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FelipeBlu's Auto Jack & Kryptonite - PSMini LED - Root Pouch - Recipe 420

Thread starter #1


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Howdy Fellow Growers,

This is my second indoor grow. The first was last fall and was a single plant (erroneously identified as an Auto Blueberry - ask me if you’re interested) under CFLs. That grow yielded 29g (dry). I have a cheap Chinese 2x2x4 tent in the garage, and have just ordered a Perfect Sun Mini.

Soaked the Auto Kryptonite seed in pH 6.4 (with 2ml/1gal Alaskan kelp plant food) for 18 hrs and then dropped point up into a 4x4x6 plastic pot filled with a pre-moistened mix of 70% washed pumice (Dry Stall) and 30% Recipe 420. Sprout broke surface on 1/10 and is currently working on the second set of leaves.

For the Auto Jack Herer, I prepared a 5 gallon Root Pouch (poly-fabric) by putting it through a quick wash in the machine with 1T bleach (hey, it was hanging around at the garden center - who knows WHAT is embedded in it). I then put ~2 gallons of 50% washed pumice and 50% homemade “booster soil” (ask me if you’re interested) in the bottom, shaped a bit lower in the center. On top of that, I put ~3 gallons of 50% washed pumice and 50% Recipe 420. After pre-moistening to runoff with pH 6.4 (also with 2ml/gallon Alaskan kelp), I put this in the tent with a heating pad. After 24 hours, the tent and the soil inside the pot were at 72F (the garage averages ~65F). Meanwhile, after I soaked the (huge!) seed for 12 hours, I noticed it had cracked open. Into the pot it went.

Both the Kryptonite and the Jack(ie) are in the tent at ~73-76F/70-74%rh. Until the Mini arrives, the K has (2) 27W 5000k CFLs over her, and the J has a single one over the spot where she will sprout. I’m going to run this grow 24 hours on (constant light), unless Neil (Perfect Sun) tells me that’s bad for the light.

I guess that’s all for now. No photos of interest yet. Everyone has seen photos of seedlings
Thread starter #2


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Actually, here’s a bit more info on several aspects of my growing technique.

Watering: I weigh the pot after filling it, but before I add water. It isn’t bone dry. The pumice usually still has moisture in it from washing, and the bagged soil is usually damp. I then weigh it after I saturate the soil to runoff. Then I don’t water again until the weight is back down nearly to dry. I believe this encourages the plant to follow the moisture as it recedes due to evaporation through the fabric pot. This approach appeared to work on my first grow.

When I water, I slowly drop/trickle it into the soil outside the “drip line”. This keeps the area around the stem from becoming too moist. I think it also encourages the roots to grow out laterally.

On the last grow, I used vinegar to adjust the pH, but it isn’t stable. This time, I’m going to try citric acid. I understand that it also neutralizes chloramines.


Well-Known Member
I'll subb for this one, I am going to grow some Kryptonite photos here soon. I am going to go ahead and get my seeds on my next order. I heard it is a awesome strain. I didn't know they had a auto kryptonite, hopefully it will be awesome also lol. Best of luck to you.[emoji100][emoji111]️
Thread starter #4


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Welcome ECG! Thanks for checking in.

According to the seedbank, this Auto Kryptonite is from Pyramid seeds, and unlike the indica-dominant photo out of Oaksterdam, it is described as a very fast sativa-dominant (80/20) version that is the result of a cross with (a landrace?) strain in Spain’s Granada mountains.

Who knows? My last grow was from the same seedbank, and clearly wasn’t as described. We’ll see...

So far, she certainly seems eager.
Thread starter #7


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Welcome InTheShed and Pterostychus! Thanks for checking in.

Okay Shed. I'll post one tonight after work. She (Krypta) is really taking off. Don't know if it's the 24-hr light or genetics. I'm just staying out of the way for now.

In addition to starting one seed in a smaller pot that will require a transplant, and starting the other seed directly in the final pot, I'm planning on testing a couple of other variables (hopefully it won't be too many to be able to draw any conclusions)

On one plant, I plan to do a fairly simple LST - just pull the main stem over to one side, and then spread the side stems from each node so they can grow without interfering with each other. On the other plant, I plan to top after the third node (hopefully before day 21), then bend each of the two resulting 'main stems' over as above, then spread the side stems as above.

During the last grow, I really didn't add any nutrients - just 2ml/gal of Dyna-Grow ProteKt during veg, and 4ml/gal of organic unsulphured molasses a couple of times during flowering. I didn't experience any deficiencies - just very minor fan leaf yellowing during the final week. But I was left wondering if I could have gotten more growth during veg and larger/denser buds during flowering. This time, in addition to the ProteKt, I'm going to try pushing some nutrients on one of the plants. I'm going to use Dyna-Grow 'Grow' during veg, and Dyna-Grow 'Bloom' during flowering. Probably start with 2ml/gal and see if I can increase from there without issues.

Finally, I'm upgrading my lights from CFLs to a Perfect Sun Mini (60 3W Bridgelux LEDs drawing 125W from wall). Of course, this will be for both plants.

Any thoughts?


Member of the Month: Jan 2018, Nov 2018 - Grow Journal of the Month: Aug 2018 - Plant of the Month: Oct 2018
On the last grow, I used vinegar to adjust the pH, but it isn’t stable. This time, I’m going to try citric acid. I understand that it also neutralizes chloramines.
I hadn't heard that about citric acid neutralizing chloromine (which is what my water has) but would the amount needed to lower the pH be enough to dissipate the chloromine?

My thoughts are that you have a plan and you should stick with it. You may decide as you go that you want to raise or lower your nute strengths, but other than that it's great to have a plan going in. Keeps you on track and keeps you from second guessing every decision. Every grow will teach you something regardless how you plan it.