Bud Rot & Mold vs. Microbes

The  obligate anaerobes would die. The difference between obligate and facultative anaerobes is the facultative ones can survive in the presence of oxygen, in other words, an aerobic environment.
And yes, it's an abbreviation of aerobic microbes.
Really? Facultative anaerobes would out-compete aerobes in an aerobic environment (leaf surface)? Isn't this a question of competition, coexistence, or symbiosis? I vote competition, and the aerobes would win in this case. But I honestly don't know.
 
Really? Facultative anaerobes would out-compete aerobes in an aerobic environment (leaf surface)? Isn't this a question of competition, coexistence, or symbiosis? I vote competition, and the aerobes would win in this case. But I honestly don't know.
I never said they would out compete them. They would survive though. If aerobes could out compete the facultative anaerobes there likely wouldn't be f. anaerobes in the first place.
They do coexist in nature already.
 
I never said they would out compete them. They would survive though. If aerobes could out compete the facultative anaerobes there likely wouldn't be f. anaerobes in the first place.
They do coexist in nature already.
I'm talking about on the leaf surface of a cannabis plant sprayed with a beneficial aerobe-rich foliar spray of, for example, aerated worm compost tea. And the answer to that, of course, would be variable. Yeah?
 
I'm talking about on the leaf surface of a cannabis plant sprayed with a beneficial aerobe-rich foliar spray of, for example, aerated worm compost tea. And the answer to that, of course, would be variable. Yeah?
To some extent, sure. The problem is that tea will have been colonized by all the microbes in the environment, not just aerobes, and not just beneficial aerobes.
And after spraying, those surfaces would be colonized by the microbes already in the environment, aerobic or not, assuming they were eliminated from the leaf surface in the first place.
That's why you have to respray beneficial microbes at regular intervals. I spray my plants with Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki to protect them against caterpillars, but it's not a one and done kind of spray. To maintain the kind of colony of the bacteria on the plant that I want it has to be maintained because it's not a closed system.
 
Wild thought... has anyone ever sprayed (diluted) kombucha? Looks like some people are using it for PM.

Another semi-wild thought... fulvic acid foliar spray, to feed the microbes (EMs) on the leaf surface. (I just got some fulvic acid... looking forward to using it.) I'm definitely gonna add fulvic to my aerated worm compost tea brew.

I just saw this on Zamnesia.com: "Applying fulvic acid as a foliar spray has another, curious benefit that is still not entirely understood: It can substitute sunlight. When it is overcast for a longer time period, a foliar application with fulvic acid can make photosynthesis continue despite less than optimal weather conditions." (Wish it would work on my solar panels!! ha ha)
 
That's why you have to respray beneficial microbes at regular intervals.
What do you think that interval is, Mel?

Ok it's made Today I made a gallon of it using potato flakes. It sits out in the shade near the plants and I'm on watch for some pretty serious bubbles in a few days. When they come it's ready and I'll drench and foliar with it. I'm getting excited!
:thumb:

I don't see any activity in mine for the first day, so be patient. I said in an earlier post that mine goes about 18 hours. Turns out a whole day and a half is 36 hours, not 18.
Huh. Who knew? :hmmmm:

I made some Tuesday morning to use Wed late afternoon when the light come back on.

When used as a drench be sure to dilute it at least 1:10. Foliar is recommended at 1:25 but I recently followed @Bode 's lead and used it straight up with no apparent negative effects, but too strong can damage roots when you drench.
 
Wild thought... has anyone ever sprayed (diluted) kombucha? Looks like some people are using it for PM.
I’ve recently used kombucha culture turn into acetic acid (vinegar), mixed with roasted egg shells, molasses. I have a jar closed lid (anaerobic) for over 3 weeks now. I haven’t sprayed yet.

Anaerobic
From left to right jars;
Banana peel fermented over a month
Diluted kombucha/eggshells/Molasses
Kombucha turned vinegar
Horsetail extract
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CFCA9C4C-3B7D-4CE4-A235-8786C5C14047.jpeg
 
Welcome, Scott. Practice makes perfect (well, perfect practice makes perfect, but you get the idea.)

If you want to share how you made your last batch maybe we can figure out together what went wrong.


Hey cbd, that would be a great alternative. @ChefDGreen is thinking more along the lines of an aerated tea as well so that would give an alternative to consider and compare and contrast. And your two clones that you've grown before with mold issues seems like perfect candidates!
Not sure, Azi.
I used worm castings, un-chlorinated water
Welcome, Scott. Practice makes perfect (well, perfect practice makes perfect, but you get the idea.)

If you want to share how you made your last batch maybe we can figure out together what went wrong.


Hey cbd, that would be a great alternative. @ChefDGreen is thinking more along the lines of an aerated tea as well so that would give an alternative to consider and compare and contrast. And your two clones that you've grown before with mold issues seems like perfect candidates!
Not sure, Azi.
I used worm castings, un-chlorinated water and sea salt. No potato flakes so I baked a couple of cubes and grinded them.
Put them in a 1.36 litre bottle and filled it to about one litre.
Closed the cap tight and all I see is condensation.
I did ask my GF to but some potato flakes next shopping.
Should I use a glass jar? Breathable lid?
Cheers!
 
I’ve recently used kombucha culture turn into acetic acid (vinegar), mixed with roasted egg shells, molasses. I have a jar closed lid (anaerobic) for over 3 weeks now. I haven’t sprayed yet.
watch out for molasses. here in the U.S. all molasses is labeled with the Calif. Prop. 65 heavy metals warning.

vinegar may not be so great as a foliar spray... may need to dilute a lot.

happy growing! 🪴
 
What do you think that interval is, Mel?
BTK needs to be reapplied about once a week. Every 7 to 10 days is the recommendation.
But that's a preventative. You're trying to maintain a population of the bacteria on the plant. If we're trying to use it as a preventive treatment for humid conditions then the BTK recommendation seems to be a good starting point to me.
If we're using this the way some of us were thinking earlier, ie before and/or after rain then I guess it doesn't matter too much.
 
Not sure, Azi.
I used worm castings, un-chlorinated water and sea salt. No potato flakes so I baked a couple of cubes and grinded them.
Put them in a 1.36 litre bottle and filled it to about one litre.
Closed the cap tight and all I see is condensation.
I did ask my GF to but some potato flakes next shopping.
Should I use a glass jar? Breathable lid?
Cheers!
Time and temperature are both factors as well as the ingredients. Don't know about cubes, but as long as they're a starch without a ton of chemicals I imagine they'd be ok.

I do mine in a plastic half liter yogurt containers with a solid lid. Glass jar will work fine as well.
 
This is based on what I have been doing in my current grow; 20 gal ceramic container I have gathered a mix of garden weeds. In the bunch we have confrey, nettle, horsetail, plantain, dandelion, clover, different grasses and other weeds. Lets call this organic matter.

Hypothesis; by taking all the green manure from the area where the cannabis phenos are, I am taking a vast sample of pathogenes, fungi, microbes, yeast... ? later on defoliation I started adding organic matter form the cannabis and the tomatos.

I dump all organic matter and added rain water, I have also added worm castings and molasses to this. Left untouched for several weeks, actually it was running long time before I started using it . The organic matter ferments and decomposes forming a floating layer that creates a barrier reducing the amount of oxygen touching the surface of the body of water.
This is why I call my version of teas Anaerobic. there has to be less the 18-22% oxygen in my mix counting that there is no air pump and I added a 2-4 inch layer of organic matter that sit on top blocking even more the Oxygen molecules. I didnt put a lid on this one.

I had this tea running for at least 4 months, constantly feeding organic matter and rain water. I would use a ratio of 250 ml tea to 5 gal rain water when I watered the plants. As they grew I up to 1 lt tea per 5 gal rain water. For foliar spray 100ml to a liter rain water and neem oil each time. When I used foliar feeding with any tea I would use one spoon neem oil.

I have made every tea from green manure tea, to livestock tea, to compost and seaweed tea, all have this same model. I dont consider my teas Aerobic. I try not to disturb the content, it also helps with avoiding propagation of the heavy smell.

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This is a different setup, plastic wrap and lid sealed Anaerobic horsetail/nettle/molasses
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Instant reaction when the jar is opened.
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Used as foliar all thru Veg cycle. And will possibly continue on flowering.
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Another good read,
I’m sorry but this looks like a fast track to making someone sick. If it smells bad it probably is bad.
 
I’m sorry but this looks like a fast track to making someone sick. If it smells bad it probably is bad.

No need to be sorry.

I can tell few messages back my approach to anerobic teas is out of your comfort zone and probably for others as well. And I get it, its not for everyone...

Even if you think the smell is going to make anyone sick, I just invite you to follow 6 months of the work done, very well documented with over 200 photos in my current grow, all I have used has been that poddle of water and green manure/organic matter (please read about it, its probably your ticket to save hundreds of dollars in fertilizer). I put my hands in that water, water plants with that, not only cannabis but a whole vegetable garden and I eat the veggies. I dont get sick sorry to say.

The whole point of my experience is not to messure how fetid or bad smells the organic natural fertilizer that can be made spending 0$, rather I am showing my take on an absolute free way to create liquid ready to use by the PLANT fertilizer, made for you by you to suit your growing needs. What ever "bad microbe" or pathogen you think can hurt me, will first pass thru the cannabis plant root system and the foliage. Creating a bio security plan is the only way to NOT GET A HUMAN SICK, plants dont seem to get sick they actually love this.

I feel everyone has strong points and will defend them at all cost. I have only my journal, my notes, and best of all the documented photos of how all my plants have been free of pest and have grown out of proportion just by using this anerobic repulsive looking smells bad its probably bad watering regime...

I am here to create a dialogue based on evidence. Not trying to create an agenda, Im not selling a cult idea or a subcription to a great garden, Im just showing publicly how I have been doing it for the past 5 years, 100% beyond organic.


:peace:
 
watch out for molasses. here in the U.S. all molasses is labeled with the Calif. Prop. 65 heavy metals warning.

vinegar may not be so great as a foliar spray... may need to dilute a lot.

happy growing! 🪴

Thank you for the information, I have picked a organic unsulfered molasses made in paraguay.

I agree about the vinegar, I need to think about the dilution ratio.
 
No need to be sorry.

I can tell few messages back my approach to anerobic teas is out of your comfort zone and probably for others as well. And I get it, its not for everyone...

Even if you think the smell is going to make anyone sick, I just invite you to follow 6 months of the work done, very well documented with over 200 photos in my current grow, all I have used has been that poddle of water and green manure/organic matter (please read about it, its probably your ticket to save hundreds of dollars in fertilizer). I put my hands in that water, water plants with that, not only cannabis but a whole vegetable garden and I eat the veggies. I dont get sick sorry to say.

The whole point of my experience is not to messure how fetid or bad smells the organic natural fertilizer that can be made spending 0$, rather I am showing my take on an absolute free way to create liquid ready to use by the PLANT fertilizer, made for you by you to suit your growing needs. What ever "bad microbe" or pathogen you think can hurt me, will first pass thru the cannabis plant root system and the foliage. Creating a bio security plan is the only way to NOT GET A HUMAN SICK, plants dont seem to get sick they actually love this.

I feel everyone has strong points and will defend them at all cost. I have only my journal, my notes, and best of all the documented photos of how all my plants have been free of pest and have grown out of proportion just by using this anerobic repulsive looking smells bad its probably bad watering regime...

I am here to create a dialogue based on evidence. Not trying to create an agenda, Im not selling a cult idea or a subcription to a great garden, Im just showing publicly how I have been doing it for the past 5 years, 100% beyond organic.


:peace:
You’re completely bypassing mother natures system. You’ve made your own bottled nutrients. Organically derived perhaps, but not living soil driven. I prefer to let my plants decide what becomes mineralized.

You should check out Dr. Elaine’s work and see what the last 40 years of scientific research has uncovered.
 
Thank you for the information, I have picked a organic unsulfered molasses made in paraguay.
In the U.S., even organic molasses has the heavy metals warning. Organic agriculture is not immune to the problem of heavy metals building up in soil due to fertilizers. I think molasses for human consumption is usually made from sugar cane, which grows and pulls contaminants out of the soil much as cannabis does.
 
You’re completely bypassing mother natures system. You’ve made your own bottled nutrients. Organically derived perhaps, but not living soil driven. I prefer to let my plants decide what becomes mineralized.

You should check out Dr. Elaine’s work and see what the last 40 years of scientific research has uncovered.

I will check it, thank you for the book suggestion.

Are you reffering to this?


Canada has already something they call

I would like your thoughts on how I am bypassing mother nature? arent we all bypassing mother nature indoors/outdoors with greenhouses and hopphouses, with chemical nuts and fancy soil mixes that come from labs?
I havent been doing any of that, at least not this time around.

and how do you define bottled nutrients?

I know very well my roll as a grower is to provide available ready to use nutrients for the plant to take when ever she decides. I chose to do it simple and cost free (for the most part) some trace elements like calcium, mag, manganese, iron... are hard to come by so I had to use store bought bone meal and other soil amendments.

I dont follow what is the point you wish to make. My apologies for that.

But in all fairness to the work many are doing like opening a thread to discuss with FACTS about the use of microbes of any KIND (aerobic or anaerobic) to enhace cannabis performace agaisnt pests mold pm and others, lets chip in with a positive mindset, at the end of the day its just information and the more we can curate the facts the better it ends for people actually wanting to replicate any form of microbe culture.

I dont have all the answers thats why I am here. And if at any point I make a mistake trust me the plants will show and I wont hide it.

:passitleft:
 
In the U.S., even organic molasses has the heavy metals warning. Organic agriculture is not immune to the problem of heavy metals building up in soil due to fertilizers. I think molasses for human consumption is usually made from sugar cane, which grows and pulls contaminants out of the soil much as cannabis does.

I feel you on this. I hardly ever trust any label these days. A organic certification can be paid for. That being said the way I use molasses goes thru a fermentation process where the sugar from the molasses is used to feed the anaerobic culture. I have no way of knowing if the heavy minerals are still present or not, I would have to lab test the solution and I dont have time or budget for that.

Organic farming allows a specific and messured amount of chemicals that can be used as fertilizers and pest control.
This is one example of a use of chemical to treat grape vines in France and Europe and has passed legislation for use in organic farming... I would never use that.

the article in french is more complete.
 
I feel you on this. I hardly ever trust any label these days. A organic certification can be paid for. That being said the way I use molasses goes thru a fermentation process where the sugar from the molasses is used to feed the anaerobic culture. I have no way of knowing if the heavy minerals are still present or not, I would have to lab test the solution and I dont have time or budget for that.
Are you using the molasses specifically for its sugar content? If so, you could use organic apple juice instead. If you are also using the molasses for it's mineral content, there are better sources for those minerals. Molasses contains calcium, magnesium, potassium, phosphorus, and iron. For these minerals I rely on the following dry organic fertilizers, but they are not solution-grade except the potassium sulfate:
  • seabird guano (Ca, P)
  • dolomite lime (Ca, Mg)
  • oyster shell powder (Ca)
  • greensand (K, Fe, Si)
  • gypsum (Ca, S)
  • potassium sulfate (K, S)
 
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