1000 Watt Water Cooled Grow

[Nicademus]

I am going to use gibberellic acid to germinate the next seeds i do. Apparently if you soak them in a 300ppm solution they make the seedling grow like gangbusters. I read about it on a university website where they germed corn seeds in varied ppm solution and found that 300ppm was the "sweet spot" for incredible growth. In the study they grew so fast the seedlings couldn't support themselves and had to have support. They reported 50-80% increase of growth rates vs test seeds.

 

[Nicademus]

I looked into gibberellic acid and although it is cheap I don't think its as reliable as I would like. About the prolonged flower...I would prefer not to have to wait for a full cycle to possibly get pollen, so the STS method sounds like the best bet IMHO. I will probably do a comparison of the 2 methods though. Thanks nic.

Anyone know if you can just buy CS at like a health food store or something?

 

[KiwiKing]

"cs" ??

 

[Nicademus]

"cs" ??

Colodial Silver

 

[KiwiKing]

Ohh...I've heard you can get it at pharmacies...might just have to make it yourself though.

 

[WheeloFortune]

Colodial Silver

Ohh...I've heard you can get it at pharmacies...might just have to make it yourself though.

all it takes is a little hunk of silver (silver wire is cheap in hobby stores, or buy from ebay or find a silver dollar), some water, a low volt dc current, and you can make it easy and cheap.

i think there might be some questionability to this method though, something about whether or not the silver will bind to the ethylene receptors. . . I don't have verification of this though.

Gibbrilic acid is toxic to humans, be careful with it.

 

[KiwiKing]

^^ yeah, we used to make Gibberellic in organic chemistry, not the most pleasant stuff..

 

[Droopy Dog]

Thanks man. I appreciate the help. I'll feed it with 1/2 strength nutes and 15ml of rhizotonic tom. morning. .

Leave the nutes go!

She's not able to take up what's on her plate now with the other problems and giving her more is just going to compound things for the worst.

Get everything else straightened out first before you reach for the nute bottle.

You are getting excellent advice and seem to be choosing to ignore it.

She's not going to starve to death, but over feeding will certainly do the trick.

DD

 

[KiwiKing]

Leave the nutes go!

She's not able to take up what's on her plate now with the other problems and giving her more is just going to compound things for the worst.

Get everything else straightened out first before you reach for the nute bottle.

You are getting excellent advice and seem to be choosing to ignore it.

She's not going to starve to death, but over feeding will certainly do the trick.

DD

Dude....if you read the post time you will see that that post was before anyone said to hold off on the nutes....

 

[KiwiKing]

So I decided to do a small flush. The initial run off was 6.45!!! WHAT THE HELL IS CAUSING MY pH TO DROP SO QUICKLY, yesterday morning it was at 6.8-6.9...I mean seriously, I have been having thoughts of just trashing the plant. It's starting to piss me off.....Things were going swimmingly till about a week ago and then shit went downhill like no other....

I am going to flush until I get a run off of 6.8....

 

[KiwiKing]

Ok there is one factor that could possibly make my pH reading off. I just had a long very day...haven't had any sleep since Saturday. Anyway, I didn't feel like calibrating the pH meter so I just tested what it would read in 7.01 cal solution. It read 6.95...

 

[KiwiKing]

 

[The Butcher]

Your getting there. The downside to soil is adjusting the PH is a bi*ch to say the least. It takes time and patients, and from the size of your plant in the last pict you got patients. You'll get there. trust me we all have issues in our grows, just takes a lil more time to adjust in soil.

 

[KiwiKing]

Your getting there. The downside to soil is adjusting the PH is a bi*ch to say the least. It takes time and patients, and from the size of your plant in the last pict you got patients. You'll get there. trust me we all have issues in our grows, just takes a lil more time to adjust in soil.

Thanks man, lets hope so...

I am thinking about doing an all organic run next time, with possibly, Humboldt's organic product line. (seems the simplest thing to do instead of making my own nutes...just pay $$$ and apply the feeding schedule, haha. At $300 its expensive, but I think it would be best right now based on my skill level.) What would be the BEST soil to use with good drainage?

I would like to try Gold Label Special Mix, but am having trouble finding a US retailer. Anyone know where to get some?

 

[The Butcher]

have you googled it. Or im sure there is an online shop that could ship it out. I like Fox Farms Ocean Forest, however the trick to using it is to feed wtright R.O'd water the first few weeks. This is due to the additives already in the mix. I add 25-30% perlite to it. Or oyu could go with something like a sunshine mix. Great product, I use it outdoor and its never failed me. Pretty PH stable right out the bag. Hope this info helps.

 

[KiwiKing]

I googled it and also emailed the listed distributors for North America. This is the email response that I received:


We currently carry the Gold Label Special Mix Coco and Hydro Corn but not the Special Mix or Light Mix. We are working on getting it over but customs and Ag departments may make it impossible. We will see how it pans out. Both products will soon be available through NGW Sunlight Supply. Until then we will be distributing to the North American States. If you are a retail location please reply with store information. If you are a end user customer reply with the nearest hydroshop locations and we will see about getting the Gold Label products in those corresponding stores.

Thank You for your inquiry,
Take Care-****


I guess since it is an organic mix there are restrictions...too bad, this stuff looks badass. Hollands best....

Special Mix is made using Swedish virgin white peat of the highest quality: One gram of Special Mix can absorb a stunning ten grams of water. The peat is cut into a coarse structure and mixed with only the highest quality Perlite, Swedish clay, lime, minerals, trace elements and organic fertilizer.

It’s a complete mix, ready for use. Due to its unique structure Special mix can be used in 30% drain systems or without drain. In a drainless system Special Mix contains nutrients for almost a complete crop cycle.
How to get the most out of your Special Mix?
Organic growers are advised to introduce friendly soil bacteria and Mycorrhizae, the substrate will buffer the pH.

* The optimal saturation is 65%. It’s easy to test: grab a hand of substrate and squeeze it, making a fist. Just a few drops of water should appear between your fingers. Special Mix is almost ready for use. A glass of water is enough to hydrate a 10 litre pot.
* You needn’t add any lime or compost to the substrate.
* Agitate the substrate as little as possible to maintain that great structure
* After potting your plants, press the compost in the pot to create the right stability. You can feel how it rebounds when you press it
* Special mix contains enough nutrients for almost a complete grow cycleif you don’t water with drain. If you water with 30% drain it contains enough nutrients for the first three to six weeks. However, don’t wait until you have completely exhausted that supply and it starts to show on your plants. We recommend that you start with a very light feed after about 3-4 weeks to maintain the nutrients levels in the compost, but only if you use mineral nutrients and if you fertigate wit drain!
* The open structure of Special Mix allows you to use ebb and flood watering systems and to flush your substrate without the worries of a mud pool. Any excess water will drain. We recommend using enzymes when flushing your substrate.
* Want to upgrade your compost after the first run? Take away the top 5 cm of the substrate in your pot and mix the rest with at least 1/3 fresh Special Mix. Add Remix to upgrade the organic matter and minerals in your substrate or mix additives of your own choice. A great way to recycle your own substrate while maintaining optimal quality. Reuse the top part in your home garden or recycle it in the compost bin.
* If you grow mineral, the ideal pH is between 5.2 and 6.2


Maybe I'll try to order some from the UK to see how it is haha.
-It seems like it would be impossible to have what happened to my plants when only a glass of water is enough for a 2.5 gallon pot...talk about an easy flush.

 

[KiwiKing]

Haha sweet. I got an email back from a place in the Ireland and they said they can send it. I'll run a comparison with FFOF on the next run I do.

This shit is pretty expensive though...$30 usd not including shipping. I'm psyched I am going to be able to get it though...do you think customs will confiscate it?

 

[KiwiKing]

I hooked up a hose to the water faucet in the grow room to allow for easy flushing.

SLH flushing...preventative measure. She is 39" from the top of the pot.

I am having to use paint to re-size the files as Gimp isn't loading for some reason. Once it's running I'll try to get some "bud" shots...

 

[KiwiKing]

have you googled it. Or im sure there is an online shop that could ship it out. I like Fox Farms Ocean Forest, however the trick to using it is to feed wtright R.O'd water the first few weeks. This is due to the additives already in the mix. I add 25-30% perlite to it. Or oyu could go with something like a sunshine mix. Great product, I use it outdoor and its never failed me. Pretty PH stable right out the bag. Hope this info helps.

Butcher,
You said the trick to FFOF is to feed with the right RO'd water for the first two weeks. What would this be? Does it effect the grow later on down the line?
Also, do you add anything to Sunshine Mix #4?

haha, I have another question, maybe not the most popular, but I have to ask. I flipped the lights on the 10th. Given my pH problems, how long have I been in "flower"? The reason I ask it I am supposed to add beastie bloomz starting the 2nd week.

 

[KiwiKing]

So I got some pretty decent pistil development since yesterday. Looks like things are starting to turn around. Also the SLH is about 6 inches higher than the rest of the canopy. I tried to bend the top over but did not squeeze it enough and half of it snapped. It is still attacked so I righted it and secured it up with some tape. Can I go ahead and leave it bent over with half the stem broken or should I leave it how it is?