placerville
New Member
I had the same problem of one strain drying quickly, I just put them in a tub with a wet paper towel, close lid and check on a regular basis, and they re-hydrated.
Medical Grow
- Thread starter Doc Bud
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #702
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Boveda
Humidipak
Try to not let it dry out too much too early, and then throw in a couple Humidipaks.
Start with 72% and work down to 69.
I'm using these things now. They are fantastic. Humidity stays exactly where you want it, no matter what. Product weight stays stable, things don't get too dry OR too moist.
This is what the premium tobacco folks use for their finest cigars.
Boveda
Humidipak
Try to not let it dry out too much too early, and then throw in a couple Humidipaks.
Start with 72% and work down to 69.
I'm using these things now. They are fantastic. Humidity stays exactly where you want it, no matter what. Product weight stays stable, things don't get too dry OR too moist.
This is what the premium tobacco folks use for their finest cigars.
airavata
New Member
Re: Need help drying
I put my harvest (dry wt. 2.4 oz.) in a 1'x1' cardboard box. I laid out my buds so it was about 50% empty space, 50% buds. and then I stacked another layer of buds on top of it, separated by a square I cut out of a paper bag. I had 4 stacks. I still had empty space at the top of the box that I filled with a paper bag. This slows the buds' drying a lot, but not so much that they mold. You could also use drying racks, a wood box or, if the humidity where you live is high enough, just hang 'em on a hanger wrapped in a paper bag.
Jorge Cervantes recommends letting them dry like that until the stems snap when you try to bend them, then loosely packing them into jars to "sweat" and burping them every day to even out the moisture content of the buds b/c they'll be drier outside than inside.
I got impatient after a week and put them into jars. I thought I waited too long because I didn't see the "sweat" on the inside of the jar he was talking about but after about a week and a half/ two and a half weeks maybe, they felt too moist and still smelled a little "green" so I put them in a paper bag for two days. That made them really crispy but when I put them back into jars for a couple days they evened out nicely. The whole process took about 3 weeks and the cure was perfect in my opinion. You can see the end result in my "continuous 2 tent grow" journal if you want. Link's in my sig.
In a nutshell, you can play around with it a little but, basically, just do what Cervantes says and you're golden.
I put my harvest (dry wt. 2.4 oz.) in a 1'x1' cardboard box. I laid out my buds so it was about 50% empty space, 50% buds. and then I stacked another layer of buds on top of it, separated by a square I cut out of a paper bag. I had 4 stacks. I still had empty space at the top of the box that I filled with a paper bag. This slows the buds' drying a lot, but not so much that they mold. You could also use drying racks, a wood box or, if the humidity where you live is high enough, just hang 'em on a hanger wrapped in a paper bag.
Jorge Cervantes recommends letting them dry like that until the stems snap when you try to bend them, then loosely packing them into jars to "sweat" and burping them every day to even out the moisture content of the buds b/c they'll be drier outside than inside.
I got impatient after a week and put them into jars. I thought I waited too long because I didn't see the "sweat" on the inside of the jar he was talking about but after about a week and a half/ two and a half weeks maybe, they felt too moist and still smelled a little "green" so I put them in a paper bag for two days. That made them really crispy but when I put them back into jars for a couple days they evened out nicely. The whole process took about 3 weeks and the cure was perfect in my opinion. You can see the end result in my "continuous 2 tent grow" journal if you want. Link's in my sig.
In a nutshell, you can play around with it a little but, basically, just do what Cervantes says and you're golden.
Doc,
I am probably going to try 12/12 from start if I can talk my friend into it.
Question I have is should I use MH until hairs show then switch to HPS? Or just use HPS from the start?
And how many weeks should I expect it to take from seed to finish?
The threads I follow have sure been quiet lately, I hope everyone is well.
I am probably going to try 12/12 from start if I can talk my friend into it.
Question I have is should I use MH until hairs show then switch to HPS? Or just use HPS from the start?
And how many weeks should I expect it to take from seed to finish?
The threads I follow have sure been quiet lately, I hope everyone is well.
- Thread starter
- #705
Well, this thread is over. This was my last grow, and the new grow is well under way.....
However, when doing 12/12 from seed, I don't know how much it really matters what light you use. I did mine with HPS, an Eye Hortilux, which is pretty orange. My new lights, Lumateks, have more blue in them and higher PAR output.
I suppose I'd just go with HPS.
How many weeks? Flowering time plus 1 month. The plants veg themselves for a month anyways. Veg nutes, or a higher nitrogen fert will slow down the flowering and extend the veg time just a bit....which is a good thing, imo.
So, an 8 week strain will go 12 weeks from seed.
I've got 9 Blue Dreams going 12/12 on my current grow.
wonderwill
New Member
Hey Doc -
Quick question; my new tented-room is 18' long and I'm looking to replicate your 3-lamp 1-light rail w/ rebar formula. What length are your tracks and how did you position them, leaving enough room on both ends for exiting vent hose?
Coming up on my 1-year anniversary and very excited to move into proper tented-room w/ CO2 and built-in AC unit.
Quick question; my new tented-room is 18' long and I'm looking to replicate your 3-lamp 1-light rail w/ rebar formula. What length are your tracks and how did you position them, leaving enough room on both ends for exiting vent hose?
Coming up on my 1-year anniversary and very excited to move into proper tented-room w/ CO2 and built-in AC unit.
- Thread starter
- #707
Hey bro, thanks for stopping by.
We used 3 pieces of track, each was about 3 feet long. The motor and stops are all on the middle piece. The rebar is attached to the motor and then to passive cars that run on the outer tracks. All of the lights hang from the rebar.
We left enough room on both sides for venting by setting up the venting FIRST, and arranging the lights and flood tables around the venting contraints.
There are pics of the set up on the first page of the journal.
18 feet should be great! I believe our rebar is 13 feet long. We have an 8x4 and a 4x4 flood table oriented the long way , the the middle light centered on the length, and the others positioned so they cover the ends. It's like having 3 separate trays with one light each.........
except when the lights move back and forth they cover more ground, so it's actually like having 4 lights.
wonderwill
New Member
Perfect - just what I was asking for. Thanks Bro; I'll make you proud yet, or cough out loud trying!!
wonderwill
New Member
Hey Doc -
Are you using the Light Rail 3.5 Intelli-Drive? Is that motor sufficient to move the three lamps using the rebar? Is your center length of aluminum longer to accommodate the stop pieces or are 3 equal lengths of 3-feet enough? Where/how did you score a 13' piece of rebar - what type of supply house might I try?
Thank you sir...
Are you using the Light Rail 3.5 Intelli-Drive? Is that motor sufficient to move the three lamps using the rebar? Is your center length of aluminum longer to accommodate the stop pieces or are 3 equal lengths of 3-feet enough? Where/how did you score a 13' piece of rebar - what type of supply house might I try?
Thank you sir...
- Thread starter
- #710
Yup.....using the 3.5. Obviously, it's sufficient to move the 3 lamps....but we aligned the track with a laser. (engineer grow partner). We also used 3 identical pieces of track.
The rebar can be found at any construction supply place, and they'll usually cut it to order for you. You don't have to use rebar....if you had an aluminum dowell that would work, but it would be very expensive.
nice setup
Well, we're making progress on the new room! Here are some basic features:
I a now growing "professionally" for people who need safe, healthy medical MJ. In order to do this, I needed some resources....namely a larger room and the ability to put some plants (mostly males) outside.
I'm going to shoot for what I call "reputation building" product; not only for people who need it right now, but looking ahead to legalization, I want to have a future in Cannabis....like a small, boutique winery. So, I better start learning right now!
We'll be breeding. We'll have 3 or 4 house strains and add things when something interests us. I'll also be building a seed bank. (got help for this) And finally, in the coming months I'll be providing young nursery plants for people who want to grow their own.
At this point, I don't want to say more about my business structure, business plan, etc. I'll only say this: We're legal, we aren't advertising, and we're all physicians, except for a PhD and a civil engineer. We're doing this for the "right" reasons.....not just for money. (we all make good money in our day jobs.)
So, here's an update on the room:
All lights are on 220. Fans are on 110.
3 Lumatek 1000 watt HPS lights, vented hoods, on movers.
1 New Wave 8 bulb T5 for seedlings
Co2
Sentinel, digital controller, with remote sensor will manage the environment and link everything together for us.
fans, dehumidifiers and possible AC for warm summer months.
We've sealed the room and hung Panda.
We're on a well, PPM's are in the 500 range, PH 6.5.
I'll be testing the TA very soon, but this water is growing fantastic vegetables.
Because I'm about 2 weeks behind schedule, I'll probably run some clones through while seeds are sprouting.
We're going to be growing 12/12 from seed, starting new seeds every 3 weeks or so....as soon as sex can be determined from the previous seeds, then we'll move the girls under the big lights.
For edibles (great choice for folks who are too sick to cough, etc.) we'll probably grow in hempy buckets, because it's cheap and easy, with good yield.
For smoke, I'll be attempting to make a "secret" soil blend, which I'll share with all of you.
One of our members has been growing for 35 years and I know a few other seasoned pro's....so I've got a bit of a brain trust to draw on, in addition to my own passion.
I feel very, very positive about this new endeavor!
Next step, install the environmental controls and Co2, then fire the whole thing up and check temps, RH, etc.
The tables will be raised to waist level, we just had them on the ground to help position the lights.
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