Bud Rot & Mold vs. Microbes

I made some Lactic acid bacteria a couple of years ago and stored it 50/50 in molasses and most of the time in a fridge but last 6 months in room temp. It has an alcohol smell now. I tried making bokashi with it anyways and it's still cooking so I don't know if it's working or not. Time to check in a few days. I'll know by the smell if it worked I'm thinking.
Any thoughts on the alcohol smell and it's viability?
 
There are definitely two very different camps on this whole 'microbe' thing, and I appreciate the passion and respectful engagement from both sides in our discussions. I know I've learned some new things already and am looking forward to hopefully positive results at harvest time.

Chef's concerns about anaerobic microbes and the potential harm they can bring are well placed and are things we should all factor in as we proceed. Dani and Bode's results have not shown those concerns translate into problems for them, but good to keep in mind, small sample size and all.

And both camps are well represented with Chef and cbdhemp bringing the aerobic school of thought to the table, and dani and Bode sharing their experience with the anaerobic side, and Mel dropping knowledge bombs, so thank you all for your imput. :thanks:
 
Are you using the molasses specifically for its sugar content? If so, you could use organic apple juice instead. If you are also using the molasses for it's mineral content, there are better sources for those minerals. Molasses contains calcium, magnesium, potassium, phosphorus, and iron. For these minerals I rely on the following dry organic fertilizers, but they are not solution-grade except the potassium sulfate:
  • seabird guano (Ca, P)
  • dolomite lime (Ca, Mg)
  • oyster shell powder (Ca)
  • greensand (K, Fe, Si)
  • gypsum (Ca, S)
  • potassium sulfate (K, S)

Awesome list, thanks for sharing.

I have used molasses a handful of times and has been small amounts 750ml per grow. 2 things still make me use it; very cheap ready to use source of potassium, iron, calcium and secondly the sugar content I now discovered can and will feed anaerobes in the culture.

But I am not strapped to one thing, things change every year. I will do my due diligence on these products and the availability around the place I live.

:passitleft:
 
Time and temperature are both factors as well as the ingredients. Don't know about cubes, but as long as they're a starch without a ton of chemicals I imagine they'd be ok.

I do mine in a plastic half liter yogurt containers with a solid lid. Glass jar will work fine as well.
Thanks, Azi. I did mine in a 1.36 litre , thich plastic bottle and filled to a litre, original cap. There is condensation above so there was some reaction but no foamy bubbles. Getting potatoe flakes next shopping and will rety. Kept it at room temperature.
Cheers
 
Wild thought... has anyone ever sprayed (diluted) kombucha? Looks like some people are using it for PM.

Another semi-wild thought... fulvic acid foliar spray, to feed the microbes (EMs) on the leaf surface. (I just got some fulvic acid... looking forward to using it.) I'm definitely gonna add fulvic to my aerated worm compost tea brew.

I just saw this on Zamnesia.com: "Applying fulvic acid as a foliar spray has another, curious benefit that is still not entirely understood: It can substitute sunlight. When it is overcast for a longer time period, a foliar application with fulvic acid can make photosynthesis continue despite less than optimal weather conditions." (Wish it would work on my solar panels!! ha ha)
Just realized this... since I plan to make aerated worm tea, looks like it contains humic acids. Vermicompost contains humic acids. I'll throw in some fulvic as well in the brew.

Food grade fulvic is good for human consumption, too. One source is Shilajit. Now I want to add fulvic to a superfood kombucha home brew!!
 
Just realized this... since I plan to make aerated worm tea, looks like it contains humic acids. Vermicompost contains humic acids. I'll throw in some fulvic as well in the brew.

Food grade fulvic is good for human consumption, too. One source is Shilajit. Now I want to add fulvic to a superfood kombucha home brew!!
Interesting, Kombucha? I make it & drink it daily but never remotely associated with my grow.
 
The batch made some bubbles so I strained it and sprayed the plants full power with it. Tomorrow will be drench day. Diluted. It's been brewing for 2.5 days.

Not much happened in the crock. The potato flakes were on the bottom and some material floated. It smelled slightly of nature working. No big smell or stinky smell. I don't know what it should look and smell like. It was yellow/brownish and a nature smell after filtered through cheesecloth.

It went on today!

 
Highya SO,

You did right! The potato flakes (rice) doesn't get used up. The starch (carbohydrate) is food for the microbes. Did you use leaf mold for a microbe starter? Mine always has a little earthy smell. I don't strain mine to apply to the roots (drench). Only strain to put in sprayer for budrot protection. You did good! Happy Smokin'
 
Highya SO,

You did right! The potato flakes (rice) doesn't get used up. The starch (carbohydrate) is food for the microbes. Did you use leaf mold for a microbe starter? Mine always has a little earthy smell. I don't strain mine to apply to the roots (drench). Only strain to put in sprayer for budrot protection. You did good! Happy Smokin'
Good to head Bode! I wasn't sure. Yes a nice earthy smell. I think I did use leaf mold. I took it from my pile of lawn and fall mulched tree leaves. This spring I reached in down low and pulled out some nice hardly composted material with wrigglers and all. Now a month or more later it's so dry there were no worms but I reached in and took a little anyway. There's life in there, I just hope the drought didn't kill off too many of our micro friends.
Next time I'll know to only strain enough for the spraying. Good tip!

So if I want to start to develop the microherd on the plant, how often do you suspect spraying? In addition to combatting before a rain in PM season. Once a week?

One more Q. How long do you keep a batch around?
 
I use the batch right up. I remember him saying the microbes won't live too long after the 2-3 days incubation. I think 1/2 to 1 day. I only spray during budrot season. The day before 60-70 degree days with humidity 70 percent or over, I spray librally to runoff. Don't forget budrot affects larger buds (plants with larger buds) without enough air movement to dry the buds quick enough. Happy Smokin'
 
So if I want to start to develop the microherd on the plant, how often do you suspect spraying? In addition to combatting before a rain in PM season. Once a week?
That's a good question and not one answered in the Jadam book. And keep in mind we are really using this for an application different from what was suggested.

Chef and cbdh both have suggested a weekly application of microbes for foliar, at least with the their aerobic version. But the same should apply here as well.

One more Q. How long do you keep a batch around?
You don't. Use it at peak bubbles and start a new batch for next time. Master Cho says after peak bubbles, the microbes die off quickly so it's not much good for a microbial product. He says you have about a 12 hour window around peak bubbles. Afterwards, it's good as fertilizer though, he says.
 
Highya Guys,

I stand corrected on the diluting of JADAM Microbe Solution. I have read that one source has said that it will burn roots. So, I will dilute the solution before applying or recommending. Sorry! :green_heart: Happy Smokin'
 
Does it even work on buds with caterpillars? Most of the rot I saw started with those little bastards.
That's a good question. I would imagine the rot comes in because of the wastes of the caterpillars and those are getting broken down by microbes but in the process leave behind a moist environment conducive to the bad microbes. Soooo, it would seem like if the JMS works for other pathogens it should for this as well. :hmmmm:
 
BTW, I haven't read about applying it to leaves and buds. I used to do it with Lactobacillus serum. Happy Smokin'
 
This is based on what I have been doing in my current grow; 20 gal ceramic container I have gathered a mix of garden weeds. In the bunch we have confrey, nettle, horsetail, plantain, dandelion, clover, different grasses and other weeds. Lets call this organic matter.

Hypothesis; by taking all the green manure from the area where the cannabis phenos are, I am taking a vast sample of pathogenes, fungi, microbes, yeast... ? later on defoliation I started adding organic matter form the cannabis and the tomatos.

I dump all organic matter and added rain water, I have also added worm castings and molasses to this. Left untouched for several weeks, actually it was running long time before I started using it . The organic matter ferments and decomposes forming a floating layer that creates a barrier reducing the amount of oxygen touching the surface of the body of water.
This is why I call my version of teas Anaerobic. there has to be less the 18-22% oxygen in my mix counting that there is no air pump and I added a 2-4 inch layer of organic matter that sit on top blocking even more the Oxygen molecules. I didnt put a lid on this one.

I had this tea running for at least 4 months, constantly feeding organic matter and rain water. I would use a ratio of 250 ml tea to 5 gal rain water when I watered the plants. As they grew I up to 1 lt tea per 5 gal rain water. For foliar spray 100ml to a liter rain water and neem oil each time. When I used foliar feeding with any tea I would use one spoon neem oil.

I have made every tea from green manure tea, to livestock tea, to compost and seaweed tea, all have this same model. I dont consider my teas Aerobic. I try not to disturb the content, it also helps with avoiding propagation of the heavy smell.

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This is a different setup, plastic wrap and lid sealed Anaerobic horsetail/nettle/molasses
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Instant reaction when the jar is opened.
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Used as foliar all thru Veg cycle. And will possibly continue on flowering.
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Another good read,


When I look back at my post here; I probably failed to mention that I did not use the big open pot with all the organic matter floating on it to foliar spray/feed, I only used it for watering the roots.
The amount of pathogens do raise a flag for me so for all my foliar feed I make small 1-2 ltr maison jars that are all air tight sealed and a lot more controlled.

The routine has been;
2-3 times a week “liquid fertilizer” let’s called it that way for the organic matter tea, that goes direct to the base of the plant avoiding contact with the foliage.

After every bending or training I would foliar feed a different mix coming from a sealed jar.

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Hope this helps
:Namaste:
 
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