Be The First To Test Medic Grow Ez-8 1000W LED Grow Light!

#MedicgrowEz8
20210305_130237.jpg
 
i like the idea and the architecture of the rig.

i'm a little disappointed they don't indicate actual draw wattage on their specs. if anything i would advise them to cite actual draw wattage for the north american market. watt led equivalencies are recognized as being for advertising purposes only by most folk on the board.


edit : a quick look at their naming nomenclature suggests a 100w true draw or thereabouts.

scrubbed from their site :

Ez-8 LED Grow Light, 1000 Watt, Full Spectrum, High PPF,100-277v | Medic Grow​


100 watt / 277 volt.

all the same they get kudos for the giveaway and deserve a

#MedicgrowEz8

where did you find it says 100 true watts?
I'm pretty sure this is a 1,000 Watt fixture
I can only find a Par reading and such done by someone else on their 720W fixture and they mention it's 721 true Watts though,
here's the video, the 720W fixture has an absolutely amazing coverage at 12 inches 80% dimmed.


@MedicGrow can we get a Par reading on the Ez-8 at the different heights like in dr mj cocos video? would be really helpful to see that perfect spot like he found on the 720W video at 12 inches 80% dimmed where everything was basically flush 1000par across the 4x4.

also was looking at the fixture - as I've just ordered one and noticed it's a "v1" which is your Vegging spectrum, could I simply add supplemental 660nm/730nm IR reds to make it a better "flowering" spectrum, can we request your F1, or FS spectrum for the Ez-8 Upon purchase? thanks

- BT
 
where did you find it says 100 true watts?
I'm pretty sure this is a 1,000 Watt fixture


it's in the description line for the specs on their website.

"1000 Watt, Full Spectrum, High PPF,100-277v"

the 1000w means nothing. the real info is : 100-277v. that is the driver spec - 100 watts / 277 volt. this the max draw/output of the driver. a fixture can not exceed the driver spec.


edit : doesn't mean it's a bad light. just means it draws a 100 watt.
 
it's in the description line for the specs on their website.

"1000 Watt, Full Spectrum, High PPF,100-277v"

the 1000w means nothing. the real info is : 100-277v. that is the driver spec - 100 watts / 277 volt. this the max draw/output of the driver. a fixture can not exceed the driver spec.
I just don't understand how the driver voltage makes it 100 true watts, like for instance I search a HLG scorp Diablo the Voltage on the driver also says 100-277V, but would be 650 True watts, wouldn't this be the same 1000W draw at the wall?.(see HLG scorp below)
The website says it's 1000W in the reviews, and here's what the little description says
"
AMP120-277V AC,347-480V AC,50/60Hz
"
And it mentions 1000W I'd be shocked if it's 100 true watts, i ordered it and will wattage test it.

This is the pic of the Scorp.
Screenshot_20210620-174130.png
 
I just don't understand how the driver voltage makes it 100 true watts, like for instance I search a HLG scorpian Diablo the Voltage on the driver also says 100-277V, but would be 650 True watts, wouldn't this be the same 1000W draw at the wall?.(see HLG scorp below)
Screenshot_20210620-174130.png


i'd have to see the driver specs on that one to be certain. it looks like it could be a true 650w just judging by the size of the driver though. most fixtures that large use more than one driver though. i have a 600w cob rig and and a 650w emitter quantum style rig, both run dual drivers.


edit: other than price that's a good rig. the medic rig is a better deal for sure if it specs out. not trying to run them over. the light bars are increasingly popular.
 
i'd have to see the driver specs on that one to be certain. it looks like it could be a true 650w just judging by the size of the driver though. most fixtures that large use more than one driver though. i have a 600w cob rig and and a 650w emitter quantum style rig, both run dual drivers.
I ordered one yesterday, I'll wattage test it when it comes in, or @MedicGrow can answer haha.
But after seeing their 720W fixture is 720 true watts- I'm fairly certain it's a 1000W fixture. This is the par chart in a 4x4 - 12 inches and 80% dim on the 720W fixture, don't get much better than that.
IMG_20210618_210028.jpg
 
I ordered one yesterday, I'll wattage test it when it comes in, or @MedicGrow can answer haha.
But after seeing their 720W fixture is 720 true watts- I'm fairly certain it's a 1000W fixture. This is the par chart in a 4x4 - 12 inches and 80% dim on the 720W fixture, don't get much better than that.
IMG_20210618_210028.jpg



looking again i might have mis read the spec- it looks like they are both using variable voltage drivers.

the numbers cited are for the voltage range, not watt/volt. i assumed they were constant voltage output drivers, whereas they are probably actually constant current.

congrats on the new light :)
 
looking again i might have mis read the spec- it looks like they are both using variable voltage drivers.

the numbers cited are for the voltage range, not watt/volt. i assumed they were constant voltage output drivers, whereas they are probably actually constant current.

congrats on the new light :)
Thanks fam, little more blue than I'd like I emailed them and hoping they can do their "F1" spectrum opposed to the V1, but if not I'm curious to know if adding supplemental 660/730NM IR bars would help change the spectrum to a suitable flowering spectrum, I'm not quite sure how it all works haha.
 
Thanks fam, little more blue than I'd like I emailed them and hoping they can do their "F1" spectrum opposed to the V1, but if not I'm curious to know if adding supplemental 660/730NM IR bars would help change the spectrum to a suitable flowering spectrum, I'm not quite sure how it all works haha.


it'll def help.
it just has to be present. the plants will ignore the extra blue after stretch. i'd say it's a good idea.

i run my cob rigs with 3000k and 3500k mix, so i'm more deficient in blue. hasn't slowed things down at all, and i like the flower bias.
 
it'll def help.
it just has to be present. the plants will ignore the extra blue after stretch. i'd say it's a good idea.

i run my cob rigs with 3000k and 3500k mix, so i'm more deficient in blue. hasn't slowed things down at all, and i like the flower bias.
Yeah that was another thing I wish was mentioned was the diode color, I see on their 880W the video they mention it's 3500K which ain't too bad, but if this fixtures 4000k I may have a lil bit of gripes with it aha but alas I can't find where it mentions it, definitely need to update their website with a lot more information, and get some videos out ASAP lot of money to dish out for a lot of unknowns tbh probably driving a lot of people away. I love the price definitely can see them going far, also curious to know why they left out 730NM, as studies show deep red penentrate the leaves well, and Emerson effect.
 
Yeah that was another thing I wish was mentioned was the diode color, I see on their 880W the video they mention it's 3500K which ain't too bad, but if this fixtures 4000k I may have a lil bit of gripes with it aha but alas I can't find where it mentions it, definitely need to update their website with a lot more information, and get some videos out ASAP lot of money to dish out for a lot of unknowns tbh probably driving a lot of people away. I love the price definitely can see them going far.


i thought they actually cited the diode kelvin. i should have another look. most "full spectrum" boards will include at least a few 4000k diodes. at the same time they'll have a few deep red at 3000k - 2700k. even deep blues and ir sometime.

it is good to know the total count of each k the board has though.


edit: that's the advantage to the boards over the old cobs. the cobs were all parked at one kelvin. you have to mix cobs to get a balance or choose a bias. it's not as large a range.
 
i thought they actually cited the diode kelvin. i should have another look. most "full spectrum" boards will include at least a few 4000k diodes. at the same time they'll have a few deep red at 3000k - 2700k. even deep blues and ir sometime.

it is good to know the total count of each k the board has though.


edit: that's the advantage to the boards over the old cobs. the cobs were all parked at one kelvin. you have to mix cobs to get a balance or choose a bias. it's not as large a range.
Yeah, I'd of liked to see it even when I bought my 240W V3 QBs from Alibaba I was able to choose between 3000k/3500k.
 
Yeah, I'd of liked to see it even when I bought my 240W V3 QBs from Alibaba I was able to choose between 3000k/3500k.


they can print whatever you want on a board now. there's a lot more attention being applied to different diode K / how many of each / how extreme is optimal. the tech has advanced real fast.

if you check their website you can see the deep reds, and even pick up a mix of k in the pics and short vid.

if that top housing is all driver front to back it could be a monster light. it has to house the bar connectors and other stuff, so it's not all total driver. make sure to post a pic when you get it.

i'm gonna get a kill-a-watt and start testing my rigs. a couple are long in the tooth now.
 
they can print whatever you want on a board now. there's a lot more attention being applied to different diode K / how many of each / how extreme is optimal. the tech has advanced real fast.

if you check their website you can see the deep reds, and even pick up a mix of k in the pics and short vid.

if that top housing is all driver front to back it could be a monster light. it has to house the bar connectors and other stuff, so it's not all total driver. make sure to post a pic when you get it.

i'm gonna get a kill-a-watt and start testing my rigs. a couple are long in the tooth now.
yeah.
Shit man I run 3x 240W King brite V3s in 660 Deep red and i've pulled 2lbs in a 5x4 with it, love these QBs cheapo chinese ones hoping this light steps my game up though!
 
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