Autoflower - 19 days old - Something is going on with her

Emilyia,

writing this question here instead of PMing you.

Somewhere (either here or in some other thread) you mentioned the "myth about not repotting Autos".

I got a bunch of seeds today but I am not sure whether those where I wanted autos (Ak47, Critical, Amnesia) ARE in fact autos. (I think the vendor messed something up). It could be feminized seeds but not necessarily Autos.

If I knew for sure they're autos I'd just put them in their final pots, but now since I am not sure I don't know 100% what to do.
My plan is now to just grow them as usual, starting with my normal tiny pots and then after some weeks up-pot them.

Looking at your comment you made about repotting autos, can I assume that you think it's really just a myth that you shouldn't repot them? (I myself could not see one reason why not).
 
Emilyia,

writing this question here instead of PMing you.

Somewhere (either here or in some other thread) you mentioned the "myth about not repotting Autos".

I got a bunch of seeds today but I am not sure whether those where I wanted autos (Ak47, Critical, Amnesia) ARE in fact autos. (I think the vendor messed something up). It could be feminized seeds but not necessarily Autos.

If I knew for sure they're autos I'd just put them in their final pots, but now since I am not sure I don't know 100% what to do.
My plan is now to just grow them as usual, starting with my normal tiny pots and then after some weeks up-pot them.

Looking at your comment you made about repotting autos, can I assume that you think it's really just a myth that you shouldn't repot them? (I myself could not see one reason why not).

yes, I do believe that it is a myth about the autos, along with the myths that they grow best in 24/0, should not be topped and all the others. It is my belief (and note that I said "belief" because honestly, I have never grown a ruderalis hybrid) that these are just plants, and being such, the good rules of gardening still apply.

there is a good thread on here, a grow log, that is exploring these myths... it is a good read... you should do a search for it... something about breaking the myths.

If I were to grow an auto, first I would top it early and I would be successively up-potting it. I could never see the sense of putting a small plant in a container way too big for it... and I would never do it, even to a autoflower.
 
yes, I do believe that it is a myth about the autos, along with the myths that they grow best in 24/0, should not be topped and all the others. It is my belief (and note that I said "belief" because honestly, I have never grown a ruderalis hybrid) that these are just plants, and being such, the good rules of gardening still apply.

there is a good thread on here, a grow log, that is exploring these myths... it is a good read... you should do a search for it... something about breaking the myths.

If I were to grow an auto, first I would top it early and I would be successively up-potting it. I could never see the sense of putting a small plant in a container way too big for it... and I would never do it, even to a autoflower.

I do not understand why anyone would want to re pot when you can start in the pot you would finish in , unless space is an issue .
It is not that you shouldn't , it is just because autos have a predetermined life span why would you wish to stunt their growth by even one day by re potting .
A regards topping , i micro top all my autos at the 5th node and have never seen any slowing in growth , I have found toe nail clippers to work best , sterilized first .
Oh and all my plants run 24/0 , this may change to 20/4 , not sure just yet .
Be safe .
 
I do not understand why anyone would want to re pot when you can start in the pot you would finish in , unless space is an issue .
It is not that you shouldn't , it is just because autos have a predetermined life span why would you wish to stunt their growth by even one day by re potting .
A regards topping , i micro top all my autos at the 5th node and have never seen any slowing in growth , I have found toe nail clippers to work best , sterilized first .
Oh and all my plants run 24/0 , this may change to 20/4 , not sure just yet .
Be safe .

In my experience, up-potting actually helps the plant grow faster/better. When done correctly, the shock or interruption is either minimal or virtually non-existent. A lot of growers focus on how big the plant grows above ground when young and ignore what's really important - how things are doing below the surface. A massive, healthy root ball is what the plant needs (and we want) when the plant is getting started. Up-potting accomplishes this better than dropping a seed in a 5-10 gallon pot.
 
I tend to think that repotting is also "better" (not that I am the expert there) but simply because I never really observed halted growth after repotting. (Or at least not that I noticed). One could also think that the disadvantage them from being in a "too big pot" and the (possible) advantage of not repotting would ultimately balance each other out... or differently: Why with a "too large pot" the plant would waste time with roots, with repotting it would then (possibly) stunt growth....so no method is at the end really "better"? Just my guess.

Major Pita, just note this is specific for Autos, with feminized etc. there is no question that you repot. (I haven't seen anyone starting in 5gal containers really :) )
 
Major Pita, just note this is specific for Autos, with feminized etc. there is no question that you repot. (I haven't seen anyone starting in 5gal containers really :) )

Right - I get we are talking about autos. I don't do autos but I've seen other members grow them - some with up-potting, most w/o. I've not see any evidence that correct up-potting causes a problem for autos. I HAVE seen seeds dropped in 5 & 7 gal pots. Usually a newbie will wonder what their plant isn't growing very fast. The answer is, your plant is growing fast. You just can't see it 'cuz most of it is happening below the surface.
 
I think the myth comes from how rapidly the autos go into flower. Once that 2 week stretch and switch to flower starts to happen, you have basically that 2 weeks to get her into her final digs, or its over as far as developing a bigger rootball. Everything with autos has to be accelerated, from the toppings to of course the up-potting. I rarely see stress from my up-pottings either, I just make a hole the size of the last container and plop her in it...

But, I am of the firm belief that a plant is a plant is a plant... and the rules don't change just because of a growth system on hyperdrive. As fast as an auto is, you still have the ability to move a lot faster than her... Just realize that everything is accelerated, and so must be your up-pottings, training and final placement in a bloom container.
 
So autos will potentially be smaller than other? How long it might take to go into flower and what about light schedule? For now she under 7 cfls 18/6
 
It probably depends on strain, but generally and often, yes autos are smaller. The advantage of non-autos is of course also that you can basically veg them as long as you want. Our feminized (non auto) ones, we usually put them up for flowering when they reach 45cm height or something, but I mean you could veg them much longer...or shorter. You have a lot more flexibility with NON autos.

The autos simply switch to flowering at a certain time no matter what.....and this CAN be a problem like with what happened to us this past summer. We had a whole bunch of autos planted in scorching heat (and we've also been very new so we made mistakes with watering and many more mistakes)...so the plants literally didn't grow because of the heat and other reasons, they kept at barely an inch for like 5 weeks!!! Now imagine a tiny plant like this starting to flower....because that's exactly what they did :)

As for light schedule for autos..I would keep them at 18/6 as well. I mean because they're autos they will flower no matter your light schedule. (Once they started flowering I BELIEVE you could also switch your lights to 12/12). I am also a strong believer that 24hr light schedule is nonsense and that the plants need some "off-time" at night.

Most autos I see start to flower after two to three weeks.
 
3 more days and she will be exactly 30 days old.
I know I won't get much yield but I wasn't aiming for it, she will reward me with something and it'll be enough to wait for next plant which I will start soon ( I'll put it in some new forum subject)

Emilya, why should I up pot her? What benefits will I get because of that?
 
Emilya, why should I up pot her? What benefits will I get because of that?

she could still get a bit bigger... she is limited by her roots. if you did as Flexy suggests and just lifted her up and put some fresh soil underneath her in that same pot, that would help too. But the next day or two is the last chance you are going to get to do this, and then she is going to start concentrating everything her little roots have on producing some buds for you.
 
I wasn't sure how much to put + t was important transplant and was in hurry. that soil was a bit fluffier at the beginning.

Emilya, I'm not sure if it's worth a shoot, it might be too risky for her. Have you ever had small plant like mine, have anyone? she still grows a bit, it's not over. I can add some soil on the top but not sure if it will change anything.
 
she is looking better , I agree with Emilya i would up pot or if that is not an option just take her out off the pot she is in and put some more soil in the bottom to raise her to 1cm off the top of the pot , put some around the edge , job done .
The reason i would do this is she will now start to stretch , before she fills out .
Be safe .
 
W8_20151111212530 - 420 Magazine Photo Gallery ok this is how it looks like.

after flipping pot inside out some soil just dropped. The root system took over, it was full of roots. At some point I had to touch them in order to put it safely on the cardboard. Some small roots tore away from the soil but it shouldn't be a problem it wasn't anything big. Couple questions.

1. No watering of course?
2. Will she get some shock because of that?
 
W8_20151111212530 - 420 Magazine Photo Gallery ok this is how it looks like.

after flipping pot inside out some soil just dropped. The root system took over, it was full of roots. At some point I had to touch them in order to put it safely on the cardboard. Some small roots tore away from the soil but it shouldn't be a problem it wasn't anything big. Couple questions.

1. No watering of course?
2. Will she get some shock because of that?

If she was soaking wet, no water... but the general rule is when you transplant, you do a complete soaking to merge the two soil regions together. I would err this time on the wet side, and water as soon as you feel it is prudent, showing her where the new soil is. Also consider that the new dry soil is going to leech some of that moisture from the old rootball, so dry enough to water is going to occur faster now that you have done this.

Pretty impressive how fast she grew all those roots isnt it? This is because you have been watering correctly, and those roots are the result of chasing after the water, instead of being drowned in it. :)
 
>>
and just lifted her up and put some fresh soil underneath her in that same pot
>>

brilliant!! I mean you don't even need to take it out, just try whether you can carefully lift the plant with the soil/root ball and then fill some more soil in from the side? That sounds like a good idea to me.

In regards to putting soil in pots in general, yes some soil can be very fluffy and sink in later, this is why I always slightly push the soil down when I fill a pot fresh. And I usually fill pots maybe 1/2 or 1/4th inch below the rim.
 
Back
Top Bottom