to keep me busy today. I have a number of changes I have to make, due to grow bursts and limitations in my grow spaces.

The girls in Veg space will start their path toward their future. One of them will start LST and getting some horizontal growth started. The Bagseed is growing like a happy weed, I am leaving it alone for now. The other clone, will probably loose her top today, and I will put it into a new clone growth cycle. After she loses her top, I will start to train her to be a longer term Mom clone, with a Flux type of approach. I have her clone top (hopefully) to fall back on if I over flux the capacity.

Lets start small and work our way through the grow spaces.

Stealth Veg Space in Credenza

Plants:
2 x Big Girl Clones (rumored to be Blue Dreams)
1 x Bagseed (single seed in a bag of quality dispensary weed)

Age
Big Girls Clones are in Day 25 of Vegging since 1st planting
Bagseed is on Day 27 since 1st planting

Lights
4x23 watts 6500 CFL
1x13 watts 6500 CFL

Removed the last of the 2700 lights to slow down stretch while I start to apply LST training. The idea is to train them for another 2-3 weeks in the small veg space horizontally, before moving one of them into the Stinky Pinky place in the 36/12 space.

LST Training

Bagseed

Future Fluxer

36/12 Flower Space

I pulled the girls out today. I drilled new holes, and raised the lighting above the plants. Stinky Pink wasn't happy with the heat, and Cherry Bomb ran out of space to stretch into.

Plants:
1 x Stinky Pink (rumored to be)
1 x Cherry Bomb (Dispensary Clone)

Age
Stinky Pink is Day 49 of flowering
Cherry Bomb is Day 15 of flowering

Lights
1x105 watts 5500 CFL
3x65 watts 2700 CFL

Added the last 65 watt 2700 to the grow space this week. It has significantly increased the heat inside the space. So much so its causing issues. I have drilled new holes in the back of the space to allow heat to dissipate quicker. However, I think I still need to add a new larger hole to the top for more venting.

Stinky is at day 49 of flower. It has grown up in the space with Big Girl for a month, then outside for two weeks, then inside for a month. It's no where near as healthy as the plants that have been indoors only. It has done its last stretch and appears to be "SLOWLY" filling in some of the space.

Cherry Bomb is 15 days into the 36/12 cycle. Its not showing any sign yet of starting the flower process. However it has also only experienced 6-7 12 hour sleep cycles so far. It will be interesting to watch how much longer the grow cycle is when on 36/12 from healthy small clone stage.

Stinky

Cherry Bomb

Jerry our Living Dead Door Girl

12/12 Flower Space

Big Girl continues doing what she is doing. She is still adding fresh growth into her lower canopy at this late date. She has multi cola's falling over now. I will have to get some bamboo, turn off the lights, and see if I can prop some growth up.

Plants:
1 x Blue Dream (rumored to be) who I call Big Girl.

Age
Blue Dream is at Day 49 of flowering

Lights
1x105 watts 5500 CFL
1X65 watt 6500 CFL
2x65 watts 2700 CFL

Big girls nuggets are hard, small, dense, and now starting to fall over. Her leaves are really healthy looking, so at this point I wont be adding more nutrients to her watering cycles. The flowers smell amazing. Its almost a fruit loop or bubble gum smell.

Even Deep into the canopy

 

[akisunni]

Saturday Addendum:

I refilled the CO2 Engines with fresh sugar. They both had a major fizzing event, so it appears that both of them are currently healthy with regards to their yeast activity.

I am going to reload the CO2 engines each weekend, until I convert over my keg regulator/tank system to provide it automatically. I checked into the cost to build my own CO2 sensors, to automate the process. Where my normal temp sensors or soil sensors might cost $5 each or so, the CO2 sensors start around $100 each, plus coding time to add to current designs.

At that price point, I would rather save the headache and go with a 3rd party unit for the time being. I really like the one that KingJohn uses. I will probably go with one of those to start down that path.

The 36/12 grow space is running 20 degree's cooler with the lights raised and fresh holes to breath through at that level. Currently running 86 degrees with higher levels of CO2 at plant canopy level. Only the Stinky Pinky primary cola is above this level (exposed to higher heat).

I am really enjoying the excel schedule file from 420 Mag. I used it for the engine of a tweeked version. I added a full life cycle of each plant to a second tab. Below is the columns of data I am tracking on the second tab. It's nice to track the full life-cycle of a plant, and know how long it REALLY has been at each stage of life.

Plant ID:

Plant Type
Source Cut/Plant Date
Root Day
Replant Day
Switch Date
Root Days
Veg Days
Alive
Flower Days
Estimated
Harvested
Wet Weight
Dry Weight
Total yield

 

[SoilGirl]

Nice update aki, big girl looks amazing!

As far as yum-yum mix, here's a copy/paste from the first page on my indoor journal:

Yum Yum mix by SoilMender:
"Yum Yum Mix is an all-purpose fertilizer and soil conditioner. It is a premium blend of organic and natural alfalfa meal, cottonseed meal, greensand, kelp meal, planters II, rock phosphate, humate and dry molasses. Yum Yum Mix is a rich source of major nutrient elements. Earthworms and soil micro-organisms respond to this natural banquet by breaking down minerals and organic matter into available nutrients for your plants. Yum Yum Mix is natural, organic and completely safe for family, pets, wildlife and everything you grow. It is free of animal products, petrochemicals, and sewage sludge. Vegetarian approved - no blood, no bones. Yum Yum Mix improves soil tilth, moisture retention, plant vigor, and stress resistance. Used regularly, it helps create a balanced pH and a naturally fertile soil. Perfect for growing all annuals, perennials, vegetables, lawns, trees and shrubs.

Ingredient Benefits
Alfalfa Meal: Nitrogen; Vitamins-A, B, E, carotene, thiamine, biotin, pantothenic acid, niacin, riboflavin, folic acid, choline; 16 amino acids, co-enzymes, sugars, starches, protein fiber
Cottonseed Meal: Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium
Kelp Meal: Nitrogen; Potassium; Vitamins-A, B, B2 , C, calcium, pantothenate, niacin, folic acid; minerals-barium, boron, calcium, cobalt, copper, fluorine, iron, magnesium, manganese, molybdenum, nickel, sodium, strontium, sulfur, zinc; 17 amino acids
Greensand: Iron, Potassium, Silicate, Phosphorus, 30 trace elements
Rock Dust: Calcium, Sulfur, Magnesium, Boron, Cobalt
Rock Phosphate: Phosphorus, Calcium, Trace Elements
Humate: Salts of Humic Acid - improve soil characteristics and aids in releasing other nutrients to plants in usable forms
Dry Molasses: Carbohydrates, Sugars, Trace Elements - feeds and attracts beneficial soil organisms


Guaranteed Analysis

Total Nitrogen (N) - 2.0%
Available Phosphate (P2O5) - 1.0%
Soluble Potash (K2O) - 1.0%"

 

[Skybound]

Hello akisunni, I heard you have a nice automated system and I just had to see for myself. I read through your thread and I too am greatly impressed by what you have put together. I too, along with unfetteron and some others are on the quest of building an all inclusive hydroponics controller, however, none of us are as far along in our project as you are. So you use an Arduino in conjunction with RasPi? Does the Raspi function as the master and Arduino as a slave, or are they both a stand alone? I myself am very new to microcontrollers and small electronics, but I have accumulated a few things like a Mega 2560, Ethernet Shield and just ordered some cat5 Passive POE injector and some DHT22 sensors for temp/RH. I will also be purchasing a relay board as soon as I find one that I know and understand can handle the load of my ballasts. I have two 600 watt HPS and another 400 watt that I would like to ultimately control through the relays. Also have plans for PH and EC shields, but I am first wanting to confirm if it's possible to multiplex between the shield and all the various probes. As far as I am thinking, it doesn't matter which probe was fired for a reading, the shield should be able to interpret whichever reading is sent it's way, and the Arduino can keep track of which probe was called upon for the reading. What are your thoughts on this?

I have many many many other questions that I would like answered on the forum somewhere, but I don't want to jack your journal, unless that's fine with you. Otherwise, I started a blog about a month ago in attempt to commingle like minds on this subject and get the ultimate end project built asap. If you would like to share your findings and knowledge on the subject w/o having to repeat all the steps over and over in a private message, we would love to have your presence on the blog entry. The link is in my signature.

 

[akisunni]

SoilGirl

Nice update aki, big girl looks amazing! As far as yum-yum mix, here's a copy/paste from the first page on my indoor journal:

My bad. I had read that page, and it should have auto indexed in my memory (I am blessed by DNA in this regard), but saw yum yum and was thinking of gummy bears in a sugar mix instead. lol

Skybound

I have many many many other questions that I would like answered on the forum somewhere, but I don't want to jack your journal, unless that's fine with you.

Yes, you can "jack" my stream here on questions in real time, anytime. I would kind of like that. Let me give you some quick answers here, and then I will swing by your blog and introduce myself in more detail.

Here are some answers in no specific order...

The relay itself isn't the issue as much as controlling the amps and AC aspects of the lamps. When I started down this path, I was hacking apart electrical devices, adding a set of wires and breaking the flow of electrons by using an "Aki WTF" wire to the mix. This works for some stuff, but honestly, its not suggested in a case like what you and I actually want to do.

Here is a quicker solution. You don't need to hack the relay, you only need your mega sensor shield. This is a 120v AC connection, with a relay wired inline with the end point. You connect wires from the Arduino to the box inline, and you can now turn on and off real loads. Its $35 and I am expecting to use it in my next hardware build, once I get an LED unit ordered in January.

Description: Remote Switchable 120V AC Power Cord

Connections: Low Voltage DC Pos(+) and Neg(-), Standard 3-prong 120 Volt AC

Model: EKM-S120

The Arduino can run through the different parts of the code, taking actions and remembering them, with no issues at all. My largest hardware build so far includes a LCD, a Real Time Clock, A PH shield, A GPS shield, A customized Soil Sensor, A hTM11 sensor, an SD drive all inside of a small box with a bleeping ton of wires (and works). You just need to add the sub code circuit for each device to the necessary loop in the ardu coding system.

So, yes, multi plexing multi sensors is easier then it sounds to describe how it works. I can send you freeware open source arduino code to get your basic unit up and running. I build my arduo code base over the course of a year, trying more if not all combos. I am sure I can dust off a copy and have it up and running in a few minutes if you send me your current build design.

I can paste the code here or your blog, so its open to anyone to play with.

 

[Skybound]

Design? I am still tossing around ideas while I gather the funds to proceed. Essentially I am wanting to monitor/control at least 2 rooms, but in future more, and be able to do so from within one interface via smartphone with internet. Each room then becomes the kicker as flower can demand as much as one res per plant (x4 sites), each with individualized needs and the needed sensors, then veg would have 2-4 different res tanks, air control in temp/rh/co2 and odor detection if possible to control rate/frequency of carbon scrubbing.

My initial understanding is that it can all be done, but I was told the devil will be in the circuitry which is what I am in the process of trying to learn. So I am thinking to center it all around the Mega, breadboard each circuit with as few pins used as possible and try to work out any bugs and move onto the next phase as I see quite a few, some of which are pretty expensive all parts included. The phases (of my controller) I recognize are

Air monitor/control - sensors for air quality
AC Voltage Control - relays for HIDs and all other timed devices or event triggered devices
AC Voltage PWM Control - fan speed control for carbon scrubbing
---Water Quality---
PH - shield and multiplexed circuit to many probes
EC - same
DO - 1 sensor per room as water temp would likely be the strongest factor
Temp - also 1 per room
Level - shield and multiplexed circuit
----Nutrient & Drainage---
1 peristaltic pump per each type of nutrient or supplement
1 solenoid manifold to distribute from a mainline to each subsequent reservoir. This would likely need to be built per application.
1 solenoid at bottom of each res, each connected to a main drain pipe and carried into the sewer
---Video---
1 remote zoomable night vision camera that swivels per room. Something like this would likely need a Raspi or BBB, but I want it anyway. I bet color filtering would be useful to turn down the red spectrum of the flower lights and be able to see leaves in a better spectrum for our eyes to look at and get a better feel for nute deficiencies and whatnot.

So yeah, I am hoping to manage "at least" all of that from a single master controller that can be controlled via the phone. To have all of these capabilities would so enable me to keep a tighter control over all of the indoor grow variables. I'd like to know how quick my plants can devour the CO2 in the room to then determine how often and at what RPM should my fan suck from the carbon scrubber. I recently was enlightened to the Diminishing Light Routine of starting flower at 12/12 and absorbing 15 minutes off each end of the lights on cycle every two weeks which is alleged to increase terrapin production and make buds taste better or something, I might wish to try that and feel manipulating the light cycles of just the lamps only would be much easier from a phone.

So to summarize, anything and everything you will share would be great! Circuit schematics, code, ideas to build any part of the above that you don't already have, all is needed to really flesh this topic out for everyone's benefit!

Edit - The peri pumps and solenoids would be used to empty spent nutrient reservoirs, then back fill with new res composition. All that would be needed is an RO res kept up high, and solenoid valves and gravity ported to a specific emptied res. Each nutrient could be spliced right into the main RO line and RO and a nutrient can be pumped in together, or the feed line could be filled with RO, each of the nutes be dosed in, then open the right valves to get it all into the res to the desired level. With this level of control, the only time you'll need to visit the grow is to transplant, or cut stuff. Every other aspect (as far as I can see) can be managed remotely. This would then enable us to have the time to solidify all applicable aspects of WITTBAG, which should have a successful result.

 

[akisunni]

Hi,

The solenoid solution is available at www.adafruit. com/products/996 this copy is a metal high quality one with crisp switching. I tried the plastic cheaper model, and was extremely underwhelmed by them. That doesn't mean they wont or cant be made to work, but the heavy one just seemed to work better.

My original design was going to use a soil sensor for each plant, and have the plants auto water themselves. This way if a plant is getting direct sunlight and is a lot more thirsty then a plant a few feet away, out of the direct light, each can water themselves based on their own needs.

A mega arduino with sensor shield will control one room worth of activity. It will give you all of the sensor readings. You will want to connect a Raspi for IR camera, ease of sending data to the cloud for using your cell phone with. My design this summer allowed me to turn on and off lights, fans, servos, from a single unit.

You will want to biforcate the Mega sensor package from the switching and reply unit. The reason is that my mega takes 30 seconds to finish a full stack of sub routines. You dont want to wait 30 seconds for a valve to turn on or off.

Quick reply, will share more as we go.

Here is the Ardu code to control the 4 relay switch... This build requires an Uno with Ethernet and 4 port relay shield stacked on top of each other. This was released by someone else and then tweeked to my settings. It will turn on and off 4 LEDs based on pushing a button on a web page. Those 4 LEDs can be lights, fans, pumps ecta in reality.

#include <SPI.h>
#include <Ethernet.h>

byte mac[] = { 0xDE, 0xAD, 0xBE, 0xEF, 0xFE, 0xEF };
char server[] = "www.mycompanyurl.info"; // Server URL, place your web url
IPAddress ip(192,168,1,93); // set static local IP address dns, gateway and subnet if it not assigned by DHCP
IPAddress dnServer(8, 8, 8, 8);
IPAddress gateway(192, 168, 1, 254);
IPAddress subnet(255, 255, 255, 0);
EthernetClient client;

int led_PIN[] = {0,4,5,6,7}; // LED pin Configuration, array[0] not used

void setup() {
for(byte i = 1; i<=4; i = i+1){
pinMode(led_PIN,OUTPUT);
digitalWrite(led_PIN,LOW);
}
Serial.begin(9600);
setIP();
}

void loop(){
if (client.connected()) {
Serial.println("connected");
// Make a HTTP request:
client.println("GET /index.php?action=ardu HTTP/1.0"); // Target php path
client.println("Host: www.mycompany.info"); // Server URL
client.println("Accept-Encoding: 0");
client.println("Cache-Control: no-cache");
client.println("Connection: close");
client.println();
delay(1000);
Serial.println(client.available());
while (client.available()) {
char c = client.read();
// Search for "=[" Header
if(c == '='){
if(client.read() == '['){
LEDstate();
}
}
Serial.print(c);
}
delay(1000);
}
else {
Serial.println("connecting...");
client.stop();
delay(1000);
client.connect(server, 80);
}

}

void setIP(){
if (Ethernet.begin(mac) == 0) {
Serial.println("Failed to configure Ethernet using DHCP");
Ethernet.begin(mac, ip, dnServer, gateway, subnet);
}
delay(1000);
Serial.print("Arduino IP Address is: ");
Serial.println(Ethernet.localIP());
client.connect(server, 80);
}

// Scan for LED Control
void LEDstate(){
for( byte i = 1; i <= 4; i = i +1){
char ch = client.read();
if(ch == '1'){
Serial.print("LED");
Serial.print(i);
Serial.print(" = ON");
digitalWrite(led_PIN,HIGH); // Trun ON LED
} else if(ch == '0'){
Serial.print("LED");
Serial.print(i);
Serial.print(" = OFF");
digitalWrite(led_PIN,LOW); // Turn OFF LED
}
Serial.println();
}
}

 

[Skybound]

Don't yet know enough to fully understand code, but I do remember reading on the Arduino forum to refrain from using delay when at all possible. Is it needed in your sketch? Also, are there conflicts between the static IP and the DHCP? Great sharing and thank you!

Also, in the next few days I plan to order a few more things for circuit building. Are there any preferred breadboards or other electrical components that are frequently used for our applications? Such as 555 timers, certain resistors, diodes, capacitors etc etc etc. I want to try to collect now what I will likely need later. The people on the arduino forum keep telling me to learn by building the example sketches, but I just can't mentally apply myself to something like that. I want to learn to serve this purpose, not really caring about blinking LEDs or pulling pot values etc.

And real quick, what is the method in code to hold a relay closed for upwards of 18-24 hours, is it (delay), (millis) or is all that relative to your RealTimeClock?

 

[akisunni]

Skybound,

In the case of delays, yes, you want to skip using them, until ... well, you need to use them. lol. In this case, due to needing to wait for the internet to work, you need to build in a delay so systems can wait for responses from external sources. I actually use delays a lot, there is significantly better ways of doing everything I will share with you. In one case, I sent a friend 70 lines of code that worked, he sent back 7 lines of code that worked properly. lol

I claim zero fame to coding. I build working solutions that I share with my coding friends, who improve them once they know exactly what it is that I am attempting to do.

Never confuse me with someone who codes. I mash code until it agrees with me.

 

[akisunni]

Quick update with Bud Porn

First the good news...

Big Girl is growing some beautiful budlets...

and now the bad news.

I have a bug issue... Both of these plants are due to be harvested around the Jan 10th give or take a week. I dont want to spray poison on the plants but this doesn't look good.

 

[Skybound]

Depending on what kind of bugs, Lady Bugs might solve the problem. King John C often suggests using Diatomaceous earth for soil born insects.

 

[akisunni]

Thank you, its available locally at the local big box supply house. I know what I am getting tomorrow... I noticed lots of extremely small crawlers in my desk veg space also. I will be liberally using this stuff. Thank you for the advice.

 

[susat66]

I think I can see the signs of spider mite , from the tiny yellow white spots. But without a loupe it's difficult, a predatory mite , you'll want Phytoseiulus Persimills if it is , use a sponge on either side of leaves and raise RH if possible. Hope you catch it, also remove all dead or dying leaves, I've been having problems with thrips and I still am not sure if I've got them as it's cost a few €€ but I'm still in veg.

 

[akisunni]

I think I can see the signs of spider mite , from the tiny yellow white spots. But without a loupe it's difficult, a predatory mite , you'll want Phytoseiulus Persimills if it is , use a sponge on either side of leaves and raise RH if possible. Hope you catch it, also remove all dead or dying leaves, I've been having problems with thrips and I still am not sure if I've got them as it's cost a few €€ but I'm still in veg.

I appear to have a very active environment with all kinds of different little bastards wandering around in the grow space. Its time to give the plant some special care tomorrow it appears.

 

[susat66]

Man I just looked again and you've got webs which means it's a infestation of spider mites quarantine the bad plant or just take them out now, to save you big girl who looks okay, but it has to be fast, you can spray cold water at the webs but mighty wash is meant to be good, your young girls can be sprayed.
Everyone get these buggers once, cleanliness is paramount as they can live in cracks and corners for ages. I hope u manage some control as very few if any growers actually succeed in total eradication. But as long as you separate the infected you can still get a harvest, if a plant is weak it's more susceptible, I truly hope you get it under control. Fans on the plants make their lives harder as well. Good Luck