Help my plant

Km021

Well-Known Member
Hi, im growing silver haze in a pot outdoor/sun and recently i have noticed that lower leaves start to drying and burning from edges and tips, first it is appeared on bigger leaves randomly all over my plant , starts to wilting inside and drops easily, now the new leaves tips also on cola start to show tip burnt. My plant is turning to yellow a bit and i found some purple stems also. Should i flush it?
Could you please help me?

Im using biobizz nutrients
Biobizz Light mix soil
Watering when i test the soil is dry, i dont feed her heavily so im confused between nutrients burn and potassium Deficiency im not sure, PH problem? @Emilya

Thanks

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Hi, im growing silver haze in a pot outdoor/sun and recently i have noticed that lower leaves start to drying and burning from edges and tips, first it is appeared on bigger leaves randomly all over my plant , starts to wilting inside and drops easily, now the new leaves tips also on cola start to show tip burnt. My plant is turning to yellow a bit and i found some purple stems also. Should i flush it?
Could you please help me?

Im using biobizz nutrients
Biobizz Light mix soil
Watering when i test the soil is dry, i dont feed her heavily so im confused between nutrients burn and potassium Deficiency im not sure, PH problem? @Emilya

Thanks
You are just starting to flower, so the nutrition needs have changed, and now you need a large amount of potassium, and that is a mobile element, so when the plant suffers a deficiency it will start stealing the needed mineral from the lower leaves, moving up the stalk as needed. Potassium deficiency presents as an elongated tip burn and yellow leaf margins... so this is pretty much confirmed with the pictures of your plant.

You are growing outdoors, so your plant's needs are greater than typically recommended for indoor plants. So this begs the question, how are you using your nutes? Are you feeding with the full recommended amount or maybe a bit more? This could be the sole reason for your deficiency. Second, it could be the pH of your incoming fluids. Make certain that you are in the correct range, preferably at the bottom of that range.

You have a large plant, but there are no signs that I can see that indicate the roots are needing more room. This would typically be indicated by fully yellowing leaves at the very bottom of the plant... you are not getting that.

Lastly, a flush is exactly the opposite of what is needed here. There is only one deficiency showing, so you are not having a salt based lockout. A flush would just remove nutrients from the soil, would not add any more for the plant, and would make the problem worse.
 
You have a large plant, but there are no signs that I can see that indicate the roots are needing more room. This would typically be indicated by fully yellowing leaves at the very bottom of the plant... you are not getting that.


i literally think she's only days away from that. i agree most of the issue is underneath, which is consistent with a nute pull for flower. if it's going hard now, i'm wondering if it's going to have enough room in the bucket to fix.

i've always found it easier to fix nute issues in a bugger bucket. that can't be 5 gallon even. i think there might still be some stretch to go too.


i've run rootbound plants to the end no trouble. it's a given in hempy actually. i find it more difficult in soil to do. however, that is not a huge plant for an outdoor.

edit : to be clear on the topic - a larger bucket simply buys time to fix the issue. nothing fancy about it. once deeper in flower it'd be best to run what you have though.
 
You are just starting to flower, so the nutrition needs have changed, and now you need a large amount of potassium, and that is a mobile element, so when the plant suffers a deficiency it will start stealing the needed mineral from the lower leaves, moving up the stalk as needed. Potassium deficiency presents as an elongated tip burn and yellow leaf margins... so this is pretty much confirmed with the pictures of your plant.

You are growing outdoors, so your plant's needs are greater than typically recommended for indoor plants. So this begs the question, how are you using your nutes? Are you feeding with the full recommended amount or maybe a bit more? This could be the sole reason for your deficiency. Second, it could be the pH of your incoming fluids. Make certain that you are in the correct range, preferably at the bottom of that range.

You have a large plant, but there are no signs that I can see that indicate the roots are needing more room. This would typically be indicated by fully yellowing leaves at the very bottom of the plant... you are not getting that.

Lastly, a flush is exactly the opposite of what is needed here. There is only one deficiency showing, so you are not having a salt based lockout. A flush would just remove nutrients from the soil, would not add any more for the plant, and would make the problem worse.
Thanks for your reply, as i said i dont feed her heavily, (1/2 dosage of recommendation)

The last feed was about 400 ppm
And i have transplanted to this pot 3 weeks ago with no damage on roots.

My soil EC is 1.2 slightly acidic ph around 6.4 - 6.5 it contains lime so ph might drops a lil bit, IDK im confused. 2 week i did not feed her only RO water with root nuts and cal mag, coz biobizz says that the light mix soil contains EC for 2 weeks, and No need to feed the plant by nutes in first 2 weeks.

So what should i do first? I feed her with bloom nutes?


My big doubt is:

When I prepare the solution for her at ph 6.5, soil contains lime so the ph will drop for sure, i was wondering that in low acidic ph ranges potassium gets lockout to the roots, thats why i have potassium Deficiency signs, thats why i asked “should i flush her ?” to solve the ph problem in the media.

what you think?
 
go with em's suggestion of a bump in feed first. there may not have been enough in the soil for a flowering plant.
it's a little of what i was thinking about a bigger pot. bio-bizz does better in bigger pots. you have to feed in flower though no matter. the soil alone doesn't have enough.
 
Thanks for your reply, as i said i dont feed her heavily, (1/2 dosage of recommendation)

The last feed was about 400 ppm
And i have transplanted to this pot 3 weeks ago with no damage on roots.

My soil EC is 1.2 slightly acidic ph around 6.4 - 6.5 it contains lime so ph might drops a lil bit, IDK im confused. 2 week i did not feed her only RO water with root nuts and cal mag, coz biobizz says that the light mix soil contains EC for 2 weeks, and No need to feed the plant by nutes in first 2 weeks.

So what should i do first? I feed her with bloom nutes?


My big doubt is:

When I prepare the solution for her at ph 6.5, soil contains lime so the ph will drop for sure, i was wondering that in low acidic ph ranges potassium gets lockout to the roots, thats why i have potassium Deficiency signs, thats why i asked “should i flush her ?” to solve the ph problem in the media.

what you think?
Since you have bought into the bro-science belief of feeding 1/2 dosage and not feeding for the first 2 weeks, you got what you got, and you now have deficiencies. Feed full strength. The nute company has no incentive to lie to you about the dosage, despite what naysayers on the internet have to say about this subject.

Yes, feed bloom nutes, full strength... now.

You do not understand pH or why we adjust it... again, bro-internet-science has gotten you confused. The ONLY thing that matters is the incoming fluid pH, because when you water your soil to saturation, the only pH that column of saturated soil could possibly have, IS THE PH OF THAT WATER.

You do not have a pH problem in your media... it is set to the high end of the scale for a very good reason. If you come in at the low end of the scale, at 6.3 pH, where the most nutrients are the most mobile in the soil, the higher base pH of your soil causes that column of water to start to drift upwards, effectively moving the pH of your nutes through the ENTIRE usuable pH range. Without this drift, this doesn't happen. Also, if you adjust to 6.5 pH, you have already missed the lower part of the range, from 6.2-6.5, and any nutrients most mobile down in that part of the range are mostly ignored.

Please rethink what you think you know about adjusting pH in a closed container of soil. PH is described as a range for a reason... it isn't just one number that you are shooting for.
 
go with em's suggestion of a bump in feed first. there may not have been enough in the soil for a flowering plant.
it's a little of what i was thinking about a bigger pot. bio-bizz does better in bigger pots. you have to feed in flower though no matter. the soil alone doesn't have enough.
it's rootbound and needs an up pot to begin. should solve for a bunch.

She has been planted in a 9 litre air pot (first pot), n i opend the air pot, it was fully covered with white tiny roots (fully bounded) n it came out hard as rock, like a mold, it was like the roots made a shield around the soil.

Was Hard AF, even i was not able to squeez the Soil for root expantion (like @Emilya ’s dad, lol)

After transplanting in new pot:
i use humidity prob before watering her, when i dip the prob in rootball i can feel it that it is hard and blocks the prob to dips in by roots but when i dip it in new rounded soil layers it is dippin easy n I dont feel like rootbound.

I mean maybe the roots got stocked in last rootball n hard to expand to new soil layes?!?
 
Since you have bought into the bro-science belief of feeding 1/2 dosage and not feeding for the first 2 weeks, you got what you got, and you now have deficiencies. Feed full strength. The nute company has no incentive to lie to you about the dosage, despite what naysayers on the internet have to say about this subject.

Yes, feed bloom nutes, full strength... now.

You do not understand pH or why we adjust it... again, bro-internet-science has gotten you confused. The ONLY thing that matters is the incoming fluid pH, because when you water your soil to saturation, the only pH that column of saturated soil could possibly have, IS THE PH OF THAT WATER.

You do not have a pH problem in your media... it is set to the high end of the scale for a very good reason. If you come in at the low end of the scale, at 6.3 pH, where the most nutrients are the most mobile in the soil, the higher base pH of your soil causes that column of water to start to drift upwards, effectively moving the pH of your nutes through the ENTIRE usuable pH range. Without this drift, this doesn't happen. Also, if you adjust to 6.5 pH, you have already missed the lower part of the range, from 6.2-6.5, and any nutrients most mobile down in that part of the range are mostly ignored.

Please rethink what you think you know about adjusting pH in a closed container of soil. PH is described as a range for a reason... it isn't just one number that you are shooting for.
 
After transplanting in new pot:
i use humidity prob before watering her, when i dip the prob in rootball i can feel it that it is hard and blocks the prob to dips in by roots but when i dip it in new rounded soil layers it is dippin easy n I dont feel like rootbound.

I mean maybe the roots got stocked in last rootball n hard to expand to new soil layes?!?


that probe is not a useful tool. the roots will expand in to the new soil no issue.
it's become clear it's more of a nute / ph problem.

check @Emilya 's post above.
 
Hi, im growing silver haze in a pot outdoor/sun and recently i have noticed that lower leaves start to drying and burning from edges and tips, first it is appeared on bigger leaves randomly all over my plant , starts to wilting inside and drops easily, now the new leaves tips also on cola start to show tip burnt. My plant is turning to yellow a bit and i found some purple stems also. Should i flush it?
Could you please help me?

Im using biobizz nutrients
Biobizz Light mix soil
Watering when i test the soil is dry, i dont feed her heavily so im confused between nutrients burn and potassium Deficiency im not sure, PH problem? @Emilya

Thanks

BAC874C0-12EB-479E-A65C-A6CD95FA92DD.jpeg


F5B9F797-7296-4C00-88B5-08EA18939AE7.jpeg


B61D0EA9-4B71-4CE2-9FB2-BBA2AC2CD81D.jpeg


D0BB70B4-BFF2-4BE6-8447-42B9E64FAE75.jpeg


61F6FBD7-3480-4725-BA6D-7A147A19BFEF.jpeg


CBF65FAE-D772-4291-8956-5C3140601BB1.jpeg


72DACC14-9891-4F74-8F1F-DE7FF5570E4C.jpeg


19EE36CE-E57E-4E03-A336-7461662D270A.jpeg


EAA8A19B-B15D-44CE-98AF-E22800A4D5C1.jpeg
Since you have bought into the bro-science belief of feeding 1/2 dosage and not feeding for the first 2 weeks, you got what you got, and you now have deficiencies. Feed full strength. The nute company has no incentive to lie to you about the dosage, despite what naysayers on the internet have to say about this subject.

Yes, feed bloom nutes, full strength... now.

You do not understand pH or why we adjust it... again, bro-internet-science has gotten you confused. The ONLY thing that matters is the incoming fluid pH, because when you water your soil to saturation, the only pH that column of saturated soil could possibly have, IS THE PH OF THAT WATER.

You do not have a pH problem in your media... it is set to the high end of the scale for a very good reason. If you come in at the low end of the scale, at 6.3 pH, where the most nutrients are the most mobile in the soil, the higher base pH of your soil causes that column of water to start to drift upwards, effectively moving the pH of your nutes through the ENTIRE usuable pH range. Without this drift, this doesn't happen. Also, if you adjust to 6.5 pH, you have already missed the lower part of the range, from 6.2-6.5, and any nutrients most mobile down in that part of the range are mostly ignored.

Please rethink what you think you know about adjusting pH in a closed container of soil. PH is described as a range for a reason... it isn't just one number that you are shooting for.
Hey @Emilya

This is what i got after feeding full bloom dosage as you said, it is getting worst and it is spreading up, iDK what to do? Need some help thanks.
@bluter @Growings

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That's looking a bit more serious, something is definitely not right
You're feeding 2-3ml Bloom /2-3ml Gro / Vera or Alga plus 1ml CaMg @ pH around 6.2/3 right?
If that is not working, something is going wrong with you pH or base water, there is no other possible rationale
 
Hey thanks for reply,

1 ml GHE cal mag
1 ml/L bio grow biobizz
1.5 ml/L bio bloom biobizz
0.5 ml/L canna rhizatonic for roots
0.5 trace canna mono

Ph around 6,3 to 6.5


My media: biobizz light mix with Ec 1.2
 
That's looking a bit more serious, something is definitely not right
You're feeding 2-3ml Bloom /2-3ml Gro / Vera or Alga plus 1ml CaMg @ pH around 6.2/3 right?
If that is not working, something is going wrong with you pH or base water, there is no other possible rationale
I use RO water ppm 4
Final solution PH: 6.3 - 6.5
 
I have been watching this thread since it first came up last Wednesday. Just now you posted the info on your feeding schedule and the problem might be that you are off on the amounts you are mixing.

Do you have the feeding chart from BIoBizz? If you do not get it right now. It is available from their website.

If you do have their schedule then I suggest that you follow their ratio of fertilizer (their Bloom in this example) per liter of water. Their chart is recommending 2 or 3 ml per liter of water. You are still at 1/3 to 1/2 of what you should be mixing into the water. Or, if using gallons then it is approx 8 to 12 ml per gallon of water.

I am not sure on this but I think that BioBizz recommends mixing their product into the water for each watering. And I get the feeling that you also need to tighten up the watering schedule as in giving it more water each time.
 
I use RO water ppm 4
Final solution PH: 6.3 - 6.5
LiteMix is a bit of an oddity - it is almost inert after a few weeks and if it has ever dried out, it loses much of its capacity for holding water. It's really only good for seedlings and cutttings
1ml - 1.5ml Gro/Bloom offers nothing more than subsistence, you should be on about 3+2ml for a plant that size
 
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