Huge, hard buds, yellow and yellowing leaves autos

beard o

Well-Known Member
I'm growing four 420 Fastbud autos. Blue Dream, Wedding Cheesecake, and Gorilla Cookies. Day 50 in flower.
Some of the best, biggest, hardest buds Ive ever grown. No popcorn. Esp the Blue Dream. They look and smell fantastic.

Only problem all the leaves are yellow, or turning yellow at an alarming rate.
I've only grown photos in the past, and I'm used to yellow leaves at the end of flower. But this happened so quickly I'm concerned.

A friend looked at them and told me this is expected. The buds are still growing, and now they're cannibalizing the nutrients from the leaves in order to survive.
This kinda makes sense. Light is 1000w HPS, 20/4. Being fed GH Maxibloom and 1/4 tsp of Cha Ching, pHed to 6.5 on every watering.
Thoughts?
 
I'm growing four 420 Fastbud autos. Blue Dream, Wedding Cheesecake, and Gorilla Cookies. Day 50 in flower.
Some of the best, biggest, hardest buds Ive ever grown. No popcorn. Esp the Blue Dream. They look and smell fantastic.

Only problem all the leaves are yellow, or turning yellow at an alarming rate.
I've only grown photos in the past, and I'm used to yellow leaves at the end of flower. But this happened so quickly I'm concerned.

A friend looked at them and told me this is expected. The buds are still growing, and now they're cannibalizing the nutrients from the leaves in order to survive.
This kinda makes sense. Light is 1000w HPS, 20/4. Being fed GH Maxibloom and 1/4 tsp of Cha Ching, pHed to 6.5 on every watering.
Thoughts?


Any pictures? Yes, yellowing of the leaves can be very normal late flower. In fact many harvest guides say that yellowing leaves are a sign that the harvest window is approaching. If your strain has a short flower period, I'd say 50 days is exactly when this should be happening.

Of course, it also can be deficiencies, but keep in mind that senescense (what you may be seeing with the yellowing of the leaves) can be a normal grow progression.

Video

senescense
 
Of course, it also can be deficiencies, but keep in mind that senescense (what you may be seeing with the yellowing of the leaves) can be a normal grow progression.

Video

senescense
I just watched the video. The images of senescence describes my situation almost exactly.

As I mentioned earlier, Im an old photo grower. As yuy know, in photos things happen much slower, and I more or less know what to expect.
But this happened so quickly. Buds are cooking along just beautifully, then whamo, yellow leaves in the course of 72 hours.
 
I'm growing four 420 Fastbud autos. Blue Dream, Wedding Cheesecake, and Gorilla Cookies. Day 50 in flower.
Some of the best, biggest, hardest buds Ive ever grown. No popcorn. Esp the Blue Dream. They look and smell fantastic.

Only problem all the leaves are yellow, or turning yellow at an alarming rate.
I've only grown photos in the past, and I'm used to yellow leaves at the end of flower. But this happened so quickly I'm concerned.

A friend looked at them and told me this is expected. The buds are still growing, and now they're cannibalizing the nutrients from the leaves in order to survive.
This kinda makes sense. Light is 1000w HPS, 20/4. Being fed GH Maxibloom and 1/4 tsp of Cha Ching, pHed to 6.5 on every watering.
Thoughts?
What's the medium, type of pot and how much MaxiGrow ?

Should be @ ~ 5g/gallon by now...

I use a 600w MH/HPS and my auto's stay green right to harvest !

Cheers
 
Sounds spot on to me
Did BD last season, top drawer stuff - the batch I slow cured was best, I'm smokin it now
:hookah:

How’d you slow cure it? Got a journal, or feel like explaining it real quick? I’ve been messing around with different methods and the best I’ve found so far is quite tedious.
 
You really are going to need pictures. To get the advice you need. :thumb: 🍋
Here

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IMG_20240219_190222~2.jpg


IMG_20240219_190210~2.jpg
 
Here

IMG_20240219_190236~2.jpg


IMG_20240219_190222~2.jpg


IMG_20240219_190210~2.jpg
I am not at the level that I can give advice on deficiency. I hope Shed does not mind me tagging him. @InTheShed But I did not mean to come across sounding like I could. The way it works is you ask for help and post pictures and then someone usually responds with help. Sorry if I confused you. 🍋
 
How’d you slow cure it? Got a journal, or feel like explaining it real quick? I’ve been messing around with different methods and the best I’ve found so far is quite tedious.
Once it's mostly dry I put it in an airtight tub with a sheet of kitchen towel in the fridge
Change towel every few days and tumble the tub a few times, until the tissue stops feeling slightly damp/limp
The BD has been in there for a couple of months now and it's at 56-58%RH
Break open a bud and it smells like the day you chopped it
:passitleft:
 
I just watched the video. The images of senescence describes my situation almost exactly.

As I mentioned earlier, Im an old photo grower. As yuy know, in photos things happen much slower, and I more or less know what to expect.
But this happened so quickly. Buds are cooking along just beautifully, then whamo, yellow leaves in the course of 72 hours.
Beautiful buds my friend. Yes, I think you're seeing premature senescence – the plant's lifecycle is ending before the buds are ready. This is something I've faced with my outdoor greenhouse grow. It's a factor of grow medium, nutrients provided, and size of pot. I use a custom-made soil that's got lots of NPK, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, and micro-nutrients. If you are using FFOF, you are going to be more dependent on the liquid ferts, and as the plants go into flower phase, make sure you're giving them enough. Also, plants in flower still need some N, in addition to increased P and K. Pot size is also a big factor with senescence. If a pot is too small, then the plant can become root bound, which can impact nutrient absorption and proper drainage.
 
Beautiful buds my friend. Yes, I think you're seeing premature senescence – the plant's lifecycle is ending before the buds are ready. This is something I've faced with my outdoor greenhouse grow. It's a factor of grow medium, nutrients provided, and size of pot. I use a custom-made soil that's got lots of NPK, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, and micro-nutrients. If you are using FFOF, you are going to be more dependent on the liquid ferts, and as the plants go into flower phase, make sure you're giving them enough. Also, plants in flower still need some N, in addition to increased P and K. Pot size is also a big factor with senescence. If a pot is too small, then the plant can become root bound, which can impact nutrient absorption and proper drainage.
Thank you for the kind words.

Yes I'm growing in a 5 gallon soft pots and using FFOF soil which I amended with perlite and myco.
I began feeding GH Maxigrow in veg, then switched to GH Maxibloom through flower. I added FF Bestie Bloomz first three weeks. Now I'm still feeding GH Maxibloom but I'm adding FF Cha Ching during the final stages of flower. Ive also need adding molasses once a week.
I began the grow with a 600w MH from seedling to early veg. Then I switched to a 1000w MH for the remainder of veg. At the first hint of flower I switched over to a 1000w HPS for the balance of flower. 20/4 cycle.
 
Thank you for the kind words.

Yes I'm growing in a 5 gallon soft pots and using FFOF soil which I amended with perlite and myco.
I began feeding GH Maxigrow in veg, then switched to GH Maxibloom through flower. I added FF Bestie Bloomz first three weeks. Now I'm still feeding GH Maxibloom but I'm adding FF Cha Ching during the final stages of flower. Ive also need adding molasses once a week.
I began the grow with a 600w MH from seedling to early veg. Then I switched to a 1000w MH for the remainder of veg. At the first hint of flower I switched over to a 1000w HPS for the balance of flower. 20/4 cycle.
I think you've missed your window of opportunity to correct the N deficiency. I'm not familiar with those fert products, but are you still giving N, and if so how much?
 
But this happened so quickly. Buds are cooking along just beautifully, then whamo, yellow leaves in the course of 72 hours.
It seems to be pretty much impossible to fix the yellowing of the leaves once it starts. It appears to be possible to slow down the yellow stage but this has to be started before flowering begins or well before the yellow leaves show up.

With photo-period plants I have found that the easy way is to transplant into the final pot of soil two weeks before the change in the light schedule. I also start the flowering nutrients at that time instead of waiting until the first pistils/stigmas show.

I schedule in some extra Nitrogen on two occasions during the flowering stage and one or maybe two doses of Potassium. The N & P doses are going to be liquid while the flowing nutrients are a dry powder that is sprinkle over the soil.

Since it seems that the yellowing of the leaves is hard to prevent, especially in smaller pots of 3 or 5 gallon size, I am trying to delay the start and then slow it down once it starts.
 
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