Please Help!

shottafire said:
Man seems like there’s some conflicting opinions on here.
First of all I would call your medium soilless not soil. And I would say that maybe your ec meter is not calibrated possibly. 3 ec is extremely hot especially since this soil is designed for feeding right away. 5.7 seems a little low but if that’s what they state on the bag I would personally follow that and get a feel for what the plants tell you. As you could see I say what I would do and I’m not the type to tell someone go and do this and go and do that unless I’m brass tacks 100 percent positive on my info.
Click to expand...
I feel like today is pH discussion day. lol!
I’m getting threads mixed up because there are 4 talking about the same thing.
 
Lancashire farmer said:
Yeah I've seen it a bit today ... Feel like screaming "stop filling your plants with salty shit and it won't be a issue" 
Click to expand...
No bullshit, just laughed my Jimmy Johns sandwich out of my mouth. Haven’t had a genuine explosive laugh like that in awhile.
 
Emilya said:
noooooo..... there is not a drift downwards.... drift is always upwards unless something is drastically wrong with your soil. The base pH (that number on the bag) is the pH that that soil tries to assume when dry. It is designed to be at the top of the pH range so that when you water at the hot spot of mobility (the point where the most minerals are the most mobile) 6.3 pH, the pH of your container is just that, 6.3. Then as the water table begins to drop and the soil begins to dry from the top down and in a cloth bag from the outer edges toward the center, the pH begins to drift upward toward the base pH as the soil loses the influence of the water. This allows your nutrients to drift through the entire pH range, of 6.2 or 6.3 all the way up to the upper end of 6.8 pH.
Click to expand...
@morphin
Check this thread. I can’t keep up with 4 threads on the same topic anymore. Lol!
 
Lancashire farmer said:
Each to there own though... No way is better and all that :Namaste:.
Hope the op figures out the issue.
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Agree.
Always more than one way to skin a cat. I prefer without the hair.
 
6.8? 7? I dont think is a problem if you use 2-3 drops in a litre to lower ph to these values
 
Known said:
In a 5.7 soil what ph should the water be guys?
Click to expand...
Honestly if it were me I would go in at 7 give it a few days and see what happens.

How long have they been in this soil?
 
Known said:
In a 5.7 soil what ph should the water be guys?
Click to expand...
You need to check your soil pH first (this Ideally needs a lab test but you can get a rough amount of a slurry test.).
If it's 5.7 you need to amend it, if your trying to build a soil web phing your water with acid will only make things worse.
There's no easy solution to your issue... Your taking bits of grow methods from differant practices and trying to make them work.
If you want to battle a soil with that pH I'd...
If your going organic...
Once you've done a slurry test add dolomite lime to adjust your pH, then send of a soil sample of and re amend accordingly. I'd then add water at a neutral pH (Ro) for a few weeks to build a good food Web. I wouldn't feed anything bar water and wouldn't add any additives.
 
WIll make transpant tomorrow morning with the new soil of 5.7...

Now i have the soil in big bucket insede the tent so it can catch the tent temperature to avoid some shock for tmrow transplant....

I found a chart which tells you what water ph you need for your soil ph

ΡΗ soil ΡΗ water

6,1 -------------- 6,4
6,0 -------------- 6,5
5,9 -------------- 6,6
5,8 -------------- 6,7
5,7 -------------- 6,8
5,6 -------------- 6,9
5,5 -------------- 7.0
5,4 -------------- 7,1
5,3 -------------- 7,2
5,2 -------------- 7,3
5,1 -------------- 7,4
 
AdaminCO said:
Honestly if it were me I would go in at 7 give it a few days and see what happens.

How long have they been in this soil?
Click to expand...
This is not soil for the plant to feed itself from what’s available in the mix it is designed for use with nutrients right out of the gate. If he was in FFOF I would say yes screw the ph but his is not that. He has a soil less medium and should be treated more like hydroponics rather than soil.
 
Known said:
WIll make transpant tomorrow morning with the new soil of 5.7...

Now i have the soil in big bucket insede the tent so it can catch the tent temperature to avoid some shock for tmrow transplant....

I found a chart which tells you what water ph you need for your soil ph

ΡΗ soil ΡΗ water

6,1 -------------- 6,4
6,0 -------------- 6,5
5,9 -------------- 6,6
5,8 -------------- 6,7
5,7 -------------- 6,8
5,6 -------------- 6,9
5,5 -------------- 7.0
5,4 -------------- 7,1
5,3 -------------- 7,2
5,2 -------------- 7,3
5,1 -------------- 7,4
Click to expand...
If you aren’t in it yet, don’t use it.
Go buy a normal 6.5pH soil.
You don’t want to fight soil pH through the whole grow. It will be difficult to help you all throughout your grow.
 
Known said:
WIll make transpant tomorrow morning with the new soil of 5.7...

Now i have the soil in big bucket insede the tent so it can catch the tent temperature to avoid some shock for tmrow transplant....

I found a chart which tells you what water ph you need for your soil ph

ΡΗ soil ΡΗ water

6,1 -------------- 6,4
6,0 -------------- 6,5
5,9 -------------- 6,6
5,8 -------------- 6,7
5,7 -------------- 6,8
5,6 -------------- 6,9
5,5 -------------- 7.0
5,4 -------------- 7,1
5,3 -------------- 7,2
5,2 -------------- 7,3
5,1 -------------- 7,4
Click to expand...
No scientific logic behind this chart mate, all depends on your soil
 
Lancashire farmer said:
You need to check your soil pH first (this Ideally needs a lab test but you can get a rough amount of a slurry test.).
If it's 5.7 you need to amend it, if your trying to build a soil web phing your water with acid will only make things worse.
There's no easy solution to your issue... Your taking bits of grow methods from differant practices and trying to make them work.
If you want to battle a soil with that pH I'd...
If your going organic...
Once you've done a slurry test add dolomite lime to adjust your pH, then send of a soil sample of and re amend accordingly. I'd then add water at a neutral pH (Ro) for a few weeks to build a good food Web. I wouldn't feed anything bar water and wouldn't add any additives.
Click to expand...

Im using synthetic nutes + nitric acid for veg ph down and phos ph down for later bloom stage

I will provide nutes when i see signs of hungryness i guess
 
shottafire said:
This is not soil for the plant to feed itself from what’s available in the mix it is designed for use with nutrients right out of the gate. If he was in FFOF I would say yes screw the ph but his is not that. He has a soil less medium and should be treated more like hydroponics rather than soil.
Click to expand...
It’s Orchid soil, base pH of 5.7.
It’s not standard soil.
 
AdaminCO said:
If you aren’t in it yet, don’t use it.
Go buy a normal 6.5pH soil.
You don’t want to fight soil pH through the whole grow. It will be difficult to help you all throughout your grow.
Click to expand...

This is the battle im facing the last 2 months.....Trying soils and soils...Traveled all around the cities...Most of them, acidics....I found one that is around ph 7 and is what im using now and im not happy with it....

Maybe throw some dolomite in the soil and wait to get activate? I think it needs 15 days to startt working?
 

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