Autoflower - 19 days old - Something is going on with her

hermit186 said:
Don't wait repot now as soon as you can. Be careful about potting soil several have time release balls in it and that is crap caused problems in the leaves. Your plant has N problems PH could cause this wrong nutrients can cause. Replant in a pot 1/3 to 1/2 bigger then get some RO water ph to 5.8 to 6.1 water once till there is a 25% run off leave alone. For at least 2 days then when the dirt dyes so dry it might wilt.( You need to learn this point in your plants and water just before that point)do it again ph 6.0 to 6.3 let dry out again check the ph of the water coming out of the bottom the third time ph 6.3 to 6.5 you dry and flush you will see an effect. the exit ph will tell what is happening. Your lights are not good for plant pointed down spread out a little and they need to have the long axes horizontal to plant. Your pointing the wrong part on the plant and you have spot coverage. You need a more defused angle. don't reuse the drained water. I grow in COCO so I don't know what the reading should be in dirt but in theory it should go up as it passes thru . NEXT time get some dirt for weed and the nutrients for same water 2 or 3 times a week as need and don't water from bottom in dirt also get spray bottle with RO phed water and spray daily lightly don't drench just mist the ladies love it . If you noticed how many times I said PH it's very important .
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thx. I rearrange my lights a bit so they are more horizontal. I have seem growboxes online with light ponted down tho...

EMILYA, what do you think about hermit's post? I don't have any filtered water. Just tap one or boiled or bottle one from the store. There is no fluoride in European tap water fyi
 
As I see it the plant is pre-flowering so it's likely not growing larger any more. Why should he repot? Just wondering. Since it's an auto this is probably the final size already.

* In reply to Emilya: Yes you are right of course re: ph, maybe I sounded too general there. Of course it will always depend on someone's circumstances, soil, water, nutes etc. Just seems that in my case the nutes bring down the water to about 6.5ish (from high 8-9) last time I measured so this is just the right range. No question that things can look different for someone else.
 
kwingibingi said:
thx. I rearrange my lights a bit so they are more horizontal. I have seem growboxes online with light ponted down tho...

EMILYA, what do you think about hermit's post? I don't have any filtered water. Just tap one or boiled or bottle one from the store. There is no fluoride in European tap water fyi
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well, I dont agree with a large part of it. Sorry Hermit. It is hard for a hydro grower to give advice to a soil farmer. First of all, we don't grow in dirt... we grow in soil. Dirt is what you find outside, soil is carefully blended to have certain properties beneficial to growing.

RO water or distilled or even filtered water might be really good to use in hydroponics, but it is not needed in soil. Your plants actually like the minerals (especially the magnesium and calcium) in your water, and in soil there is no worry of ppm density. I use nothing but tap water on all of my plants, and I don't even worry about the chlorine, which actually in trace amounts is one of the 17 elements that a plant needs to grow.

Second, he is right about pH being important, but lets get in the proper range of 6.3-6.8 for soil and just measure the fluids going in... pay no attention to runoff... just make sure to adjust all the incoming fluids and the soil will follow.

Regarding repotting now... totally against everything that I believe in. Successively uppot several times during veg and you will not only be able to water properly, but a root ball will develop, and you will not need to use nutrients until beginning of flower because every time the soil starts to give out, you will be putting fresh soil in around them.

Sadly, I also do not believe in misting the plants either... 1. the roots are on the other end of the plant, leaves are for light, roots are for water. 2. misting can cause burning when each water droplet acts like a magnifying glass on the top of your leaves 3. Misting causes you to have to clean your lights more often 4. Misting can bring in contaminants 5. Misting can cause mold and mildew to develop
 
I use nothing but tap water on all of my plants, and I don't even worry about the chlorine, which actually in trace amounts is one of the 17 elements that a plant needs to grow.
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I also use tap water but usually let it sit for 24hrs, not sure whether this has any benefit.
While bottled water is insanely cheap here (€0.17 for a liter) it would still be an hassle and not sure whether it's worth it.

BUT...I noticed that I can water "better" with bottled water, especially with some peat/special potting mixes which are a total pain to water with my hard water especially when the mix is dry. (If you know what I am talking about). The bottled water is softer and the soil soaks the water up a lot faster than tap water.

Also..I noticed that my tap water is so hard that my insecticidal soap is flaking and not making an emulsion, but works great with bottled water. Maybe this answers why I sprayed multiple times when I had bugs and the results were rather "meh", this is when I used tap water for spraying...
 
I will update with my latest seed which had shell on it. I helped it to get rid of that. It was my 2nd seed with helmet on it. Last one died.

I have my last seed. I planted it couple minutes ago. I used good quality soil mixed with perlite and I sprouted it with water. I planted seed. Now please guide me how should I moisten it? It will be under 18/6 light schedule same as my already flowering plant.

all the time I read that germinated seeds should be in damp environment but as a beginner I don't want to over damp it.
do I have to moisten it tomorrow or leave it?
 
pH high or low usually does not cause burns... burns come from lights too close, water droplets sitting on young leaves or very hot soil.
send a picture of this damage please.
 
most definitely something is off. I had to read back over the history of this plant to try to get an idea what is happening here. The plant actually looked a lot healthier a week ago and has not grown much since. Everything that I see says that flexy is right, and that all of this time you have consistently been watering too often. I believe that your root system is a mess, and is barely robust enough to keep this plant alive and that we really need to convince you not to water so often. Without a solid root system under her, of course there are going to be macronutrient deficiencies.
The problem I have with this diagnosis is that we have been talking to you about these things during this time, and assumed that you had been correcting your earlier mistakes. As the original problems have only gotten worse, I have to assume that there is still confusion as to how to water this plant and I have to ask again, are you sure you are letting your plants dry out completely, all the way to the bottom, between waterings?
Lastly, you talk about your nutes and their ability to bring your water's pH down to 6.5 ish. What you have not talked about is how you adjust your 8.5 water down to 6.5 in order to give plain water between nutes. Surely you are not giving nutes every time?? This would definitely account for the burning that is accompanying your other symptoms. Most every nute line I have ever seen recommends not giving them every time.
 
I don't water her as much as I did before. I did that last thursday morning. There was some run off from the bottom.
no fertilizers were given. When watering I use tap water. Don't know what to do really :/ she got burns and looks like deficiency
 
kwingibingi said:
I don't water her as much as I did before. I did that last thursday morning. There was some run off from the bottom.
no fertilizers were given. When watering I use tap water. Don't know what to do really :/ she got burns and looks like deficiency
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just trying to understand, so please don't think that I am yelling at you... just trying to help.

Are you saying that normally you do not water so much as to get runoff at the bottom? How often are you giving her a little bit of water, even misting? And by tap water, I am assuming that you mean water not adjusted to pH? Do you normally add something to that water, except of course last thursday? And thursday morning was 5 days ago... that seems like a long time. Did she wilt when you did this... and how did you know that she needed water?
 
I give her water only when the soil is really dry outside and couple centimeters inside. I also lift the pot to check the weight.

I don't mist it anymore, I learn my lesson
While watering I make sure there is run off, so I hold my pot over the sink so the water just run off
I have never used any ph corrector to my water. No nutes were given.

my soil might have some nutrients inside which is really common.
no time releasing nutes in any of my soils, just regular nutes
she didn't wilt after adding water last thursday morning
 
She looks like she is starving to me , caused by damaged roots , which was caused by over watering .
She also has signs of nute burn , which is odd with how often you are feeding , what strength are you giving ?
And you really need to PH adjust your tap water When watering with no nutes .
Be safe .
 
Its probably to late but use eye dropper and keep the helmet moist for a day or two then if doesn't fall off try very careful if your fingers touch that new leaf the oils will cause it to deform, and go straight to roots. How did this happen you soaked in water and then paper toweled them. Then you planted in media. Not deep enough the cap comes off in the media if ideally planted. If you planted directly in dirt not deep enough.

No one in the industry will ever agree with this but the paper towel is crap. Every time you mess with that seed is bad it's a plant with a tap root and it knows up and down it cracks (pops) and you check it, it grows about an inch, you check it looks right you plant it. At this point you have confused it at least 3 times which way is up or down. Now if you look at your old plants roots cut in half if tap root is not straight down you will have problems for sure. may just small ones but it will happen.

Place it in old thermos at 68 to 74 degrees the old thermos will keep them constant and when I say dark I mean no light. 3days open plant all that have popped or started roots. Careful with tweezers place over a 1/4 into media if root formed it goes down if no root point down. You will have up set the up down once when you check the roots after is cut the tap root will have one little turn in the tap root. If it has a bunch of turns it spent the first 10 days not sure which way is up. In nature they fall to the ground and sprout and grow that is the first little kink in the tap root. Sounds strange the high dollar nutrients force the plant to do what they are made to do. Forcing anything plant or person has its effects. Don't handle don't move after putting in H20 distilled is best PH adjusted down to 6.5. I use a short soup thermo can see right in and when they are ready bring out and plant. If you do this very much you will see the difference they will be ready for bloom light change in a week less time.

The reason I got into this is when Fem seeds got here is like the nine lives of a cat every lost life makes it harder to recover why is that important Fem seeds with week gens will go hermie at life number 5 or 6. Then some of the lower limbs will get a few male sacks you don't see you weed will have seed and be not so wonderful. Auto flower are a hermie plant mated with a normal plant. Confused from before it is sprouted. I have 5 mothers all regular seeds and that was a job trust me but I renew them every year taller easier to grow less problems and not a hermie. Can't wait there next Frankenstein plant they create will be a Transgender which will do it all in one.
 
Lol so she is starving but at the same time there are burns, what the heck.how should I correct that. Don't think she is overwatered tho.

adjusting water ph, how?
 
My guess is that the soil was still not totally dry, down 2 cm really doesn't mean a thing if the rest of the soil is still moist. (Stick a small wooden stick in there, leave it in for a minute and then pull out is a good simple way to check whether it's still moist 'inside'). From what I heard, once you had an over-watering problem it can take a while for the plant to recover, several phases of drying out and watering required.

Ok I saw the picture of the potting mix you use, doesn't seem to have time release nutes in it. But the somewhat low ph makes me suspicious. Did you ever measure your water's ph?

The other question is whether WHEN you water you might possibly water too much (too much runoff?) and flush out nutrients, seeing that the pot seems rather small (looking at the pics). Just guessing here.
 
kwingibingi said:
Lol so she is starving but at the same time there are burns, what the heck.how should I correct that. Don't think she is overwatered tho.

adjusting water ph, how?
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vinegar makes an acceptable ph down... lemon juice...

When you lift your container, does it feel feather light, or just lighter? Does it feel so light you wonder to yourself how the plant could possibly be alive in there, or do you feel just a little water weight? All signs point to you misjudging this point.
 

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