Phillybonker
Well-Known Member
A couple of my plants have these rusty looking spots on the leaves, any idea what it is?
What's these rusty looking spots?
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Could be a deficiency, or a combination of deficiency and bug damage. It kind of resembles a cal-mag or potassium issue. Where are the affected leaves located on the plant, top, bottom, middle? Have you looked underneath the leaves to check for bugs? As I recall it's an organic grow, so a lockout is highly unlikely, unless you've been mixing organic and non-organic nutes.
looks outdoor. are you in buckets or straight in the ground ?
i'm leaning to predatory, but it does look like it wants some nutes too.
i'm leaning to predatory, but it does look like it wants some nutes too.
Nunyabiz
Well-Known Member
Looks like a calcium deficiency
it does ... but outdoor ? it doesn't equate.
Outdoors in the ground. Soil was prepped and had amendments added. It is his second, or maybe 3rd season in the same spot. Several other 'guerilla' growers in the same area.
@Phillybonker has created his own interesting version of the standard journal. I have been following his outdoor grow projects for some time now. He started this current one way back last year with questions and comments about his upcoming 'guerilla' grow back in the bush, threads about prepping the spots each plant would grow, or would this amendment be helpful, and so on. We got to find out what he was thinking when someone found his grow just a few weeks before the start of flowering and wondering what to do if they were 'rippers'.
If he had a new question or new idea it became a new topic. Certainly seemed a lot easier to follow along on what he was doing without having to go back and reread 20 pages. It is easy to find all the threads and tie them together. I click on his user name, and look for the button that says "Find". Click on that and follow down to the "Find All Threads by Phillybonker". Not much in the way of photographs but that is OK.
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Phillybonker
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The effected leaves are in random places. I haven't checked under the leaves for bugs but I'll do that next time I check my grow.
This is a 100% organic grow.
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- #8
Phillybonker
Well-Known Member
Outdoors straight in the ground. There is plenty of nutes in the ground already, I did put the potash in a bit late and it takes time before it's available to the plant.
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- #9
Phillybonker
Well-Known Member
Plenty of bone meal and dolomite lime in the ground so that would be surprising but I won't rule it out. I'll add some more dolomite lime.
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- #10
Phillybonker
Well-Known Member
It's my second season growing. I've got plants in three different areas that are within a couple of miles of each other and there are other growers in all three areas. I'll post some photo's in a few days when I next visit.
Know that it takes a while for dolomite to become available to the plants. Bone meal is a little quicker. But if you've ever used bone meal for bulbs or garlic, you put a teaspoon under the garlic section or bulb and plant it in November, you don't harvest (or get flowers) until May-June, so it's got a pretty slow release too. Did you "cook" this soil for a while before planting?
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Phillybonker
Well-Known Member
Wasn't anything to cook. I put in dolomite lime, blood & bone meal and compost about 2-3 weeks before transplanting and added seabird guano later on.
I've only got 4-5 weeks till harvest so now that you mention it I won't put down any dolomite. I'll just keep a closer eye on those plants.
You might want to think about using a nutrient source that already has a fair amount of water soluble calcium. It would not get rid of the brown spots but if it works it will keep them from increasing in number or size.
It should be obvious whether the calcium is workingwithin a week or two if you notice the stems feeling stronger and the plant starting to look like it is even healthier than it is now.
It should be obvious whether the calcium is workingwithin a week or two if you notice the stems feeling stronger and the plant starting to look like it is even healthier than it is now.
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Phillybonker
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I'll take a look around for some water soluble calcium fertilizer. Thanks
marcus611a
Well-Known Member
I second that emotion calcium mag definitely is needed much in flower
Powdered gypsum should do it. The same stuff they use to make what we call 'plasterboard' over here. Or you could use "Plaster of Paris" from a bag bought at a hardware store. I use a product from Roots Organic and it is a powder. I use a table spoon or two, depending on how large the pot of soil is, as a top dressing.I'll take a look around for some water soluble calcium fertilizer. Thanks
The stuff is 'hydrophobic' so it will resist absorbing the water which might be considered a plus. Put the powder down and every time it is watered or it rains a bit more will dissolve and work into the soil. I talked to the representative at Roots Organic and he says It takes about 10 to 15 days to water into the soil. Then, do it again if needed.
Plenty of articles from gardening sites and universities and science groups about using plaster and plateboard as the source of calcium for plants grown in soil.
This one is from the University of Alberta and written by Kate Black. The google search key words were "will plaster add calcium to soil". There were several other articles that said the same thing but with different wording.
https://phys.org/news/2015-04-drywall-good-composting-material.html
Nunyabiz
Well-Known Member
I would use micronized Gypsum, has a touch of Sulphur also.
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Phillybonker
Well-Known Member
I'll look into powdered gypsum as a Ca source. Thanks
Our plasterboard or gib board as we call it over here in NZ contains glues and additives, not sure if that will have any effect on the soil life or not. I'll have to read more into it but that sure is a good way to recycle gib.
I'll be shocked if it is a Ca issue though because I put a lot in the ground. Both dolomite and bone meal at the start and then I added more bone meal half way through vegging. My next visit to my grow sites is tomorrow so I'll have another closer look at the plants that are having issues.
I'd like to use Roots Organic products as well if I was able to get hold of some. Over in the US you guys got access to all sorts of fertilizers like Peruvian seabird guano, crab meal, sea urchin fertilizer, insect frass etc, stuff I'd like to try but shipping costs from US to NZ are 6-10 times the cost of the fertilizer products making importing these ingredients not possible.
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Phillybonker
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Thanks for the advice, I didn't know gypsum has some sulphur in it as well, I thought it was just a Ca source.
I mentioned the plasterboard as just an example of a source of gypsum. Since you have a guerilla grow it would be easier to bring in a bag of plaster than haul in a bunch of broken up plasterboard.
You are well into flower with just several weeks to go. I was also thinking that it might be good enough to try an inexpensive source of calcium to finish out the season. That way you will find out whether the problem starts to go away or not.
If you find out over the winter or early next spring that you have to move your guerilla grow somewhere else at least you do not have a lot of money involved in a quality source of calcium plus other nutrients just for a basic test.
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