Doc Bud's Lemon Paki Pheno Hunt!

medmanmike

Well-Known Member
After a nearly three month break and a deep, deep clean of the grow room, it’s time to fire up the lights and get back at it!

As the title states, this grow will primarily be a hunt for the perfect pheno of the Lemon Paki cut that Doc Bud acquired many years ago. The genetics remain unknown, but it has become a favorite of all who have tried it over the years.

When Doc moved to Uruguay he obviously wasn’t able to take the LP with him as it was “clone only”. As a way of thanking him for his encouragement and support on how to grow cannabis over the years, and for sharing the LP (flower and cuttings), I had the thought of trying to reverse the clone-only cut and presenting him with seeds to continue the strain in the So. Hemisphere. With his approval and a little Colloidal Silver, I was able to reverse a plant into a beautiful male specimen. He/she was a stud (see below) and produced hundreds of seeds. Doc was able to get the seeds to Uruguay and has grown a couple with plans to do a larger grow this fall (his spring) and will journal the grow.


The larger the number of plants run, the better the hunt for the perfect plant. However, given my grow space, along with the monitoring, documenting, juggling of cuttings/clones, etc. I’ll limit the number of plants to 12 or so. I will soak/germinate double the seeds needed to look for ones that germinate quickly have the longest/strongest tails, etc. and plant those in 1-gallon pots. The goal is to identify 3 or 4 finalists from which I will select a couple to reverse and make new S2 seeds.

First, some background:
  • Grow Room size - 10’ x 12’. Lighted footprint is 4’ x 8.5’ (34sq ft).
  • Lights: Fluence Spydr X Plus, 4’x4’ coverage, 685W, PPF 1535: ACInfinity T24, 2’x4’, 260W, PPFD 1728: DormGrow 450, 3’x4’, 270W, PPFD approx. 1,000.
  • Room is sealed with supplemental CO2
  • Soil: Doc Bud’s High Brix soil mix - Pro-mix HP, Organic Earth Work Castings, Doc’s Minerals amendment (ground rocks)
  • Nutrients: Doc Bud’s High Brix Blend
  • Seeds will be in 1st run soil. Upcanning/flowering in 2nd run soil.
Yesterday, I soaked 24 seeds and will pick the strongest 12 or so to grow out. This will be my first hunt so I’m open for suggestions, etc. I’ll be sharing my methods and the characteristics I’m looking for, etc. as the grow proceeds.

I hope you’ll follow along!
 
August 7, 2023 Update:

24 Lemon Paki S1 seeds soaked in a 0.5% H2O2 solution for 4 hours to sterilize any surface pathogens. Seeds were then rinsed thoroughly with distilled water and put in fresh distilled water for an overnight soak.


This morning, 21 of 24 (88% initial germination rate) seeds were showing tails. I chose 13 seeds with the longest and thickest tails and planted them in 1G pots with Doc Bud's 1st run soil. The remaining seeds were placed in damp paper towels to observe further development and to see if the three that hadn't split would.

The Spydr X was turned on, dimmed to 10%. Temp set at 80ºF and humidity at 65%.

The wait begins!
 
A few of us have had some good early success sexing seedlings by keeping them in 12/12 light for the first 10 days above ground and then reverting to your normal veg lighting, 18/6 or whatever. Sex usually shows +/- 30 days.
 
A few of us have had some good early success sexing seedlings by keeping them in 12/12 light for the first 10 days above ground and then reverting to your normal veg lighting, 18/6 or whatever. Sex usually shows +/- 30 days.
Interesting. Haven't heard of this one. If you're suggesting this as an option for my pheno hunt, keep in mind these are S1s, so the likelihood of any males is something like 0.01%. I'd be happy to get a male, but.... ;)
 
August 10, 2023 update

Well, the last 3 (of 24) seeds had nice long tails Tuesday morning. 100% germ rate!


And, plant #13 (out of view) was up above ground - 24 hours from planting! Yesterday, Wed. all 12 remaining were up.


A lot of shells are still attached, but cotyledons are showing and pushing out from under the shells. Hopefully I won't have to do any surgery! Lights went to 20% today and once everyone is showing green I'll increase it daily. Now the fun begins!
 
Interesting. Haven't heard of this one. If you're suggesting this as an option for my pheno hunt, keep in mind these are S1s, so the likelihood of any males is something like 0.01%. I'd be happy to get a male, but.... ;)
I was, but am pretty ignorant about S1's or F1's or 2's etc.

The light schedule idea comes from The Rev and his TLO grows.

Good thing to have in the back pocket if nothing else.
 
August 16, 2023 Update

Not much going on. Plants are doing well, some just starting to show third set of leaves. You'll notice some are a little lanky which required a wooden skewer to prop them up. These were the first above ground, and weren't getting enough light. Let me explain.


I've always used ratcheted light hangers, until a couple of grows ago (still do on the smaller lights). The Spydrx is 44" x 43" and weights 23lbs. Fluence recommends keeping the light at 6-12" above the canopy. I got tired of lowering and raising the light, especially when spraying foliers, so I now put it as high as I can get it and raise the pots to it. Using cement blocks, blocks of wood, etc. I can keep the canopies even, with different strains, growth patterns,etc.

My grow room is in the basement with standard ceiling height of 7 ½' give or take. You'll see in the next photo that I have a duct running through the grow room. The light hangers along with fluency's' hanger design limit how high the fixture can go. The duct likewise. My room exhaust fan/filter prevents me from putting the light at the opposite end of the room as it takes up space as the duct does. So, to recover some of the headspace that was limited by the light hangers, I've used large nylon zip ties and fixed the light as high as I can get it so the light bars are just a couple of inches below the duct. (I keep the light hangers on the eye bolts just in case....removed for the photo)

The mistake I made was keeping the dimming percentage too low when the seeds first broke ground so they weren't getting enough light. I've increased the intensity rapidly and the light is now at 100% and the seedlings have responded positively.

In addition to the Lemon Pakis, I've added some other test strains. These were planted this week so they're just starting to come up. You can see the Dark Sage in the top right corner of the first pic just showing itself. The additional strains are:

Black Afghani - Landrace Indica from Kandahar
Dark Sage - Ed Rosenthal's creation of Dark Star/S.A.G.E.
Godfather OG - Alpha OG x OG Kush
Malana - Pure Highland Sativa Charas from India

The LPs will drive decisions, ie switching to flower, light schedule etc. The new strains will follow suit as these are testers and I'm not looking for yield, etc.
 
Day 21 from seed update

Overall plants are doing well. They've received their first Brix and a double drench of Transplant on day 21. All pics were taken on day 21 from seed.

I'm beginning to see differences in plant structure, node space, coloring, etc. Most are fat leafed and bushy, with a couple taller with a more open structure. A couple of plants have a definite tint of yellow (yellow-green?) in the leaves, and also have some spots on their leaves which are odd. The spots are like whitish bumps and only show on the top of the leaves. There's no signs of insects. One plant is 'weak' and still requires a skewer to keep it upright. If it doesn't turn around soon, it's a goner. Any thoughts to the yellowing/spots would be appreciated.

First pics are an overview of the garden.



Next are examples of the two main plant structures. Pictures don't do justice to the taller/open structure plants, but hopefully you'll get the idea.



And here is an example of the plants showing "yellowing"/spots.

 
Day 34 from seed update:

Pics shown were taken on Sep 13 & 14 (Day 34 & 35 f/seed) just prior to transplanting. I took cuttings (Sep 12), rearranged my platforms, added an additional light and reset all timers/controllers, etc. prior to moving to flower (Sep 17), so I'm behind a bit.

Plants are nearly bone dry in the pic, hence the droopiness. As I suspected plants were root-bound which I believe contributed to leaf yellowing, brown spots, etc. Now that they're in larger pots they're growing strong with good leaf structure and color.

I'm using the following criteria through the veg and early flower stage to identify "keepers". I found the basis for this on the internet and modified it so the scoring was more objective rather than subjective.

Germination/Seedling/Vegging Scale
Seed Germ.
1 (less than 24 hr), 2 (24-48 hr), 3 (more than 48 hr)
Seeds up. 1-< 24 hrs, 2- 24-48 hrs, 3-> 48 hrs, 4-did not show
Plant Structure 1- Bushy , 2-Squat, 3-Small, 4-Avg, 5-Tall
Internodal Dist. 1- Ex.Tight, 2-Very Tight, 3-Avg, 4-Mod. Spacing, 5-Very Wide
Hardiness: Temp., Transplanting, Disease, Nutes, Strength 1-Ext. Well, 2-Very Wel, 3-Avg 4-Weak, 5-Major Issues
Handling Response: Topping, Pruning, LST 1-Ext. Well, 2-Very Well, 3-Avg, 4-Weak, 5-Major Issues

I'll use a similar scale once flowering starts, progresses and finishes, etc. ie, number of buds, size/shape, yield, smoke report, etc.

Using the Germ/Veg scale I've identified five plants that I'm keeping my eye on and have taken cuttings (pic below). I'll be taken cuttings of the remaining LPs just in case one or more rises to the top. Once they finish flowering I'll identify the phenos I'll use to reverse a female and produce some S2s.




 
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