SeymoreNugget's DIY talk - Building lights - Sharing ideas

DirtManDan said:
2 of the big boys would be overkill for my teeny ass box. Even dimmed down.

I plan on running 2 of these with some modifications. 10 Solderless LED Low Profile Rooting Kit - Rapid LED

Side by side. With an option to run one at a time. I'm gonna wire in some switches for the 2 drivers.
I need my little buddy to do it all. Seed to finished flower.

One of these might be enough for my little box. To get some seeds going. Or veg a small mom. But like I said. I need this small box to do it all. So I have the option to kick it to high when I want to flower if the one by itself is not enough.

The big wafer cobs are bad ass. But I can't afford having those big pin style heatsinks in my tiny area.

I have dreams of building a 4x4 monster like the man himself has a few of. Lol.


Sent from my iPhone using 420 Magazine Mobile App
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Check out quantum boards with Samsung mid LEDs, pretty neat high tech stuff for micro grows. :Namaste:
 
Good thread here, keep it up. I will be making mine light for the spring. Six CLU 058 1825 at 450W with one UVB bulb. With 600W Meanwell dimmable driver, if I want to upgrade.. I will be sharing that with you here or/and in the DIY section. Cannot w8 for the results. Great job and good luck! :thumb: :love: :Namaste:
 
I tested the drivers on my COB's today and am pleased to say that they worked! Now to sorting out the rest of these heat sinks and they're good to go :) Not bad at all for £5.59 apiece :thumb:
 
Between 48 and 50 watts so enough to drive a single COB which suits me perfectly as that matches the other 7 single COB's that I have in there which means I can distribute them as I like and tilt them etc, pretty chuffed I have to say! At the total cost per light (around £22-£25) I don't mind building these all day long :thumb:
 
HiddenHobbyist said:
Between 48 and 50 watts so enough to drive a single COB which suits me perfectly as that matches the other 7 single COB's that I have in there which means I can distribute them as I like and tilt them etc, pretty chuffed I have to say! At the total cost per light (around £22-£25) I don't mind building these all day long :thumb:
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That's a nice way to do it man!
 
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Got me some more cooling. Cpl of those F12s are for air circulation under the canopy, some more fans over the canopy and for the drivers, cables n stuff. I have 18 fans and vents in total. 8 for cobs 10 for room and Equipment. lol
 
In the name of the thread. Here is my first DIY led grow light. Well the first that worked. I tried to build one a year or so ago with those dodgy pink chips you get from China. And they burned up within a couple hours. Which I look at as. A lesson learned. Quality in. Quality out. Luckily it wasn't expensive. I was experimenting with laptop power supplys and DC converters.
Enough talk about my previous blunders. Here's a recent success.

LED Micro Grow. Round 2. E.1 DIY Cree XML2 LED array. - YouTube

Dirt Man Dan
 
DirtManDan said:
In the name of the thread. Here is my first DIY led grow light. Well the first that worked. I tried to build one a year or so ago with those dodgy pink chips you get from China. And they burned up within a couple hours. Which I look at as. A lesson learned. Quality in. Quality out. Luckily it wasn't expensive. I was experimenting with laptop power supplys and DC converters.
Enough talk about my previous blunders. Here's a recent success.

LED Micro Grow. Round 2. E.1 DIY Cree XML2 LED array. - YouTube

Dirt Man Dan
Click to expand...

F'n awesome


Sent from my iPhone using 420 Magazine Mobile App
 
PRETTY NICE DUDE!! Damn what would i give for that tools :) you did an awesome job. Be gentle with the light, add a humidity meter and keep it up. good luck :)

Hopefully my driver and last cob arrives till monday so i can finish this light between my night shifts and leave it like it is until flower is coming. But i guess i will be vegging for the next 4 to 8 weeks to let them forget all this stress

I was thinking about adding some extra 660nm reds on a switch near the 4000K cobs for flower. I am still not shure if the 4000K would flower perfectly without it. Still have 6 Mars ll Drivers layin' arround. I think they can handle 60W each. 4 of them i will use for a 240W COB light i build out of the Mars ll 700 case someday.
 
660 and 670 are "far reds" correct? Like end of the red spectrum. I'd have to find where I heard about it. But far reds don't actually photosyntsize. What your supposed to do is run them 15 min after lights out. This sends a signal to the plants to "sleep" so what your doing is getting a longer night period. Without changing your 12/12 schedule.

Dirt Man Dan
 
DirtManDan said:
660 and 670 are "far reds" correct? Like end of the red spectrum. I'd have to find where I heard about it. But far reds don't actually photosyntsize. What your supposed to do is run them 15 min after lights out. This sends a signal to the plants to "sleep" so what your doing is getting a longer night period. Without changing your 12/12 schedule.

Dirt Man Dan
Click to expand...

Yes 680-730 is far red. I've heard it can shorten the flowering by a week. But do not quote me on that. And I think 10 minutes is enough, depending how much extra stretch you want. Yes, you can stretch your plants as you want with red light only. Cannot hurt, this good night light. :)
 
660nm is deep red and for flowering.
Singals for Chlorophyll A and B and a wake up signal for the daylight Phytochrome state. This is the one of the typical 5w reds used in a mars led for all day use. 730nm far red diodes is the opposite for faster Night Phytochrome switch couple of minutes at end of light. This is what i learned.

Maybe a 50W 660nm booster in the morning, uv at noon and far red after sunset. :)
 
The Nebula and her bushy babies, and some atomical haze

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Tip of one of the 4 tops on the Nebula
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Cloning is nice. A friend gave me one nebula seed. Now i have 6 nebula plants in total. and so easy...try it.
 
SeymoreNugget said:
660nm is deep red and for flowering.
Singals for Chlorophyll A and B and a wake up signal for the daylight Phytochrome state. This is the one of the typical 5w reds used in a mars led for all day use. 730nm far red diodes is the opposite for faster Night Phytochrome switch couple of minutes at end of light. This is what i learned.

Maybe a 50W 660nm booster in the morning, uv at noon and far red after sunset. :)
Click to expand...

UV all day except morning and sunlight. You cannot supply as much UV as Sun, not happening with few tubes.
 
As far as I know Infra red simulates sunset/sunrise and puts the plants to sleep quicker and wakes them up quicker so that you can add an extra hour a day to the light schedule meaning more daytime growth (above ground) and less night time growth which is roots, you want to be pushing above for obvious reasons, that's where the buds are. Other than that I'm not sure it does anything else, but then again people thought plants didn't need a full spectrum to produce its optimum a couple of years ago hence all the blurple LED's about. :thumb:
 

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