Brown & white spots & curled crispy leaves

[Whippedcream79]

You need to spray it to get in as many nooks and crannies as you can. The bugs are really small and you'd need a loop to see them so there is no chance you could cover your plant effectively by wiping it on. And do the whole plant, flowers and undersides of the leaves too.  And the top of the soil.

Got it!
Will spray everything and hope for the best

 

[Whippedcream79]

Checking the dryness of the soil by lifting the pot and the finger poke are both popular methods. The pot lifting technique is considered more accurate.

But checking the dryness before watering is not all there is to setting up the schedule. The fertilizing part has to be included and I get the feeling that you have been missing that. The schedule has to be more than just figuring out how many days between watering. It has to include when the fertilizing will take place and that usually means every other watering.

A typical schedule for plants that are beyond their seedling stager will look something like this---water, water & fertilizer, water, water & fertilizer, water...or for some growers it might look like this---water, water, water & fertilizer, water, water, water & fertilizer, water, water. When the schedule starts to involve having more than two watering sessions in a row without a water & fertilizer session is when small deficiency problems often start to show up.


Your comment about doing a water with fertilizer and then when the leaves did not look better after 2 weeks you did not do it again is what caught my attention. That is pretty much the same as giving the plant 1/3 of the recommended amounts of fertilizer. What would have been better would be to give it the fertilizer and then again sometime the next week and then again a week later, etc.

The water only part of the schedule is up to the soil and the plant. The part when the water includes the fertilizer is up to your observations of what is happening with the plant and the recommendations from the company that put the fertilizer on the market.

At first is sounds complicated and almost impossible to figure out. But, it falls into place before long.

Thank you Smokingwings for your guidance
I agree that the watering schedule in my head is based on dryness of the soil. I knew it wasn’t that simple ! Looking back when I didn’t give any nutes to her after seeing something that’s not right was definitely a wrong move!
Will pay extra attention on the water feeling schedule In future

 

[Azimuth]

Got it!
Will spray everything and hope for the best

And, it's not a one and done thing. First, you are unlikely to make effective contact with every bug. Second, some bugs lay their eggs inside the plant where they would be protected from the spray. Third, some bugs are sexually mature in three to four days, so if you don't keep at it to break the cycle they'll keep coming back.

So, generally spray every three days for a couple of weeks and then, if there are no more signs, once a week as a preventative.

 

[SmokingWings]

So, generally spray every three days for a couple of weeks and then, if there are no more signs, once a week as a preventative.

It is a chore that has to be done or they are always a terrible nuisance. Several years ago when I was looking up how to control many insects the recommendation I kept reading was was to spray every day for three days and then go to every 3 days for awhile which is a couple of weeks and then it should be safe to spray once a week and feel that they will not come back.

 

[Azimuth]

The every day for three days is probably to eliminate any mature or near mature bugs you missed the previous day so they don't lay new eggs. That way you're mostly only dealing with the new hatchling. That approach makes good sense.

 

[Whippedcream79]

And, it's not a one and done thing. First, you are unlikely to make effective contact with every bug. Second, some bugs lay their eggs inside the plant where they would be protected from the spray. Third, some bugs are sexually mature in three to four days, so if you don't keep at it to break the cycle they'll keep coming back.

So, generally spray every three days for a couple of weeks and then, if there are no more signs, once a week as a preventative.

Hi Azimuth, will do a spraying routine once I can confirm pest issues . Still waiting for the soap and a loupe to arrive. Here’s some more photos from last night :

 

[Whippedcream79]

It is a chore that has to be done or they are always a terrible nuisance. Several years ago when I was looking up how to control many insects the recommendation I kept reading was was to spray every day for three days and then go to every 3 days for awhile which is a couple of weeks and then it should be safe to spray once a week and feel that they will not come back.

Thanks for the tip.
I’ve got so much going on for my first grow!

 

[Azimuth]

Thanks for the tip.
I’ve got so much going on for my first grow!

Yeah, these are the basics in many grows so you're getting some good experience and knowledge that you can apply going forward. This is a weed so anyone can grow it, but not everyone can grow it well because of some of the challenges that seem to look for this plant.

But, once you get the basics of grow mix, watering, nutes, and pest and nutrient deficiency control handled you're on your way to a lifetime addiction to growing the damn things.

 

[bluter]

those photos have enough magnification to find most pests. if you are looking for them pay particular attention to the undersides of the leaves.

 

[ReservoirDog]

Bluter, Azi, anyone, without expressly diagnosing but as an exercise, do you have any inclinations as to which pest we could be looking at...

 

[ReservoirDog]

Hi Azimuth, will do a spraying routine once I can confirm pest issues . Still waiting for the soap and a loupe to arrive. Here’s some more photos from last night :

What`s in the bottles, are you fixin co2 in there...

 

[Phytoplankton]

Hi Azimuth, will do a spraying routine once I can confirm pest issues . Still waiting for the soap and a loupe to arrive. Here’s some more photos from last night :

Honestly, what I see doesn't look like mite damage (maybe thrips?), though a picture of the underside of a couple of the affected leaves would be more diagnostic. What I see is the early stages of a deficiency, lock out, or PH issue.

If you can eliminate bugs as a culprit, and get your PH under control (6.2) and it doesn't get better (or no worse) within a week to10 days, then I might suggest doing a 3x pot volume flush with regular tap water, re-set the soil, and resume the manufacturers recommended amount of nutes for the stage your plant is in (I'm assuming your using synthetic not organic nutes). Even after you get everything right, the brown/damaged leaves will not get better, but shouldn't get much worse. The new growth should be fine.

 

[Azimuth]

Honestly, what I see doesn't look like mite damage (maybe thrips?), though a picture of the underside of a couple of the affected leaves would be more diagnostic. What I see is the early stages of a deficiency, lock out, or PH issue.

If you can eliminate bugs as a culprit, and get your PH under control (6.2) and it doesn't get better (or no worse) within a week to10 days, then I might suggest doing a 3x pot volume flush with regular tap water, re-set the soil, and resume the manufacturers recommended amount of nutes for the stage your plant is in (I'm assuming your using synthetic not organic nutes). Even after you get everything right, the brown/damaged leaves will not get better, but shouldn't get much worse. The new growth should be fine.

Funny. I have  extensive experience with thrips and it doesn't look like them to me so I was going to guess mites.

But the second paragraph of Phyto's post is very much on point.

 

[Regrowth]

The half albino leaf with the curl looks variegated to me and look at the fan leaf behind it. (Your 2nd photo)
You might have some nutrient issues but as far as the yellowing goes I would blame the genetics first.

 

[Phytoplankton]

Funny. I have  extensive experience with thrips and it doesn't look like them to me so I was going to guess mites.

Talk about irony, I have no experience with thrips, but quite a bit with spider mites (The Borg!) and I didn't think it looked like mites, so I figured it might be thrips. Strange world!!!

I agree with @Regrowth, the yellow striping and curled leaves are probably genetic, but brown/yellow spotting indicates there's something else going on.

 

[Azimuth]

The half albino leaf with the curl looks variegated to me and look at the fan leaf behind it. (Your 2nd photo)
You might have some nutrient issues but as far as the yellowing goes I would blame the genetics first.

If it were genetics I would think many leaves would show the trait rather than just the one, no? I think nutrient issue but that could very easily be because pH is out of whack.

 

[Phytoplankton]

If it were genetics I would think many leaves would show the trait rather than just the one, no? I think nutrient issue but that could very easily be because pH is out of whack.

Variegation is a strange genetic anomaly, it can effect one leaf, the whole plant, or anything in between, and it also can appear/disappear at any time in the growth cycle. Like you, I totally believe it's probably a PH and/or nutrient issue.

 

[Regrowth]

I'm pretty confident about the variegation diagnosis. Maybe a magnesium deficiency too though.
The NL I grow gets a curled / variegated leaf every few months. I call it 'mustard leaf'. lol

In the OP's case it seems more extreme - with the half green / half yellow leaves.
It's basically partial albinism and messes up photosynthesis a bit.
And it wouldn't surprise me if it gets accompanied by other issues as well.
It's probably safe to rule out pH issues when growing in soil.

 

[bluter]

it's mites. i thought we'd already discussed it.

but yes you have mites and the signs are there. pretty certain.

same advice i prattled on about in another thread is relevant here : hang on as best you can and harvest early as possible. there's just no good way to battle them this late in flower.


the white spots are eggs.

not all of them, but enough.

the finnish guy has them as well. i keep getting the threads confused lol. if that leaf isn't crucial i'd pull it off and get a hard look at the back at same magnification as the pic. they mostly live on the back side. once you see one you'll never be able to unsee it.

not very good pic but ...

the dark dot on the left hand side is a common two-spotted mite. the lighter colored dot a bit higher on the right is an egg. there's a couple other eggs that are harder to see but are there.

this is the other side of the same leaf with the mite damage showing as white dots where the eggs hatched

this was on my plants a few grows ago. it's very early damage, and a good time to catch it if you can. it gets much worse quick.


the variegation of the leaves is a genetic thing. it can be bad enough that it challenges the health of the plant, as the lighter colour won't photosynthesize to support the plant. it rarely gets there though. i've seen be a total of 50% of the plant with the plant still doing ok.

 

[Azimuth]

Is the genetic abnormality triggered by stress factors like pH or nutrients issues? Like, if it's there in the background, will it come forward under stress?