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[Aaron Quix]

I don't think it's N, Brother, but you may be correct. It looks more like interveinal chlorosis to me (yellowing between the veins) and, I believe, a N deficiency would cause the veins to yellow, too. Maybe an iron deficiency?

If you don't try to fix it, how are we ever gonna figure out what it is???

Ugh, dude, you're gonna MAKE me face this issue aren't you!?

Here are a few samples under better light.
Now, I'll have to look at some Fe def samples to get a better idea but for now, I can tell you that my original def looked spot on to this, the classic Mg def.

That issue cleared right up with the addition of Cal/Mag.

What I have now, is starting at the lowest leaves and working its way up.

I DO seem to see what MAY be slight Ca def, but mostly looks like N def to me.

I'm open to learning though, so bear with me. (insert bear imoji here)

 

[Mr. Krip]

Yeah, now that I see them up close, I think you're correct. It looked more like yellowing between the veins from the original pic, but I see what you mean, and if it started at the bottom, it's likely N.

Here's some info on Fe deficiencies:

If your plant has an iron deficiency, their new leaves will start lacking in chlorophyll. There won’t be any necrotic spots, as with some other nutrient deficiencies, but the leaves will turn a bright yellow while retaining their green veins.

New leaves will show signs of chlorotic molting, which will make the center of the leaves have a brown mark. Other signs include upper fan leaves and smaller inner leaves turning yellow. Occasionally these leaves will even turn white. Most often you will see symptoms toward the top of the newer leaves.

Iron deficiencies resemble magnesium deficiencies, with the exception that iron will affect every bit of new growth other than the leaves toward the bottom of the plant. Magnesium, on the other hand, will affect the middle and lower leaves from the beginning. Iron is low mobility so you won’t see too much movement in where the plant is affected.

 

[Aaron Quix]

I think we can rule Fe out. I'm 99% it's N def.....Now, to figure out why.
If I were to speculate, I'd say it's one of two, but maybe TWO causes.

1. Nutrient lockout-Caused by
A: Improper PH-Caused by
a. Tap water
b. Old Nutes (5years old)
c. Both (likely)

B. Nutrient toxicity-Caused by
a. Old nutes
b. Me being new to coco
c. Both (likely)

C. All of the above.

There are too many variables and too little time left in flower to meet in the middle with a solution. Therefore....Ride it out!

Yeah, now that I see them up close, I think you're correct. It looked more like yellowing between the veins from the original pic, but I see what you mean, and if it started at the bottom, it's likely N.

Here's some info on Fe deficiencies:

 

[millertm]

I'm a soil guy so I PH every time I feed. I like to know where I'm feeding at to keep plants happy. COCO does wick Ca/Mg, off plants. There's only two ways to look at your issue. Too much or not enough food. Late flower gets acidic and Ca/Mg is locked out with low PH < 6. If your still under 6, adding more will not help much but don't quote me since Coco has different PH points then soil, (I'm using soil values above) but I'd look at getting a PH strip or something to help understand where your feeding at each time.

Sent from my SPH-L720T using 420

 

[Aaron Quix]

Thanks for the input my friend.
A couple things to your point.
I agree a PH meter would be ideal, but it's not in the budget right now. But believe me, it's on the list! It drives me crazy when I'm not able to KNOW something, and I'd love to know what my ph is. But I won't be running coco from here on out, this was just a rescue. I would go get some cheap strips, but it won't make any difference at this point, as I'm already resigned to riding this one out.
I am a soil guy too, and am already moving back to soil for the next 11 plants.

One question for you though...I've NEVER messed with PH in soil, because my understanding has always been that you shouldn't need to when running dirt. You say you check it every time?

For what it's worth, last I checked, my tap was around 6.5-6.8.

I'm a soil guy so I PH every time I feed. I like to know where I'm feeding at to keep plants happy. COCO does wick Ca/Mg, off plants. There's only two ways to look at your issue. Too much or not enough food. Late flower gets acidic and Ca/Mg is locked out with low PH < 6. If your still under 6, adding more will not help much but don't quote me since Coco has different PH points then soil, (I'm using soil values above) but I'd look at getting a PH strip or something to help understand where your feeding at each time.

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[millertm]

Famous last words. I locked out my share of plants with that train of thought. Come to my place and I'll show you an example of feeding same PH with dialed nutes. I'm having a good run for some reason this grow. But, I did go my first run (GSC, Cinex) without PH'ing.

Cheers

Sent from my SPH-L720T using 420

 

[Aaron Quix]

Famous last words. I locked out my share of plants with that train of thought. Come to my place and I'll show you an example of feeding same PH with dialed nutes. I'm having a good run for some reason this grow. But, I did go my first run (GSC, Cinex) without PH'ing.

Cheers

Sent from my SPH-L720T using 420

Problem is, I don't have the time or money to invest in correcting it. Strips are too iffy. If I get something to test ph, it'll be a Hannah or an Oki. Then there's waiting on it to ship, testing etc just find out if I need ph up or down. Then there's flushing, then correcting. By then I'm 7 weeks into flower, with two to go. Sorry but I just don't have the time, money or patience to deal with it. This plant was a rescue, and an experiment, and, I can learn almost as much from failure as I can from success.
If this mother plant locks out and my buds stall, I have 11 plants in soil right behind her.
I am fortunate enough to have that luxury this time. Hopefully I will fare better in soil. I like my dirt!!


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[TheBlaze]

Most likely lockout due to pH, but I agree with you... just ride it out at this point. She still looks good. Chances are your pH is a bit too high. I suppose you could wing it, by adding a few drops of pH down to your nute/water from now on. If you don't swing it too far the other way, it should help.

 

[Aaron Quix]

Most likely lockout due to pH, but I agree with you... just ride it out at this point. She still looks good. Chances are your pH is a bit too high. I suppose you could wing it, by adding a few drops of pH down to your nute/water from now on. If you don't swing it too far the other way, it should help.

Yeah, my tap water is high for coco. I need some Great White mycos from the hydro store anyway, I'll probably grab some ph down and try that today.

Thanks for the advice.


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[Aaron Quix]

Ok, here's a little tid bit about me. I can be slightly hard headed sometimes when it comes to changing, well, anything.
Also, I absolutely despise not knowing something, if its having an affect on me, either positively or negatively. I just have to know.

So I bought some test drops by GH, and my water here is a bit higher than I thought.

Say hello to 7.5-8 pH.

Luckily, I decided to buy some PH down too. I'll be tinkering with my water for the next few days, testing both with and without nutrients to try and dial in the range.

Thanks for the push guys

 

[TheBlaze]

LOL! I am exactly the same! Stubborn as a fucken mule.

Good luck bud.

 

[Aaron Quix]

Most likely lockout due to pH, but I agree with you... just ride it out at this point. She still looks good. Chances are your pH is a bit too high. I suppose you could wing it, by adding a few drops of pH down to your nute/water from now on. If you don't swing it too far the other way, it should help.

Ok, quick opinion poll. Should I lower PH all the way from 8 to the desired range of 5.5-6, or gradually lower PH one point over the next few waterings? Is a 2.5 swing going to shock the plant? Or will it thank me for proper PH?

GO!

 

[Aaron Quix]

Also, my nutes only specify to keep res PH between 5.2 and 6.8. Obviously I don't maintain a res, so should I PH the water first or PH the nutrient solution? I see a lot of differing opinions out there....

 

[Mr. Krip]

Also, my nutes only specify to keep res PH between 5.2 and 6.8. Obviously I don't maintain a res, so should I PH the water first or PH the nutrient solution? I see a lot of differing opinions out there....

ALWAYS PH adjust the FINAL solution! Don't listen to those other boneheads! I'm the only bonehead you need to listen to on this!

Anytime you add nutes, it's going to throw off the PH, which is why you adjust the final solution.

 

[Aaron Quix]

You're my number 1 bonehead Krip!

ALWAYS PH adjust the FINAL solution! Don't listen to those other boneheads! I'm the only bonehead you need to listen to on this!

Anytime you add nutes, it's going to throw off the PH, which is why you adjust the final solution.

 

[Aaron Quix]

I've got 1hr 37 min to shower, PH and water. I'll update later. Much love guys!

 

[TheBlaze]

Are you growing in soil with organic nutes, or coco/hydro with salts?

 

[Aaron Quix]

Are you growing in soil with organic nutes, or coco/hydro with salts?

Yes, no, yes and yes...Lol.
The mother plant in flower is in coco with salts, and I have 11 plants in soil, in veg, that will be getting Dutch Pro soon. My PH problem is only on the mother, in coco.

 

[TheBlaze]

Ok, so aim for a pH of around 6.0

I wouldn't bother adjusting it over time. As Mr. Krip pointed out, adjust pH after adding nutes. Make sure to shake nute solution well, before adding pH. Then shake it well after adding pH as well. If you think you've shaken it enough... shake some more. Measure, and adjust accordingly. Then shake some more. Try not to overshoot the mark though.

 

[millertm]

I would shoot for PH range on your bag of soil. FFOF states 6.3 to 6.8. Keep it in that range. If your at 8, there will be unused nutes in soil when you unlock. I'd water with only PH'ed water until all old nutes have been used or flushed. I'm not a fan of flushing large amounts of water through your pot, but sometimes it's needed.

Cheers

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