Autoflower - 19 days old - Something is going on with her
- Thread starter kwingibingi
- Start date
Repot and look at the roots smell them If white or you can see white ones your good need to be patient if rust colored they are dying if they smell at all is very hard to save I have shaken as much media off as I can get then mist what is left with ro or distilled water a 5.9 to 6.0 and replant in moist soil in your case I would have do that when I seen the leaves they are a nutrient problem but it's the plant is eating them to survive. and grandma says the problem is pointed out by leaves and in your case is down
- Thread starter
- #123
kwingibingi
New Member
Emilya, it's just lighter.
what's further steps should I take to correct that problem???
Flexy, i have no idea what is my water ph... i just have soil ph meter
what's further steps should I take to correct that problem???
Flexy, i have no idea what is my water ph... i just have soil ph meter
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
we are making huge progress now Kwingibingi! Now we know for sure that you have been over watering all along. Sadly with an auto already determined to be in flower, there is not a lot that can be done at this point to fix all the previous damage, but by following good watering practices you should be able to get her to some kind of harvest, but keep this up and I am afraid she won't make it that long. You did exactly the right thing waiting so long to water last time, and now repeat that with this last watering. Each time you water, saturate the soil to the point of runoff, and wait for however long it takes to dry out that container... not to just lighter... but to light as a feather. You will know when you are getting some viable roots back when instead of 5 or 6 days, this shortens to 4 or even 3 days, and for your harvest's sake, I hope that this happens rapidly.You also need to find a way to measure your water pH. Clearly the Plant Magic people were wrong, just look at your plant. Wal*Mart or any aquarium shop will have test strips and pool supply stores have drops. If you want to really be accurate, invest in a digital pH pen... I have one here that cost me about $50 and has lasted me for over 5 years. There are better ones out there too, but this is an invaluable tool for you in the garden, as you are quickly finding out. Using the cheap test strips or drops will work for now though, and will allow you to get your tap water into the range where your plants are able to get the nutrients they need. It's all in that soil waiting for you... the plant just can't get to it.
You can buy a meter or those ph "test strips", I have those strips. Knowing your water's ph would be...sort of important
There is also a chance that your water/utility supplier has this information on their website, like a more or less recent water analysis report for your area.
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- #126
kwingibingi
New Member
Ok so i will get some meter today. I live in EU so we have different brands here. Please let me know how should I adjust my PH tho.
As Emilya said, assuming you have alkaline(aka "hard") water, say ph7 or higher AND YOU DON'T GIVE NUTES you need to get the ph down to something like 6.5ph, make it more "acidy". Vinegar and Lime juice is "ok" temporarily if you don't have anything, but better is you get a bottle of "ph down", which is basically an acid. (You can get this in any grow shop). You give like a tiny amount 1ml or so per L and see how much you need to add to get ph down to 6.5ph.
IF YOU GIVE NUTES it's important to measure ph of your fluids after you added nutes. Some nutes, especially "organic ones" are already decreasing the ph of the water and make it "soft". Depends what type you nutes you use etc.
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- #128
kwingibingi
New Member
Ppm free chlorine 0.5
PH 7.2
total alkalinity 180
test strip picture W8_20151125180112
ph levels are 6.2-6.8-7.2-7.8-8.4 my tap water is 7.2 but that orange color is kind of closer to 7.8ph than 6.8 which means it might be more than 7.2.
please let me know when to water my plant, how much water should I add and how much lemon juice or vinegear.
PH 7.2
total alkalinity 180
test strip picture W8_20151125180112
ph levels are 6.2-6.8-7.2-7.8-8.4 my tap water is 7.2 but that orange color is kind of closer to 7.8ph than 6.8 which means it might be more than 7.2.
please let me know when to water my plant, how much water should I add and how much lemon juice or vinegear.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
you should water when your container is light as a feather... ie, no water weight at all
you should use as much water as your soil will hold, and any additional water runs off out of the bottom
you should add however much vinegar or lemon juice it takes to adjust your water's pH down to 6.5
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- #130
kwingibingi
New Member
Hmm I'm afraid I have no time to wait but I KNOW I DONT WANT TO OVERWATER- I LEARN MY LESSON
ok so you mean like generous amount of water. Water should cover whole volume of my pot and run off.
ok so you mean like generous amount of water. Water should cover whole volume of my pot and run off.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Hmm I'm afraid I have no time to wait but I KNOW I DONT WANT TO OVERWATER- I LEARN MY LESSON
ok so you mean like generous amount of water. Water should cover whole volume of my pot and run off.
not sure we are describing the same thing. Slowly water from the top. Pour maybe one cup worth of pH adjusted water in. Wait a few minutes. Smoke a bowl. Eat a cookie. Come back and slowly add one more cup of water to the top and watch it soak in. Wait a few more minutes. Smoke another bowl. Come back again and slowly add even more water... see just how much water you can get that soil to soak up. When the soil is full, like a sponge, it will begin to flow out of the bottom. This is run off. Now your soil is properly watered. Overwatering is not using too much water at a time... it is impossible to force soil to hold onto too much water. Overwatering is doing this too often, and not giving the plant a chance to use all of the water in the container each time, before you water again.
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- #132
kwingibingi
New Member
That was a great descriptipn ok so right now I have to think about watering today with adjusted ph or wait one more day. That adjusted water will help definitely but I am afraid a bit, well I will water tomorrow morning, so it ll be one week since last watering. I will prepare water today for tomorrow. My hands are tight to be honest with you. Ok water PH 6.5 for tomorrow i will post some pictures in couple of hours.
thank you guys, especially Emilya for checking for my plant
ok so right now I have to think about watering today with adjusted ph or wait one more day. That adjusted water will help definitely but I am afraid a bit, well I will water tomorrow morning, so it ll be one week since last watering. I will prepare water today for tomorrow. My hands are tight to be honest with you. Ok water PH 6.5 for tomorrow i will post some pictures in couple of hours. thank you guys, especially Emilya for checking for my plant
sonicDlf
New Member
Your plant is starving because of to main things , over watered , wrong PH .
So if I was you I would water now to correct the PH so your plant can begin to take up the nutes it needs to mend .
If you have a pot the same as the one the plant is in , fill it with dry or very slightly damp soil and use it to compare , this will make it easy for you .
Be safe .
So if I was you I would water now to correct the PH so your plant can begin to take up the nutes it needs to mend .
If you have a pot the same as the one the plant is in , fill it with dry or very slightly damp soil and use it to compare , this will make it easy for you .
Be safe .
Also....don't water it THAT much that lots of run-off come out (somehow I have that impression), you water until you see the first sign of some runoff. AND YES RUNOFF IS WHAT COMES OF THE HOLES AT THE BOTTOM. (A good rough "rule" is 1L water for 1gal of soil to saturate a pot entirely.) And you do it slowly like Emilyia said because sometimes soil can be dry, it needs to soak otherwise it just runs down the sides. (Soil mixes with peat etc. can literally reject water when they're very dry, so you have to take your time until the entire soil is saturated...water some...take a break...water some more...another short break etc...have it soak it up. Gradually, patiently...and stop watering when you see the first stuff coming out at the bottom)
>>
so it ll be one week since last watering.
>>
It doesn't matter, your plant doesn't care about how many days or weeks even. The best actually would be to water when it's just starting to wilt from being dry Rather than counting days, check/lift your pots like explained and watch your plant.
so it ll be one week since last watering.
>>
It doesn't matter, your plant doesn't care about how many days or weeks even. The best actually would be to water when it's just starting to wilt from being dry
Rather than counting days, check/lift your pots like explained and watch your plant.- Thread starter
- #136
kwingibingi
New Member
Quick update.
I watered my plant with more acidic water, aproximatelly 6,5ph.
I think it does take time to see some recovery since it couldn't take nutrients because of alkaline water for long time...
Something is worth mentioning - my plant smells like msrijuana snd this big bud grows as well as other small ones.
If you guys have some suggestion, go ahead and let me knew.
as always thank you for checking for my plant!!
I watered my plant with more acidic water, aproximatelly 6,5ph.
I think it does take time to see some recovery since it couldn't take nutrients because of alkaline water for long time...
Something is worth mentioning - my plant smells like msrijuana snd this big bud grows as well as other small ones.
If you guys have some suggestion, go ahead and let me knew.
as always thank you for checking for my plant!!
- Thread starter
- #137
kwingibingi
New Member
So there are some small green 'leafs' coming out from the botton part of my plant. I put word leafs in a quotation marks because it's still too small to determine what is that, but I'm assuming those will be leafs if they make it before smallest harvest ever in the 420magazine history
i think it's good news knowing my N deficiency problems etc
i think it's good news knowing my N deficiency problems etc
You mean leaves on the stem? This should be normal, pics would help tho.
Well, this can be the drawback with autoflowers, they stop growing and start flowering at a specific time regardless of whatever. So if you had any problems during growing and they grew slower, then the plant will just finish very tiny, like the mini plant I had when I started growing which started flowering with a tiny bud, the entire plant only an inch tall or so (Besides that Autoflowers are usually always a little smaller than feminized, also because the time span they grow/veg is limited)
Currently I am also testing a new batch of Autoflowers, not sure how it will go since it currently gets very chilly at night, so not optimal for growing. I think Autoflowers are best when you know that everything is perfect so the (short) time they grow is used optimally with the best/fastest growth. If that one of yours wouldn't turn out optimal, maybe try feminized (non autos) next time? You can just let them grow (veg) as long as you want to...and then decide yourself when you want them to go into flowering. (The difference is just that you switch your light to 12/12 when you want them flower and at night it must be very dark). We usually have them start flowering when they reach 45cm.
This helps when you have any problems because you can just take your time until the plant recovers, an auto would just start flowering and you don't have control over that.
Well, this can be the drawback with autoflowers, they stop growing and start flowering at a specific time regardless of whatever. So if you had any problems during growing and they grew slower, then the plant will just finish very tiny, like the mini plant I had when I started growing which started flowering with a tiny bud, the entire plant only an inch tall or so
(Besides that Autoflowers are usually always a little smaller than feminized, also because the time span they grow/veg is limited)Currently I am also testing a new batch of Autoflowers, not sure how it will go since it currently gets very chilly at night, so not optimal for growing. I think Autoflowers are best when you know that everything is perfect so the (short) time they grow is used optimally with the best/fastest growth. If that one of yours wouldn't turn out optimal, maybe try feminized (non autos) next time? You can just let them grow (veg) as long as you want to...and then decide yourself when you want them to go into flowering. (The difference is just that you switch your light to 12/12 when you want them flower and at night it must be very dark). We usually have them start flowering when they reach 45cm.
This helps when you have any problems because you can just take your time until the plant recovers, an auto would just start flowering and you don't have control over that.
- Thread starter
- #139
kwingibingi
New Member
Yes, I will get some femi seed next time, no autos. But I don't say NO to autos, they quite interesting. Im just getting my exp with cannabis. I already learned so much about watering, lights, symtoms. Every next grow will be better and better.
sonicDlf
New Member
You got it , learn ,learn then learn some more , then one day you will wonder what all the fuss was about lol
Be safe .
Be safe .
