Big Sparks
Well-Known Member
There's something called Safers Soap that ive heard others use, and ive used it myself, although i used it as more of a "just in case" option.
First Time Grow, 2'x'2 Tent,135W LED, Please Help Me Along The Way
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Just be careful to read the ingredients, as some of them contain some plant oils as well. Garlic, rosemary, and peppermint are included in a lot of natural bug sprays. I think Safers Soap doesn't have oils in it as I recall.
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Gresus42069
420 Member
Unfortunately I don't have access to Safer Soap, so I've had to improvise. I did some research and found a Pyrethrum & Piperonyl Butoxide spray that I thought may work. Now that I'm looking at it again though I can't remember the reason I chose the particular spray and I'm starting to question my choice! Do you guys think this will be safe to use?
Tonight's update is also not the greatest... She's still losing leaves and getting yellower. I gave her a big watering with the veg nutrients that she was really enjoying and added a little bit of Calcium and Magnesium. I'm hoping this will solve what looks to be a major nitrogen deficiency. I won't be using the spray yet, as I want her to hopefully recover first. I'll wait a couple of days and see how she goes.
At least the buds are looking pretty good. The white pistils are starting to turn brown and I'm even starting to see some trichomes appearing
nobodyhere
Well-Known Member
Those leaves look 'haze' ish to me. They can be particular plants of the two I have grown. How are your temps and how are you checking ph (excuse if this is pages back)? Ph pens need weekly calibration and that is what is usually wrong with 99% of first time growers.
I had a haze that would droop bad every time it was watered, liked to be on the drier side, heavier on the nutes first 5 weeks. But when your doing bagseed you just kinda have to guess.
Some of the lowers will crap from lack of light. I remove them when fully yellow and their ready to drop.
@InTheShed knows more about otc insect stuff.
I had a haze that would droop bad every time it was watered, liked to be on the drier side, heavier on the nutes first 5 weeks. But when your doing bagseed you just kinda have to guess.
Some of the lowers will crap from lack of light. I remove them when fully yellow and their ready to drop.
@InTheShed knows more about otc insect stuff.
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Gresus42069
420 Member
Wow! I looked up some photos of haze and this was one of the first photos that I found compared to mine.
Mine:
Haze:
They do look pretty similar!
My temps are the only thing that I'm not happy about with my environment. Lights on they can sit around 30-32c (86-89F) and with lights off they are usually 27c (80f). There's nothing I can do about this but the weather is starting to cool down now and it should start getting much cooler over the next 6 months.
For PH I'm using drops to test. I know this is super inaccurate and I will be buying a PH pen sometime this week.
I think I may have also just had an idea as to what's going on... Do you think this could be the result of underwatering?!? I've been feeding her the same amount every 3/4 days (usually 4 litres) since veg and haven't changed this. She will probably be a lot thirstier now as well, using up that water much quicker... leading to a lack of nutrients... I fed her a bit more than usual last night, so hopefully she bounces back.
nobodyhere
Well-Known Member
few things-
if there the general hydro drops, and providing you can do this test and see results accurately, not using really thick or dark nutes, then drops are more accurate than a ph pen any day-especially cheap ones.
I did not know your temps and there was some leaf droop, I usually don't comment on that bc some plants do that after watering, and that happens to be when the camera is out.
I use co2, so I run hot temps, a moderate size plant in a smart 2 will take a liter+ a day (at those temps). in a smart 5 double or triple that.
get on a watering drying cycle. bi-daily w those temps
if there the general hydro drops, and providing you can do this test and see results accurately, not using really thick or dark nutes, then drops are more accurate than a ph pen any day-especially cheap ones.
I did not know your temps and there was some leaf droop, I usually don't comment on that bc some plants do that after watering, and that happens to be when the camera is out.
I use co2, so I run hot temps, a moderate size plant in a smart 2 will take a liter+ a day (at those temps). in a smart 5 double or triple that.
get on a watering drying cycle. bi-daily w those temps
Pyrethrins are a banned chemical on cannabis in many canna-legal states. I'm using spinosad (doesn't work on mites I've been reading), iso/water mix, and just tried non-detergent dish soap today for my thrips. It was Dr Bronner's unscented Castille soap mixed 2 tbs/gal.
I'm not seeing anything that looks like a N deficiency, but there should be enough N in flower nutes. Most cal-mag contains N as well.
nobodyhere
Well-Known Member
also, mo water = bigger buds. Just don't go overboard and not ph and get a locked out waterlogged plant....that is not a fun place to be.
Big Sparks
Well-Known Member
Wow! I looked up some photos of haze and this was one of the first photos that I found compared to mine.
Mine:
They do look pretty similar!
My temps are the only thing that I'm not happy about with my environment. Lights on they can sit around 30-32c (86-89F) and with lights off they are usually 27c (80f). There's nothing I can do about this but the weather is starting to cool down now and it should start getting much cooler over the next 6 months.
For PH I'm using drops to test. I know this is super inaccurate and I will be buying a PH pen sometime this week.
I think I may have also just had an idea as to what's going on... Do you think this could be the result of underwatering?!? I've been feeding her the same amount every 3/4 days (usually 4 litres) since veg and haven't changed this. She will probably be a lot thirstier now as well, using up that water much quicker... leading to a lack of nutrients... I fed her a bit more than usual last night, so hopefully she bounces back.
*tips hat*
Evening all. I would give enough water to at least let some come out of the bottom holes. I have dishes underneath to catch run off. Sometimes if i go a little too long between waterings (almost always) then sometimes the soil would make the water run off and straight to the dish if, so i would let them sit for awhile and let them soak up the run off for a while. If they didn't soak up what was in there within an hour or so, then i dump excess, and replace. If they drink the water/feed right away, then give some more til you get enough run off to let them sit for a little bit to get a good drink. I also wouldn't worry about feeding at every chance unless you're running straight coco, peat, perlite, or any combination of soiless mediums. Maybe only every other watering, and only at about a quarter to third strength of recommended dosage on the bottles you're using. Sometimes less really is more. Beautiful work so far!
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Gresus42069
420 Member
Ahhh if that's the case then I'd rather avoid using it! I'll do some more research into the stuff you're using and probably do the same! Not sure if I'll be able to get spinosad though.
Thanks for your helps guys.
The watering seems to have made her a bit less droopy but still more yellow appearing. It looks like it's only happening on the big fan leaves that aren't really close to any bud sites and all the leaves between buds are still nice and green.
Her buds still look like they're getting fatter as well, so I'm not sure if I should be too worried. I'll just keep feeding her like usual and hope for the best.
Barney86
Well-Known Member
Why they banned? Synthetic pyrethroids are non systemic in soil. Wouldnt advise using them in hydro, or using them at all once buds are up but yeah. Im a pest controller and according to UK guidelines, correct doses are perfectly safe for agriculture. They obviously weren't considering weed when they wrote the book but surely it behaves like every other plant on earth? I work in the city so not something I've ever needed to know about really.
I doubt anyone in the UK is smoking their agriculture! Big difference between what gets burned and inhaled and what goes on our fruits and veggies.
Barney86
Well-Known Member
Haha you do realise the UK is, and has always been the world's biggest supplier of medicinal weed don't you? We been at the research 10 years longer than you guys lol maybe 15. Just not legal for us peasants to grow.
"non systemic" means it's not absorbed by the plant so it shouldn't make any odds as long as it goes in the soil and not sprayed on the plant.
"non systemic" means it's not absorbed by the plant so it shouldn't make any odds as long as it goes in the soil and not sprayed on the plant.
nobodyhere
Well-Known Member
Soak a cone in it, then smoke it. Heat changes chemicals. I rub synthetic pyrethroids all over myself just about daily-their very very safe. Most of that stuff is inactivated by about 10 minutes in our sun here. (our research extension does studies of UV/heat effectiveness of pyrethroids every few years.
I don't imagine it would offer any more protection on a plant under our lights.
There is a synthetic with freaking excellent UV resistance in a specific formulation over here....but it's expensive and generally sold in drums.
I would use in veg no problemo.
The single most effective measure of pest control I have for my hooch tent is 10000+ppm of co2 for 90 minutes once every couple weeks if I don't see anything, or every 2-3 days if I start seeing something that snuck in on the soil.
I've worked in ag and farming for about 45 years. Breed horses. Have about 250 head at graze and am a partner in a start up berry farm that I am helping oversee that is about 1200 acres.
So yea, shed and I understand what non-systemic means. How do you protect bud sites and trim from application?
FYI there are plenty of non-systemic 'cides that express list no application during fruiting times. USDA tests for that shit here.
My experience comes from using it in ag, not commercially and that is very very very different. And I do have a license.
Barney86
Well-Known Member
I did say I wouldn't advise to use it during bloom and also said it should according to what I know, be safe to apply to the soil. Most are highly residual so of course should not be sprayed onto the plant. Was just curious as to why you guys have banned it but UK says it's safe. Wasn't being agro, just asking a genuine question out of curiosity mate.
You guys banned kinder eggs so just cos its banned doesn't mean it's dangerous lol.
nobodyhere
Well-Known Member
Totally understand, and we are just completely helping brainstorm for ideas...thats what we all do here.
We have a ton of stuff that we cant use in ag over here that is common practice in the EU. It's almost funny. There is stuff horse wise over here that will get a youth banned for life, but is commonly used in the EU under the FEI.
I would be fine with an application of something light applied to a paper towel and lightly rubbed on the mains of the plant. But I would not spray anywhere near.
I use a lot of Bayer Suspend at the house. Dunno what the brand name is over there. But it's listen for grain elevators, food storage, hospitals, rest homes, kitchens, etc. I apply when I am not flowering to the room my tent is in when I spray the house. I also apply it to the underside and tent openings. I don't apply suspend to the plant.
Don't really have bug problems and we live in a climate where we get less than 2 weeks below freezing a year.
Gresus is in flower though. I use neem in veg but not in flower. In flower I use either spinosad, iso/water, or soap spray. Only things that come off in the wash.
And since in the US we spray people with Roundup, I can't imagine a western nation that cares less about what goes on our food than here. If state cannabis boards say pyrethrins should not be found on buds, that's good enough for me!
nobodyhere
Well-Known Member
Exactly, it's both how and where and what that's applied. And is the treatment worse than the sickness? I would avoid neem in flower like the plague. I have never really had to use anything other than mosquito bits and I only have an occasional fly or two during season changes.
I honestly think CO2 helps with this.
