Congrats on the seeds! Now you be ready to rock with an indoor grow. As far as germinating, I pefer the direct to soil, just so I don't have to transplant. This last batch, MDVL used rockwool cubes and had 4 out of 4 germinate. You should be fine with the number of lights. What is the kelvin rating on the bulbs ( I don't remember reading of any)? The ones you have will probably work just fine anyhow. Keep up the great work.
Chump's First
- Thread starter Ms. chump stain
- Start date
Congrats on the seeds! Now you be ready to rock with an indoor grow. As far as germinating, I pefer the direct to soil, just so I don't have to transplant. This last batch, MDVL used rockwool cubes and had 4 out of 4 germinate. You should be fine with the number of lights. What is the kelvin rating on the bulbs ( I don't remember reading of any)? The ones you have will probably work just fine anyhow. Keep up the great work.
I like direct to final pot too.
Why not avoid transplant shock, if possible?
Can't wait to see your next grow, ms. chump stain!
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- #283
Ms. chump stain
New Member
Thanks guys! I like the idea of just planting them in the pots they'll be in. I don't like all that transplanting stuff. So I think that's what I'll do. And, do you have to have the lights on right away? Or let them crack their shell in the dark, then turn on the lights?
Oh yeah, anyone know if there is an affordable PH gauge out there? I don't want to spend more then $10 or so.
Oh yeah, anyone know if there is an affordable PH gauge out there? I don't want to spend more then $10 or so.
Spike69
2nd Place Plant, and 3rd Place Member of the Month
way to go Ms. Chump some great looking buds there.
dfw-guy
New Member
Make sure to water before you plant, that way the seed doesn't get washed away. For less than $10 the only thing you can get are PH test strips. I think with the light you have you can expect around the same results as with my grow. The more light you can get, the bigger the buds.
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- #286
Ms. chump stain
New Member
I have room to add 4 more bulbs. I saw some 100w eq. CFLs that might be nice for supplemental lighting. I still have 3 of those reflective dish things (that came off of the fixtures) that I don't know what to do with.
I don't think it matters too much whether the lights are on or off until the seedling breaks ground except that you don't want your light/heat to dry the soil too fast because your seeds won't germinate without moisture.
Warm soil is good and will help seeds to germinate faster, so from that sense, lights on is good. CFL's won't dry your soil the same way HID lights do, so I would leave them on, but make sure your soil stays moist (not soggy though).
Try to avoid setting your pots directly on cement because that will draw the warmth out of the soil. You can insulate them from the cold floor with a piece of styrofoam or something like that.
Once they break ground, the sooner they get light the better. There is a very experienced grower in Amsterdam who goes by "cees" that believes that the first couple of hours after breaking ground can determine how well the plant will do, and that no light during those first couple of hours is not good.
have a green day sis!
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- #288
Ms. chump stain
New Member
I got a little creative with the labels. The Diesel label has a little smoke stack for the L 
I watered them, and they'll be ready to plant very soon. I'm using Miracle Grow Potting Mix. It says it already has plant food in it. So I'm going to lay off on the nutes right away. Once they're into veg, maybe I'll throw some blood meal in, and use the water from our little Beta gold fish bowl when we change it (about once a week).
I watered them, and they'll be ready to plant very soon. I'm using Miracle Grow Potting Mix. It says it already has plant food in it. So I'm going to lay off on the nutes right away. Once they're into veg, maybe I'll throw some blood meal in, and use the water from our little Beta gold fish bowl when we change it (about once a week).
Kolumboboi
New Member
Once you have been growin for about six weeks then you should put them into there flowering stage which is 12/12 light/darkness the with in about 2-3 weeks you will start lookin for banana type flowers and peach fuzz like knots bananas course males. Once u figure out sex then you figure out what to do with them
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- #290
Ms. chump stain
New Member
Yup. Except these are feminized seeds, so hopefully they'll just be female. My space isn't really that big, so I think I might try to veg for like 30 days, then go 12/12. What do you think?
Kolumboboi
New Member
Me myself I would get a smaller pot just for the simple fact if the roots have room to grow they will that means the plants have room to sprut durig flowering which they will.And also smaller the pot the better the seed will germ because they are keep at warm temp
dfw-guy
New Member
Love the labels, something creative is always nice. So get creative with the lighting, I don't think you'll be getting optimal results with how they're set up now. The more direct light the better, and with the built in reflectors you should try and have the lights pointing directly at the plants. I'm not sure what resources you have available to you, but with some simple hardware and wood you could easily make your own custom light bar (or fixture if you will). I drew this up real quick, just thinking of ideas 
Each white circle is a light of course.
I'd love to help you think of ideas. The construction factor is possibly my favorite part of growing
Edit: Oh now I see that your saying she could use small pots to keep the plants small because the plant would get root bound later in it's life. That's a good thought if she wanted small plants & equally small yields. What I would do instead is try some propagation techniques to keep them compact. Stuff like LST and SCROG keep the plant(s) compact yet don't actually limit how much they grow, so their budding potential is the same (or greater) than if you let them grow out naturally (and tall).
Each white circle is a light of course.
I'd love to help you think of ideas. The construction factor is possibly my favorite part of growing
I don't really see what you mean here. Can you explain?
Edit: Oh now I see that your saying she could use small pots to keep the plants small because the plant would get root bound later in it's life. That's a good thought if she wanted small plants & equally small yields. What I would do instead is try some propagation techniques to keep them compact. Stuff like LST and SCROG keep the plant(s) compact yet don't actually limit how much they grow, so their budding potential is the same (or greater) than if you let them grow out naturally (and tall).
Kolumboboi
New Member
Yeah that would be good to just comin up with ways for her to grow smaller plants bcuz she doesn't want big plant doesn't have space for them and some people don't feel comfortable with scrog just starting to grow I think soil will be good
Ms.Chump Stain. What are the kelvin ratings on those bulbs? If you can swing it, try to pick up a pack of 6500K bulbs, usually in the 100watt equivalent range, something like 23 watts actual. You need the whiter(blue spectrum) for vegging, and the 2700k soft light(red spectrum) for flowering. This will help to improve your plant groth and bud production. Walmart has them on sale all the time, usually in a 3 pack. just look on the package for the kelvin rating. If it says soft white, most likely it is 2700k, and the brighter white ones are usually 6500k. Peace sis, and keep rockin!!
dfw-guy
New Member
GMT is correct. The 6500k color spectrum encourages the growth of smaller inter node spacing (more bud sights), perfect for vegging. For vegging I've found that you don't need as much light as when you flower, so you don't have to replace every bulb. In my grow, I grew the plants out to about 6" tall (after continuous LST) in vegetation, and only used 1 30w (120w equiv) bulb over each plant. Also keep in mind that with CFL's you can, and should, keep the bulbs as close to the plants as possible. To find the right distance, you have to deal with the heat the bulb gives off & the ventilation you have. If you have ventilation that can keep the air moving around the plants & light, then I say you can get them as close as 1" away. In vegetation stage keeping the lights very close will most definitely help keep the plants short with small node spacing, but you must check on them at least every other day. At my plants peak growth period, they were growing about an inch a day. I have to say that using 6500k lights is not at all necessary for vegging, it's just recommended & everyone does it.
Kolumboboi
New Member
It just people try to get as close to the color of the sun rays in Oct&Nov that why they say 6500k bulb and hps be cuz there lights give off that orange red glow
DFW-Guy, exactly, I have noticed better veg growth under the 6500k, than under the 2700k. The red spectrum is much better for the flowering stages and bud growth. I usually try to mimic the sun by slowly replacing 6500k bulbs with 2700k bulbs over a 1 to 2 week period while adjusting light schedules at the same time. I think the smoother transitions take away a little of the stress when switching from veg to flower. Seems more natural to me. I wish could write a program for this and purchase the equipment to automate the grow using computer control. A-hah..the mad scientist in me is breakin out!!...lol.
Kolumboboi
New Member
My next grow I was thinking about using colored cfl's and see what I get from that
dfw-guy
New Member
I'd do some research finding the exact wavelength (nm) the colored CFL's put out and see how match up with the spectrum most effective for photosynthesis. Could be fun to experiment with.
Kolumboboi
New Member
Yeah no all colored lights just like one blue for flowering and like 2oranges and one red for flowering along with the reg for light requirement sounds very interesting next grow will do
