Grand Daddy Purple - SCROG Secret Jardin DR60

Electricity bill came. Mind my poor usage and understanding of Kilowatts and its abbreviations.

examples of math using 100 watt light

24 hours x 30 days = 720 hours / 1000 = .72 kilo hours x 100 watts = 72 kWh kilo watt hours
18 hours x 30 days = 540 hours / 1000 = . 54 kilo hours x 100 watts =54 kWh
12 hours x 30 days = 360 hours / 1000 = . 36 kilo hours x 100 watts 36 kWh


Let's assume my setup uses 320 watts per hour then:
<total for 30 days>
24 hours x 30 days = 720 hours / 1000 = .72 kilo hours x 320 watts = 230.40 kWh /30 days = 7.68 kWh per day
18 hours x 30 days = 540 hours / 1000 = . 54 kilo hours x 320 watts = 172.8 kWh /30 days = 5.76 kWh per day
12 hours x 30 days = 360 hours / 1000 = . 36 kilo hours x 320 watts = 115.2 kWh /30 days = 3.84 kWh per day


So.... Tier 1- First 323 kWh cost $ 0.15 per kWh
for example $ .15 x 323 kWh = $48.45 if used 323 kWh exactly, but if used say 400 kWh, that would be if you ran 1000 watts x 400 hours

the 2nd tier is for the next 97 kWh and cost $0.17 each kWh from above 324-420

for example .17 x 97 = $16.49


for example if 420 kWh are used would be tier 1 and 2 combined to be 323 + 97 = $48.45 + $16.49 = $64.94


then next 150 kWh were $0.34 each from 420-570 kWh

$.34 x 150 kWh = $51

Last Tier= every kWh after 570+ that was $0.36 x (hours used above 570). Not cheap that is for sure. This is not exact but pretty close to what I saw and from memory.

I'm going to do a little estimation of what it costs to run some of the things in my setup.

My 200 Watt light .200kW= .220 kW (10 percent for loss of energy, it takes more than 200 watts to power a 200 watt light, say 216 or so, I'm just estimating at 220 watts.
.220kWh x 24 hours x 30 days = 5.28kWh per day x 30 days = 158.40 kWh for 24/0 lights on each day everyday of the 30 days
.220kWh x 18 hours x 30 days = 3.96 kWh per day x 30 days = 118.80 kWh a month just for the light 18/6 during veg
.220kWh x 12 hours x 30 days = 2.64 kWh per day x 30 days = 79.2 kWh a month or around 80 kWh a month during flower



Can fan RS4HO-Max 78 watts
Air King 6 Inch Clip On Fan- 9 Watts on Setting 1, 13 Watts on Setting 2
Speedster wattage?

Total of fans+speed controller
100 watts per hour with use of fan controller and all of fans so if you have them running on 24 hours a day
2.4 kWh per day x 30 days = 72 kWh per month for fans and speed controller

120 kWh (lights) + 70 (fans) = 190 kWh (total with lights and fans per month at 18/6 veg )
80 kWh (lights) + 70 (fans) = 150 kWh (total with lights and fans per month at 12/12 flower)

190 kWh = (30 days of veg)
150 kWh = (30 days of flower)

190 kWh x 2 (for 60 days of veg)
+150 kWh x 2 (for 60 days of flower)
340 kWh for 4 months total veg and flower (this part won't help for figuring out cost, since it's calculated per month and by tiers anyway, but ya)

I have my exhaust and circulation fan come on and off every hour when the lights are off, run for an hour then they turn off for an hour, turn back on for another hour, repeat until the lights come back on, keeps humidity down and helps airflow. I think it should be on all the time though, but I'm trying to conserve my carbon filter's life until flower starts. I dunno, my first time with a carbon filter and super good fan :) I am trying to quiet the fan down, so I ordered a phresh duct muffler and can't wait to see how that helps.
 
Thank you everyone who is subbed and watching, I'm just trying to get a feel for this 2x2 size tent and learning about growing again after a year off, and also getting a feel for these two strains. I like the strain I was given by someone, I just don't know what it is yet, but it grows better than the GDP plus it was free and when i got them they were already a foot tall with fat stems and big roots. When I tried to make 3 clones, 1 from each plant (1 GDP, 2 unknown clones I'm trying to find out the genetics and if they were from seed or clones), I cloned the 3 and they were rooted in 13 days on the first try 100 percent success, and I hadn't done clones in like a year. But I must have just got lucky because I was trying different methods afterward and the first method of it happened to work and be the best method to use of the 3 different ways i tried. Perlite is the shiznit and now I know is a requirement for my method. I tried to do rockwool standing in just a thin layer of water so it was always wet, and that didn't work so well, it got green algae. I also tried a cloner, with air bubbles, but it seems like a waste of electricity and I transferred it today and surrounded by perlite in a small plastic container. I'm going to put it in a 18oz cup with drainage holes and filled with perlite and put it in a black 11x22 tray. I'll Keep them moist, not soggy or water logged. Don't let them get green on them, algae is not your friend for this. I had some roots inside the rockwool when I opened them after two weeks but so few of them and they were slow to root and it looked diseased like damping off or root root from algae, as it had some brownish black sludge. Not worried if they don't survive, I'm just learning again about cloning, so I put them in a water cup. I'm only going to keep a few clones anyway and I have the ones I need so far, but I want a few GDP to figure out the 3 leaves problem to see if it will get more than 5 leaves eventually.
 
I filled some 18 oz cups with perlite and put the 1.5 inch rockwool cubes back together and put the 3 clones I had taken on 1-14-14 in there for now to try to recover, so hopefully I didn't kill the clones when I tore open the rockwool to check for roots. Some roots very tiny broke off, but still some attached, looked like they had formed and then got stunted by damping off or from algae. It is a delicate balance keeping the stuff not too wet and not too dry. I am attempting to learn hydroponics through cloning :) But so far I don't understand how to keep the rockwool from being waterlogged when standing in a thin film of water. When I had it in my custom built little mini cloner, the water level was just barely touching the rockwool, and I could see after awhile that the rockwool was kinda waterlogged near the bottom 1/5 but somewhat above that moist to dryer towards the top, but little pieces of rockwool had disintegrated off the 1.5 inch square block and into the water. I needed to have some hydroton or something in the netcup or coco, but for me, trial and error is how I learn.
 
The gnats loved it when I used foxfarm Happy Frog, natural and organic fertilizer for tomatoes, 7-4-5 . That stuff smells too, I'm sure it's the guano and other stuff, I didn't have a carbon filter yet when I used it, and now I know not to use it in doors unless you have a carbon filter, plus I like to use the hydroponic fertilizer's, so I can learn hydro and because that they also work in soil, because they don't smell as bad and don't attract more gnats then is necessarily already attracted to the fox farm ocean forest soil.
 
Yes Hydro Clay Pebbles would be the best. You are letting light hit everything. First thing in Hydroponics never use a pot or rez that light can go threw. Always hold pot or rez to light and see if you can see light. If so you will get algae and bad bacteria. if anything get some Panda Film and cut pieces to block light. Also can use duct tape to cover pot to block light. Just some info from my grows and research. I hope you the best.
 
Ohh I forgot. for the soil I just put about 1 or 2" of sand on top of your soil. Will help keep the bugs from laying eggs and flying away and smell down...
 
Since I started my journal late into Veg basically at start of flower, I am also going to include the clones I took from them, so that way I can get a feel for how long it takes from the start of clone taking process to start of flower as well.

I took clones originally on Jan 4th, 2014, 1 GDP, 2 unknowns clones. It took about 2 weeks for a good set of roots poking out sides and bottom of rockwool sitting in perlite. After transplant into 18 oz party cups with foxfarm ocean forest,
the roots showed out the bottom of the 18 oz cups within a few days even though they were not close to being rootbound yet, and the roots turned yellow, brown, thin like a hair and die thus air pruning themselves. I think I want to start them in a bigger container but I want the roots to fill the container and not get rootbound, I like big roots like the ones that form in air pots, and rootmakers. It's a requirement for air pruning eventually but when is a good time for the first time to start air pruning, like what size containers to start with and then move to?

I think this stunted the growth a little by having the roots air prune to soon, so I'm trying to determine how long to keep them in 18 oz cups, it's been 2 weeks inside the 18 oz cups, they are a total of 4 weeks since the day I cut them from the mother plant, 2 weeks since they had good enough roots to be transferred from a 2 inch netcup filled with perlite to an 18 oz cup. If I decide to do 1 plant only I would want to know what size pot to use in a 2x2? Soil, using air pot is what I want to do. Think it's possible to do a scrog that ends at 4 feet tall? The plant would grow to 18 to 24 inches before flower induced, so from the floor to top of plant including the pot would make the plant only 3 feet tall if the pot is 1 feet high. I count from the top of the soil to the top of the plant, or do you count from the floor to top of plant? My plants can only get another foot tall or so I hope they don't stretch for flower much. 5 feet tall tent, with carbon filter and light hood clearance and height of pot I lose like 2 -3 feet of plant height, so it can only grow 2-3 feet tall max lol...because I vegged the plants to be like 2 feet tall before I put them under the netting screen that was set a foot above the top of the pots and soil, so now the plants can grow a foot more again, and I am trying to determine for next time how long to veg, what pot size, etc for either 4 plants, 3 plants, 2 plants, or 1 plant.
 
I ordered some mosquito bits and some diatomaceous earth to hopefully handle the fungus gnats. I check their wings and they are fungus gnats, not root aphids, but who knows the guy at the hydroponic store thinks it was root aphids and tried to sell me botanigard for like a hundred bucks. I almost got some SNS-203 but it all seems so expensive for so little, and it required a lot and for a soil drench a lot of work and I wasn't sure how effective it would be and didn't wanna risk it. Will update when the mosquito bit and stuff arrives and how it works. Also getting the Phresh duct muffler to quiet down the CanFan RS4HO which is rated at 5.5 sones, look up sones, it is about as loud as a T, I have to turn the TV up to like 15 when its audible at 3 normally, at try sleeping next to it, that's the story of my life...and a 22 inch wide x 22 inch length x 6.5 inch tall Internal Dimension, 23.5 inch wide x23.5 inch length x 6.5 inches Outer Dimension Botanicare white tray which I'm gonna say I saw from member hodder356 at Hodder's Scrog - MK Ultra - Soil - HPS - Air Pot
 
you can also set up a couple of fruit fly type traps to catch the ones who don't wander onto the sticky paper. tons of videos on youtube, simple, cheap, easy, effective.
 
I think I fimmed all 3 clones I took the tops of yesterday or so. I either topped or fimmed, I dunno, but I do those things, both lol or try. I did it to all of them but didn't do it soon enough because I got the plants when they were already a foot tall and I did't wanna chop them in half. This first grow in the tent is the learning curve, and with the timing on getting full grown clones 3 weeks after getting a 2 week old clone GDP, the GDP is like a month behind the 2 big ones. I had to start flower before I wanted to on the GDP but oh well. I was planning to just grow the one GDP a big scrog but someone gave me the 2 big plants and now I'm glad they did, because they are growing great, and look prettier, more leaves, big fat trunks and stems, only problem was they came with white flys or aphids under the leaves. I guess it was pay back for me giving him my old plants with leaf rollers, aka caterpillars the green ones that eat all your leaves and poop everywhere. They murdered my last crop before I noticed it was over before it started lol.
 
I have been watching you tube videos and the soapy water and stuff to attract them and drown themselves. I figure the mosquito bits too may give that a try. I ordered some of the tangle foot glue for putting more sticky glue on the yellow sticky traps, because they have more real estate available, the yellow squares that don't have any glue on it, the glue only covers like half the yellow cards. I can get yellow paper and put glue on it too for cheap, the price of the glue for a few more bucks than the 5 pack of sticky traps, and its a 6 oz tube of glue for around 6 bucks, which I assume it should go pretty far. I found 3 sticky traps from last year, plus the 5 I just bought the other day. I saw the video on you tube with sticky traps and they are on the walls and everywhere so bugs land on anything and stick lol. I have counted over 50 on the sticky traps so far. I read that up to 200 eggs are laid by the female in the top 2-3 inches of the soil. They like water, so i let the top dry out for the past few days, but it's time to water tomorrow.
Fungus Gnats as Houseplant and Indoor Pests
 
CO Finest said:
Are you topping or fim your plants at all. I do what this guys does in video. I makes the plant short and bushy
Click to expand...


I have watched this Chef B. ! and a month ago learned about super cropping, that's what got me to bend my plants in half to fit under the scrog net. Small world...
 
If you have some small perlite I have used that before on top, similar to sand to help slow down gnats but they do seem to love some FFOF soil. Just make a layer about a centimeter thick to discourage the gnats from burrowing back down to lay eggs. This can be used with other treatments and I find this stays in place a little better than sand when watering on top. It is also hard for me to tell from your pic but do you have something raising the bottom of your containers off the bottom of the tent? I know in my DS60 the bottom liner is pretty soft and I get poor drainage on some pots if I dont use a Plastic rigid drip tray underneath Might help with gnats. Good luck.
 
BudBGrowin said:
If you have some small perlite I have used that before on top, similar to sand to help slow down gnats but they do seem to love some FFOF soil. Just make a layer about a centimeter thick to discourage the gnats from burrowing back down to lay eggs. This can be used with other treatments and I find this stays in place a little better than sand when watering on top. It is also hard for me to tell from your pic but do you have something raising the bottom of your containers off the bottom of the tent? I know in my DS60 the bottom liner is pretty soft and I get poor drainage on some pots if I dont use a Plastic rigid drip tray underneath Might help with gnats. Good luck.
Click to expand...


I am waiting for the 2x2 botanicare tray for the bottom, but right now I have to really extra quad thick 11x22 trays in there, but the gnats are coming out of the bottom drainage holes and all the root pruning holes in the root maker pot. Today i counted over a hundred gnats on the sticky traps, double from yesterday.
 
I watered the plants and used some fertilizer following the chart for week 1 from Plantlife -Future Harvest Development Ltd. -Holland's Secret

all measurements are per Gallon/4 L
Micro = 6mL
Grow = 6mL
Bloom =10mL
Super B+=8mL
Royal Gold=5mL
Royal Black=5mL
Carbo Blast 1 Gram

I mix up a gallon per week, and use about 8 ounces mixed into the 16 oz water measuring cup and fill up other 8 ounces with Glacier Water from the machine's, expensive yes, am looking into a RO unit or something, I used one of those PUR filter's before the one that goes right on the faucet, but am considering an under the sink unit or better in the future. I water about 2 -3 times a week. It's not too much extra expense for the filtered water for so few plants, but it could serve dual purpose because they drink more and better than I do, that's for sure.
 
I used about 3-4 cups of water after a half a cup of fertilizer water per plant. Trying to watch the leaves and how they respond, watching for burnt yellow leaf tips, and curling leaves, dry crisp brown leaves, or blue leaves, from what I remember last year, I think they get over fertilized easily, so I will probably have some fertilizer left over from each week. Last year I grew one plant and used a Gallon per week of fertilizer, but I think it was over fertilized so I'm going to go half strength this year.



Highashell said:
I watered the plants and used some fertilizer following the chart for week 1 from Plantlife -Future Harvest Development Ltd. -Holland's Secret

all measurements are per Gallon/4 L
Micro = 6mL
Grow = 6mL
Bloom =10mL
Super B+=8mL
Royal Gold=5mL
Royal Black=5mL
Carbo Blast 1 Gram

I mix up a gallon per week, and use about 8 ounces mixed into the 16 oz water measuring cup and fill up other 8 ounces with Glacier Water from the machine's, expensive yes, am looking into a RO unit or something, I used one of those PUR filter's before the one that goes right on the faucet, but am considering an under the sink unit or better in the future. I water about 2 -3 times a week. It's not too much extra expense for the filtered water for so few plants, but it could serve dual purpose because they drink more and better than I do, that's for sure.
Click to expand...
 

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