Grand Daddy Purple - SCROG Secret Jardin DR60

The GDP wasn't trained properly and it has an extremely bushy top, because I topped everywhere on it during veg and by some miracle it has grown 4 tops, and they had tops on them up to 3. I butchered this grow on this plant, but I am learning on the clones I got from it. Also it seems to like to be a shorter an extremely bushy thing. The nodes are really close together and Fork out in 3 to 4 directions, not just 2. Like a 4 leaf clover instead of 3.
 
Just watered with the fertilizer water I made for week 2. I used the whole gallon amongst the 3 plants. They didn't quite need to be watered just yet since they were still moist under the top of the soil, but I wanted to get the bud start fertilizer in there before week 2 is over. Although there wasn't much run off, the soil is well saturated so I'm thinking of waiting at least 4 to 5 days before watering. That means on either thursday or friday next week they will be watered with the week 3 fertilizer.
 
So the phresh 4 inch duct muffler works pretty good for fifty bucks. I want another one :)
The sticky foot glue is working pretty decent on the paper plates. They have some kind of a wax? coating on the top surface, so they seem to be partly water resistant and the glue is not soaking through into the paper plate. I want to get some kind of bright yellow
paper plates if they make them in yellow? I like the different sizes to fit different size containers. Being able to cut out to fit, either circular or square, rectangular. A similar yellow color just like the white fly/aphid traps. If they made a kit with the glue contained separate, in a tube like toothpaste,or a little jar with a lid or with a mini paint brush attached to the bottom of the lid, or spray on like spray paint or one spray at a time per click, the ideas are numerous, and a bunch of blank yellow cards with perforations for cut outs and blank pages for your own ideas. It would be cool to have something re usable that you can wipe off the glue and bugs, to be able to wash it off, then reapply the sticky glue so it's a like new trap again. I guess the yellow cards from the white fly traps could probably be used like that too, I just don't know how many times. I wonder if anyone has tried that or thought of this?
 
I second Away's comment the more I see the more I learn.

Got a question though. Why the changes in lights so often? I thought of picking a set and sticking to the same set through the entire grow. Looks like I'm missing something. And I will go LED or CFL for the next grow due to power consumption. Any recommendations? I'll still be using the AG base just not the lights that come with it. They only put out a total of 100watts.

Renegade69
 
I use T5 for clones and if I had more T5's I wouldn't need to use a metal halide. The T5 at 6500K range has a lot more blue spectrum and keeps the internodes tight and close together, making a shorter bushier plant. The metal halide is in the 4200K range and has some little blue, a lot of orange, and a little red. The orange and red are more for flowering and when the plant stretches and grows and the internode spacing is farther apart. This is from my own understanding and experience of using these lights and what I am assuming from watching how clones grow under them vs metal halides. Since I only have the small tent,2x2x5, before starting flower I take clones, and have setup the wire rack shelves 4x1.5x3 for vegetation of clones. I have to keep the clones small while they wait for the flowering too be done so they can do 2 months of flowering. (Thinking perpetual harvest)

In 2 months of waiting for the flowering tent, the clones will be ready for flower, if not sooner.
2 weeks-4weeks under T5's, then 1 month under metal halide, then 2 months under hps is what I am used to, like doing, but
Ideally, I would like to try a metal halide like the eye hortilux blue for vegatation in the 6500K range, and I would still use the T5HO 6500K for the clone area while the plants are in the 18oz cups, but move them into a tent as soon as they are put into 1 gal pots for vegetation, then moved to an HPS flowering tent. I am not familiar with LED to make any expert or novice comments, other than I have no experience growing with them, but I believe they are for the more experienced grower who wants more control in fine tuning and growing with the specific lighting spectrums plants need.
 
Looks like you have CFL's in your AG. If that is the case you will want to run the 6500K range for veg 18/6, and 2700K for flower 12/12. If you can only use 100 watts total is that for two bulbs, so 50 watt max per bulb? I think they have 42 watt and 55 watt CFL, I would consider getting one of those sizes.



Renegade69 said:
I second Away's comment the more I see the more I learn.

Got a question though. Why the changes in lights so often? I thought of picking a set and sticking to the same set through the entire grow. Looks like I'm missing something. And I will go LED or CFL for the next grow due to power consumption. Any recommendations? I'll still be using the AG base just not the lights that come with it. They only put out a total of 100watts.

Renegade69
Click to expand...
 
I like my gdp shes a great girl haven't had a chance to taste her but as far as growth she is one of my favorites. She does do well with heavy defoaltion. Don't be afraid to remove a lot of leaves, the tighter your nodes the more that scrog will produce. It extends the veg time but increases the yields quite a bit. Also with less leaf materials less chance at pest. If gnats are a problem increase the air flow. The more the air gets exchanged the less chance of them being able to live and reproduce. Don't bring anything into your tent (juice) that is going to bring more gnats in they have a very short life span. Wow this was a lot more then I intended nice grow bro.
 
It looks like full spectrum 6400K but you have to check the model number on the bulbs, and it says to replace every 6 months. Looks like special proprietary for vegetative and flowering and you have to replace it with theirs. I personally wouldn't flower under this, just get them started clones and light vegetation. But what do I know.

So you can't get the 42 or 55 watt like I mentioned before.

Highashell said:
Looks like you have CFL's in your AG. If that is the case you will want to run the 6500K range for veg 18/6, and 2700K for flower 12/12. If you can only use 100 watts total is that for two bulbs, so 50 watt max per bulb? I think they have 42 watt and 55 watt CFL, I would consider getting one of those sizes.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for the tip with the defoliation. I always am a little bit hesitant to take off too much off at one time, but I end up doing it by taking off the big fan leaves stuff first then just a lot of the little suckers starting the secondary growth or small unnecessary branches mostly lower on the plant, followed by a little bit of cannopy tuck under and fan leaf trimming for the next few days. The plants adjust to the light and move so I get to see what is blocked by the light again the next day. I am a newb when it comes to defoliation, but I have been more aggressive this time than I ever have and it's been going pretty decent. I just need to clean up a little bit more under the cannopy and above the new fan leaves growing and blocking lower leaves. I need to get more aggressive but it is just so hard t cut off small bud sites :(

I wouldn't want to set the scrog net as high next time, and to start the defoliation and topping sooner before the flowering begins

Growingnow said:
I like my gdp shes a great girl haven't had a chance to taste her but as far as growth she is one of my favorites. She does do well with heavy defoaltion. Don't be afraid to remove a lot of leaves, the tighter your nodes the more that scrog will produce. It extends the veg time but increases the yields quite a bit. Also with less leaf materials less chance at pest. If gnats are a problem increase the air flow. The more the air gets exchanged the less chance of them being able to live and reproduce. Don't bring anything into your tent (juice) that is going to bring more gnats in they have a very short life span. Wow this was a lot more then I intended nice grow bro.
Click to expand...
 
HAH,

Yea the only thing I could find on them was the wattage. 50w each. Full spectrum? I had planned on playing with the AG as practice. Already planned on going to something bigger the next time around. I didn't want to go full out on the setup till I had something under my belt. Now I need to read up on what bulbs are best for this small cabinet.

It's a fun little hobby and just wanted to give it a go.

Thanks for the input...

Jump over to my journal and see my updated pics on my little gurl. I'll post an updated pic (end of week 2 pic) later today.
 
Renegade69 said:
I second Away's comment the more I see the more I learn.

Got a question though. Why the changes in lights so often? I thought of picking a set and sticking to the same set through the entire grow. Looks like I'm missing something. And I will go LED or CFL for the next grow due to power consumption. Any recommendations? I'll still be using the AG base just not the lights that come with it. They only put out a total of 100watts.

Renegade69
Click to expand...

Check out the Mars II LED in my signature.. 400W power but pulls around 170-210 ;) 420 sponsor company also.
They've also got alot of smaller and cheaper lights.
 
I just cut my scrogs slow so not to stress the plant and if you take to much your buds will replace the leaves(leafier buds). Tuck as many leaves as you can and only cut the ones that are really blocking other sites. Looks good cant wait to see the end GDP looks fun.
 
yea teldrens right a little mixed up but right cut too many leaves and it will want to replace them
it need so many of them on to survive and hrive and like he said you end up with leafier buds
 
The unknown strain was from clones taken from a strawberry x with something, kush or cough I dunno for sure but its definitely a really good strain to grow. I've only grown 3 or 4 strains but it is easy to work with compared to the GDP.

I just got a male plant, a Sour Diesel Haze, and I'm going to see if I can make some seeds. I am thinking it's too late to start this grow, so I will dedicate the next grow to seed making I think. But if I get some pollen out of some of the sacks in the next few days, I may attempt to either a branch or attempt to store some pollen in the freezer.

Currently the male was 2 weeks into 12/12 but I don't have anywhere to put it other than with my clones, and it was 3 feet tall almost. So I cut it in half or so and I need to try to get a 12/12 on it somehow by itself somewhere until the pollen starts to open, I don't want it going all over. I have the top half off the plant sitting in water, maybe the pollen sacks aren't mature enough at two weeks, and won't open for a week or more?
 
Away said:
Check out the Mars II LED in my signature.. 400W power but pulls around 170-210 ;) 420 sponsor company also.
They've also got alot of smaller and cheaper lights.
Click to expand...

Checked out your journal and sub'd.

Taking your advice on the TopLED's as well.

Renegade
 

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