Doc Bud: All Organic OG Kush SCROG

[Doc Bud]

Well they look absolutely phenomenal! I don't pH either... I test my water's TA every so often...it's always right around 60, so I just use the water. But now that I'm using EWC Tea I'm getting kind of excited about going all organic. Just applied my second batch today. Maybe it was the meds, but I swear I could hear the girls thanking me... So far the only real drawback I see is that is is a lot more work than OC+! But I kind of like it, instead of tending to the garden now I'm tending to the microherd and they're tending to my garden!

Can't wait to see what you do next!

You got it bro!

**Becoming "master" of the garden happens when you become one with the garden. ** (Except for mites. We hate them.)


I feel very intune with my plants nowadays....I just kind of know what they're up to. You'll make great strides on all your grows now that the girls are talking to you. Spray that tea on the plants well into bloom! Especially get the underside of the lower leaves.

 

[onegramperwat]

Time to get shopping list together. This is going to be 5gallon smart pots. 8 of them. The strain is on the sativa side. Really never given correct name.

Have:

2 bags of Vermicrop
EWC
Plant Success granular mycos(are these good enough?)
molassis

Need:

limestone
rock phosphate
gypsum
azomite
bone and blood meal
guano low N
greensand
zeolite

Anything else Doc?

 

[Doc Bud]

Time to get shopping list together. This is going to be 5gallon smart pots. 8 of them. The strain is on the sativa side. Really never given correct name.

Have:

2 bags of Vermicrop
EWC
Plant Success granular mycos(are these good enough?)
molassis

Need:

limestone
rock phosphate
gypsum
azomite
bone and blood meal
guano low N
greensand
zeolite

Anything else Doc?

OK.....scratch the greensand. Too much potassium messes this method up.

When I mix up my High Brix soil, I'm going to try two things:

1.)add the rock powders to normal super soil. (i have doubts about this working......but we'll see.)

2.)Add the rock powders, EWC and Alfalfa meal to the soil......and that's it. (i suspect this method will work best)

Weekly soil drenches with microbial tea, foliar feeding, and occasional fertilization with organic matter from there....mainly hydrolyzed fish, from what I've been able to learn. You've got to be careful with compost and bat guano, because it can throw off the Ca/P ratio.

From what I've been able to learn, a good, fortified potting soil like FFOF in a large pot contains enough organic matter for one of our plants....provided the microherd is well fed and active.....AND the calcium/magnesium, Ca/P balance and Ca/K is correct. (7 to 1 on Ca/Mg.......18:1 on the P and K ratio)

Please understand that I'm a total newbie with the High Brix stuff.....I'm educating myself at a furious pace.....but I've yet to do a grow. I might fall flat on my face.....

 

[VapedOutJoe]

Doc, Awesome looking buds there! I bet that is a very happy smoke. Major reps

 

[SpiriTHC]

Amazing outcome Doc!

 

[OG13]

Hey Doc, where are you reading on High Brix? Is there a book you can recommend? I've read the "Teaming w/ Microbes" book. Or any websites?

 

[onegramperwat]

I bought gypsum, bone and blood meal, and rock phosphate. Can I scratch the blood and bone meal.?

 

[Doc Bud]

Hey Doc, where are you reading on High Brix? Is there a book you can recommend? I've read the "Teaming w/ Microbes" book. Or any websites?

I don't want to link to any specific site......

try searching: High Brix Gardening

I bought gypsum, bone and blood meal, and rock phosphate. Can I scratch the blood and bone meal.?

The bone meal is Ca and P....so no need for that.
The Blood is N and Fe.....maybe use a bit of it in veg.

But the bottom line is I really don't know! Mineralizing the soil is bound to help, but you're supposed to do a weak acid soil test and follow the recommendations.

I do have recipe for using a single bag of soil......from one of the websites available on search.....

I use a cement mixer to mix up my potting soil ingredients. A wheelbarrow would work also. The potting soil with our added ingredients make a system that supports the growth of high quality plants.

"THE RECIPE" for 2 square feet (the surface area of one tub).
1/2 cup of Planters II Trace Mineral Fertilizer.
1 cup of biosol forte 7-2-1 Organic Fertilizer.
1 cup of mixed ingredients from the Calcium Kit (lime, soft rock phosphate, gypsum).
2 cubic feet of potting soil without fertilizer added (Nursery Mix, or Compost).
1-2 gallon pails of perlite for subsequent years growing medium. Perlite is not used the first year. It is used after the first year to loosen up the growing medium.

Note: the growing medium can be a variety of different products. Potting soil, Nursery Mix, Compost, etc. The main thing is do not use a growing medium to which chemical fertilizers have been added. This system releases a lot of energy and will cause all the chemical fertilizers to be released at the same time and that can burn your plants.

Apply the fertilizer ingredients (Planters II, Biosol Forte 7-2-1, Calcium kit mix) to the top of the growing medium and mix into that growing medium with your fingers.

Please note the high levels of N.....N leeches out of the soil easily.
Also, note the "low" levels of P and K. The soil is loaded with P already, and the small amount of K becomes massively available to the plant when this much energy is built into the soil.

Calcium is king with this method. The foliar feeding program is queen.

Substitute Zeolite or small red lava rock for perlite.

 

[nugslinger420]

Final pics of the Lemon Thai.
The large plant is going to yield between 5 and 6 oz......but I'd say 4 oz. of ultra premium with bag appeal. The remainder will still be really good, but looser, smaller flowers. Still frosted up so much they look fake.

Like a boss! I'm excited to see what this high brix is all about, from the quote you posted earlier it sounds very exciting. Looking at your grow makes me regret trying coco, but its too late to turn back now! Good luck with your future grows I will definitely be following them.

 

[onegramperwat]

super soil:
Vermicrop=base
dolemite lime + gypsium+ rock phosphate = Calcium
granular azomite = micro nutes
plant success granular = mycos
EWC = nitrogen
guano(low N)= phosphurus
Humisoil= micro beneficial and humic acids

anything else Doc?
Perlite?

 

[Doc Bud]

super soil:
Vermicrop=base
dolemite lime + gypsium+ rock phosphate = Calcium
granular azomite = micro nutes
plant success granular = mycos
EWC = nitrogen
guano(low N)= phosphurus
Humisoil= micro beneficial and humic acids

anything else Doc?
Perlite?

You do understand that I haven't done this yet....right?

Mix the EWC into the base soil, along with the zeolite or perlite or volcanic rock....your choice.

The ratio of the rock powders is thus:
(Lime) 3 Lbs 9oz (6 cups)
(soft rock phosphate) 2 Lbs 9 oz (5cups)
(Gypsum) 1Lb 7oz (3 cups)

Mix 1 cup of the combined products (Lime, Soft Rock Phosphate, Gypsum) into each square foot of soil to a depth of six inches.

azomite: mix ½ cup into each square foot of soil to a depth of 6 inches.

Mix in your humus product and the beneficials as well.
You might put in a pinch of Iron Sulfate. (moss magic at Home Depot)
Lastly, mix in a nice general organic fertilizer....but not too much. Cottonseed meal is a good one here, alfalfa meal might also be good.

Make sure to line each hole for transplants with the mycorrhizal innoculant.

Water the whole thing down with a microbial tea....yucca extract is also very helpful when using the tea, I'm told.

Let it sit for 2 weeks minimum before planting.

Next, you want to get a foliar feed product called BrixBlaster or Amaze.

Once a week water with microbial tea, yucca. Fertilize as needed....you could use a balanced guano product, Fox Farms Big Bloom or other product like that. Maybe a bit of kelp from time to time, but take it easy!!! This system is supposed to supercharge nutes.

Once a week give the plants a thorough foliar feed with Brixblaster or Amaze.

That's it!

The soil, EWC and mild fertilizer is probably enough to see the plant through if you're using a larger pot. If not, you may have to feed once or twice, and might need to do a mild recharge of the rock powders....just watch the plants and decide.

This concept isn't about NPK.....it's a completely different idea. Calcium is the main thing here, also phosphates.

Ca ions are positively charged while phosphorus is negatively charged. These two ions when first put in the soil form a battery. The electrical charge can be measured! What this does is optimize the cation exchange rate of the soil.

Eventually, the positive and negative ions all meet eachother and balance out forming a substance that the plant can't use......but that microbes LOVE! As they go to work on the Cal/phos they basically recharge the battery and feed the plant like crazy. As long as the microbes are healthy, there is an abundant supply of Ca and phosphorus in the right ratio......the plant can feed like crazy.

The other minerals are also needed for various enzyme pathways, etc.

The NPK is not nearly as important.....as long as there's NPK in the soil, the bugs will find it, package it, season it, and deliver it to the plant like never before. You especially need to be careful with kelp and compost, as both are very high in potassium, which will mess up the cation exchange.

So......go real easy on the organic fertilizers.....this method is different from the supersoil! I'm going to try it with the supersoil.....but I suspect I'll get better results with a soil that is much less hot.

From what I've learned so far......the key is the rock powder and trace minerals. If plants will grow in the soil to begin with, the rock/trace will turn the battery on.

All we need to do is keep the microbes robust and happy.....just feed 'em a bit each week and add new recruits. Here's where your worm teas come in and perhaps a bit of organic matter from time to time.

Also, the yucca and foliar feeds.

I know this will work.....but I don't know the ratios for specific soils just yet. Stay tuned.

 

[onegramperwat]

You do understand that I haven't done this yet....right?

Mix the EWC into the base soil, along with the zeolite or perlite or volcanic rock....your choice.

The ratio of the rock powders is thus:
(Lime) 3 Lbs 9oz (6 cups)
(soft rock phosphate) 2 Lbs 9 oz (5cups)
(Gypsum) 1Lb 7oz (3 cups)

Mix 1 cup of the combined products (Lime, Soft Rock Phosphate, Gypsum) into each square foot of soil to a depth of six inches.

azomite: mix ½ cup into each square foot of soil to a depth of 6 inches.

Mix in your humus product and the beneficials as well.
You might put in a pinch of Iron Sulfate. (moss magic at Home Depot)
Lastly, mix in a nice general organic fertilizer....but not too much. Cottonseed meal is a good one here, alfalfa meal might also be good.

Make sure to line each hole for transplants with the mycorrhizal innoculant.

Water the whole thing down with a microbial tea....yucca extract is also very helpful when using the tea, I'm told.

Let it sit for 2 weeks minimum before planting.

Next, you want to get a foliar feed product called BrixBlaster or Amaze.

Once a week water with microbial tea, yucca. Fertilize as needed....you could use a balanced guano product, Fox Farms Big Bloom or other product like that. Maybe a bit of kelp from time to time, but take it easy!!! This system is supposed to supercharge nutes.

Once a week give the plants a thorough foliar feed with Brixblaster or Amaze.

That's it!

The soil, EWC and mild fertilizer is probably enough to see the plant through if you're using a larger pot. If not, you may have to feed once or twice, and might need to do a mild recharge of the rock powders....just watch the plants and decide.

This concept isn't about NPK.....it's a completely different idea. Calcium is the main thing here, also phosphates.

Ca ions are positively charged while phosphorus is negatively charged. These two ions when first put in the soil form a battery. The electrical charge can be measured! What this does is optimize the cation exchange rate of the soil.

Eventually, the positive and negative ions all meet eachother and balance out forming a substance that the plant can't use......but that microbes LOVE! As they go to work on the Cal/phos they basically recharge the battery and feed the plant like crazy. As long as the microbes are healthy, there is an abundant supply of Ca and phosphorus in the right ratio......the plant can feed like crazy.

The other minerals are also needed for various enzyme pathways, etc.

The NPK is not nearly as important.....as long as there's NPK in the soil, the bugs will find it, package it, season it, and deliver it to the plant like never before. You especially need to be careful with kelp and compost, as both are very high in potassium, which will mess up the cation exchange.

So......go real easy on the organic fertilizers.....this method is different from the supersoil! I'm going to try it with the supersoil.....but I suspect I'll get better results with a soil that is much less hot.

From what I've learned so far......the key is the rock powder and trace minerals. If plants will grow in the soil to begin with, the rock/trace will turn the battery on.

All we need to do is keep the microbes robust and happy.....just feed 'em a bit each week and add new recruits. Here's where your worm teas come in and perhaps a bit of organic matter from time to time.

Also, the yucca and foliar feeds.

I know this will work.....but I don't know the ratios for specific soils just yet. Stay tuned.

Im going for it! going to get remainder of items tomorrow. I hope the 5 gallon containers are large enough. Keep it charged is goal, I think im going to douse it with teas every watering. Maybe kelp meal and guanos. The granular azomite can be added later as a drentch. The micronute drentch seems to be necessary.

 

[Doc Bud]

Im going for it! going to get remainder of items tomorrow. I hope the 5 gallon containers are large enough. Keep it charged is goal, I think im going to douse it with teas every watering. Maybe kelp meal and guanos. The granular azomite can be added later as a drentch. The micronute drentch seems to be necessary.

Yep. Just keep the guano and kelp to a minimum.....not too much of either.

I predict mad success.

 

[onegramperwat]

Yep. Just keep the guano and kelp to a minimum.....not too much of either.

I predict mad success.

Im off to the hydro store.

Thanks Doc.

 

[onegramperwat]

Doc need a little expertise before mixing.

Just want to check my math for the Ca mix.

The ratio of the rock powders is thus:
(Lime) 3 Lbs 9oz (6 cups)
(soft rock phosphate) 2 Lbs 9 oz (5cups)
(Gypsum) 1Lb 7oz (3 cups)

This mixture is a total of 14 cups. my bag of vermicrop soil is 1.5 cuft. 1 cup goes into .5cuft. Therefore 3 cups of mixture per bag? im doing 2 bags for a total of 6cups. Can i cut in half to make 7 cups?

 

[Doc Bud]

Doc need a little expertise before mixing.

Just want to check my math for the Ca mix.

The ratio of the rock powders is thus:
(Lime) 3 Lbs 9oz (6 cups)
(soft rock phosphate) 2 Lbs 9 oz (5cups)
(Gypsum) 1Lb 7oz (3 cups)

This mixture is a total of 14 cups. my bag of vermicrop soil is 1.5 cuft. 1 cup goes into .5cuft. Therefore 3 cups of mixture per bag? im doing 2 bags for a total of 6cups. Can i cut in half to make 7 cups?

your math is lookin good until, "Can I cut in half to make 7 cups?" I don't quite follow here.....

If I were you, I'd use 1 cup per 12" square of soil.....about 5 gallons worth. If you're using 3 gallon pots, maybe use 3/4 cup per pot. Add it in after you pot up the soil if you want.

But I posted a recipe per bag a few pages back.......

also, use the weight to get the ratio right!! Some product is pelletized so it weighs less by volume....use a scale.


I went ahead and pulled the trigger....just got done mixing up my rock powders and scratching them into the tops of the OG and other plants.....watered with worm tea. Here goes......

 

[Dee House]

Nice thread doc , great info , awesome buds , + rep

 

[onegramperwat]

your math is lookin good until, "Can I cut in half to make 7 cups?" I don't quite follow here.....

If I were you, I'd use 1 cup per 12" square of soil.....about 5 gallons worth. If you're using 3 gallon pots, maybe use 3/4 cup per pot. Add it in after you pot up the soil if you want.

But I posted a recipe per bag a few pages back.......

also, use the weight to get the ratio right!! Some product is pelletized so it weighs less by volume....use a scale.


I went ahead and pulled the trigger....just got done mixing up my rock powders and scratching them into the tops of the OG and other plants.....watered with worm tea. Here goes......

Thanks Doc, so if i make 20 gallons of super soil, thats 4 cups of Ca mix. I understand now. I hope!

Im going to use 5 gallon smart pots. I scratched in some azomite for first time in my blueberrys. Theyre still standing.

Thanks again Doc

High Brix Student

 

[onegramperwat]

so everything is in except the Ca mix. Ill do that tomorrow right before the tea is done. Let sit 30 days and the experiment begins.

 

[Doc Bud]

so everything is in except the Ca mix. Ill do that tomorrow right before the tea is done. Let sit 30 days and the experiment begins.

Yep! I got a good feeling about this.....