Answers to these nutrient and additive questions cannot be found online

T

tacobean

Active Member
I have questions and perhaps you reading this may have experience or useful info to provide.

Bud Candy,

can it be used on a 1 week old seedling and would this benefit the entire life cycle if given early as possible? Not just in flower, right?
Very aware this additive is not imperative but is it effective? Who has deep experience with this product? Its not just molasses. Used molasses, worked great. This may be better, can one use from seed with no burn risk?


Sensi Bio Diesel - bloom booster? Im not sure what this is so if you know please outline its function? Seems to work! Very expensive.

Can this product burn blooming plants used in slight excess? Should this be spiked, scaled up slowly? What method

Using 6ml in 10l, is more merrier with these organic boosters or is less the key?
Severely under dosing appears to leave good results?

Please google this flowering additive, sites Exploded when this stuff made contact with the soil overnight, the next days and does so every water.
- Bat Guano, amini acids, fulvates and other



Rhino skin - silica,

Will using this from a seedling stage stunt future growth potential?
When should this be applied to autoflowering varities with a mere 3 week veg time? Full cycle use or not and why not or why so? Do we have a silica expert on these forums?
Does a little bit of excess silica leave a strange taste or burn unnaturally in its risidual combustion or anything undesirable? Does adding silica always produce a larger plant?


Sensizyme - enzymes early on produce a bigger and better girl?

Should a soil base be soaked this this solution before seed sewing?

Will this product be effective in soil?
Is rhizotonic nearly the same product in effect?

Thanks in advance for replying if you have relative info and choose to educate me.
 
I forgot the most important question of all and it effects thousands if not millions of people,


AF Seedlings at say week 2-3 that one way or another have encountered a very minor leaf end tip burn from overfertilization,

Does this cause any noticable decline in normal growth rate or genetic potential thereon indefinitely, in anyones thorough experience?

Please share your "over-fed sapling to handsome tree" success stories also as I would like any experiences related to how these biologicals grow. But I am looking more at negative effects being most common,

Not at all referring to the 1% photosynthesis loss or w.e from losing a small fraction of the seedlings usable leaf tissue....

I am asking if there is anyone out there whom can assure me on yes or no as to if seedling vigour diminishes after only slight to noticable tip burn compared to those unaffected in a hypothetical side by side..

Perhaps the metabolism may get spun out due to an over supply of nutrients from hot soil, sensetive genetics or over watering slow release resulting in minute tip ends effected over the plant.

set to different functions that are no longer harmonic for growth in those important next stages?
 
Oh this is a fun one...I dont have time now but will get this to ya this evening. This will take a lot of typing.

A few years back they were stupid and had all of the "ingredients" on the web site and if you knew your stuff you could figure it all out. I did and started making m th own of everything you really want from AN line. All of this is simple to answer but it is a lot of questions.


But for starters..bud candy has 2 reasons really. One of them is full life cycle but only every 2 weeks and you can do other stuff to avoid in veg. The second reason is bloom.

Bio desile you don't need. We can talk about it but ot is waste of time. We can make our own better stuff for pennies.

Silica is important for a few reasons. But it really helps in your home brew to pH it properly then it gets naturally added.

You can make it all in a bucket for way less and it works better as it is fresh. Learn about EWC tea and then let's chat about how you add the right ingredients to get the AN line stuff you reall need.

Typing on a phone will get you more later. I explain it all in my journal on how to grow for cheap making it all yourself. It was a requested how to journal that explains everything down to collecting pollen in a bloom tent for propagation without causing problems.

I got tired of explaining all the same stuff so I did a journal and it is all there.
 
VilliageIdiot said:
Oh this is a fun one...I dont have time now but will get this to ya this evening. This will take a lot of typing.

A few years back they were stupid and had all of the "ingredients" on the web site and if you knew your stuff you could figure it all out. I did and started making m th own of everything you really want from AN line. All of this is simple to answer but it is a lot of questions.


But for starters..bud candy has 2 reasons really. One of them is full life cycle but only every 2 weeks and you can do other stuff to avoid in veg. The second reason is bloom.

Bio desile you don't need. We can talk about it but ot is waste of time. We can make our own better stuff for pennies.

Silica is important for a few reasons. But it really helps in your home brew to pH it properly then it gets naturally added.

You can make it all in a bucket for way less and it works better as it is fresh. Learn about EWC tea and then let's chat about how you add the right ingredients to get the AN line stuff you reall need.

Typing on a phone will get you more later. I explain it all in my journal on how to grow for cheap making it all yourself. It was a requested how to journal that explains everything down to collecting pollen in a bloom tent for propagation without causing problems.

I got tired of explaining all the same stuff so I did a journal and it is all there.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info link, however one already has the said nutrients and additives so perhaps when the bottles are exhusted the transition will begin. Training wheels here.. now ofcourse there will be questions due to your extensive knowledge of doses and reactions,

All answers would be great relative to 9L of water, one uses 1.5ml of grow and 1.5ml of bloom at week 5 currenrly and is concerned over likely starving the metabolism..

How much Bud candy good sir per 9L of water? 3 week seedling auto about to bloom, should it be given from week 2? How heavy the dose for benefits? When to cease use?

Bio Diesel? 4ml per L? Sounds like madness, is this a booster? What concentrations per 9L in week 3 preflowers for avg auto?

Sensizyme? Please elaborate on if only to use in flower or perhaps from germ saturation of soil?

What about rhini skin, how much silica is neccessary? When to cut it off?

Please guide us with your experience regarding diminishing returns with dosage of these allsorts.
 
I am a bit busy this weekend and will try to elaborate. I think we are misscomunicating. I can show you how to make all the stuff from the advanced nute line for cheap and easy.

What you are asking appears to be unrelated so I think we misscomunicating. You are asking the wrong questions. The bottles all tell you standard dose and that needs in general almost no adjustment. you are thinking hard about the stuff that is solved and missing the point. The amount of mL per L is on the bottle. And once you understand growing none of it matters as you look at the plant and can tell.

So for example...how much bud candy? Well the answer is not mL the answer is what stage of growth are you in so what is your purpose. If you are skipping the beneficial stuff then it doesn't matter except for a few weeks in bloom. And even then it doesn't... unless your plant is thriving and a few other things are going well.

Figguring the numbers already on the bottles is a lot is wasted brain power. A decent soil needs nothing. I build all of this into my soil and give nothing but water once a week because I learned the WHY for all of this. RHINO SKIN is a marketing name for silica which, like bud candy, all the nute manufactures make. You can get this same stuff from anywhere. I prefer Mad Farmers silica. It has multiple purposes and helps in all stages. You cant over do it as it is not a fertilizer. So use a lot all the time...no not really. There is much to learn about each additive.

I explained in multue threads many times how all the AN line is made I will hunt them down and try to paste a link here.

It is vastly more important to understand what each component is used for and why before mixing it all up. Then the numbers are obvious.

It gets easier just focus on the learning not the bogus numbers.

My numbers will be different as I have different grow conditions. My room will not be like yours and may have worse conditions. I may need to do bigger backflips to make the same quality.

Peace.
 
@TorturedSoul will like this one.. wouldn't mind reading his reply...
 
So 2 things.

1) You do you. I made a "How to" journal on request that explains all this stuff whuch you can read any time. The moment mine was completed they started the rewards for journals. I used to fix disastrous grows on here all the time with this technique. I only have a cell right now so hunting down these old threads will take some time I just dont have. But in the journal the better ones are linked. In about a month I get all my shit back and can do ya justice.

2) Everyone's environment, especially indoors, is different. I may have to water more than you for some reason like I have fabric pots or something. There is no magic number for anything. The plant and the whole environment it thrives in is constantly cycling. Making them happy is all you need to do and they will blow up. Pushing them is not needed. They do best when left alone properly. Make them happy and they will thrive.


For example let's talk bud candy.

Every nute manufacture out there has a sugar they supply to the market. Depending on your experience and how you use it some are easier to use but none really so difficult that one is so much better. If you know what you are doing you can make the sugar of your choice work for you. But the real question was about use over life cycle.

It is not helpful to the plant in most stages but if you want it may be beneficial to your soil.

The reason for this is because sugars are the product of photosynthesis. In the beginning you want the plant to build more leaves and more nodes. Just like you starve it for water so that the roots grow bigger, if you give it sugars it doesn't need to make leaves. That is bad. The leaves are the solar panels doing all the work. You want them building up and storing nutrients. Then in the flowering stage they use that stuff in the ripening stages when they wither off.

That is when you need bud candy. When the leaves that do all the work are falling off and the plant is not making sugars then you keep pumping them in to keep it juicing the THC resin.

So there is about 2 weeks near the end of bloom where sugars are great and the plant will use them. But other than that the plant wont really use or need them. As long ass it is willing to grow new green leaf it doesn't help the plant to add sugars. Only durring the wilt stage.

But for the soil it helps every 2 weeks if you do a live soil.

There is a bit more to it but that's a start for the one ingredient. Let's talk about why that Nirvana stuff is so awesome next time. It is really just 2 things that have been well understood and used in farming for a long time.

And ask tourself... what is a bloom booster. Since that is not a fertilizer because a fertilizer is a nutrient and that is what those are called...how do bloom boosters work. (Same principal as LST...LSIA Low Stress Immunity Attacks)
Those are "dangerous" and in the wrong hands and may create hermaphrodites. What's on the market is intentionally weak otherwise you break shit.

Gotta run
 
FelipeBlu said:
Some thoughtful questions! I’m also interested in hearing from a “silica expert”
:nomo:
Click to expand...
I'm no silica expert but silica used as a foliar and drench helps strengthen the plants and helps build resistance to fungus and pests.

I personally use it in every grow mainly as a drench in correlation with their nutrients .

ALWAYS add silica first before adding any nutes as it naturally lowers PH.
 
Silica is very important and used the entire grow basically, and is how that clone with no roots was able to stand up with a jar sized bud at the top. It is used in the stalks amongst other places to create strong fibers. Then the weed stands up strong even with heavy buds. Helps keeps things from falling over which helps prevent fungus and mold and rot. There are lots of benefits to strong sturdy stalks that can hold up fat buds.

I use it to control the pH of my tea until I don't need that anymore, then regular use. Also silica takes about 2 weeks to break down enough to absorb but in a tea you can break it down overnight.
 
I tried one grow using silica as an additive. I didn’t see any positives in my grow, but did have issues with solubility. Silicate likes high pH. I run pH 5.5-6.1 water so it liked to form globules. It is probably different in soil.
 
Silica takes 2 weeks to break down so if running hydro you need to be running a stable system you dont need to flush. Or break it down in a tea and introduce it ready to absorb.

It has very good benefits when used correctly. Like anything if not absorbed well it has limited impact. Using it in your tea makes pHing the tea much easier.
 
VilliageIdiot said:
Silica takes 2 weeks to break down so if running hydro you need to be running a stable system you dont need to flush. Or break it down in a tea and introduce it ready to absorb.

It has very good benefits when used correctly. Like anything if not absorbed well it has limited impact. Using it in your tea makes pHing the tea much easier.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the great info and accurate criticisms, very helpful.

Funny stuff they listed exact ingredients, their stuff is great so all would appreciate your link so one can learn, make mistakes and create my own at a more concentrated, cheaper cost.

For the moment sir, how does one create such clean and dense fire using these overpriced, watered down items?

Is rhino skin readily available on contact without further breaking down in the soil?

Unfortunate timing as earlier today a necessary feeding ceremony was initiated prior to reading the bud candy info, and so bud candy was included.

No not looking for miracle numbers, one understands variables but was more curious over which of these products listed could be dialed up in dosage for more effective result per stage or moment. And with the dose being used is 1/4 and therefor underdosing in vital weeks was ones concern.
You are absolutely bang on with the learning each individual micro and macro, reactions and indications, this is most important moreso than unknowingly adding label juice to soil.. but there is juice and this is how its application goes, criticize schedule please if any see error,

2x3x6 space, 3 Gallon Fabric pot, 35% perlite to soil.

White widow auto from Pyramid Seeds (very easy to nute burn this WW one can see, all Ww sensetive anyone aware?)

Week 1 - feeds off 6 week seedling soil nutes (soil 6.0), only water with seasol kelp liquid around outer pot @6.6ph this week/5days

Week 2 - feeds off soil, only water again along side another cap/lid of seasol

Week 3 - Rhino skin 1ml mixed into 7l water first, is first mixing Si necessary with AN rhino skin?
By now the soil nutes are not enough as yellowing on single finger first leaves occurs so after Silicon:
- 0.5ml per 7l sensi grow A and B, should 0.5 bloom be added also at this time for root stim when its autos or will this induce early flowering which isnt desirable as we want max veg for greater plant size??

- 1.0 ml per 7l sensizyme, is week 3 okay for this? With such a small plant (8inner nodes, 4-5 sets of leaf) there would be near no dead roots or dead leaf for the product harvest through the plant?

- seasol 1 cap per 7l, been using this at all stages, insane? If not why, would like to stop this if its not beneficial.

- bud candy @1ml to 7l, one understands from what youve said the plant now has an abundance of sugar and will become lazy, any way one can take the sugar BACK off of her?
With bloom voming this week as its week 3, will bud candy have destroyed the stretch?

Once also, accidently deliberately dropped a few tiny 0.1mls of Biodiesel (bat guano, aminos etc...) into the week 3 seedling mix, what negative effects did this one week premature dose have on them?
Perhaps it may cause the early bloom one was trying to avoid.

SENSIZYME
RHINO SKIN
BUD CANDY
BIO DIESEL FLOWER BOOSTER,
B-52

These are all one has to work with, so how to best make it work from week 1 to 10 lifecycle?

Also B-52 has arrived, does one even need b-52 with already having Biodiesel with acids and fulvates, candy with alot of similar stuff, sensizyme maybe?

Which are conflicting? And so with all these (seeing incredible results btw) the next few weeks are as follows, find error in this please:

Week 4 (bloom stretch is in) /7litre bucket of water 6.6ph

- 0.5 ml sensi grow A B
- 0.5 ml sensi bloom A B
- 1.0 ml Rhino Skin (should it be doubled 5 days later from last 1.0 dose for stretch????)
- 1.0 ml Sensizyme (needed or no after using it prior to stretch?, when to use again?)
- Bud Candy (would have but now will not use until last 2 or 3 weeks depending on decay as stunted leaf mass before stretch and during is not ideal according to your instruction)
- Seasol 1cap - just to protect the roots or something? Helps move nutes across membrane barriers or something? whatever helps me justify adding this?

Should B52 be added pre stretch @ 1/4 or 1/8 the dose as per usual such as 0.5ml or 1ml to 7l? And does this continue until flush

Also whats important today in noob town is,
Can I soak pre germinated soil with silica and sensizyme? Should I? Are root stims vital secrets to a big plants in smaller containers?

Perhaps some Roots excellurator or Rhizo need to be obtained as in weeks 1 and 2 there is no super sauce in the water regimen for roots in early veg?

Path of least resistance,
Greatest growth, girth, gains
Greatest foundation, healthiest environment. I want these using only the bottles currently mentioned.

You didnt suggest to drop anything except the bio diesel (please send a recipe of the most simple super soil),
So these other additives are all beneficial at some stage?
One at the beginning asked which stages to add what and how much more can I add, and I thank you for partial information in your reply.

Week 4 is approaching and fearing a lack in structure and discipline with this critical stage, only a master grower or the gods can give widow her best shot at being bit and thick.

P.S you say Biodiesel aka bat guano can be made for pennies on the D, but is it effective? You say drop it but what if the soil isnt loaded with any guano or worm casings??

Flowering site pistols blew up and seemed to reach for the sky when this was added, noticed during the subsequent days thereafter to an obvious extent, ofcourse it was more likely the influx of fresh nutes and water but the explosion seemed real?
Bud candy also, added and two days later density happened and tops gained tops on flower tips, whats going on here? The plants are reacting as the bottles had stated they may..

Hence the rhino skin, B52 and Sensizyme were bought.

One now understands bud candy thanks to you, it will only be used when leafs stop functioning to maintain oils and tric potency.

Please help us understand sensizyme, b52 and "plant stress activator" my Biodiesel activates, and also the importance with their timing, much the same as the timing of Bud candy you mentioned.

This is excellent.
 
Again this not an effective means of asking a question.

You can ask one or two at things at a time. I have been growing most of my life and can answer any question about anything growing cannabis, hydro or soil. I do not have the time on a cell phone to scroll up and down to respond to this effectively.

You want a book on everything. That is why the experts on here like me make journals. There are lots of journalis by people showing off. But there are also journals by people trying to teach. I am not here to show off and proved that years ago.

If you have a question about something I will explain it. What you have are so many incorrect ideas there I can't begin to decide where to start to help you.

You need to do some research and decide what type of growing you want to do and learn about that.

Growing weed is incredibly simple. It is very incorrect and the 2nd most common newb thing to do wrong is trying to push in more nutes. That never works even though many people think it does. They are misunderstanding what is happeneing as they do not understand photosynthesis or horticulture.

No...pushing in nutes will not make it better in fact it ussually causes burn and other bad problems. Can even stunt the plant. Over doing it doesn't help at all.

Rhino skin you should add every 2 weeks period except I would use a better quality brand. Addvanced nutrients is propaganda and marketing. I have used it all and it doesnt make you better plants. Just costs more.

And all of this info is available on the internet. Nothing about growing weed is unknown or not documented. Anything you want to know is available online if you do the right search.

But mine or somone elses numbers are meaningless in your closed artificial system.

One day that will make sense to you.

If you start a journal I can teach you how to grow like a pro with little effort.
 
Fertilizers support growth they do not encourage growth. That is the biggest misnomer out there. You can't make it grow faster or better with fertilizers. What you can do is slow down and prevent vigorous growth if not enough exist.

Have more than the plant can use is irrelevant and will cause a number of problems.

The best way to speed up and get more vigor out of the plant is water less often and only when you see signs of it being dry in the leaves or making the temps and humidity nice.

Get the temps and humidity right and then you will have a fast growing large plant. Much more important than fertilizers.
 
Holly Bat Guano Batman

Ya think the OP is trying to learn way to much to soon about every type and aspect of every nute

Good for you, but won't necessarily make yer girls better like @VilliageIdiot has said a few times

@tacobean have you grown weed before, or even veggies??

I follow the KISS principal, keep it simple stupid, works great for me, as you learn more apply it, Google is your friend, bears do shit in the woods, and Bigfoot is real

Good luck on yer edumacation
 
Learn the why for each of these and then the when is obvious. Senizyme is an enzyme.. almost everyone sells an enzyme. They have many uses but best to use in the tea first and introduce that way. Then it goes in every two weeks and does its job breaking down the rhinoskin over night.

Bloom enhances are not effective if you do not have a healthy thriving plant. You can't get into 6th gear from 2nd gear. No point in making a bloom booster if it is not a healthy monster to begin with.

Just adding stuff doesn't fix things or make it better.

You say things in there like maybe this or maybe that...on stuff that is well understood and written down. It just takes some reading or asking one simple question at a time.

For example in your post you have a section where you write... maybe these could cause early bloom. Well one of the four might but likely only causes fertilizer burn when inappropriately applied. The other 3 cant really be overdosed really.

So to explain correctly how that one thing is wrong will take a while.
 
Village and Chris both make great points.

Weed is a simple plant to grow and your should grasp the concept of a simple grow before adding in nutes and bloom boosters.

There is a simple feed method that has worked for centuries ! WATER! They have grown outside and flourished naturally. Try starting off simple, building your knowledge and approach it with a better knowledge of the plant and it’s growing environment!

This is just my thoughts so I hope this doesn’t offend you! I researched for months and read endless journals of the experienced growers before I started my journey and it has payed off very well for me! Best of luck friend.

Keep it green!
 
Dutchman1990 said:
Village and Chris both make great points.

Weed is a simple plant to grow and your should grasp the concept of a simple grow before adding in nutes and bloom boosters.

There is a simple feed method that has worked for centuries ! WATER! They have grown outside and flourished naturally. Try starting off simple, building your knowledge and approach it with a better knowledge of the plant and it’s growing environment!
Click to expand...

:thumb: I too am a firm believer in the KISS method like Chris, as I would rather have a smaller amount of good stuff than a much larger quantity of crap. Too many folks try/want to be a Race Car Driver before they have learned to drive and that can end not well at all much of the time. Just one of them IMHO things, but you will have better results in a plant with deficiencies than one with an overabundance of things it don't want/need (deficiencies are easier to correct also and too much can act more like a poison than a beneficial chemical). Like other living things it will adapt and if it needs something it can't find it will cannibalize unessential parts (lower leaves) for things it needs, as it's only objective is to make flowers and get pollinated so it can reproduce, as it knows it "typically" or "in nature" won't live thru all 4 seasons (as not how it was designed).
Later down the road you can work on "quantity" once you have the "quality" part down if one so chooses or needs to (growing commercially or something, but thinking you can do that be reading a few things and asking questions rarely bodes well as a living organism and just freaking too many variables for that to work out well most of the time). I've only been growing a couple years, so I am up to a slightly modified KISS method personally ;) and don't know enough yet to give tons of advice and still feel good about it :rofl: . As you have to learn how to read the plant, as so many variables like all strains are/can be different, and then all your environmental conditions are not the exactly the same (even 30 miles from where you are sometimes let alone some other part of the Country or World), so not something you can totally learn in a book or by a feeding schedule on a bottle or by asking lots of questions IMHO (unless you have a Journeyman around that can teach you in person).

And like Dutchman said (except I "jumped in head first w/o looking for rocks" which is typical for me, and I just lucked out for once in my life and it wasn't a disaster/fatal ;):rofl: ) :

This is just my thoughts so I hope this doesn’t offend you! I researched for months and read endless journals of the experienced growers before I started my journey and it has payed off very well for me! Best of luck friend.
Click to expand...
 

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