WhatDoYouDo
New Member
Hey all,
I want to get your feedback on the 730nm spectrum and how that is affecting your plants. I am new to this field but I think it is important for everyone to understand. (Especially me). One thing that I find interesting is a lack of conversation on this.
Far Red (730nm) it is useful for a few things.
1. Emerson Effect: The combination of Red and Far Red (670nm and 700nm) creates an effect where the photosynthesis is doubled.
Q: Can 730nm also be used? (many articles suggest yes, anything over 700nm will work) Does it work just as well, and what ratio do you want of red/far red? The sun seems to use a ratio of about 1:0.8, That is to say, if you have 10 watts of red 660, you should have 8w of far red? Any input?
Q: At what state and for how long do you want to run this Far Red cycle?
2. Photoperiodism: It cancels out any red light (660nm) that the plant receives during the dark period if you follow that interruption with far red (730nm). This tricks the plant into thinking it never saw any light instead of interrupting the dark period.
This means that, if you turn on a light during the dark period, you will wreck the dark period. If you turn on a light but then turn on 730nm, you will cancel out the light the plant saw and it does not affect the dark period.
Q: Does anyone have experience with this? I have read plenty of articles on it but wanted real feedback.
* Note, that in Morning glory (and I assume other plants) the opposite can be true. Does anyone know why?
3. Far red (730nm) given to your plants at the begging of the dark period shortens the critical dark period by about 2 hours. So instead of a 12/12, you can go to something like 13.5/10.5. This is because you shaved off that time it takes for the plant to change from Pr to Prf. In nature, when the sun is setting, a far red spectrum does this. If the plant does not see this far red, it takes about 2 hours to make the switch after it first see the dark. That means for 2 hours, your plant does basically nothing. By running Far Red, you convince the plant the sun has set and it will begin the dark phase faster.
Q: Does anyone do this? What are the results, and how long do you run the lights before the Dark period?
4. Phytochrome: Pr (660nm) and Pfr (730nm). These are the relationships.
a. Absorption of red light by PR converts it into PFR
b. Absorption of far red light by PFR converts it into PR.
c. In the dark, PFR spontaneously converts back to PR.
This jumps into Photosynthetic Artificial Darkness, (PAD)
Some people suggest that only the Red affects the dark phase (660nm is a night interrupter). Some suggest that the blue could be run all night, allowing 24/0.
Q: Has anyone does this? How does it work, and were the results good?
Q: could Far Red and Blue be run at night? Far Red could be absorbed at night and so could blue. In theory, could we run a deep blue and far red at night to promote growth?
Last question, is 730nm the best, or should it be a range of 720 — 740 to do everything mentioned above?
So, in theory, If we had lights that we could control each spectrum, (Blue, green, red, and far red), how should we go about doing this for optimal results?
It sounds like we would want a full blast, wide spectrum during the day, including far red for the Emerson Effect. Before the dark period, it sounds like we want to turn all the lights off expect the Far Red, and allow that to run 15 — 30 minutes into the dark phase. Shut that off and give it 10.5 hours of dark.
Some people suggest running the Far Red 15 minutes before you switch to the light phase (since that is what the sun does). Does any science back that up and improve results?
Thanks a lot guys. Any other suggestions are great.
I want to get your feedback on the 730nm spectrum and how that is affecting your plants. I am new to this field but I think it is important for everyone to understand. (Especially me). One thing that I find interesting is a lack of conversation on this.
Far Red (730nm) it is useful for a few things.
1. Emerson Effect: The combination of Red and Far Red (670nm and 700nm) creates an effect where the photosynthesis is doubled.
Q: Can 730nm also be used? (many articles suggest yes, anything over 700nm will work) Does it work just as well, and what ratio do you want of red/far red? The sun seems to use a ratio of about 1:0.8, That is to say, if you have 10 watts of red 660, you should have 8w of far red? Any input?
Q: At what state and for how long do you want to run this Far Red cycle?
2. Photoperiodism: It cancels out any red light (660nm) that the plant receives during the dark period if you follow that interruption with far red (730nm). This tricks the plant into thinking it never saw any light instead of interrupting the dark period.
This means that, if you turn on a light during the dark period, you will wreck the dark period. If you turn on a light but then turn on 730nm, you will cancel out the light the plant saw and it does not affect the dark period.
Q: Does anyone have experience with this? I have read plenty of articles on it but wanted real feedback.
* Note, that in Morning glory (and I assume other plants) the opposite can be true. Does anyone know why?
3. Far red (730nm) given to your plants at the begging of the dark period shortens the critical dark period by about 2 hours. So instead of a 12/12, you can go to something like 13.5/10.5. This is because you shaved off that time it takes for the plant to change from Pr to Prf. In nature, when the sun is setting, a far red spectrum does this. If the plant does not see this far red, it takes about 2 hours to make the switch after it first see the dark. That means for 2 hours, your plant does basically nothing. By running Far Red, you convince the plant the sun has set and it will begin the dark phase faster.
Q: Does anyone do this? What are the results, and how long do you run the lights before the Dark period?
4. Phytochrome: Pr (660nm) and Pfr (730nm). These are the relationships.
a. Absorption of red light by PR converts it into PFR
b. Absorption of far red light by PFR converts it into PR.
c. In the dark, PFR spontaneously converts back to PR.
This jumps into Photosynthetic Artificial Darkness, (PAD)
Some people suggest that only the Red affects the dark phase (660nm is a night interrupter). Some suggest that the blue could be run all night, allowing 24/0.
Q: Has anyone does this? How does it work, and were the results good?
Q: could Far Red and Blue be run at night? Far Red could be absorbed at night and so could blue. In theory, could we run a deep blue and far red at night to promote growth?
Last question, is 730nm the best, or should it be a range of 720 — 740 to do everything mentioned above?
So, in theory, If we had lights that we could control each spectrum, (Blue, green, red, and far red), how should we go about doing this for optimal results?
It sounds like we would want a full blast, wide spectrum during the day, including far red for the Emerson Effect. Before the dark period, it sounds like we want to turn all the lights off expect the Far Red, and allow that to run 15 — 30 minutes into the dark phase. Shut that off and give it 10.5 hours of dark.
Some people suggest running the Far Red 15 minutes before you switch to the light phase (since that is what the sun does). Does any science back that up and improve results?
Thanks a lot guys. Any other suggestions are great.