Always thought basements stayed at a relatively constant temperature due to the mass of earth around giving a large amount of thermal mass. Thus easy temperature control.
Newtoitall's First Grow Journal
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- #22
newtoitall
Active Member
Left without lights for 6 hours like it was my room would drop down to about 10c. I am closing off an area so I can control temperature and humidity regardless of lighting or basement temp. I have about 16-18 hours of building to do so just waiting for some time off to get it completed
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- #23
newtoitall
Active Member
I love on a hill and very little of the basement is actually underground
Ahh, the joys of indoor. This may be a bit out field, but when I build my own room I'd use a wood burner for heating. Cheap, easy and off the radar. Not sure if that would fit your system but always worth the thought, can do your reservoir if on hydro.
Plus eco friendly
Plus eco friendly
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- #25
newtoitall
Active Member
I have a natural gas ventless heater I was going to run in the basement which also adds humidity, two birds.... I would expect the heater would also be a source of CO, maybe I will send my O2 enriched air from the plants to the heater and try to close the loop. I don't know if this would work or a really bad idea, I may have to bring home a monitor from work and check out the air quality in my grow space
It could well work buddy. My thoughts would be very careful when bringing gas or anything rich in carbon monoxide into the room without proper controll. Could very easily have a big bang, or death.
jinn
New Member
a little more outside of the box thinking here, but you could make your own radiant heating system based off the main components you already have. you can run pex tubing around/through/under your grow area, and use a large trashcan, or 50gallon drum as a res.
Insulate the reservoir, and voila. You could gravity feed it, cyclone feed it, or make add a pump. You could also liquid cool the light and use that heat instead/as well as the exhaust heat.
For most people that seems like a daunting task, but reading about how hands on youve been thus far, it seems in your ball park.
(p.s. Subbed, I started my grow a few days after yours, so we're in the same stretch right now! hope to see new pics soon!)
Insulate the reservoir, and voila. You could gravity feed it, cyclone feed it, or make add a pump. You could also liquid cool the light and use that heat instead/as well as the exhaust heat.
For most people that seems like a daunting task, but reading about how hands on youve been thus far, it seems in your ball park.
(p.s. Subbed, I started my grow a few days after yours, so we're in the same stretch right now! hope to see new pics soon!)
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- #28
newtoitall
Active Member
The heaters are ventless, they burn nearly 100% efficient so I don't think they will be an issue. I will still bring in air from outside the room and exhaust some of the air out of the grow area. I know several people on the site use electric heaters to keep the room temperature in a good range during lights out but I don't want to increase my electric bill any more than I will from the lamps. The rom is all framed up and using 1/2" x 4'x8' insulated panels so I may not need more than just the pilot light to keep the room warm. I will try to get another picture up soon and oriented correctly.
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- #29
newtoitall
Active Member
I am about to put the first two plants into flower. took cuttings the last two days for clones and have them in an aeroponic cloner and have 5 seedlings going from seeds. I decided to have an area for each stage with different lighting and larger areas so I can get a crop about every 4 weeks. The first will be for seeds or cloning and will have 2 x 2' fluorescents and up to 8 CFL's. The second area has a single 400 watt MH and the third area has two 400 watt MH lamps. I will move plants as they are transplanted. The last two areas will have 3 400 watt HPS and 20 100 watt CFL's. With cloning I should be able to keep the cycle going unless I have a catastrophic incident. I am including a few pictures of the seedlings, clones and the two after I took the cuttings. I also topped each of the plants so I have two main shoots on each. I will top the next batch earlier so I can top them twice and have 4 main tops instead of the two these have. Any suggestions or comments are appreciated
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- #30
newtoitall
Active Member
The first two pictures were taken today. The one on the left is 16" and the other is 15". The last pic is one from a few weeks ago. The plants have been thinned a lot from taking the clones so I will give them a few more days before I put them into flower. Right now the plants are growing about 1/2" a day. I don't know what kind of yield I will get but the plants are doing much better now that I figured out how to control the temperature, humidity and how often to water and feed.
TattooedJT
New Member
looking good man!
jinn
New Member
Indeed it looks as if you've got things handled!
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- #33
newtoitall
Active Member
Thanks. Has anyone taken clones and if so, how long from the time you take the cuttings until you usually go to flowering? I was thinking maybe two weeks in the cloner, two weeks in the next room after transplanting and then another two weeks in the last veg room until they are big enough to move to flowering. Does this make any sense or am I being too aggressive?
jinn
New Member
It really depends on three factors:
1) are they rooted and healthy?
2) Are you looking for larger yield or faster turn around?
3) what method of cloning are you using?
People often take cuttings, and after theyve rooted/and are healthy enough, are transplanted and set 12/12.
The longer you leave them in VEG, the larger your yield can be.
(edit. aero cloners can have roots in under 4-5 days, other cloning methods can take up to 2 weeks.)
1) are they rooted and healthy?
2) Are you looking for larger yield or faster turn around?
3) what method of cloning are you using?
People often take cuttings, and after theyve rooted/and are healthy enough, are transplanted and set 12/12.
The longer you leave them in VEG, the larger your yield can be.
(edit. aero cloners can have roots in under 4-5 days, other cloning methods can take up to 2 weeks.)
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- #35
newtoitall
Active Member
1. Since I am new at cloning that is yet to be seen but I will wait until I have a good root system before transplanting. 2. I would like to strike a balance between the number of harvests and yield per harvest. I am going to be somewhat space limited so most likely lean more toward faster turn around. 3. I am using an aeroponic closer which I think you can just make out in the picture with the cuttings. I plan on picking up another one so I have more clones to choose from to move to the other vegging areas and ultimately on to flowering. My flower areas should each hold about 21 plants. I will adjust that based on my yield and can alwYs upgrade to 600 or 1000 watt HPS in those rooms if I can justify the expense
jinn
New Member
Well most people doing a SOG/perpetual literally go 12/12 as soon as the clone is healthy enough for transplant.
If you're looking for larger yields, try a week of veg, see if that yields enough, if not, add another week, etc... Another concern though, is vegging the clones longer will decrease the amount of space available ESPECIALLY when they go into flower.
All that being said, you're running 3 400w in your main flowering chamber, I think that should be more than capable of providing enough coverage.
Upgrading of course, will increase your yield. But if you were to upgrade I would seriously recommend looking into LED.
They put out less heat, have fine tuned spectrum(to include uv), and produce terpenes not found in bud grown under HPS/MH.
If you're looking for larger yields, try a week of veg, see if that yields enough, if not, add another week, etc... Another concern though, is vegging the clones longer will decrease the amount of space available ESPECIALLY when they go into flower.
All that being said, you're running 3 400w in your main flowering chamber, I think that should be more than capable of providing enough coverage.
Upgrading of course, will increase your yield. But if you were to upgrade I would seriously recommend looking into LED.
They put out less heat, have fine tuned spectrum(to include uv), and produce terpenes not found in bud grown under HPS/MH.
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- #37
newtoitall
Active Member
I was checking out some of the LED's, it is something I may consider
With LED you will be looking at twice as much light needed compared to high pressure sodium kits
jinn
New Member
not true, 3 p400 Platinum LEDs would stomp 3 400w HPS/MH without a doubt.With LED you will be looking at twice as much light needed compared to high pressure sodium kits
and thats watt for watt.
Really? I've yet to see a watt for watt led grow out yield a HID grow. Usually they fall far short of the mark. Just my personal experience though
